Straight from Detroit, John Varvatos arrived in Milan and presented the fall-winter 2011-12 collection inside the Baroque church of San Paolo Converso. The brand created a railway station, with trains leaving from Milan and arriving in New York, and a runway in the form of a railway track linking the two cities.
The context provided an indication of the dominant theme of the collection. The American fashion designer's take on the trends for the season is that of a wanderer, a modern vagabond who travels constantly in the city and in the countryside.
The overall profile is one of softness and informality, oozing confidence and freedom. Coats, jerseys and shirts caress the body as well as cladding it, never tight or rigid. Superposed layers provide a complex but unitary style. Coats are not padded, so that they remain light and comfortable during travels. A tough look is added by seamless hemlines, double collars, sleeveless arms, hook fasteners and studs, but the style is nonetheless smart and refined.
Knitwear is warm and comfortable, with combinations of fabrics and seamless hems. Cardigans and sweaters have arms and back in fabric. Scarves are an ever-present feature, whether wide, narrow, or with leather trim. The traveller's style is completed by open-finger gloves, leather ankle boots, and leather bags and totes.
Varvatos has used a variety of brown tints for the fall/winter 2011-12 season, including shades of sand, chocolate, coffee and rust. There are accents of wine-red and black, with occasional appearances of grey.
Click here to read the index of articles for the fall-winter 2011-2012 men's collections