For our series of reviews of current fashion trends by top fashion designers for the fall/winter 2011/2012 collections, Luxos was present at the Corneliani show. Teatro Manzoni is a prestigious location, and the large foyer was packed with journalists and buyers. We were treated to a view backstage, where models, stylists, make-up artists and hairdressers were working frenetically on the final preparations, apparently oblivious to the television cameras and flashbulbs all around. The auditorium had been modified, with attractive wooden-frame seats surrounding the runway. Red spotlights played on the audience, with an atmosphere dense in conversation, theatre smoke and anticipation.
The first look to emerge, to the sounds of dramatic, Inception-type music on a runway with a black and white cinema screen backdrop, was a super-elegant grey trenchcoat, as if to confirm that the influence of military motifs is still strong. Corneliani confirm the value of the 53 years' tradition in quality garments with superbly detailed looks, in which the aviator style was another dominant trend, in dark grey and dark blue, as well as in the more classical natural leather look. The classic pilot's hat with earmuffs was paired with a woollen jacket, grey trousers and high brown leather boots, with an intriguing bag in fluffy fur. Dominant colours are the greys, dark blue, and beige.
A super-elegant grey suit over a high polo-necked jersey was completed with a cloth cap. This was an important accessory in many outfits, which recalled northern England, worker-type outfits, though the coordination of cap, boots, overcoat and suit transformed them into a smart though alternative style. As the show went on, the temperature seemed to be dropping, with some garments designed for Cortina d'Ampezzo or even colder, with padded, fur-trimmed coats and intriguing trousers with a chunky corduory look that was great in the all-white outfit completed with a large, diagonally-ribbed bag. Designer Sergio Corneliani emerged to warm appreciation and applause at the end of the show, the first in the series of Milan's January international fashion week.
Click here to read the index of articles for the fall-winter 2011-2012 men's collections