When Krizia creates something, there can never be any limits; Mariuccia Mandelli – one of the top fashion designers – incessantly explores everything that is most romantic and creative in the entire spectrum of art. This is evident from the brand name itself, which is from an unfinished dialogue by Plato (Critias in English) with a reference to female vanity. For Krizia, fashion is not just giving form to a garment. It is first and foremost an idea that develops from many intuitions that are combined to form something attractive. Mandelli utilizes influences from a variety of sources, including the fluid shapes by architect Zaha Hadid and the sinuous forms by sculptor Tony Cragg. These ductile and malleable surfaces are skilfully transformed into garments.
This year, the spring/summer 2011 collection seems to be an attempt to create an illusion for the spectator. The first dresses are delicate and light, suggesting peace and tranquillity, with predominantly pale shades, camel, eggshell, butter and cream. Though relatively neutral, they nonetheless highlight the models' shapes. But then, everything changes, first with the addition of certain accessories, and then through the textiles themselves. Colours become more dramatic, brighter, glowing as if with an inner light: silver, magenta, bright green, golden yellow and lilac, creating a scintillating series of reflections like a myriad of tiny bulbs.
The overall impression suggests a desire to return to the so-called difficult colours, those that are often set aside because they are hard to use in current fashion trends. Krizia, on the other hand, adds them to their palette and brilliantly exploits their potential, creating evocative and striking garments while never losing touch with the style and fascination that have always been distinctive characteristics of the marque.
The collection shows meticulous attention to details and accessories, that are sometimes notable in their scale, such as long earrings reaching down to the shoulders, and very high and bright heels, in total contrast with the sand-coloured dress. Plastic is used in a very daring way to create hair accessories of great style and sophistication.
The whole range seems to be pervaded by a prevailing breeze – a trade wind – that creates waves and movement, making the woman light and sinuous. The effect is enhanced by the use of fabrics such as linen, satin and cotton. A fuller-bodied effect is provided by more rigid materials such as enamelled leather and crumpled taffeta, which provides an effect of creased paper sending reflections in all directions.
Overall, the collection is light and refreshing, with garments that can be worn by all women to feel comfortable, attractive and smart, but also sexy and with a touch of extravagance.