It was in 1898 when Paul Morszeck began producing trunks in his factory in Cologne, initially using wood though conscious of the need for a tougher and lighter material. By the 1930s, as aeroplanes filled the skies, Paul's son Richard was attracted by this new phenomenon, principally for the material in which planes were made: aluminium, lightweight and strong, ideal for the perfect suitcase. This innovative material, plus the expertise developed by the company, were the factors that contributed to making it one of the world’s leading luggage brands. Just like its luggage, Rimowa was set for a long journey. Gradually, alongside its traditional trunks, Rimowa introduced equally durable suitcases, camera cases and other containers used to carry and protect all types of objects and equipment.

The new millennium brought with it some new technological developments, such as polycarbonate. This new and indestructible material soon attracted attention from the experts at Rimowa, who quickly incorporated it into their cutting-edge manufacturing procedures, revamping their cases while remaining loyal to their concept of 'handcraft meets high tech.' On your next trip, before packing, make sure you grab your Rimowa Classic Flight Attaché.

Rimowa
www.rimowa.com

Located on a relatively quiet street called Takkeciler Sokak, this cutting-edge store’s name is dhoku. Owned by third-generation carpet dealer Memet Güreli, the six-year-old shop was born out of Güreli’s other carpet store Ethnicon, where patchwork carpets were first introduced to the bazaar. The opening of dhoku caused a groundbreaking change: Güreli transformed Turkish carpets from something traditional to modern home décor objects.

dhoku is very different from ordinary carpet shops, because it morphs the craft of carpet-making into something more sustainable through recycling and upcycling. Reinventing and repairing worn-out carpets and kilims from all over Anatolia, the dhoku team creates unique pieces to suit the sophisticated tastes of today’s bohemian-chic customers.

Four of the seven collections at dhoku feature the trademark patchwork rugs and kilims. The Antique, Decadent, Vintage, and Traditional collections share many characteristics, yet they are differentiated by small details. For example, the Traditional carpets feature more vibrant colours and dynamic patterns, whereas Antique pieces are hallmarked by old patterns with more pastel colours. The Anachron series reinvent old carpets, giving them new life with a thorough face-lift that often includes a total re-dyeing. Each of these series succeeds in creating a contemporary piece of art from an ordinary carpet.

dhoku's own rug collections consist of rugs and kilims that are made from scratch. These are hand-woven in the Aegean by local carpet makers who use thousand-year-old weaving techniques, working with handspun wool from free-grazing sheep. The designs are often left to the inspiration of the rug makers themselves. The texture of the dhoku series is also upgraded, with kilims that are much thicker than traditional pieces.

The dhoku team has created an innovative new weaving technique that adds that extra touch to the millennial art. What they call the 'gapless' weaving technique ensures that the holes found in classic rugs are filled, creating smoother pieces.

By means of such inventive designs and techniques, dhoku brings new meaning to carpets, which are brought up to a higher plane with respect to their traditional function and symbolism, acquiring a cool status as objects of admiration, much like contemporary paintings. They are destined for the connoisseurs of the modern world.

This was demonstrated to perfection when dhoku was invited to become a parallel participant in the first Istanbul Design Biennial show in 2012. dhoku showcased two exhibitions for the event; one was Kilim Alterations: Weaving an Exception, featuring a collective work by Ali Cindoruk, Aslıhan Demirtaş, Mine Özkar, and Seçkin Maden. The other was Notations: An Exhibition of Kilim Recordings, featuring the designs of Ayşe Birsel, Ela Cindoruk, Koray Özgen, Filip Pagowski, Bibi Seck, and Superpool. All the exhibited pieces have now been added to dhoku’s permanent collection and will soon be available for sale.

dhoku

Takkeciler Sokak, 58-60 

Kapalıçarşı, Istanbul

Tel. +90 212 5276 841

MADRID
Instituto Medico Laser is the perfect answer to a quick fix in the heart of the city. An elegant entrance to a historic building ushers you into this trusted institute where doctors and medical specialists are on hand to perform everything from skin rejuvenation to plastic surgery. The first consultation is free so stop by to discuss the best treatment for you during your stay in Madrid. You can expect to go beyond skin deep at IML.

Instituto Médico Láser
Paseo General Martínez Campos, 33
28010 Madrid
Tel. +34 91 7024 627

Life & Men, as its name suggests, is an aesthetics studio dedicated to the gents. From basic facials to advanced skincare treatments, from body wraps to therapeutic massages, and from hair removal to pedicures, this studio also provides dermatology and physical therapy services. Professionals at Life & Men will personalize your programme according to your needs. With locations in Madrid, Barcelona, Murcia, Mallorca and Tenerife, it takes good care of jet-setting men wherever they go.

Life & Men                                                            Life & Men - Barcelona
Calle Padre Damián, 29                                        Calle Mayor, 25
28036 Madrid                                                        08870 Sitges
Tel. +34 91 1853 355                                            Tel. +34 93 8113 839

BARCELONA
Iradier Club Mujer is a women’s health and sports membership club. The first 10 readers of LUXOS who contact Iradier can enjoy a day there for free! On its extensive property, you will find a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, gym, tennis court, golf course, hot yoga and dance studios and much more. Iradier is best known for its thermal spring and spa where you can let your hair down and relax for an hour or two. Additional beauty treatments make this a genuine one-stop wellness destination where you will emerge feeling brand new from top to toe.

Iradier Club Mujer
Carrer Escoles Pies, 105
08017 Barcelona
Tel. +34 93 2541 717

For a more intimate and decidedly exotic experience, head to Silom Spa, an authentic Thai spa where you should not miss the popular Royal Thai massage that works on your energy points. Silom Thai Ritual lets you indulge with exfoliation, moisturization, massage, hydrotherapy and a facial. That’s not all. You can look and feel your best this summer with the Asian Revive treatment;a body scrub using Asian ingredients that is followed by an aromatherapeutic massage to impart true relaxation.

Silom Spa
Carrer de Valencia, 304
08009 Barcelona
Tel. +34 93 2726 662

ALICANTE
Overlooking the Mediterranean sea, Alicante is a beautiful region that makes you feel good to be alive. SHA Wellness Clinic does more than that: it creates a better, healthier version of you. With 93 suites, SHA consists of five buildings, Zen, Mediterranean and tropical gardens, swimming pools and waterfalls, the Shamadi restaurant, a boutique and a 2,000-square-metre wellness area, all spread out on Albir Beach. From half-day and 14-day spa visits, to extensive aesthetics programmes that sculpt the body, it simply redefines ‘wellness.’

Strung-out, sleeping badly, chain-smoking, or simply want to unwind and even lose a few kilos? SHA has a solution for virtually every malaise. Choose from an impressive list of massages, facials and specialized therapies like traditional Chinese medicine. This is just the tip of the iceberg, as you will also find preventive medicine, specialized diagnostics and lifestyle solutions at SHA.

SHA Wellness Clinic
Calle de Verderol, 5, El Albir
03581 Alicante
Tel. +34 96 6811 199

For 180-degree change, imagine the Far East located right on the slopes of Sierra Cortina in Alicante. What will it be like? Barceló Asia Gardens Hotel & Thai Spa is your gateway into Asia, featuring exquisite Balinese-style accommodations and full pampering facilities. For a relaxing weekend getaway this summer, experience the 2-day Jankaseam programme at its exotic Thai spa that treats you to a body exfoliation, salt bath and aroma massage on day one, and a traditional Thai massage and facial treatment on day two.

Alternatively, why not transform your weekend visit into a long summer vacation? Barceló has three breathtaking outdoor infinity pools, two 18-hole golf courses, three theme parks, four Asian and Mediterranean restaurants and state-of-the-art meeting rooms, which means you can have the perfect excuse to mix business with pleasure, all against the stunning backdrop of the Costa Blanca.

Barceló Asia Gardens Hotel & Thai SPA
Glorieta del Fuego, s/n
Área del Parque Temático Terra Mítica
03502, Benidorm, Alicante
Tel. +34 96 6818 400

Ports 1961 is led by Creative Director Fiona Cibani, who grew up in Vancouver, where at a very young age she developed a passionate interest in fashion and an eye for detail at her family’s boutique. She went on to fine-tune her talent at Parsons in New York and it was while attending the prestigious design school that she heard of an opening at Ports and began working there under the artistic direction of Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2 fame. Her intercontinental background has informed her sensibility as a designer, as she has a deep understanding of the cosmopolitan, fast-paced, borderless world we live in and what her discerning clients need and expect.

With a meticulous attention to detail that means that every thread, every button and zipper is made in Italy, Ms. Cibani’s designs cater to the affluent and world-travelled who have a true understanding of and appreciation for luxury. The clothes are eminently wearable: the women’s collection this spring plays with layering and combines leather, organza and lace, in complementary asymmetrical silhouettes, and features extraordinary hand-sewn bead and baguette detailing. The vibrant men’s collection boasts ultra-light full canvas jackets and coats that are sporty yet polished, as well as slim silhouettes and outerwear in state-of-the-art fabrics that are ideal for the contemporary gladiator.

The clean and simple designs which are as discreet are as they are divinely tailored may be the new kids in town, but are poised to take it and the world by storm!

The isolated and harsh environment of the peninsula is dominated by the magnificent Hajar mountain range which extends about 640 kilometers from R’as Al-Haddad in the south, up to Khasab before it concludes in Ru’us Al-Jebal creating deep fjords and inlets which jut out into the sea – natural characteristics for which the area has often been called “the Norway of the Middle East.” But a trip to Musandam is worthwhile not only for the area’s natural beauty, but also for the many outdoors activities such as paragliding, diving and hiking which can be experienced on the peninsula’s rough terrain. It is thus an area to be visited by all.

Six Senses Zighy Bay
‏Located within Musandam is also the region’s renowned Six Senses Zighy Bay Resort. Acclaimed throughout the Middle East for its serene and peaceful ambiance, guests arrive by a soaring paraglide ride, a fresh-air speed boat or a car drive over the rough Hajar Mountains. The resort is set on a stretch of sandy beach and resembles a traditional Omani village, with narrow passageways between individual villas juxtaposed by palm trees and sandy roads. The resort is the epitome of “barefoot luxury” – a term which adequately describes the simple yet stunning and also, environmentally-friendly ambiance of this special abode.

A brisk walk around the serene property will reveal 82 villas complete with built to resemble traditional Omani style residences. Quaintly decorated with white walls and dark wood interiors, each villa features its own infinity pool situated away from public view in order to ensure privacy and tranquility. From out on the deck, which is surrounded by wicker gates, one can revel in the stunning view of golden sands and the Arabian Sea set before them. In addition, charming touches such as chessboards, his-and-hers bicycles and a small collection of literary classics grace the interiors of each residence adding a personalized and intimate ambiance.

Revitalize
‏Just being surrounded by Musandam’s breathtaking natural landscape is enough to relax and revitalize. Yet Six Senses heightens the experience by offering one of the region’s premier spas. Featuring a host of treatments in addition to personalized wellness programmes available in three, five and seven day packages according to varying themes, the spa also provides courses such as Yoga and meditation classes as well as workshops conducted by visiting specialists in health and wellness.

Yet relaxing and revitalizing goes beyond just a spa experience. Six Senses promotes a healthy way of life through organic foods and sustainable fishing practices. A walk through the property will reveal the resort’s charming organic garden, where fresh fruits and vegetables are cultivated daily and used in cuisine prepared in the resort’s restaurants. Abiding by sustainable fishing practices prohibits the resort from serving of hammour and king fish, both which are overfished. So adamant it is on eating and fresh and healthy, you’ll be ensured of delicious home-made cuisine at whichever eatery you select. A definite restaurant to note is The Edge, a restaurant situated on top of the Hajar Mountains overlooking Six Senses and the stunning beachfront below.

