New men's style advice for spring 2012 from the top designer brands
Gentlemen, kickstart your expense accounts because spring/summer 2012 is gearing up to be one of the most thrilling yet in terms of designer menswear. The charismatic and colourful threads of daywear are front and centre for the season where vacation vestments pack an effortless elegance reminiscent of Frank Sinatra chilling poolside in Las Vegas. We help you discern what to shop with our style watch of what the elite menswear brands are bringing to the party this season.
Ermenegildo Zegna: innovative techniques & personalized cashmere
Upon setting foot into an Ermenegildo Zegna boutique, one’s quality standards are instantly amplified. A champion when it comes to luxury menswear, this season the brand brings us a soft, sophisticated and informal collection of shiny silk suits, unlined jackets, bi-colour Mackintosh duster coats and Microsilk trench coats. The new shiny surfaces and sun-bleached colours are ideal for a beach boardwalk.
We instantly fancied the the new spring/summer collection when we saw it make its debut in Milan. Inspired by what is described as “the dazzling splendour of a torrid dawn,” it is nonchalant, contemporary elegance at its best. Soft silhouettes –a study referred to as ‘Soft Contrasts’ – are characterized by organic materials mixed and treated with technical fabrics. Pick up the new style by colour blocking pastel-hued pieces, wearing a sharp jacket atop soft jogging trousers and combining a rustically-hued suit with a shiny dress shirt. The shiny effect has also been added to accessories from iridescent bronze leather shoes to sandals and bags. Pay close attention to the custom blend of silk, cotton and linen in the collection, which has been printed and treated to create that sun-bleached look for the summer.
Ermenegildo Zegna’s latest customized retail offering is quite the novel one: Premium Cashmere. The new collection consists of selected pieces crafted in the brand’s own Premium Cashmere yarns. Choose from a variety of exclusive sweater pieces such as crewneck, V-neck and half zip. The Premium Cashmere yarn is made from the finest white cashmere fibres that come from young mountain goats raised in Mongolia. These fibres are recognized as being the best in world, lightweight and extremely soft.
Brioni: Cuban cool
Fans of this fine Italian menswear maison swear by their suit savoir faire. This season, Brioni’s master tailors bring us the ultimate lightweight jacket. The two button ‘Piuma’ (feather) jacket weighs in at an airy 200 grams, perfect to hold its own in warm weather. Ignited by the vibrant heyday of 1950s Cuba, the jacket comes proposed in either a silk or a wool/silk blend, in electric blue, orange, fuchsia, white, taupe and grey.
Along with the jacket are an array of weightless allies, from silk polos and cotton trousers to linen Bermuda shorts. Must-have accessories from this collection include a pair of slip-on natural ostrich loafers, a printed silk pocket handkerchief (to tuck into your ‘Piuma’ jacket breast pocket of course), thin knitted ties and the quintessential panama hat. Keeping with the Cuban trend are the limited-edition chocolate lace-ups in braided calfskin, which have an unmistakable cigar-quality to them.
Zilli: slick suits
Zilli hallmark the flair of a Frenchman in their new essential midsummer suits. For a formal function, their linen, cashmere and silk suit in an iridescent blue is the perfect weightless classic. For daytime, the French brand proposes the standard weightless blazer in silk and cashmere, as well as cotton and silk blends. Mix these easy-wear jackets in yellow and checkered blue or black with a pullover and pair of cotton jeans.
The clothes are just a precursor to the sumptuous hand crafted accessories, made at the brand’s atelier in Lyon, France. Expert craftsmen and women (some of whom have been with the maison for decades) continue to develop new techniques of working with ultra-fine calfskin and lambskin suede as well as with exotic animals such as crocodile, python and chinchilla cashmere. When it comes to the latest bags and luggage, the Ferdi is the ideal holdall designed in white bullcalf skin, and lined with indigo blue suede goatskin.
Ermenegildo Zegna brand profile
Brioni brand profile
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