This season’s collection is the official debut as creative director for British designer Marcus Constable who was nominated by the Moschillo group to bring together the 2011-2012 men’s fall/winter collection. Saverio Moschillo believes him to be world-class talent and it seems he is right judging by their presentation during Milan's fashion week.
The ultimate balance between vintage and modern, this collection is inspired by the men’s working uniforms of the past. Thirties style blue collar, steal mills and railway workers come to mind when viewing this wardrobe. The collection takes on a sophisticated edge with complex structures and materials such as herringbone wool and tweed as well as its distinct décor details.
The appeal of the collection rests heavily on contrast matching for the personalization of a look. Retro-style trousers rolled up to the ankle are matched with sartorial coats. Knitted details and leather becomes prominent design elements, as well as functional, on many of the pieces from cigarette trousers to jackets. Signature features of the collection include vintage sequins and chains of gold and silver metal, which become embellishments for T-shirts and jackets.
The great protagonist is the collection’s knitwear, which features contemporary versions of trim panels, innovative asymmetries and patchwork. Knitwear colours are traditional using black, navy, grey and brown but also include new colours such as burnt orange, mustard yellow and olive green. Cream, mud coloured patterns and black and white prints bring a modern look to the more casual pieces of the collection.
Click here to read the index of articles for the fall-winter 2011-2012 men's collections