A destination which calms the mind and the body, Six Senses Zighy Bay is about another kind of luxury. Here luxury comes in the form of the experience of simple earthly pleasures – such as watching a magnificent sunset on the beach, devouring fresh, home-made ingredients, long walks or a serene boat ride along the coast. The resort is a gem within the Gulf – a naturally hidden enclave which provides the much-needed escapade from bustling city centers.

Eric Carlson is a truly unique talent in the realm of luxury design and architecture. Exclusively for LUXOS, he shared his insight on what it means to be an architect of the luxury experience, how economy has become an aesthetic, and what it’s like to have created some of the world’s most iconic designer boutiques.

Carlson’s studio created every part of the iconic Louis Vuitton store, from the outside in, including the inverted spiral design of the store’s interior and the iconic logo-cut metal screens that have now become a hallmark of Vuitton boutiques. In fact, this boutique represents the first time that Vuitton has explored architecture as an expression of their brand identity. In doing so, Carbondale set the 21st century bar for luxury boutique design. For Carlson, an eternal pursuer of excellence, to be given carte blanche by Louis Vuitton was nothing short of liberating.

While the aesthetical limitations of architecture are often driven by the economy, Carlson strongly believes that true, universal beauty can have no restrictions. This is why Carbondale’s Louis Vuitton masterpiece has won such recognition.

“When the concept is carried through to the end, that’s when compromises disappear. More importantly, the finished concept often casts out all preconceived ideas or formulas,” said Carlson. What began as a fascination with shapes, light and spaces has evolved into his greatest passion, and the raison d’être of his architecture firm, Carbondale. From an early age, Carlson has appreciated the way that intangible elements and design could define one’s experience of a space; whether that space is a boutique, a private home, or a skyscraper.

“Above all, at Carbondale, we give shape to a desire.”

Whether displaying a handful of luxury cars, as at Paris’s newest BMW store, or an entire luxury collection as at the Céline store on avenue Montaigne, each project brings Carbondale new challenges that require months of research and experimenting.

Now that Carlson has established Carbondale as a veritable creator of luxury experiences, he plans to expand into the realm of restaurants, hospitals, skyscrapers and even airports. Continually testing his knowledge, finding the finest artisans and materials, and aspiring to create the ultimate best is all in a day’s work for this fascinating design talent. Carlson summarizes the Carbondale approach: “When you’re working with the best, you know you can push the limits that much further.”

Carbondale Paris
Rue Etienne Marcel 54, 75002 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4482 7676
www.cdarch.com

Estée Lauder is a brand that is synonymous with the best in cosmetics and behind each product the company launches is a team of researchers, biologists and doctors to ensure that whatever touches your skin will only make it, and you, more beautiful.

This spring Estée Lauder introduces the New Perfectly Clean Collection, a line of five cleansers fortified with the New 3C Purity Complex, that soothes, balances and moisturises, leaving skin looking and feeling healthy and squeaky clean! Each of the refreshingly scented formulae is designed to work for all skin types as well as being multi-functional (cleanser and mask for example), making them a must not only at home but indispensable when you’re globetrotting around the world.
Love your skin, love yourself, cleanse it with care!

Jungfraujoch is Europe's highest railway station, at 3,454 metres. The journey starts at Interlaken-Ost and takes you through the solid rock of Mounts Eiger and Mönch, with two intermediate stations, the Eigerwand (Eiger Wall), and Eismeer (Sea of Ice). From the station, a ski-lift takes you up to the Sphinx observation hall, with spectacular views over the longest glacier in the Alps, and across to France, Germany and Italy. Explore the Ice Palace, a 1,000 square-metre cavern hewn by hand in the 1930s and carefully maintained ever since.

There is more ice all the year round in the Titlis Glacier Park, near Lucerne, where you travel up to 3,000 metres in the world's first revolving cable car. Apart from enjoying the views, you can see a glacier from inside in the Titlis Glacier Cave. There are all sorts of snow toys if you are making the trip with children. The park is open from May to October, weather permitting. The cablecar runs from Engelberg.

Also near Lucerne is Mount Pilatus, where the world's steepest cogwheel railway takes you up from Alpnachstad to Pilatus Kulm, running through lush meadows carpeted with Alpine flowers, past mountain streams and dramatic rock faces. Open from May to November, you can also take the aerial cableway to a viewpoint at 2,132 metres altitude.

One of Switzerland's most famous trains is the Glacier Express, often called the slowest express train in the world. It runs from Zermatt to Davos or St. Moritz, a trip that takes about seven hours and takes you through superb mountain landscapes, deep gorges, beautiful valleys, 91 tunnels and across 291 bridges.

The Bernina Express runs between Tirano in Italy and St. Moritz, continuing on to Coira, and the section between Thusis and Tirano is part of the Unesco World Heritage. The train climbs to Ospizio Bernina at 2,253 metres altitude, along a route that is a tribute to engineering.

Railway enthusiasts will love the Furka cogwheel steam railway, where a vintage steam train takes you from Realp station in Uri Canton to Gletsch, Valais. The train is over 80 years old, and it makes a quick stop at Tiefenbach to fill up with water. Operated mainly by volunteers, it runs along a route that was abandoned in 1982 after the construction of a new track. In one section, a sprinkler system had to be installed, in order to protect the forested nature reserve from the risk of fire caused by the steam engine. The Swiss dedication to perfection is perfectly encapsulated in these and many other railway travel experiences.

Info:
For further information and bookings, see:
Jungfrau: www.jungfrau.ch, tel. +41 (0)33 8287 233
Titlis Glacier Park: www.titlis.ch, +41 (0)41 6395 050
Mount Pilatus Lucerne: www.pilatus.ch, +41 (0)41 3291 111
Glacier Express: www.glacierexpress.ch, tel. +41 (0)848 642 442
Furka steam railways: www.dfb.ch, tel. +41 848 000 144

Photos:
All courtesy of the railway companies above, and of swiss-image.ch

Read more:
Swiss gold refinery Valcambi

The event is not limited to the shops however and there are several wonderful ways that the public can enjoy it thanks to a wonderful selection of activities! There will be complimentary walking tours that leave from Sloane Square that are highly recommended several times a day, (check schedule on the event website, www.chelseainbloom.co.uk/tour-schedule), or for a more exotic experience hop on a complimentary rickshaw for a leisurely and fun experience! You can also purchase flowers (all profits will be donated to charity) for the Wall of Flowers and be a part of the event by contributing your own creative flair to the on going display; watch it evolve as over the course of the 5 days and transform into a stunning pattern. And what botanical event would be complete without a maze? Try your luck in the one that will be located on Sloane Square!

Several of the area cafes will also dedicate their menus to the wonderful world of flowers with floral themed teas, sweet confections, juices, fantastically imaginative savoury dishes and much more; or enjoy a glass of champagne at the Pommery Champagne bar!

The last day of the event will see the Saturday Market in full bloom where market traders will create delectable foods inspired by flowers. And should you feel inspired to plant your own little corner of loveliness at home, stop by the Seed Pantry (in Duke of York Square) and pick up all you need to create your own little window garden!

Brunello Cucinelli, Hackett, Montblanc, Anya Hindmarch and Rag & Bone are just a handful of this year’s participants who will transform Chelsea into a delight for the senses. If you’re lucky enough to be in London next week, don’t miss this singular and quintessentially British event!

For complete information on Chelsea in Bloom, please refer to the event website: www.chelseainbloom.co.uk.

This year, Jaquet Droz are celebrating their 275th anniversary, and they have published a book, 'The Génie Jaquet-Droz,' which tells the story of Pierre Jaquet-Droz and his creations, which included automata, singing birds, and of course, superb watches. He created the asymmetric dial with the figure-of-eight layout, the Grande Seconde, and met countless members of European royalty and aristocracy – as well as cultural giants including philosopher Jean-Jacques Rousseau. The maison have also marked their anniversary with a remarkable piece, with links to Pierre's historic singing bird clocks. We spoke to Thiébaut Bentz, head of marketing at Jaquet Droz, and Stéphanie Kirkorian, PR and events manager.

"We began the bird saga in 1910, with a hand-painted dial. In 2011, the bird was in relief. This year, we are presenting an automated bird, in a minute repeater: the bird not only moves, but also sings." Thiébaut Bentz showed us this amazing piece, with a beautifully-crafted songbird. "We have built a new, patented movement, which adapts the singing cage bird to a wristwatch."

This piece shown at Baselworld was a prototype; it cheeps the time to perfection on command, but it will be launched on the market in about another year, after a few final refinements and industrialization. The cheeping sound is produced by a tiny cylinder bellows, visible in the very modern movement.

How long have you been working on this piece?

"From the first idea to this prototype, it has taken two years, so in total, it will take three or four years. Five engineers have been working full time for two years, and at Jaquet Droz, where there are just 50 people, this is a major commitment."

Stéphanie Kirkorian continued the story. "In the area where Pierre Jaquet-Droz was working, Le Locle, there were lots of birds in the forests, such as bluetits, and so this watch provides a link with the history and the crafts expertise. Working at this level, it is important to have an internal atelier d'art."

Do you have problems in finding the crafts people?

"Of course, it is hard to find them, and it's also hard to keep them. They have to feel compatible, they have to like what they are doing, and at the end of the day, they are artists, and they have their own character... At Jaquet Droz, we train them ourselves, step by step after they have left their college. They have to feel part of a family, an experience, and have the feeling that they are doing something positive and useful, so that they are proud of having participated in the project. Take The Loving Butterfly, for example. This is an anniversary piece, with the beautifully-painted butterfly and the hand-engraved caseback."

Pierre's Grande Seconde design is still in your catalogues...

"Oh yes, it has been a favourite from 1785. It is the iconic Jaquet Droz, that we made in a steel version 2 years ago, and now we have introduced some new features, such as this blue piece, with Geneva stripe decoration. The steel version is now our best-selling piece, with an entrance price of CHF 9,000 for the men's version, and just under CHF 8,000 for the women's model. Of course, the Grande Seconde was originally a pocket watch; we still make two, and they are coming back into fashion, particularly in the U.K. It goes well with a smart suit."

Do you see an increase in interest in your watches from women?

"A few years ago, our breakdown was 80% men, 20% women, today we have 60% men and 40% women. This year we have launched a totally new women’s collection."

Stéphanie described one of the new models. "This is a small complication. The dial is in mother-of-pearl, in a 39-millimetre case. Hours are shown in the window, and there is a single minutes hand. By pressing the button, you change the city displayed, along with the hour."

"This is something completely new, a development of the Grande Seconde shape, with a dome-shaped dial and, in the top part of the '8,' a ball bearing in mother-of-pearl ball or another precious stone. It rolls, and you can't help but play with it, it's like an anti-stress game! We have invented a new pastime..."

Jaquet Droz watches are often remarkable for their practicality, with dials whose extreme simplicity conceal the superb movement underneath. Thiébaut showed us another new model, the Grande Heure GMT.

"This has another small complication. There is a single crown, that is pulled out to set the second time zone, and again to change both the local time and the other time zone. When the two time zones correspond, the hands are superimposed to form a two-colour motif. You see that there is no minute hand, so that it shows the time to the nearest five minutes."

Stéphanie said, "That's why we call it the 'luxury of time,' because it means that the user can afford to luxury to be five minutes late without it mattering!"

