Missoni has developed some enduring signatures, in particular its multi-coloured printed yarns and its psychedelic zig-zag knitwear, but this collection by Angela Missoni, which will appear in the year that marks the brand's 60th anniversary, was nothing to do with those particular textile effects. This collection is like an enlargement of microscopic details, the stripes and blobs of colour blown up to become merging blocks, graded from white to red, or fragments of gigantic stripes creating geometric patterns.
It's very sculptural, with sequences of layers including some semi-transparent treatments, and very painterly, as in a beautiful long dress in white voile that looks as if it has been dipped in red watercolour at one end, so that the colour is all on the straps and tops, merging in diaphanous purity.
Add some sophisticated fabrics and print patterns, and the palette is complete, principally white, yellow, red, green and black. The show was arranged so that the predominant white of the first looks morphed to red and yellows before moving towards aquatic themes with green and blue, and the final gowns in black. In some garments, the texture of the fabric recalls the scales of fish, producing a curious mermaid effect heightened by the glinting reflections. In others, the striped, geometrical areas have something in common with the ribbing of fish fins.
The Missoni DNA is still there, but we are presented with a microscope analytical view. With stunning results.
The accessories include bags with white cross-body straps, and shades that sometimes look like swimming goggles, adding to the mermaid effect of some looks. Chunky bracelets and choker necklaces in transparent crystal.
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