The new creatures designed by the couturiers reveal the unthinkable.
The new femme fatale is oblivious to the heads she turns, the admiring glances and that épater la bourgeois that is increasingly hard to achieve today. Long wavy hair, often blonde, flame red lips and clothes of unutterable charm, essential for reiterating a concept: the comeback of the body, that tool of perdition and brazen message of eroticism. A return marked by a strategic evolution in tune with the new forms of femininity.
In a perfect postmodern pastiche, contemporary fashion proposes rather correct reworkings of the underwear of bygone times and places, where romantics are clad in broderie anglaise (Comme des Garçons), stars with white telephones in sumptuous silks (Christian Dior), yet others in a swell of gathers, dangerously cinched waistlines and unrepentant glimpses of cheekily displayed lingerie, albeit with a touch of irony (Louis Vuitton). Culottes, baby dolls, brassieres, corsets and suspender belts are fished out of the closet to conquer the daytime dreams of an everyday to be reinvented with an eye to transgression. And while the board of directors will certainly not be treated to a show of the dishabille of the female managers increasingly found at the head of the major corporations, summer evenings will give them the chance to enjoy an extra frisson.
Among the creators of this risqué tone, Jean Paul Gaultier, who has revisited his most iconic past to rediscover the visible bra Madonna loves so much, Antonio Marras, who adds a more spicy flavour to his romantic moods, AF Vandevorst, Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Ferré, Marc Jacobs, and Ermanno Scervino.
Prada‘s collection of unusual cuts, 1950s Miami-inspired prints and exquisite accessories is infused with the thrill of “so short that any shorter is impossible”, showing off the legs in short pants and frocks as sheer as gossamer.
Gucci’s sexy creature plays with skin-revealing dresses and risqué sheaths in a sudden dash towards an almost impudent femininity. The lingerie style aided and abetted by skin-tight pants and body-hugging python and leather jackets. The colours explore the entire emotional spectrum of seduction, from the deepest blacks to brighter shades such as orange and magenta.
Free and easy is the keyword of the underwear style unveiled in the Louis Vuitton spring/summer collection: gathered bodices like a second skin, cycling shorts in unprecedented stretch brocade and precious baby doll frocks in hand-embroidered silk tulle create an ironic sensuality as precious as bygone times.
Icy, ruthless, in true Gilda or Dita von Teese style, the stars invented by Dior renew the eye-catching allure of the great lingerie classics by turning them into evening dresses with surprising effects: short white slips worn under quilted bustiers between lace and tulle in a game of black and white pave the way for a triumph of vintage negligees. The shimmer and gleam of bronze that only the noblest silk can aspire to rightly emphasise the prosperous curves of a silhouette squeezed into pitiless bustiers.
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