"But don't use it for Baselworld appointments!" said Thiébaut. "Here, you have to be on time!"

Read more:
Baselworld 2013, an overview

The highlight is undoubtedly the piece with the bee and the spider. Superficially, it looks simple: the bee's wings form the minute hand, read on the twelve pink gold cabochons on the bezel; the spider shows the hours, close to the centre of the dial. But it's more than this. The spider and bee follow irregular courses around the dial, more like a zig-zag than a circle, creating the effect of the spider waiting at the centre of the web, while the bee flits around, boldly approaching the spider and actually brushing one of its legs with a wingtip, only to escape again. A delicate story, narrated with brilliant craftsmanship, with mother-of-pearl and diamonds set marquetry-style onto the dial. The movement was developed specially for Chaumet, a Swiss-made automatic calibre CP12V-XII.

The other pieces in the collection are equally decorative. One features lovely butterflies in agate or blue-tinted mother-of-pearl; others are based on Escher-like compositions of butterflies; in one, dragonflies are beautifully painted in enamel; and in a mysteriously romantic composition, a nocturnal scene is silhouetted against the full moon, with a snail, a dragonfly and a caterpillar sculpted from mother-of-pearl.

The bee has long been a favourite motif for Chaumet. The maison was founded by Marie-Etienne Nitot in 1780, and he worked for Marie-Antoinette and later for Napoleon. The bee, symbol of immortality and resurrection, was adopted by Napoleon to provide a link to the sovereigns of France: golden bees were discovered in the tomb of Childeric I, founder of the Merovingian dynasty in 457.

Read more:
Chaumet and its tiaras

"Yes, perhaps it's the best job in the world. How did I get here? I trained as a watchmaker, and I took a degree in engineering. Now, every day, you arrive in the office, you don't know what will happen. It's really interesting."

The partnership with Mercedes, it looks like a marriage made in heaven?

"I have to say that I wasn't all that interested in motor sports, but then the guys from Mercedes started to explain the details, how they do research, and how they guarantee the quality of all those parts. It's just the same as we do. Those parallels, those similarities made the project fascinating right from the start."

If you had to single out one watch, which would you choose?

"Maybe the Carbon, I really like the design, it's an interesting product, with all those design elements. I really like it."

The Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance has a case made in the same material as used in racing cars, fibre matting soaked in epoxy resin and then cured at high temperature and pressure. This creates a tough, Formula One look, enhanced by the five screws used to hold the case together, and the rubber strap with yellow or red stitching. But it's not just about looks: the in-house 80110-calibre movement has a shock-absorption system that enables it to withstand extreme acceleration. It is a perfect watch for racing drivers. The rotor, visible through the sapphire caseback, recalls pistons in its shape.

Is it a difficult design issue to reconcile the brand tradition with new elements, such as the motor sports content in this year's Ingenieur collection?

"We always look back to what we have done in the past, so that we can keep the heritage and the DNA. Our product remains a mechanical watch, and we've been working on this technology for a hundred years. On the other hand, we try to look to the future."

How does the design process actually work?

"At the beginning there is a small team that develops the initial idea, and then it expands through production and marketing, until almost the whole of IWC is involved. I personally work on movements. That process takes from two to four years from concept to development and production. If the new model uses an existing movement, creating the case takes from six to twelve months. If we start a new movement, we go to the design department and we try to find the best dial layout to express the movement. The two things, dial aesthetics and movement, go hand in hand, lots of discussions over a cup of coffee."

Are patents an important part of development?

"It is not our goal to create a huge number of patents. Everyone can take a look inside, and in five years everyone can use the new idea. We are just interested in creating great solutions. For example, in this collection, the most complex movement is the Constant Force Tourbillon, with a Breguet overcoil. It has a constant amplitude over two days."

The constant-force mechanism increases precision, but needs extra torque. This is offered by the two barrels. The power reserve display indicates how much of the remarkable 96-hour reserve is left. It also has a phases of the moon display, which is so beautifully detailed that the moon's characteristic craters and areas of darker grey can be distinguished. A countdown scale shows the number of days remaining until the next full moon. It is one of the larger watches in the collection, at 46 millimetres.

How is the market developing in terms of the size of watches?

"There is a move away from outsize watches. We have reduced the Ingenieur by 2 millimetres. There is still a lot of interest in big watches, but these are less accessible to certain sections of the market, such as women."

Will you be making watches specifically for women?

"No, they can wear our men's watches! They look really great on a female wrist!"

How have things changed at IWC over the years that you have been there?

"I've been at IWC since 2005. Seven years ago, we were not so well-known worldwide. By means of our products and marketing success, we became larger and larger. Processes changed, and partnerships changed. Today with AMG and Formula 1, it's at a different level. We're moving forwards, getting better all the time, accumulating experience."

Is there another watch in the collection that you particularly like?

"I love the Ingenieur Chronograph Racer, particularly the one with the rubber strap. And the Silver Arrow, the Silberpfeil, which has the same movement."

Gaumann's enthusiasm for the Chrono Racer watch (shown in the photo above) is understandable. It has one of he most efficient movements manufactured by IWC, the 89361 calibre, and a beautiful dial, in which the chronograph hours and minutes are combined in a subdial at 12 o'clock. People who own this watch often use the stopwatch as a second time zone, because the chronograph doesn't absorb more energy when it is running. It also features the flyback function (good for timing pitstops and then the next lap) and small hacking seconds. It looks fantastic, with its unique design, and the sporty styling of case, pushers and strap.

We stepped out of the interview room, and I took a photo of Thomas in front of a vintage Mercedes Silver Arrow. A car whose deceptively simple design has made it a classic. Just like the brilliant 2013 Ingenieur watches.

Read more:
Interview with Christian Knoop, IWC
Interview with Carlo Ceppi, IWC

Anyone who has been in Milan long enough will tell you that it is a city full of secrets off the tourist radar. Schreiber Gioelli is one of them. Established more than 60 years ago, the company is currently managed by Giacomo Schreiber, the founder's grandson, working alongside his father Federico who is a renowned goldsmith with over three decades of experience. Designed like a jewel box, the boutique showcases the iconic jewellery collections inspired by the daisy – the flower of the Schreibers' insignia – expertly crafted in precious golds and gemstones. For antique jewellery lovers, Pennisi is the place to go in Milan. Founded by Giovanni Pennisi in 1971, the company today is run by Guido, Emanuele and Gabriele. At the boutique, you will find everything from Art Deco treasures to 19th century French jewellery pieces. Stunning objets d’art also attract antique collectors from around the world.

Florence is a city where the arts are very much alive today as they were centuries ago. Tommaso Pestelli has been continuing his family’s tradition in goldsmith craftsmanship and restoration since 1908. At his boutique, not only can you see his jewellery creations inspired by the late 19th century and early 20th century styles, you can also have your own unique piece created, or have a metal object completely restored. His antique-style objets d’art for the home make a unique souvenir by which you can remember Florence as a city that is home to numerous artisans like Pestelli.

Hausmann & Co., with three boutiques in Rome, has witnessed the Eternal City's transformations since 1794, when Giovanni Romani Ricci founded the company and later sold it to the watchmaker Ernst Hausmann. Today, Hausmann & Co.’s original jewellery collections – the ‘Infinite’ line inspired by the numerical sign; the classic ‘1794’, or the innovative ‘HC1’ featuring carbon fibre – are not to be missed. Carrying on its tradition as a watchmaker, Hausmann & Co. also offers its own timepiece line, as well as a wide selection of haute horlogerie brands.

Italy is full of history, from its art and architecture to cuisine and music; whether you are here on vacation or business, you are surrounded by it everywhere you go. We hope that you will take time to go visit some local jewellers and discover another facet of this charming country.

The last year we saw you creating a leather collection for local brand Punto, a resort collection, a brand new perfume and finally the exclusive jewellery collection for Zela. Are we missing anything?
I know how it looks but I love living life to the fullest, adding something to my life and to the lives of those around me. I feel euphoric when I take another step towards creating something new for my brand because I started it from scratch.

You’ve turned your passion for fashion into a lucrative business. We know that people from all around Turkey knock on your door for their wedding or prom night. Who are these Siren Ertan women? What kind of a character do you envision as you’re designing your gowns?
My ambition is to create for an elegant, chic, impressive, feminine and yet strong woman who I always want to see reflected in my clients, and of course to make them happy. I believe that it’s more important for someone to dress in line with their age, status and the occasion, rather than based on the whims of fashion. That’s how I approach a client: I highlight the most beautiful parts of her body, hide its imperfections and create a gown that fits her perfectly in colour, proportion and style. I’m inspired by my client and focus solely on her. For sure, style is an important aspect while designing for someone.

What does style mean to you? Share one of your design secrets with us.
Style definitely adds value to a person. The most important elements of what we call style are its continuity and adaptability. That’s why I say it should come from within. If you are worried, it’s OK to get professional help!

You named both your perfume and your haute couture brand Istanbul. Since you are from Izmir, I believe Istanbul is not your first love but still it’s captivating enough for you to keep right next to your name. What’s your relationship with Istanbul?
Istanbul is the city that I love, that nurtures and enriches me. I never complain about it and always notice the silver lining in anything negative that comes my way. Having said that, I’m also proud of my Izmir roots; it’s made me who I am today. I named my brand Siren Ertan ISTANBUL because this city gave me my beloved husband and my business.

Since our sense of smell is directly connected to our survival instinct, each scent we smell interacts with our brain and our memories. What does your perfume evoke? And how have you come to create it?
I believed that creating a perfume was the right move for my brand, and I also loved Patrick Süskind’s novel ‘Perfume’! My perfume has light, fruity scents such as apple and fig in the top notes; Madagascar vanilla flower, Grasse jasmine, Guaiac tree, cedar tree and patchouli in its heart notes and amber, white musk, caramel and sandal in its base notes. It’s basically made for my warm-hearted, attractive and feminine ideal of a woman. The scent was created in the Grasse region of France, and is now sold at select Tekin Acar stores.

How do you think the international fashion world sees Turkish fashion?
I’m often saddened to think that we are gigantic producers of textile and we have so much potential to grow but we are somehow not achieving some crucial goals, such as creating a renowned international brand. Wrong policies, personal interests and lack of trust in design were some of the factors that contributed to this slowness but I think now we are coming on stronger than ever. Even though Turkish fashion is not a hot topic in the international arena, successful designers such as Rifat Ozbek, Dice Kayek and Bora Aksu have represented us with distinction.

What’s your latest project? What should we expect from you in 2013?
I’m acting as a consultant to Zela in their design department, and informing them about women’s jewellery preferences and expectations. This 8-month process gave birth to an exclusive collection named Siren Ertan ISTANBUL for Zela.

Siren Ertan ISTANBUL
Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No: 5/3 D:6
Nişantaşı, Istanbul
Tel.+90 212 234 23 31

Accommodation is one of the first things to think about, and charm is the key word as Alberta La Grup searches the ideal places for you. You can stay at country houses, pazos, Indian palaces, inns and unique locations that offer both history and comfort. If you think that hiking is all you will be doing, think again, because the agency will plan your journey according to your personal fitness level and interests. In different regions, you can experience everything from cider tastings, guided tours of fishing villages and dairy farms, see performances in honour of the St. James Holy Year, and admire the sunset from great cliffs and stunning beaches that stretch far into the horizon.

