The mens’ fall/winter 2013-14 collection was presented in the company’s lovely premises on Via Manzoni in Milan, on 13 January 2013, just a few days after the triumphant runway show in Florence.
It’s all about tailorship. Ermanno Scervino used a light hand in sculpting the volumes of this collection, and the colours are equally restrained, based on grey, or rather, on two or three different greys in each look. This tonal contrast highlights the quality of the textiles used for the jackets and coats, with a lot of very soft leather and suede. Highlight colours are khaki, which is used in a lacquered finish for trousers, bordeaux, and blue.
The restraint creates something of an early 1960s mod look, as borrowed by the Beatles at the start of their career. Narrow lapels, straight ties cut horizontally at the bottom, figure-hugging styles. Throughout, there is a wonderful contrast between formal and casual, as in evening jackets worn with knitwear ties, and heavy, chunky knitwear cardigans worn as a jacket over a bordeaux knitwear waistcoat and a knitwear tie. Scervino has given particular importance to knitwear, in part because it is handmade in the brand’s own production units in Florence, using finest-quality yarns (including cashmere) at very high levels of finish. His tribute to his city of origin takes the form of its emblem, the lily, in the form of an embroidered motif on a knitwear top, and on details such as cufflinks.
Another surprising visual highlight include red and white stripes producing a college look in some knitwear.
Some elements are pure luxe, such as the orylag scarves, incomparably soft and fluffy. There is more softness in the leather garments, with double-layer pile linings for extra warmth, and, in the same way, knitwear cardigans with a down padded lining. Scervino continues his incessant exploration of materials with Casentino wool, a sort of felted textile with a slightly rough texture, providing excellent water-resistant characteristics, while also offering a pleasant visual effect.
Shoes are tough and practical. Bags are soft and a tad androgynous.
All absolutely wearable. Scervino’s perfect touch has created a collection that cannot fail to appeal. My personal favourite is the super-chunky cardigan in horizontal bands of black and white herringbone. As the model walks down the catwalk, the material creates a sort of op-art effect, with the black outline at the hems and collar providing a cartoony touch. Brilliant.