Bruno Magli – the fall/winter 2013-14 men's collection

Max Kibardin pens a symphony of leather

The remarkable fall/winter 2013-2014 men’s collection by Max Kibardin for Bruno Magli begins, not surprisingly, from the footwear, superbly-crafted shoes in materials that improve over time and whose hand-working gives them some sophisticated effects, such as the gradual change in colour from toe to heel.

This is made possible because the shoe is tinted after the construction has been completed. The colours of the shoes are often two-tone, with dark navy, dark green and dark bordeaux along with the various shades of tinted leather. In some pieces, the leather is combined with metallization to create a glinting, subtly variable effect. Other prestige materials include Cordovan leather, shell crocodile, and deer.

From the shoes, Kibardin has crafted a capsule collection in leather, a series of coats in which designs are based on archetypal forms, such as 1960s-style jackets, aviator overalls, aviator jackets, trench coats, bomber jackets and biker jackets, in colours including bordeaux, navy blue, moss green, beige, raw siena and grey. But finish is extraordinarily refined, with metallized leather given a saffian finish that has an incredible effect under light. Not only does the material glint and flash, but it seems almost to glow, as if lit from inside.

The ultramarine blue overalls are probably the most extreme garment in the collection, a reference to surreal science-fiction films. According to the style notes, the inspiration includes Tony Scott’s film The Hunger starring David Bowie: while I’m OK with Bowie, I would put it closer to Major Tom and the Man Who Fell to Earth.

Accessories include a superb hand-crafted rigid briefcase in crocodile, meticulously constructed and reinforced, and a large Boston bag. The collection was presented in a classical setting, the frescoed halls of the Grand Hotel et de Milan, which further heightened the out-of-this-world effect of Kibardin’s work.

Read more:
Ports 1961 fall/winter 2013-2013 collection