One of the best examples of the Camino de Santiago is The Northern Route – Camino del Norte – which goes from Santander to Santiago. Besides flying you into northern Spain through Barcelona and Madrid international airports, Alberta La Grup also provides a private jet service in partnership with NetJets. After private transfer from the airport, you can enjoy three hours with a personal shopping service to get everything you need. You will be given the complete itinerary of The Northern Route, with a list of recommended activities and must-sees along the beautiful coastal itinerary. After settling down in comfortable accommodation, the next morning a champion’s breakfast prepared with local ingredients is served and you can fuel up with a daily picnic along the way. Contrary to most backpacking trips, with Alberta La Grup’s itinerary you will have really good food. You can enjoy a wonderful lunch and dinner at restaurants, pubs, cider houses and venues off the beaten track.

More wonderful surprises await you, such as winery visits, a tour of Romanesque monasteries, castles and caves, rafting, and even a game of golf on an 18-hole course. If you are ever worried about being isolated out there, don’t be, because a remote personal concierge is at your service. If you prefer to travel the route by bicycle, the organization can provide bicycle transfer as well. At the end of your day, why not enjoy a sport or therapeutic massage in the comfort of your hotel room? “But what about my luggage?” you may ask. That is the last of your worries, as the agency will take your bags from one destination to the next, so all you have to do is have fun.

While every step of the Camino de Santiago itinerary can be personalized, Alberta La Grup’s Suite 501 formula for a great experience remains unchanged: unique ideas, exclusivity and maximum comfort ensure the journey of a lifetime.

For a 5-star experience of the Camino de Santiago, please contact:
Alberta La Grup Lifestyle Business
Tel. +34 93 1173 356
www.albertalagrup.com

Stephan Winkelmann, CEO of Lamborghini, said, "What really makes the difference is technical innovation. Every year we invest 20% of revenue into research. In addition, we have an ethical approach to our environment and our people. We aim at becoming CO2-neutral by 2015. We support the local area around our base at Sant'Agata Bolognese. We are convinced that Lamborghini has to remain a dream, for all the brand's fans, but we are also aware of our responsibilities."

Raffaele Porro, Director of Communications and External Relations at Lamborghini, described the 50th Anniversary Grand Tour. "This is the largest ever gathering of cars from the 'House of the Raging Bull,' with 350 supercars from all over the world. A hundred Lambos arrived last night and are already at the Castello Sforzesco in Milan. Others are sill arriving. By tomorrow morning, 8 May 2013, there will be 350, for a total of 190,000 horsepower. If they were all put together, they would form a 4-kilometre queue. They are from 29 countries, of which the United Kingdom has the most numerous representation, followed by Switzerland."

The Grand Tour will take the cars from Milan to Rome, and then to Bologna, and finally to the home of Lamborghini, Sant'Agata Bolognese. A concours d'elegance will take place in Bologna, where the best of show will receive a Blancpain watch.

Blancpain is in fact the main sponsor for the event, though the two companies have been involved in a partnership for more than four years. Alain Delamuraz, Vice President and Head of Marketing at Blancpain, said, "Our companies share the same DNA, the same values. Manufacturing a quality car, just like a watch, needs long-term thinking. Just consider that the time from concept to the prototype of a new watch is about five or six years, comparable to the development of a car. Like Lamborghini, we do as much as possible in-house. The process requires careful handcrafting as well as intellectual brilliance: each of our movements is assembled by a single watchmaker. We are committed to our relationship with Lamborghini: they have never had a partnership with another watch brand, and likewise, Blancpain has never had another car brand partner. At the end of the day, for both of us, respect, authenticity and passion generates emotion. Life is nothing without emotion."

An example of the way in which the partnership with Lamborghini has filtered into Blancpain's products can be seen in the latest addition to the L-evolution collection, the Ref. 8886F with flyback split-seconds chronograph and large date. Carbon fibre is used on the bezel, caseback and dial, and colours are black and red. The 8 o'clock pusher is reminiscent of a fuel cap. The column-wheel chronograph movement, Calibre 69F9, has 409 parts and 44 jewels, with a 40-hour power reserve. The split-second chronograph is a beautiful and demanding complication, so that intermediate times can be read. The split-second (rattrapante) hand is superimposed onto the chronograph sweep seconds hand, and when the split second function is activated by the pusher at 8 o'clock, the rattrapante hand stops to enable the intermediate time to be read, while the sweep seconds hand continues running. A second press on the pusher enables the split-second hand to catch up with the sweep seconds hand.

The Lamborghini-Blancpain story is built on solid foundations and shared goals. As Stephan Winkelmann concluded, "A luxury brand can never be a follower. We must always lead from the front – in design, in technology and, of course, in quality standards. Lamborghini builds extreme, uncompromising and Italian super sports cars. Quality is the ultimate value in our business – and the decisive basis for our success. We want to achieve the absolute satisfaction of every single one of our customers – a Lamborghini driver should be able to feel proud every day.”

Below, some more images from the event:

Read more:
Parmigiani Fleurier and the Bugatti Vitesse
Watch highlights at Baselworld 2013

To find out, we will have to go back to the beginning of the 20th century in the town of Gilan, where the maison’s founders and brothers Muharrem and Ferhan’s great grandmother worked as the head seamstress for the Ottoman pashas in Turkey. Her passion for her craft passed on through the generations. In 1980, the Gilan brothers opened their wholesale jewellery store in Bursa. As they turned to Istanbul – an East-meets-West melting pot rich with Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman civilizations - for inspiration, their jewellery designs took off.

The Heritage Collection is the maison’s signature. Pearl earrings set with exclusive rose-cut diamonds; a swirl of sapphires, tanzanites and white diamonds in the ‘Dancing on the Bosphorus’ ring; a pair of pendant earrings with the same theme featuring rubies and diamonds dangling from a swirling sapphire design. What gives the jewellery pieces theirdistinguished look is Gilan’s500-year-old jewellery making technique. A diamond is first set on silver, which is then bound to yellow gold, finished with an engraving. The result is a soulfullook that is at once glamorous and timeless. A variation on this collection, the Contemporary Heritage Collection, exalts this age-old jewellery-making technique in sleek, modern designs. Every piece speaks volumes about Gilan’s heritage: enduring, precious yet perfectly contemporary at the same time.

The Journey to Dreams Collection is a celebration of the Silk Road, evoking exoticism, mystique and emotions. The Elegant Feathers ring, brooch and necklace are so vivid that they seems to take flight, set with sapphires, emeralds, savourites and white diamonds. The Dance of the Pheasants necklace is a lively portrait of the birds at play, where the scenery – adorned with sapphires, rubies, coloured diamonds and savorites- literallyspills out of the pendant. A butterfly rests on a branch in the delicate Butterfly and Mulberry Tree necklace, dazzling with pink sapphires, emeralds, coloured diamonds and white diamonds.

Gilan’s dreamlike jewellery is every bit a reality as they are genuine inspirations and a nod to tradition. Its expert metalwork accentuates extravagant gemstones in unique designs, as every creation captures the imagination and heritage comes alive.

It is a watch that looks like no other, and it is a watch that is impossible to depict with a photograph. Its principal feature is a tiny sculpture that can be seen through the powerful lens in the crown. It possesses a sort of mysterious magic, like that of a hologram or those 3-D prints that were all the rage a decade ago. A whole new world opens up within the thickness of the watch.

"Art Piece One is a co-creation between Forsey, Greubel, and artist Willard Wigan, who makes microsculptures small enough to fit in the eye of a needle. Robert met Wigan, and they decided to work together, we providing the watchmaking expertise, he the microsculpture. The earliest concept sketches were made on serviettes at Café Royal in London when they met."

This needs a bit of explanation. Photographs just can't do justice to the scale at which Wigan works. At SIHH, a sculpture of an eagle was exhibited, mounted in the eye of a needle. Not a large needle, an ordinary small needle, the sort that drives you crazy when you try to thread it. The needle was shown under a microscope so that you could see the detail and beauty of the piece. To the naked eye it looks like... well, imagine a millimetre of thread... How does he do it?

"Wigan works like a diver. When he works, he calms his body and holds his breath. He ensures that each move that he makes on the sculpture is made between heartbeats." Only one or two pieces will be made every year. The prototype has a sailing ship, while a successive model will be fitted with a tiny, tiny pair of scissors. The sculpture is mounted on a blued metal bridge positioned at 9 o'clock, with a lens in the crown that enlarges the microsculpture by 23 times. The watch is designed to use natural light to best advantage, so that when you look into the crown, you see the sculpture, floating mysteriously. The result is extraordinary: it seems to open up a whole new virtual world. The optical system alone took at least three years' development work.

As Angela Landone said, this concept is more about art than telling the time. In fact there are no hands or hour indices. "There is a window in which a disc shows hours and minutes on two scales, when you press a button, but otherwise, what you see in the window is the name of the watch."

The other important new watch exhibited by Greubel & Forsey at SIHH 2013 is the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain. "In this model we have a double 30-degree tourbillon, in which the internal cage with the spiral spring is inclined by 30 degrees, improving precision. The internal cage revolves in one minute, the external in 4 minutes, with scales that measure the minute and 4-minute units. The watch has two superimposed double barrels, which provide a 120-hour power reserve. This is the period guaranteed for optimum performance, even though in actual fact the watch will continue running for longer. There are only few watches that have such a long power reserve. Our models normally have a 72 power reserve, except for those with quadruple tourbillon which absorb more power, and have a 50-hour power reserve. The dial is very three-dimensional, with components designed to reveal the mechanics of the watch, even though it is not skeletonized. This watch, which will have a special strap, will be in boutiques in about three or four months from now."

We asked Angela to describe the marque's retail network. "We have about 35 points of sale, in Europe, America, Latin America and Asia, but you have to remember that we produce only about 100 pieces per year. Stephen Forsey and a colleague of mine visit the boutiques to explain the watches – in practice they run courses for the boutique staff. In Milan, for example, they are sold by Fratelli Pisa. Often, fairs of this type produce orders that are fulfilled during the rest of the year."
So, a fairly unconventional approach to watchmaking. "Oh yes," agrees Angela, "you know, artists are often a bit crazy. It's a good thing! We need more crazy people like this."

Read more:
SIHH 2013 highlights

Take Dior, for example, who this season delights with its gorgeous child-sized outfits in tulle, silk and cotton with matching accessories, masterfully mirroring the label’s sartorial skills. From the rose dragée on a girl’s jacket to the satin bow tie or braces in a boy's look, every item in these lines is perfect, worthy of a nod of approval from Christian Dior himself.

Gucci, on the children's fashion scene since 2010, takes this season into full bloom with charming creations featuring the maison’s iconic Flora print. However this is just one of their many trademarks available for the younger fashionistas, who can rest assured that they will be able to choose their favourite from the horsebit, double ‘G’ print or the web motif, in hats, shoes, bags and backpacks.

Another fashion lover’s ‘must-have’ is Burberry’s iconic trench. This timeless piece has recently been spotted worn by Romeo Beckham (who seems to fashionably following in his parent’s footsteps). A toddler-size trench coat with a pair of Burberry plaid rain boots is enough to make any mom weak at the knees! However we suggest you view the entire spring/summer collection.

And of course, who could forget ‘l’enfant terrible' of fashion?’ Each season Jean Paul Gaultier, who since 2009 has included a collection for ‘enfants’ in his design family, proposes his colourful and utterly creative designs. Not to mention his striped white and navy motif, because after all, who could resist a small but immaculately-dressed sailor? Or any beautifully-dressed toddler for that matter?
 

