Bulgari - the Octo

This octagonal watch is powered by an in-house movement


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12 October 2012

The Octo by Bulgari is an interesting essay in octagonal watch geometry. It is part of the Gérald Genta heritage acquired by Bulgari in late 2009 (along with Daniel Roth), and so this watch has an in-house movement, the Calibre BVL 193, with hours, minutes, seconds and a date window at 3 o'clock. It is automatically wound, and the two barrels provide a 50-hour power reserve. The movement is well finished, with bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève.

It is set in a case with Genta's characteristic multiple facets that provide a sense of depth, visual interest and solidity. The octagonal bezel morphs step by machined step into the lugs that hold the alligator strap. The Octo is made in two versions, in steel or pink gold, and the dial transmits a sense of no-nonsense toughness, with its large baton hour markers beautifully cut and finished.

The Bulgari approach to watches in a way mirrors that adopted by Montblanc: the acquisition of existing specialist companies so that they have direct access to movement design and production.

The steel Octo retails at about €7,300, while the pink gold version costs about €21,800.

In the photos below, stages in making the watches. Below, bezel polishing:

Below, case assembly:

Case milling:

Case milling:

Index fitting:

Movement assembly:

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