The weather in Milan has by now gone completely crazy. It is so hot that, as the last day of the kermesse approaches, people are starting to get confused: is it the SS19 womenswear collections presentations that we are seeing or have we skipped directly to the menswear presentations in July? Are we all extremely late for booking our summer holidays? Press and buyers can be seen wondering around the Duomo with a puzzled look on their faces.
Genny's creative director, Sara Cavazza, strongly contributed to the general sense of confusion by presenting some very unexpected work. No sign of the flashy 80es references which dominated her fall/winter collection, for the warm season the inspiration comes directly from the 70es and from the frisky summer days in the French Riviera: think Saint Tropez, think midi dresses and slim cut silhouettes, think wavy patterns, reds and blues. However the eveningwear, despite also referencing the 70es, had a rather different style: sophisticated and elegant with fluid shapes, fluid fabrics like silk and organza and graphic motifs. And yes, we couldn't help but love the daring breasts exposures in a couple of outfits.
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Confusion also took the shape as a delightful surprise, as the Antwerp based designer duo A.F. Vandervost chose Milan to celebrate their anniversary in Milan. Having been both married and the helm of a successful independent fashion brand for 20 years, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx rightfully decided to celebrate. The capsule collection began as a study on the “heritage of wedding dresses,” said An Vandevorst backstage, “the way mothers pass them down to daughters and on and on.” Vintage wedding gowns were mixed with t-shirts, hoodies, pants and cuissards, embellished with bunches of white long stem lilies and wedding rings and presented with the brand’s new line of accessories. This resulted into a selection of unique, one-off garments which perfectly blended romanticism with A. F. Vandervost’s signature cool. Inspiring and poetic: a show that will be remembered.
Exotic and metropolitan. With its large polka dots, hand-painted checks and in printed camouflage, Cividini has captured the attention of those always in search for something new. Particularly interesting the overlapping prints and drawings under the over and eveloping clothes that gave dynamism to the overall elegant and clean SS19 collection.
One word perfectly described the new Moschino collection: Fun. A celebration of creativity and all things pretty, as both the clothes and the bodies of the models turned into white canvas and got covered in monochromatic colouring. Teddy bears, flowers, golden chaned and various shades of pink highlighted the collections and decorated the ultrafeminine garments. Gigi Hadid took the final exit dressed in a very Moschino bridal dress and was fondly greeted by an overly excited crowd.
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Surprisingly enough fashion week is not just about fashion. Or maybe, fashion is not just about clothes. Being “fashionable” has very much to do with personal style, which includes clothes, accessories, make up (or its absence) and fragrance. The Merchant of Venice certainly knows a great deal about personality when perfumes is involved. All the fragrances of this exclusive maison tell stories of far away lands, of long journeys from the fascinating cities of the Orient to the enchantment of Venice, the main destination of the naval trade routes, the mude. Andalusian Soul and Mystic Incense, the latest fragrances from the Merchant of Venice, are inspired respectively by the Muda di Barbaria and by the Muda di Sirya.
As exciting new talents, such as Act N.1 and Marco Rambaldi make their way into the notoriously rigid Milan schedule, bringing a whiff of novelty and high excpetations for the next seasons, and the as the fashion crowd enjoys a last pizza before hitting Charles De Gaulle airport, Milan is ready to close the curtain.
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