Most visitors’ first stop is the beautifully cobbled Lean Senado Square, and the charming garden within the Leal Senado Building. Stroll past Macau’s Cathedral, St Dominic’s Church and along the narrow streets of the old market area towards the Ruins of St Paul, the façade of the former Church of Mater Dei and symbol of Macau. High above is the Gaia Fortress, home to the South China Sea’s oldest lighthouse, while nearby are the European Camoes Garden and its neighbour the Protestant Cemetery. Lou Loc Lim Garden is beautifully landscaped in typical Chinese style, while on the coast the ancient A-Ma Temple is inspired by Confucianism, Taoism, Buddhism and folklore.

Taipa Village is a pleasure to explore, with narrow lanes running between the colonial homes. For cafes and shops selling typical Macanese, Portuguese and Chinese pastries and snacks, make a bee-line for Rua de Cunha and the central square. On the third island, Coloane Village’s quiet streets and cobbled squares are home to the Chapel of St Francis Xavier, local seafood restaurants and dried fish stalls. Follow your nose to Lord Stow’s Bakery and its famous egg tarts.

Entertainment
Top of the list has to be The House of Dancing Water, a HK$2 billion Franco Dragone production that traces the story of a local fisherman through spectacular scenes with a huge cast that performs acrobatics, dance and death-defying diving.

The opposite side of the Cotai Strip, the Venetian-Macao-Resort-Hotel is home to the Cotai Arena and the Venetian Theatre where singers and bands regularly show, with notable former performers including The Beach Boys and the Shaolin Monks.

No matter what your age, pandas Kai Kai and Xin Xin from Chengdu, gifts from China a decade after the handover, make for an adorable visit at the Macao Giant Panda Pavilion at Seac Pai Van Park in Coloane.

Activities get fast and furious at the Macau Motorsports Club with go-carting and an action-packed afternoon, and the gravity-defying Bungy Jump, Sky Walk and Tower Climb from the Macau Tower on the main island. Bringing the pace down a little, golfers can indulge at the Macau Golf & Country Club or at Caesar’s Golf.

For more information on Macau click here

Chanel, after launching last year’s much-anticipated ‘1932’ collection with 80 high jewellery pieces celebrating the Mademoiselle’s favourite things in life, has now introduced yet another icon: the lion. Coco Chanel’s star sign and favourite animal is majestically featured on two new sautoir necklaces in the collection. One is set with a jawdropping 32-carat yellow diamond in a comet design topped by a rutile quartz lion. The other sautoir necklace, also with a diamond comet, sports a rock crystal lion. Rutile quartz and rock crystal – unexpected materials for high jewellery – add both visual and tactile interest to the ‘1932’ collection’s newest addition.

Wildlife has been roaming in Boucheron’s kingdom since 1858 when the Parisian jeweller opened its first boutique on 26 Place Vendome. The serpent, along with other creatures, has been a Boucheron icon since the late 19th century and animal design is still one of the maison’s greatest fortés today. From the Cabinet of Curiosities collection, the Hathi white and pink gold ring with an elephant design is a classic. Brown and white diamonds, orange, purple and black sapphires are set in an intricately-figured elephant, which seems to defy gravity. The Cypris ring featuring a pair of white and black diamond swans takes flight with its wingspanning silhouette. Boucheron’s playful side is evident in a whimsical tiger ring where the big cat perches its paws on your finger, with its tail wrapped around it. White and black diamonds recreate the animal’s distinctive stripes, while oversized emerald eyes add a fun touch to this fascinating jewellery piece.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ take on nature with its dazzling ‘Palais de la Chance’ collection is full of surprises. Swallows, storks, butterflies and creatures from the zodiac set come alive in bright palettes and unexpected silhouettes. The Hirondelles set is a nod to Art Deco, celebrating shades of green with a combination of emeralds, tsavorite garnets and chrysoprase beads. Also with an Art Deco-inspired silhouette is the Moments de Chance set featuring black and white butterflies, one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most enduring symbols. The long necklace, detachable clip and earrings shine with diamonds, white cultured pearls and stunning onyx beads, in a glamorous, black-and-white design.

Cartier’s Naturellement collection celebrates the animal kingdom by showcasing some of the jungle’s most recognizable wildlife. A panther – entirely set in diamond with iconic emerald eyes – lie lazily on a platinum earring where white diamonds contrast with black onyx for a dramatic effect. Equally stunning is a pair of panther head earrings, with a cascade of diamonds flowing elegantly from the feline’s neck. The Naturellement collection takes flight with its aviary species. The parrot is depicted in over ten different designs - some regal, some simply adorable. Colourful gemstones exalt the bird’s beauty: cushion-cut blue sapphires, purple sapphires, emerald drops… Peacocks, snakes, tigers, imaginary birds and dragons are crafted in precious golds and dazzling gemstones. Their vividness inspires new passion for sophisticated animal jewellery design.

Mystical animals have always spurred man's imagination, fantastical creatures that are often omnipotent and represent super human strength and wisdom, and Carrera y Carrera chose the most majestic of all for their Cìrculos de Fuego collection: the dragon. The pieces in this collection are veritable pieces of art in miniature and sculpted impeccably thanks to the unique savoir-faire that distinguishes Carrera y Carrera. You will be seduced by the extraordinary detailing of this magical and fortuitous beast as crafted by the venerable Spanish maison. Four dragon heads with diamond eyes converge in a stunning ring where they seem to guard the precious sapphire at its center, and in other pieces the contrast between polished and matte gold make the animal come alive. The dragon is of course also a symbol of good fortune, and who wouldn't feel wonderfully lucky to wear Carrera y Carrera's superb creations?

Garrard offers a slightly more abstract interpretation of animal-inspired design with its Feather collection. The motif seems to take on a life of its own, appearing in different widths and lengths on bracelets, earrings, rings, pendant and collars. The fascinating design combines sapphire, diamond, Tahitian pearl, opal, amethyst, chrysoprase, tsavorite and spinel with yellow, white and blackened gold for visual depth and textural variety. A bird-like creature spreads its dark wings; a ring of feathers that look like a wreath from afar creates an elegant necklace… Nature is never what it seems.

Animal-inspired jewellery offers a new dimension where centuries-old craftsmanship unleashes its power with imaginative silhouettes and the creative use of diverse gemstones: elegant, fanciful, simply exuberant.

There were some remarkable new products both from mainstream brands and from the independent watchmakers. There was a good feeling about business, with many companies reporting growing sales figures. For many maisons, the key to success is connecting to the Asian markets, particularly China and Russia, with interesting developments from Singapore and Brazil.

There were some important anniversaries, such as the 275th of Jaquet Droz, Certina's 130th, and the 50th of the Tag Heuer Carrera. For the 60th anniversary of the Blancpain classic diving watch Fifty Fathoms, CEO Marc A. Hayek (in the photo below), himself a keen scuba diver, described the story and introduced the new versions.

There were many technical innovations, wonderful for geeks but also artfully translated into stunning looks. While Omega are excelling in keeping magnetism outside the movement, presenting the powerfully antimagnetic Seamaster Aqua Terra 15,000 Gauss, Breguet have moved in the other direction, actually introducing two magnets into the case. In the Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727 (below), the balance wheel pivot is not held by the usual ruby bearings, but by two powerful micromagnets, which provide virtually zero friction, as well as excellent shock-resistance and precision.

Many brands are forging ahead with new alloys and ceramics. Rolex actually refines its own gold and so is constantly researching new alloys related to its proprietary Everose, which retains its pink colour more durably than normal gold-copper alloys. Omega's Sedna gold combines gold, copper and palladium to create a unique hue. Ebel presented a greenish gold tint for its latest watches for women. Burberry, exhibiting at the Basel show for the first time, presented a 50-piece limited edition of the Britain for women in its 'Trench Gold' case colour, a perfect match for the brand's signature garment fabrics. Shown below, craftsmanship on The Britain by Burberry.

Other trends in visual design include extensive areas of irregularly-set gems – we're talking about women's watches – creating a glittering pavé that is unique to each watch. The same sort of diffuse sparkle is created by Milanese watch bracelets, which are making a strong return. De Grisogono presented watches (shown below) in which the diamonds extended outwards from the bezel in a flexible mat which rippled gently against the skin.

Let's look at some examples.

The colour of the year is definitely blue. Rolex featured a blue-dial version of their classic Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, along with other bright colours, cherry, green, cognac, chocolate as well as rhodium.

Omega's new Seamaster Aqua Terra models (below), now with day and date windows at 12 and 6 o'clock respectively, include a version with a deep blue dial, and likewise its lovely Planet Ocean 'Good Planet.'

Jeanrichard's Terrascope and Aquascope models (Aquascope in the photo below) also include an ultramarine-toned dial.

Glashütte Original's version of the colour is midnight blue, in its new variants of the Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date.

When it comes to sheer watchmaking brilliance, we are spoilt for choice. Girard-Perregaux have created not just a new movement, but a new regulator, replacing the classic lever escapement with a very thin blade fixed at either end and snapping across from one side to another, like a business card held between thumb and finger – which intriguingly was precisely what gave the watchmaker the original idea in 2008. Five years of development later, the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement L.M. is something truly different, a design for which there is no benchmark.

Harry Winston's new products were a rich treasure trove, amidst the luscious beauty of the Premier Feathers collection, the diamond-setting brilliance of Premier Glacier, and the originality of Opus XIII. I particularly loved the Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hour (shown below), in which the tourbillon is suspended from steel bridges without any apparent mechanical connection to the rest of the timepiece. The jumping hours window is never obscured by the minute hand, which is a small red triangle that revolves around the dial.

Blancpain is to the Carrousel what Breguet is to the tourbillon, and the Carrousel Répétition Minutes Chronographe Flyback is a very beautiful piece of haute horlogerie that combines the flying carrousel at 6 o'clock with a minute repeater, operated by a slider at 9 o'clock, and a flyback chronograph, with column wheel and vertical coupling clutch. The 546 components of the in-house 2358-calibre movement are housed inside a 45-millimetre red gold case. The chronograph minutes and seconds are shown by means of centre-sweep hands, read off the inside and outside of the chapter ring, which enables the maison to open up the dial and expose the amazingly beautiful movement.

In their anniversary year, Jaquet Droz returned to the legend of founder Pierre, who became famous for his automata and singing birds. The Charming Bird combines tradition with up-to-the-minute looks, with a beautifully-sculpted bird that turns, flaps its wings, moves head and tail, and opens its beak, chirping audibly by means of a piston-driven bellows system. A masterpiece, available in a limited series of 28.

Glashütte Original continue the development of their superb PanoLunarTourbillon series, with the classic asymmetric dial framed in a 40 millimetre red gold case, and the flying tourbillon highlighted by the silver dial.

We cannot end this article without mentioning Longines, a brand that has been based in Saint-Imier in Switzerland since 1832, and has consolidated a leadership position in the CHF 900-3,000 sector. In our interview, CEO Walter von Känel said that he knows that he will always sell as many classic watches in steel and gold, with white or silver dial, as he makes. This year's HydroConquest collection includes the de rigueur blue-dial model, but, as they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Some more images from the show:

Above, Tony Axelzon of timetotalk.se

Read more: 
IWC, an interview with Christian Knoop
Barbara Falcomer of Montblanc Italy
Giampaolo Ziviani, Audemars Piguet in Italy
What your watch says about you

For nearly 40 years, Gaultier has been creating high fashion that plays on pop culture, ignoring any traditional aesthetic restrictions of the bourgeoisie. Over the years, Gaultier has created iconic styles like Madonna’s cone bra from her 1990 Blond Ambition tour, and his brand’s signature mariner stripes. But even before the famous cone bra, Gaultier chose a luxurious Parisian address as the headquarters of his brand, a space that still today embodies all that is Gaultier.

