New Departures Featured

Fine watchmaking manufacturers combine tradition and technology to create a new collection of sophisticated watches for gentlemen

by 31 August 2010

The watch-making experts of grand complications are constantly breaking new ground in precision wrist-worn micromechanics. These splendid timepieces combine state-of-the-art technology with meticulous attention to detail and high quality manufacturing. Luxos explores these iconic objects of desire.

Savoir-faire and sportiness
The new model presented by Cartier at the recent Salon International de Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, the Calibre de Cartier redefines the traditional spirit of the round watch. Equipped with the new Cartier-manufactured movement 1904 MC, with 28,800 vibrations per hour, double barrel, and 48 hours of power reserve, the timepiece also offers the stop-seconds function (which allows the time to be set perfectly), and a bi-directional full-size rotor ensuring an excellent winding system.

Cartier favourites
Cartier boutiques

Bewitched by the Moon
The moon phase indicator is surely among the most poetic complications that fine watch makers have ever placed on a dial. The mechanical movement of the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire by Jaeger-LeCoultre has two main functions: one on the right with the hours and minutes, and the other on the left with a celestial map, the moon phase, age of the moon, and the calendar; the Foudrayante seconds hand (at 6 o’clock) is between two openings that reveal some of the components. The model is available in a limited edition of 300 pieces in yellow gold, while the production of the pink gold version is unlimited.

Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques

Ultra-thin Luxury
Piaget celebrates the 50th anniversary of its ultra-thin Altiplano Automatic (in 1960 it was the flattest automatic calibre in the world) with a Calibre 1208P: the thinnest automatic movement currently available on the market. Altiplano Automatic is equipped with a 22k gold micro rotor, and a 43 mm diameter case (in white or yellow gold) only 5.25 mm thick. The dial is linear and easy to read, in perfect Piaget style, and it includes a sub-dial.

Piaget favourites
Piaget boutiques

Wonderful Complications
The Patrimony Traditionnelle Calibre 2253 by Vacheron Constantin contains one of the most fascinating complications: the equation of time. The chronograph can indicate the difference in minutes between the variable progress of solar time and the normal conventional time shown by all watches. Only 10 numbered pieces have been created, in a 43 mm platinum case with the famous Maltese cross emblem. The dark blue alligator skin band is hand-stitched.

Vacheron Constantin boutiques

Elegance and Character
The Baume et Mercier Classima Executives XL 8870 makes a modern dynamic statement, while maintaining the sober and refined character of a classic round watch. The timepiece is equipped with a mechanical self-winding movement, a complete calendar (central date hand in red 18k gold for day and month, with a window at the 12 o’clock position, moon phase at 6 o’clock), and a 24-hour clock indicator at the 9 o’clock position. The silver-coloured dial with a guilloché “grain d’orge” décor, is enriched by blue-tinged circular and sun satin-finished counters, while the open case-back reveals the oscillating weight with “Cotes de Genève” décor.

Absolute Precision
A mechanical movement indicating the day of the week, day, month, and moon phase is behind the pleasantly clean dial of the Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar. Its distinctive feature is that it needs to be reset only once per year to ensure maximum precision. Within the case is a Sax-o-mat movement with zero reset function, which stops the movement when the crown is pulled out and resets the seconds hand to zero. This enables the watch to be reset with greater accuracy.

A. Lange & Söhne boutiques

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