Saint Laurent - spring 2013

It's Hedi's time



For his first collection at the helm of the newly rebranded Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane made a punchy debut. This was one of the designers we most anticipated seeing at Paris Fashion Week for many reasons. First, Slimane's seven years at Dior Homme instilled a recognizable aesthetic in the designer, but also, his last few years living in LA and working as a photographer have transformed his artistic tendencies.

In his first collection for Saint Laurent, there were many nods to the classic YSL styles - the smoking jacket, the pussy bows, the mousselines, but also some classically "Slimane" elements such as the provocative styles, and the atmosphere at the show- loud electro music, dark lighting. The edginess of the collection was brought out with the bold use of leather, suggestive silhouettes and sexy heels.

The collection had an almost western-inspired theme in some pieces, like the maxi suede dress that laced up the front, and suede fringe jacket, whereas others were more bohemian and others more rock n roll. The silhouettes were slim, elongated and feminine, with a rock n’ roll flare. Some of the collection’s stand-out pieces were the capes, flowing black silk that added the extra push of drama we expected to see from Slimane.