In 1986, Jean Paul Gaultier’s very first atelier and boutique were established at 6 rue Vivienne in the second arrondissement. located within the Galerie Vivienne, a classified historical monument and winding covered passageway brimming with restaurants and specialty shops. Today, this space is the home of the designer’s haute-couture archives and stunning two-storey boutique.

Stocking the entire men and women’s ready-to-wear collections, including accessories, perfume, and make-up, the boutique was created by famous designer Philippe Starck. The Lucite and crystal racks serve as perfect displays for the carefully arranged collections, allowing the bold colours of Gaultier’s designs to contrast against the clean white space. The high ceilings and mirrored walls draw the eye in and up, towards the grand staircase, which leads to the second floor.

From the second floor, shoppers have a private view onto the beautiful Galerie Vivienne, and the private dressing area. At the Vivienne store, Gaultier offers personal shopping services including tailoring and private appointment bookings at the couture showroom located in the third arrondissement. Should you prefer to view the latest ready-to-wear or couture collection in the privacy of your hotel room, the boutique staff will happily arrange a private trunk show.

Jean Paul Gaultier
6 Rue Vivienne, 75002
Tel. +33 1 4286 0505

How did you decide to be a fashion designer?
I never studied fashion design in school. Growing up I always loved dressing my sisters and observing what they were wearing. It was so interesting to me to see how they could carry themselves differently depending on what they wore. In 1991, I moved to Damascus to study Visual Communications at the College of Fine Arts. This immediately led me to experiment in other creative disciplines such as interior and graphic design. I nevertheless always loved fashion, and while there was no specific degree within the field, I decided to design and produce a fashion show which was quite different from what was expected of me. I then moved to Dubai in 2000 and began working as an apprentice to a local fashion designer before beginning Rami Al Ali Couture in 2000.

What are the principal influences in your work?
I love the avant-garde and I love a woman’s inherent femininity. My approach has always been to try and marry the two. I am also interested in history especially by my own Syrian heritage – its art, architecture and handicrafts. I’ve incorporated such influences in my collections in a way which recalls the past while also staying very much so in the contemporary present. When I came to Dubai there was no clear blend of an Eastern and Western sense of femininity; the dresses I saw were either way too Arabic or too European. I am consistently trying to strike a balance between the two.

What does a typical fitting for a client entail?
The client arranges an appointment with me and tells me what she wants. I immediately get a sense of her style, the way she speaks and carries herself – all of which influences the design she wants me to make. She then comes back for several more fittings whereby I show her how the dress is progressing. The women who wear my designs are sophisticated, graceful and very refined – the style of the client should mirror my designs and vice versa.
 

Begin a day touring Le Marais at the Église St. Paul, the recently-restored church built in the 17th century. Heading north into the neighbourhood, cafés and boutiques abound. To be sure you won’t miss any of the best spots for eating, shopping or gallery-hopping, LUXOS and Louis Quatorze, the Marais-based luxury accessories brand, have hand-picked all of the essentials.

Any time of the day, the Marais is full of restaurants that will please even the most discerning of palates. To enjoy Paris as the Parisians do, enjoy an afternoon tea or coffee while overlooking the charming Place des Vosges. Built by King Henri IV in the 17th century, this square was once home to Victor Hugo. Today, it is lined with fine art galleries and quaint cafés.

Some of the Marais’ most talked-about dining options are found in the northern part of the neighbourhood. Enjoy lunch or dinner at Grazie, known both for its authentic pizzas and the killer cocktails created by tattooed mixologist Oscar Quagliarini. If you’re looking for a truly local experience, explore Le Marché des Enfants Rouges for its eclectic array of global cuisine and quaint market-style stands. Another neighbourhood favourite is Nanashi for its trendy Parisian-style bento boxes.

Making waves in the Parisian culinary circle is the Marais’ newest concept restaurant, La Table Ronde, a Parisian supper club. Inspired by American supper clubs, La Table Ronde celebrates contemporary French cuisine in an intimate setting for only 16 diners. Here, some of Paris’ most respected chefs set up for just one night, offering their culinary skills for an exclusive dinner. Some talents who have already graced La Table Ronde include Chef Christopher Hache from the Hôtel de Crillon, Olivier Nasti, and Jérôme Banctel of Senderens. The restaurant is also available for private events upon request.

To enjoy the eclectic essence of the Marais, visit the speciality shops and concept stores that are found throughout the quarter. One of the best-known concept stores in the neighbourhood is Merci, where you can find everything from clothing by Carven to one-of-a-kind gifts, perfumes and housewares. Plus, a portion of the sales from the boutique is given to a sustainable endowment fund for underprivileged children in Madagascar.

Another concept store to visit is The Broken Arm, one of the newest additions to the neighbourhood. Here, the shelves are stocked with art books and magazines, high-end designer clothing, and the in-store café serves speciality coffees by Norwegian coffee masters Solberg & Hansen.

The mecca of designer fashion, L’Eclaireur is one of Paris’ most unique boutiques. Here, at one of their six locations, you’ll find designers like Balmain, Damir Doma, Thom Browne, and Comme des Garçons on the racks.

While shopping in the Marais, be sure to stop in at the airy Louis Quatorze boutique on rue Vieille du Temple. Named after the Sun King, this luxury leather goods maker was founded by the former leather master of the Versailles Palace. After becoming a huge success in Asia, the brand moved back to its roots and is conquering the Parisian luxury scene. Their chic handbags, just like their service, are of impeccable quality.

Designer boutiques such as the cult favourites Surface to Air, French Trotters and Acne also call the Marais home, with stunning boutiques in NoMa. Further south, wander along rue des Francs Bourgeois for candles by Diptyque, perfumes by Acqua di Parma and the Parisian staples, Barbara Bui, The Kooples and Maje. Feel like Grace Kelly while perusing the well-edited racks of designer vintage at Yukiko, one of Paris’ most acclaimed vintage shops with an incredible selection of Chanel bags.

The Marais is also known for its plethora of art galleries, and of course, Paris’ modern art museum, the Centre Georges Pompidou. For a nice mix of emerging and established artists, head to Galerie Perrotin. This contemporary art gallery is located in a majestic old courtyard, and represents art giants Maurizio Cattelan and Takashi Murakami. Another gallery to visit is Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac, known for its extensive group and solo exhibitions often curated by the likes of Hedi Slimane, Robert Wilson and Sofia Coppola. Thanks to these revered galleries specializing in international contemporary artists, the Marais is the nouveau artistic hub of Paris.

Whether in the neighbourhood to explore the winding streets full of history, shop the designer boutiques, add to your growing art collection, or eat like a local, the Marais is the perfect place to discover the new eclectic luxury defining Paris’ up-and-coming identity.

Today, in their 175th anniversary year, Tiffany & Co. present a dazzling new collection, titled ‘Colours of Wonder,’ that majestically showcases the beauty of these rare diamonds. Made up of blossoms of orange, pink, blue, green and of course the label’s signature yellow diamonds, this collection enhances the beauty of these rare gems as well as that of the woman who wears them. Further proof of the fact that the description ‘the King of Diamonds,’ coined for Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1848, is just as fitting today as it always has been.

This south-western city, located in the Aegean region, is known locally and internationally as one of Turkey’s most popular summer holiday destinations with its beautiful beaches, crystal-clear waters, exciting nightlife and tempting restaurant scene.

Bodrum is located on the promontory that juts out between the Gulf of Madalya and the Gulf of Gökova, both of which make an excellent starting point for a sailing trip. Bodrum includes the city centre, as well as several municipalities, the most famous of which are Türkbükü, Yalıkavak, Gümüşlük, Torba and Turgutreis.

What to see
Formerly known as Halicarnassus, Bodrum was once home to the Carians, the Greeks, and the Ottomans before becoming a part of modern Turkey. As such, the region features many ancient ruins that are well worth a visit. These include the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, also known as the Tomb of Mausolus; Iassos, an ancient city of Caria; Euromos, another ancient city in Caria which now contains the ruins of the Temple of Zeus; Miletus, an ancient Greek city where the ruins of the Theatre of Miletus still stand; and Didyma, home to the ruins of Temple of Apollo.

If you’re interested in history, one of the principal attractions of the region is Bodrum's famous castle. Built in the 16th century, the building, previously known as the Castle of St. Peter, now houses the Museum of Underwater Archaeology. The museum’s collection includes a Turkish bath, torture rooms, Byzantine ships, and much more.

Beaches
Although visiting historical locations may be a part of your Bodrum trip, the main activity here is certainly relaxing on the beach and swimming. Travellers will find a variety of options when it comes to picking a beach. Those who want a peaceful getaway even during the peak of summer can enjoy a sense of tranquillity in Akyarlar, whereas those who want to mingle with the jet-setters during a day-long happy hour could go to one of the trendy beaches in Yalıkavak or Türkbükü, such as Xuma, Maki, or Maçakızı.

Xuma Beach Club
Küdür Mevkii, Yalıkavak 
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel. +90 252 3854 775
Maki / Maki 29
Mimoza Sokak No.10, Göltürkbükü 
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel. +90 252 3776 105 
Maçakızı
Narçiçeği Sokak, Göltürkbükü
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel. +90 252 3776 272

Dining and clubbing
Bodrum offers a vibrant restaurant and nightlife scene, with new venues opening up each season. Diners will always find something that caters to their tastes, as the region offers both luxury and budget options, as well as Turkish and international cuisine. Seafood and fish are obvious winners here, and recommended restaurants are Orfoz, Komodor and Mimoza. If you want to experience a local classic, Körfez is a must-try.

Speaking of classics, Küba and Barlar Sokağı have become highlights of Bodrum’s nightlife. One of the latest additions is Billionaire Club, where dancing takes off around midnight and goes on until the small hours of the morning. Ottoflamm is another recent addition where local and international bands take the stage for those who want to enjoy live music. Xuma is known for entertaining with great DJs, while Maki 29, the Bodrum counterpart of Istanbul’s Ulus 29, is a great spot to go for sumptuous food followed by a great party. 



Orfoz
Cumhuriyet Cad. No.177/B
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel.+ 90 252 3164 285
Komodor
Rasat Tepe Sokak 11/A, Merkez
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel.+90 252 3137 555
Mimoza
Sahil, Gümüşlük
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel.+90 252 3943 139

Körfez
Neyzen Tevfik Cad. No.2, Merkez
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel. + 90 252 3138 248

Billionaire Club
Palmali Marina, Yalıkavak
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel.+90 252 3854 356
Ottoflamm
30 Sokak No.3/1, Göltürkbükü
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel. +90 252 3578 011

Where to stay
Plenty of options line the shores, and a charming address is Divan Bodrum in Göltürkbükü, where simplicity, comfort, and luxury are beautifully combined in a boutique-hotel-type format. Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay is a five-star hotel that offers a dramatic view of Bodrum with a location that is just far enough away to offer peace and quiet, but also close enough to offer easy access to the city centre. The Marmara Bodrum is a luxurious option located close to the centre, with a variety of rooms and suites that cater to all hospitality preferences. Mejor Costa in Yalıkavak is a recent addition that guarantees relaxation, with a boutique hotel feel but resort-style amenities.

