Everything starts from the ground up, and especially the spring/summer 2015 men’s collection by Jil Sander. The starting-point is the sandals, which are a big thing for many brands this season, worn with everything from casual to suits. The cutaway effect means that feet become more decorative, and Jil Sander uses dark sockets to create geometries on toes, instep and ankles. Above this, trousers are cut high at the ankles and ride high on the waist, reducing the apparent volume of what comes above. The effect is heightened by wide bands of colour, often yellow, on the sides of the trousers, and by the tops themselves, sometimes semi-transparent.
Colours are white, grey, yellow, and pastel violet. The two principal prints include a text-like pattern in which letters are superimposed, so that you imagine that there are words and meaning there but you just can’t make them out.
Bags have a vaguely female tote-like appearance, and the backpacks look very practical. One of the most appealing features is one of the fabrics used for suits and trousers, with a crumpled effect, hopefully non-iron.