Krizia's Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection was all about andrognous and curved forms. The show felt like a David Bowie retrospective, with the models all sporting short coiffed blonde wigs as they strutted down the runway in gender-bending looks. Krizia founder, the legendary Mariuccia Mandelli, sat at the end of the runway watching as each of her designs came down the line. For this collection, Krizia looked to the East for inspiration. We saw a lot of interesting and unusual aspects to the clothes, in particular the blazers and jackets with curvy pointed shoulders inspired by the Chinese pagoda.
Unique to Krizia’s collection were outfits that were half skirt/half pant turning into monoleg pieces where one leg was left exposed and the other in a pant, perhaps designed to accentuate the simultaneously feminine and masculine aspects of the collection.
The curved line shape was prominent throughout the collection, appearing in the form of bullet shaped hips, swing coats, arched and slanted panels and in the trousers that had a very loose crotch (inspired by Thai fisherman pants). The waistcoats inspired by the masculine kimono are definitely great to pair with evening looks. The collection’s evening wear included a silk black evening dress with a white school girl collar and a plunging backside. We also saw a flame red colour for evening looks in both dresses and furs. Krizia worked a lot with superfine stretch leather to create stitched pants, wool and silk satin for casual wear shirts and trousers and fox fur worked in a variety of different colours ranging from flame red to black and ink blue.
When it came to accessories almost every daytime look was worn with chunky socks and legwarmers, something that is essential for the fall season. We also saw big scarves and fox furs accompanying the garments. The shoes included long and short laced boots, ankle boots and sandals – all with a 16 centimetre heel! Talk about a collection that goes to new heights!
Read the article on the Krizia spring-summer 2011 women's collection