Divan Bodrum
Keleşharim Caddesi, 22
Göltürkbükü 48483, Bodrum Muğla
Tel. +90 252 3775 601
luxos.com/divan-bodrum

Kempinski Hotel Barbaros Bay
Kızılağaç Köyü Gerenkuyu Mevkii,
Yalıçiftlik 48400, Bodrum
Tel. +90 252 3110 303
luxos.com/kempinski-bodrum

The Marmara Bodrum

Yokuşbaşı Mahallesi 
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel. +90 252 3138 130



Mejor Costa Hotel

Şehit Engin Büyüksöylemez Cad. No.9, Yalıkavak 
Bodrum, Muğla
Tel. +90 252 3853 765

Your absolute go-to application for luxury shopping, so that you will always have all your favourite boutiques’ crucial info at your fingertips, it is the perfect personal assistant for your next trip to London. Thanks to this new app you will be spending a lot more time in the boutiques you love instead of wasting time scouring the internet for precious information! Find out exactly where you need to go, when your shops of choice open and close as well as of course, those all-important phone numbers. And of course, it’s not just limited to boutiques, you can also find the addresses and details of London’s finest department stores on the app along with the lists of the brands they carry.

You can even chose the location of your hotel to be in geographical synch with the shopping streets that matter most to you, thanks to LUXOS’s partnership with the best 5 star hotels in London, which you will also find of course be able to find with ease thanks to the High End Shopper.

Visiting London will become an entirely new experience thanks to our fantastic new app; we wish you many a wonderful stay in this magical city!

"The box is an homage to the fact that they were the first to use wooden boxes. I am a storyteller, I need to go through a story to create. For me that is also the focus on processes, the process is a story, and the Ruinart story fits very well with the way I try to design". - Piet Hein Eek

For more than twenty years, Hein Eek has designed contemporary marquetry in which the materials take on a dreamlike appeal. Each wooden case developed in this collaboration is adapted to each champagne bottle, an incredible testament to craftsmanship and luxury. Even more incredible than the individual cases are the architectural structures Hein Eek was able to construct to create sculptures of wood and Champagne bottles. The trapezoid box, whose geometry follows the bottle with a series of minimal tangents, was designed with recycled wood in pale grey, white and cream, reminding the artist of the Ruinart Blanc de Blancs.

The Blanc de Blancs is a Champagne produced only from Chardonnay grapes, compared to other possibilities such as a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, which creates a truly fine, gastronomic Champagne.

"Eek’s playful aesthetic, which treads a singular line between the utilitarian and the poetic, resonates with the values of the Ruinart label." - Ruinart

"Yes, the common denominator is provided by the Montblanc trademark. Minerva (now part of Montblanc, at Villeret) is a manufacture producing hand-crafted, high quality timepieces at astoundingly high levels of excellence. At Le Locle, volumes are higher, but in any case the watches made there have in-house movements. This corresponds to a different sector of the market, not just for connoisseurs, but also for people who appreciate design and the technical content of watches, at a more accessible price when compared to the Villeret watches." (In the photo below, the TimeWalker TwinFly Chronograph).

In a way, the Nicolas Rieussec watches represent an area midway between Star and TimeWalker and the Villeret watches. But are they made in La Locle, or at Villeret?

"They are manufactured in Le Locle, with development by Minerva at Villeret. It is a project that began many years ago. Every year, the Rieussec has a new feature, a new complication, and Montblanc dedicates great energy and investment to it. We like to be able to produce watches with our own movements that are constantly developed in accordance with the market. We like clients to be faithful to our brand; they are like travelling companions for us. In other words, they may start with a Le Locle watch, which may cost about 2,500 or 3,000 euro, and later on perhaps they can approach a Villeret piece. The Star and TimeWalker collections are achieving great success at this particular moment in time, because they are more accessible, with a greater distribution. Villeret models are sold in just two boutiques in Italy." (Below, the Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours chronograph, one of the new products for 2013).

In the photo below, the beautiful Villeret ExoTourbillon in red gold:

As regards boutiques, what is the situation for the Italian retail network?

"Our boutiques in Italy include 12 own-brand stores, from the north to Naples. These have the complete range, and express the brand to an optimum level. In addition, we have partnerships with jewelleries in which we can construct our own display area, with a shop in shop or a similar structure. These are our two major channels. For years, we have concentrated on the shopping experience, which is not just about buying a product. It is about placing the customer at the centre, and telling him or her a story, the brand's world. In our boutiques we try to create special moments, for example with a watchmaker present, or a cultural or artistic event."

Montblanc has been working with art for many years. The stand at SIHH 2013 featured works of art made by young artists as part of a competition for interpretations of the Montblanc star. The originals remain in Montblanc, while copies are used to decorate boutiques all over the world, while also promoting the young artists. (Below, a work by Stephen Craig).

"In this way, the boutique becomes a moment of conversation, for the transmission of ideas and culture. It helps clients feel at home, because it shows that the brand is not just about business, but shared ideas as well. There are many projects for creating opportunities for interaction and the transmission of ideas. Other brands invest in culture as a form of communication: we are different."

Montblanc is different in many ways, from its origins in the field of writing instruments, and for that logo, the star, whose graphic simplicity and power are unrivalled. "The star logo helps us a lot, it expresses our coherence and continuity in managing the brand. The star talks! It even became a diamond, in 2006, to celebrate our centenary. We created a new diamond cut named the Montblanc, in a star shape that mirrors the logo."

This is marketing of course, very good marketing, and it fits in well with a brand that exudes a constantly positive message of perfect coordination amongst its various product areas. All in all, a tale of glittering, multi-faceted success.

Read more:

Interview with Lutz Bethge, CEO of Montblanc

Christian Knoop completed an apprenticeship as a cabinetmaker before he began his studies in industrial design in Essen. His love of craftsmanship stands him in good stead at IWC, where each new piece is developed and made at the company based in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. The brand's booth at SIHH was a spectacular presentation, reflecting the new partnership between IWC and Formula One racing team Mercedes AMG Petronas. We spoke to him about his work and the watches.

Which of the new IWC models would you identify as the most significant at SIHH?

"It would have to be the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. This piece captures all the IWC brand values, in terms of both its movement and the dial design. The in-house movement has a unique mechanism displaying date and month on a series of five display discs, with a leap year indicator at 6 o'clock, ensuring that the watch takes the 29th day of February into account every four years. The design inspiration came from a 19th-century pocket watch, one of the first to have digital indicators instead of hands. This movement therefore represents a link with our heritage; we have translated a piece of history into contemporary design. When you see the detail on the movement and caseback, you can immediately tell that it is a modern movement, with its contemporary finish and its technical aspects."

What is it that sets IWC apart from other watchmakers today?

"The engineers. The brand stands for engineering, technicity, masculine design and precision, and you don't find this combination in other brands at our volumes. Others may be technical, but they're not masculine. Another characteristic consists of our six product families, some of which were established over 70 years ago. We develop then carefully year after year, collection after collection, perpetuating their DNA, whether they are for sailors, divers, racers, pilots and so forth. I'm not aware of any other brand in the industry that has all this."

About IWC and the challenge of new materials?

"In the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar, the case is in titanium aluminide, a high-tech material that is four times harder than normal titanium, much harder than steel. It's used in Formula One for the most highly-stressed parts of the engine. This year's Ingenieur collection also features carbon, another Formula One material. IWC has a prestige reputation for its work in new materials, and you can see this from our use of titanium in the 1980s, and likewise with ceramics in the 1980s, in the Da Vinci line. We were one of the first brands to introduce zirconium oxide ceramics in watches."

Could you provide a portrait of a person who wears an IWC watch?

"They are all different, but they all have an emotional relationship with the product. They relate to a mechanical watch. All customers find their own link, some are really interested in the mechanical micro-universe and the micro-engineering, others are interested in the brand heritage and the style. Perhaps if they have something in common, it's that they're non-conformist; they are not seeking mainstream brands, they're not going for the obvious, they want to make a more selective choice, they want to stand out in a very modest way. For sure, all of them need a certain budget to buy these pieces, they are all interested in technology as such. They possibly have an interest in sports cars, and this seems to go well together with a mechanical watch."

You joined IWC in 2008. Could you tell us something about your personal experience at IWC?

"This is my fourth collection. I'm always very excited to introduce a new collection, and I'm getting more excited every year. We had a fantastic show last year with the Pilot's collection, and this year we have tried to improve even further with our presentation. For me, this is the crucial moment of the year, when you can get a first impression of what this product means, from our retailers and from journalists. We've been waiting for this moment for two years, from when we began to develop the collection."

Men are looking at different types of investment, which can include things such as property, but also some types of luxury products. Do you think about the investment value of watches when you are designing?

"No, never. I think that a watch, as an investment, has to be very rare. As a designer, you want your product to be very popular, to be on many wrists, and to have many fans out there. So I would never consider limiting the production of a watch in order to push its price up. For us designers, the important things are the DNA, the product's design code and its historical roots, all of which enable customers to identify the watch as an IWC. We want to make a statement in terms of introducing something new, adding new details, new stories, new materials, to give our watches a new face without losing that identity. In general, I think that the aspect of identity is of growing relevance. The watch market is getting larger and more crowded. Designing the identity of the product is enormously important. When I look around our booth, the quality of design that I see is enormous. They are all beautiful products. The key feature is that the products are immediately recognizable as IWC."

As a designer, you have to look ahead at least two years. How does this work?

"Actually it's very exciting to have that balance. As the products move forwards, you go from the drawing board to the first samples, that's always a thrill. On the other hand we are also working on the future collections which are two, three, five years ahead. The fact that the designer gets a taste of success every year helps him to work on something with such a long timespan. If you had nothing else in the meantime, and you had to wait for something so far in the future, it would be more difficult."

LUXOS readers are international travellers. They travel for business. Which model would you recommend for them?

"I'm proud to have the Ingenieur Dual Time Titanium in the new collection, which indicates a second time zone by means of a second 24-hour display. This is very relevant in our world; both local time and the 24-hour time are easy to move forward and back according to the wearer's location. It's a useful function, perfect as part of a modern collection."

The Dual Time Titanium is deceptively simple in appearance, with the cool, satin gleam of the metal providing a satisfying contrast with the black rubber strap and the black and white dial markings. A worthy successor to the long line of Ingenieur watches, which run right back to 1955, and which saw the innovative contribution of Gérald Genta, who in 1976, inspired by a diver's helmet during a walk on the shores of Lake Geneva, had the idea of leaving five screws exposed in the bezel. A feature that has been brilliantly incorporated into the new collection.

 In the photo above, the Ingenieur SL, a classic dating back to 1976, with design by Gérald Genta

Read more:

Formula Watch, an interview with Carlo Ceppi
Top 10 pilot's watches 2012

Protected by a fine glass cabinet, the crew of a richly-ornamented miniature ship, (photo 2 above, automaton in the form of a ship, 1585, Augusta, silver, gilding, brass, oil paint, movement in iron, h. 67 cm, length 66 cm) designed to add decoration to the imperial table, seems to be suspended in time, as if for ever crystallized while performing their roles.

In the same way, a centaur ridden by the goddess Diana (photo 3 above, ) is immortalized with a profusion of silver at the instant at which she is preparing to shoot an arrow, while a gilded Minerva, seated on a horse-drawn chariot accompanied by satyrs and a monkey, enchants the spectator with her inquisitive smile, made even more enigmatic by her absolutely static pose (photo 4 below: attributed to Achilles Langenbucher (1579-ca. 1650), Automaton, so-called Triumphal Chariot with Minerva, ca. 1620, Augsburg, gilded copper alloy, silver, enamel, ebony, iron, tin).

