Max Mara fall-winter 2012/13 ready-to-wear Featured

Military and naval looks, olive drab and sailor-stripes

The Max Mara woman for next autumn-winter is absolutely androgynous, with short-cropped hair and the confidence needed to take up the fight alongside – or against? – the Marines and Commandos. The collection is underscored by an overall olive drab military look, reinforced by details such as gaiters with leather straps, military shirts, and dress on top suspended from overall-type straps. Tight buttoned blouse cuffs reach down onto the hands, and there is often a wide, textured leather cumberbund.

There is a combination of "armed forces" in some looks in which a greatcoat is worn over a sailor's horizontally-striped top. Some of the coats are shaped like the boilersuits or overalls worn by the stokers below decks. But it's mainly about the coats, which are very long and swish gracefully exposing glimpses of the beautifully crafted lining. Sculpture created by the wearer's movement and the air that forms shapely billows, as in Boccioni's "Unique forms of continuity in space."

Crocodile-textures are important in this collection, in black trenchcoats, leather-hued velvety tops, in the bags and straps, in dresses. Amongst the accessories, there are braces holding up slightly baggy, short-cut trousers. A superbly simple day-dress is propelled into realms of heady beauty by the cool light grey colour, the furry armwarmers, and above all by the perfect contrapposto stride of Sara Blomqvist modelling it on the runway. Dramatic black and white houndstooth in dresses worn over dark tops and suspended on black overall shoulder straps.