Birth of a brand: Emmanuel Bouchet

The very first watch by new brand Emmanuel Bouchet is an exceptional piece, named appropriately Complication 1.


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19 January 2015

Emmanuel Bouchet is familiar above all for Opus 12 by Harry Winston, a very unusual piece in which the passage of time became a theatrical performance. “I am very grateful to Harry Winston,” said Bouchet, “because Opus 12 was a piece that inspired me to launch my own brand.” This year he presents Complication One, an equally theatrical piece contained in a large curving block of sapphire, shaped in a long and complex 16-stage process.

The time display is very different from normal watches, with hours on a subdial at 8 o’clock, minutes and ten-minutes shown on a subdial at 4 o’clock with two hands, and a day-night indicator at 12 o’clock. The movement has two barrels, one powering the going train to the escape wheel, and one the transmission escapement. The escapement can be viewed between the two subdials, snapping forward every fifteen seconds, constituting a totally new constant-force mechanism. The sapphire crystal watchglass encapsulates all this in a multi-level  structure enhanced by the white or black onyx dial base.

We asked Emmanuel Bouchet about the effect of the recent development in the Swiss economy that caused an unexpected rise in the strength of the Swiss franc. “We are lucky because we are independent. Of course it will have an impact on price and distribution. We used to quote prices in different currencies according to the market. From now on, we will quote uniquely in Swiss francs, and issue invoices in Swiss francs.”

This was a rare opportunity to see the very first watch by a new brand built on a heritage of experience. Of course, this will be followed by others: Complication Two and Complication Three are already in the pipeline. Read more at