As would be expected from a marque that has made the elegance generated by traditional crafting in combination with modern design a fundamental part of its image, the new Canali autumn-winter 2010 collection, presented on the catwalks on 18th January, is based on sharp tailoring, geometrical patterns, juxtaposed against more supple lines. The colours are warm, and the overall look has a vintage and aristocratic feel.
The two major departures for the season are the Milano collection and the Kei collection. The Milano Collection features slim lines for suits, overcoats and jackets with fitted waists, narrow shoulders and a sharply defined formal construction. Slimmer sleeves and higher armholes for fluidity and comfort of movement, plus narrow, high-set lapels. Trouser leg bottoms are also tapered as a final touch to complete this look for men who are modern and dynamic, but always impeccable.
The “Kei Collection”, in which the traditional Neapolitan-style tailoring of the deconstructed Kei Jacket and its natural shoulders has been extended to suits and overcoats, reflects the tastes of customers shaped by a tradition of romanticism and sophistication, who love the comfort and natural wearability offered by these garments.
Kei style is also the ideal complement for sportier jackets enhanced by flannel details, like the open sleeve bottom with contrasting colour trim, the sleeve patch with T-stitching or the small coin pocket.
Winter Tale returns as always with a particularly fine model and a specially styled fit that enhances the more classically elegant construction. What makes it so special is the meticulous care lavished on every detail: silk button holes, flower holder bar, rich detailing and a specially styled, longer, waisted jacket with well-defined but harmonious shoulders.
As regards fabrics and colours, the major themes are combed wools in retro tweeds, pied-de-poule, chevrons and micro checks on melange backgrounds, in colourways featuring grey, blue and black, with powder azure, petrol green and oil yellow highlights. This creates the Austere Chic theme, giving the fabric a modern, minimal and refined look that is the perfect fit for the contemporary lines in the Milano Collection.
The Leisure collection created for next Autumn-Winter satisfies the needs of modern man to the full: from life at work in the metropolis, to travel and leisure. Outerwear is modern, practical and comfortable, reflecting the casual style of the metropolitan man and traveller: short trenches, double-breasted or travel coats in wool beaver with detachable waistcoat, and completely unlined jackets in jersey or double wool.
Technical fabrics have been chosen for the practical Travel Jacket, with its special system of detachable straps for wearing like a backpack. For the utmost travelling convenience, garments in the finest double cashmere or wool feature hidden pockets, pen-holders and passport wallets.
The range also includes smart, lightweight sweaters in crease resistant Super 160’s combed wool, as well as poplin stretch shirts that can also be worn with Cpockets jeans in new washed finishes, or the innovative tailored jeans. The travel track suit in fine cashmere or cotton, with or without hood, is highly recommended.
Besides the black that is the ideal expression of the businessman or traveller’s style, other colourways include greys - melange and granite - interspersed with neutral colours, powder azure or oil yellow for micro fancy patterns.
Golfing style is epitomised by the atmosphere of exclusive luxury that permeates the finest Club Houses. Canali, “Preferred Supplier” for the last two years of the European Team in the Ryder Cup, the top international golf competition held this year from October 1st to 3rd in Wales at the Celtic Manor Resort in Newport, presents garments styled for leisure as well as for play: a total look comprising a travel jacket, waistcoat, water-resistant reversible short jacket and trousers with a special hidden ball pocket in breathable, water-resistant fabric.
Off the golf course, technical characteristics make way for the cotton hand feel of the fabrics used in the overcoat, for down technical jackets, for leather and cashmere jackets, and for sweaters in water-resistant carded wool with jacquard and inlay patterns. The elegant colour palette presents shades of blue, black, grey and teal.
From sport to relaxing mountain landscapes and leisure time. The colours are warmer and more reassuring: natural tones and shades of brown enlivened with wine burgundy red brush strokes. Offering a retro interpretation of the mountain lifestyle are warm wool or cashmere down jackets, over-jackets in sophisticated traditional patterns like Prince of Wales check and pied-de- poule, embellished by important fur collars, and garments in cashmere of varying degrees of fineness (from 3 to 12), with jacquard patterns, inlay designs and stripes for plain or patterned wool and wool-cotton trousers.
Finally, paying tribute to the company’s origins, Canali presents a mini raincoat collection featuring the historic 1940s logo with an endearing cat (an animal famous for its dislike of water) wearing a raincoat and carrying an umbrella under its arm. Uniting function and style, there are five models in the range: single- breasted, double-breasted, classic, reversible and technical with hood for the golf course, in nylon micro-fibre, cotton or cashmere with a special finishing.
The models in the footwear range reflect the tastes and styles of both more traditional men, as well as of their trendier, sportier counterparts. Only the finest leathers are used - from full grain calfskin to crocodile - and the broader range offers more room for creativity and innovative fine detailing.
Models inspired by the English tradition, but reinterpreted according to Italian style, include lace-up brogues in shaded leathers with rubber sport sole, two- buckle monk straps in modern vintage effect glazed leather with craqué finish, or “fox hunt” slip-ons with satin-finish suede tassels hand-shaded in modern cola or orange colourways.
Fine Goodyear welting and supple tumbled leathers have been selected for the traditional offering of classic Derby or Oxford shoes in unusual greys or blues. Products of the brand’s ceaseless quest for stylistic innovation are the ankle boot with hidden stitching, or the Derby shoe with a hot branded swallow’s tail.
The Goodyear welted shoes in hand polished moka or ebony crocodile are masterpieces of hand crafting, as are the evening smoking slippers in dazzling black patent leather.
The leisure range has also grown: mountain style low boots with warm fur inners for the metropolitan man, sneakers and cashmere lined ankle boots with brightly coloured laces, including the classic sixties style San Crispino construction ankle boot with a supple, coloured, nappa leather lining and crepe sole.
Also new are the dark leather sneakers with contrasting side bands in bright burgundy or ochre for a distinctly retro look.
The range of shirts presents a choice of more than 25 collars and now offers slim fits for the fashion conscious or lovers of informal styling. Checks are back and represent the true leitmotif of the season, with both small and very large versions in shades of grey.
The collection of belts grows ever more sophisticated and all are produced exclusively from fine, supple, innovative materials. Tubular belts hand-sewn from a single piece of the finest, supplest nappa and suede, or tumbled calfskin, also available with a ring buckle.
An absolute innovation for the collection is the feisty tubular shark leather belt. While the model crafted from the finest, softest ostrich or crocodile leather is an absolute must for the sophistication and elegance of the true connoisseur. In a more classical vein are the reversible two-tone leather belts fitted with special reversible buckles in nickel or silver galvanic finishes, or the models in brushed calfskin with a cola colour glaze, or in suede, featuring a brogue motif to wear with shoes in the same style.
For the young but sophisticated man there are elasticated braid belts in wool melange or coconut print leather, featuring trendy pine or lavender colourways.
The fine accessories in original materials created for the travelling man include soft flannel bags with crocodile print calfskin detailing, and attache cases, bandolier packs and laptop bags in soft deerskin with a special peccary print, embellished with contrasting details in mirror polish leather.
The collection offers various types of manager briefcase: with one or two compartments, in clay-coloured, brushed calfskin with sophisticated blue leather contrast details.
The collection of small leather goods features the same style as the bags, offering wallets in various formats, business card holders, small but practical credit card wallets, and key-rings in various shapes. All fine examples of elegance and style.
For a complete list of Canali boutiques, click here.
View more collections for Autumn / Winter 2010-2011: