With Pitti Immagine Uomo — one of the world’s most prominent platforms for menswear — coming up in June, fashion enthusiasts from around the world are surging to Florence to discover the latest trends. From Givenchy to Sterling Ruby, special guests will be many, just like the fabulous events hosted at Gucci Garden and LuisaViaRoma. Do share insights with us if you are in Florence. For now, we take this time as an opportunity to feature the profile of three of the best fashion creative directors right now.
Alessandro Michele at Gucci
Five days before the Fall 2015 menswear show, Kering CEO Marco Bizzarri named a young Richard Ginori employee creative director of Gucci. Just like that, exit Frida Giannini, enter Alessandro Michele, who was essentially an enigma to the fashion crowd at that moment in time. Five days later, the collection was met with a unanimous consensus — the Gucci era had begun.
While many chose not to take a risk and concealed the fear of being too daring with commercial products, Michele brought back the excess and the extravagance that defined the 1980s and the early 2000s. Without turning his back on old-school Gucci fans, he injected a contemporary sensibility into the brand’s DNA, making the products feel lush and deeply desirable to a new generation.
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Francesco Risso at Marni
In 2016, after Consuelo Castiglioni stepped down from her own maison, Marni, Francesco Risso found himself in a tricky position taking the lead of a fashion house that deeply embodied the idiosyncrasy of his predecessor. Rather than trying to please everyone, Risso shares Michele’s goal for “making fashion fashion again,” creating a vision that ripples through the industry with a flair for story-telling.
“The creative process I share with my team is about creating stories,” he told Vanity Fair. “And from these stories we make clothes.” From candid shots to subcultural references, Risso’s Instagram account, @asliceofbambi, communicates with GenZ while reinforcing his creations with stories that are ironic, poetic and full of humour.
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Jonathan Anderson at Loewe
Before Gucci and Marni in Italy, a similar revolution had been taking place in nearby Spain, in a less riotous manner in line with its protagonist’s subtle ways. In 2013, Jonathan Anderson graced Loewe with the same cultural approach to fashion that he had been refining for his own brand — JW Anderson — by turning what was basically a bag show into an artsy parlour with individuality as the key element.
Enhancing elegant, wearable silhouettes with deliberate research into texture from patchworking quilt to woven and knitted textures, Anderson fully employs the brand’s devotion to craftsmanship, cultivating a modern take on luxury.
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