Incredibly creative, with painterly floral patterns on shirts, blousons, jackets and even suits. Brendan Mullane, creative director for the brand, continues his work on the combination of art and fashion, with a collaboration between Brioni and Los Angeles artist James Welling, whose signature floral patterns have been transposed to garments that are in silk, or that have a luxuriously silky finish. So many looks in the collection are so contemporary in feel that it is surprising to find that Mullane found inspiration in the brand’s archives. In the 1950s, Brioni won remarkable success in Hollywood, dressing figures of the stature of Richard Burton, Henry Fonda and Cary Grant. At that time the brand was famous for its ‘Columnar look’ with tapered trousers. This has been reinterpreted in this collection, with clean tops or jacket over soft, roomy trousers.
The colour palette includes beetroot red, ocean and Capri blue, palm and mint greens, carnation red, turquoise and light blue. Textiles are all superb, and one in particular is very interesting, a grey tartan check embroidered with a houndstooth weave. It changes according to the angle from which you see it, with the check dominating when seen from the front, and the houndstooth dominant when you look at it from a low incident angle.
Looks tend to be layered, and white undervests are OK for Brioni. All shoes are worn without socks, and sandals are a staple. A casual bomber jacket features a rocker-type Brioni emblem. Coordination includes matching belts and trousers or shorts, and shirt and cardigan.
They are all the garments of dreams, and you can choose from the classic suited look, or more arty pieces that are like Andy Warhol gone natural, American artistic creativity blended with Italian brilliance in textile design.