Breguet - Héritage Phases de Lune Rétrograde wins a 'Watch of the Year' prize


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05 November 2012

 In Geneva on 26 October 2012, Breguet received three prizes from a total of six at the 'Watch of the Year' competition promoted by Swiss magazine Montres Passion.

The Héritage Phases de Lune Rétrograde (ref. 8860) was praised particularly for its unusual dial design. The tonneau case encloses a circular mother-of-pearl dial with beautifully-machined waves, and at the base the Breguet serial number that is one of the brand's characteristic features. The circular relief profile surrounding this circular dial is marked with dots and diamonds to indicate minutes and hours. The hands are the classic Breguet hands in blued steel. Outside, the space is filled with Roman numerals, with the moon phase indicator between noon and 1 o'clock. The moon is gilt, on a blue night sky backdrop, with a winking eye, an interesting touch.

The case is typically feminine, 35 x 25 millimetres, and the case side is fluted. The way the leather strap is united to the case is beautiful, with no visible lugs. The woven strap is very beautiful, an ideal contrast with the rose gold case.

The self-winding movement is has a platinum, engine turned rotor, but strangely there is no sapphire caseback and so this cannot be seen. The Calibre 586L operates at 21,600 vph (3 Hz), with a 40-hour power reserve. Price about €22,500.

Breguet Tradition GMT

The other watch to receive an award was the Tradition GMT (ref. 7067). The Tradition was introduced in 2005, and the GMT version was presented at Baselworld 2012. It retains its characteristic feature of displaying the movement from the front of the dial, and the second timezone function that has been added is controlled with a button at 10 o'clock. Close to this is a day/night indicator which enable you to see whether it is day or night in the second timezone. Important for people who have to call people on the other side of the world and they're not sure whether they are awake or in bed! The dial is fairly complex to look at but well-balanced, with the anthracite balance wheel oscillating at 21,600 vph (3 Hz) in the 4 o'clock position. Other features of the watch include the Breguet spring with raised terminal curve, inverted inline lever escapement (both in silicon), vertical fluting on the caseband, engine-turned dial, with the Breguet name and serial number on the principal dial. Lugs are welded. The case is in white or pink gold, 40 millimetres in diameter.

The Breguet calibre 507 DRF used in this watch provides a 50-hour power reserve, with a power-reserve indicator visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. Price is about €35,500.

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