But once we have launched the videos on the tablets fitted onto the seating near such automatons (photo 5 below, one of the 33 seating units, each of which has two tablets, which can be used along the Kunstkammer itinerary), we discover all the functions of these pieces and their hidden movements. By means of complex mechanisms inside its structure, the galleon can amuse guests with pleasant music, during which the crew on the decks begins to move in an orderly dance; at the same time, its cannons fire broadsides towards a diner, who, thus chosen, is required to empty his cup of wine.

In the same way, the silvery centaur can release an innocuous arrow from his bow, and the guest who receives it will have to pronounce a witty motto, suitable for the regal occasion. We discover that Minerva can move her eyes, while the horses rear, and her bizarre cohort of followers move rhythmically in time to the sound of a mechanical organ.

These are just some of the remarkable automatons that, from 1 March, can be admired at the Kunstkammer, the historical core of the collections at the Kunsthistorisches Museum (often abbreviated to KHM), the Historical Art Museum in Vienna, location of the priceless materials that once belonged to the Hapsburg dynasty. The Kunstkammer, which had been closed for 11 years, has been reopened with a completely new layout, supervised by the general manager Sabine Haag and the curator Franz Kirchweger. The exhibition design enhances the beauty of the individual pieces, and reveals their secrets by means of state-of-the-art technology and educational systems.

The event is of an importance that exceeds all local or regional connotations. Totally erroneous is the opinion of those who believe that the restoration of the 20 rooms presenting the Hapsburg treasures reflects a sort of nostalgic and anachronistic glorification of the like-named dynasty, at the heart of Austrian history for many centuries, right up until 1918. The project was made possible by the Republic of Austria, its taxpayers and its cultural institutions.

Wunderkammer, the marvels of the world

The reasons for this fallacy can be found in the nature and functions of the earliest museum collections, which were very different from the criteria applied in modern collections. While the basic principle of the Wunderkammer, or 'chamber of marvels,' was to create a sort of theatrum mundi, a miniature image of the creation and its extraordinary variety, beauty and eccentricity, reflecting the desire to classify knowledge in a proto-scientific way, it is also true that the principal function of this type of collection was that of creating a prestigious talking point for important visitors.

A glance at the ancient guest-books signed by visitors to the 'Kunst- e Wunderkammer' in the castle of Ambras in Innsbruck, also founded by a Hapsburg, Ferdinand II of Tyrol (1529-95) clears up any shadow of doubt that may remain. Of course, visitors to this type of sancta sanctorum were the crème de la crème of the day. In the 17th and 18th centuries, they included Montaigne, Christina of Sweden, and of course, the ubiquitous Goethe.

The universal nature of a sovereign's collections were important for his or her legitimization. The period in which Wunderkammers reached their height of popularity coincides with that of the great explorers. It is widely known that the empire of Charles V (1500-58), which included both the Hapsburg and Spanish dominions, was so vast that on it the sun 'never set.' From these exotic locations, which five centuries ago were hidden by an aura of magic and mystery, arrived objects exhibited in the Kunstkammer of Vienna, such as the gigantic double coconut (photo 6 above, Anton Schweinberger, setting, attributed to Nikolaus Pfaff, Ewer made of half a Seychelles nut, 1602, Prague; Seychelles nut setting: partly gilt silver, h. 38.5 cm, © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien), and the equally large ostrich egg (photo 7 below, Clement Kicklinger, Ostrich egg goblet, c. 1570/75, Augsburg, ostrich egg, coral, gilt and partly painted silver, h. 56.8 cm, © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien)

Another such exhibit is the legendary bezoar (photo 8 below, in gold, emeralds and rubies), to which were ascribed formidable curative properties, and the power to neutralize poisons. In actual fact, this fascinating stone with almost lunar appearance is nothing but a calcareous growth found in the stomachs of goats and llamas.

Regal prestige

The automatons described in the opening paragraphs also played a role in this programmatic intention, because these startling mechanical devices, far ahead of their time, enabled rulers to savour a taste, albeit far removed, of divine creation. This accompanied another characteristic shared by all Wunderkammer collections and the sovereigns who instituted them, namely objects commissioned and made in the toughest materials, those hardest to work. This was probably performed not just to win the admiration of observers, but also to express how Nature can be softened by Culture. This suggests a sort of paradisiacal beatitude attainable only through by a messianic intervention, once again identified with the sovereign. This trend is demonstrated by a remarkable series of priceless objects, such as a cup in lapislazzuli, gold and other precious materials, shaped into a dragon by Milanese gemcutter Gasparo Miseroni (photo 9 below, Gasparo Miseroni, Lapis Lazuli Dragon Cup, c. 1565/70, Milan, Lapis Lazuli; setting: gold, enamel, rubies, emeralds, pearls, 2 garnets, 17.2 cm x 18.9 cm x 10.9 cm, © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien).

Another example is the ivory statuette in which Jakob Auer depicted a dynamic instant in Daphne's transformation into a laurel tree in order to prevent her violation by Apollo (photo 10, below, Jakob Auer, Apollo and Daphne, c. 1688/90, Vienna, ivory, h. 43.9 cm © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien).

In this and in many other pieces, Ovid's Metamorphosis is the source of the sculptural subjects used by the artist as inspiration. There are the bronzes by Giambologna, and the famous salt-cellar made by Benvenuto Cellini for Francis I of France, later becoming part of the rival Hapsburg collection as a regal gift (photo 11 below: KHM General Director, Dr. Sabine Haag with Benvenuto Cellini's Saliera/Salt Cellar, 1540-43, Paris, gold, enamel, ebony, ivory, 26.3 cm x 28.5 cm x 21.5 cm, © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien). This piece was stolen from the Kunsthistorisches Museum in 2003, and recovered only three years later.

We should also mention the rock crystal sculptures of almost superhuman virtuosity, and other virtuoso mineral masterpieces such as the view of Hradčany castle in Prague depicted using semi-precious stones, made by Tuscan artist Giovanni Castrucci, summoned by Rudolf II (1552-1612) to work at his court in Bohemia. In the photo below: Giovanni Castrucci (documented in Prague 1598, d. 1615), View of the Hradčany, Prague, after 1606, Prague, various kinds of agate and jasper on slate, h. 11.5 cm, w. 23.8 cm, © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien.

Rudolf II, a reluctant emperor

Rudolf II was probably the most complex personality amongst the emperors and archdukes that you meet in the Viennese Kunstkammer. His detractors had no problem in describing him as crazy, in part justified by his ancestry which had links, through two branches of his family, to Joanna the Mad of Castile. One thing is certain: he preferred spending his time cultivating the arts rather than politics. He was relatively untroubled by dynastic duties, limited to a supposed infatuation with a princess in the distant Grand Duchy of Moscow, a convenient method of walking away from the nuptial arrangements planned by his aged mother.

Given the situation, it is easy to understand why Rudolf's court, and the emperor's pages, preferred to ignore diplomatic relations and passed their time directing innocuous balls at the heads of illustrious guests, such as the prince of Transylvania, Stephan Bocskay, who would later declare war on the Hapsburgs.

Rudolf, science and horology

Rudolf was also interested in science, which in the late 16th-early 17th centuries was still indissolubly linked to astrology and alchemy, not yet banished by the Enlightenment. His interest in astronomy and astrology brought the most distinguished specialists of the day, Tycho Brahe and Kepler, to Prague. He was fascinated by timepieces, and was himself an amateur clockmaker. Room 27 of the Kunstkammer (photo 13 above, Gallery 27, © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien), the hall that best expresses the spirit of Rudof II, presents some rare horological masterpieces, such as a table clock made in 1596 by Christoph Margraf, with an ingenious movement in which time is measured by the passage of metal balls within a zig-zag circuit (photo 14 below, first clock using rolling spheres, 1596, Prague, wood covered in black velvet, brass, gilding, glass, silver mineral, varnish on parchment, iron movement, 40.3 cm x 28 cm x 23 cm).

Also in Room 27 is a bronze bust of the emperor (photo 15 below) crafted by Adriaen de Vries, a sculptor working in Prague, who, after Rudolf II's death, found another generous patron in the mercenary captain Wallenstein. These events date to the Thirty Years' War. It is for this reason that most of the statues by de Vries can be seen not in Prague, but in the palace of Drottningholm in Stockholm. The Royal Armée of Sweden sacked Prague and the building owned by Wallenstein towards the end of the conflict, in 1648. The portrait of Rudolf II in the guise of Vertumnus, Etruscan god of the harvest, by the mannerist painter Giuseppe Arcimboldi, famous for his anthropomorphic compositions of fruit, vegetables and other objects, is likewise now in the castle of Skokloster in Sweden. In the photo below: Adriaen de Vries, Emperor Rudolf II, dated 1603, Prague, bronze, 112 cm x 70 cm x 41 cm, © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien.

Some of the objects at the Kunstkammer reflect the Hapsburgs' cultural heritage, that included the Germanic Holy Roman Empire: for example, the sculpture of the pelican feeding its chicks with its own blood, in reference to the figure of Christ (photo 16 below: Centrepiece in the form of a pelican, 1583, Ulm, gilded silver, partially painted).

Another piece with religious significance is that in which an attractive young woman is accompanied by her own image as an old woman, expressing the concept of vanitas (photos 17/18 below: Michel Erhart / Jörg Syrlin the elder, Vanitas, c. 1470/80, Ulm, polychromed wood, h. 46.5 cm, © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien).

There are other, more enigmatic objects, such as the statuette of a bear holding a rifle: the animal is no longer hunted, but has become the hunter (photo 19 blow). This idea of an 'upside-down world' can also be found in the paintings by Pieter Brueghel the Elder in his 'Dutch Proverbs.' Perhaps it is no coincidence that the KHM has the largest collection of Brueghel paintings in the world. In the photo below: Gregor Bair / Valentin Drausch / Heinrich Wagner, The Bear as Hunter, 1580-81, Augsburg and Munich, silver, musk, gold, enamel, emeralds, rubies, sapphire, pearls, h. 21.3 cm, © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien.

The idea of an upside-down world expressed by this type of object can be found in many areas of European culture, as has been shown by Ernst Robert Curtius. It runs right back to Archilocus and Virgil, up to the modern epoch, including the Middle Ages (as in Carmina Burana to mention the most famous example). Possibly the bust by Francesco Laurana depicts Petrarch's Laura, the idealized woman described by the poet who perhaps more than any other represents the continuity between ancient and pre-Renaissance culture. In the photos below: Francesco Laurana (1430-1502), Female Bust, Ideal Portrait of Laura (?), c. 1490, Milan, marble, partially painted wax, h. 44 cm, w. 42.5 cm, © Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien.

Links with Flanders

The link between the Kunstkammer and Flanders began during the reign of Margaret, governess general of the Low Countries (1480-1530), when the earliest Hapsburg art collections began to develop in that area of Europe. When the Kunstkammer was reopened, a representative of Flanders said, "This collection cannot be considered merely from a local or regional viewpoint, because the objects at the Kunstkammer in Vienna are an expression of the whole world." This awareness will lead to a programme of loans, in which each year an important Flemish work of art will be presented in the Viennese museum.
The rooms in which the Kunstkammer objects are exhibited today are not the same in which the Hapsburgs presented their collection. They are now in an eclectic building commissioned by Emperor Franz Josef in 1891, used for his own collection. The German studio HG Merz designed original solutions to suggest the magic of the original Kunstkammer in the 19th-century building.

Other Wunderkammer collections

Other Kunstkammer collections can be seen in their original locations. One such example is in Innsbruck, at the castle of Ambras (also managed by KHM). Another is at the fort of Forchtenstein, in Burgenland, with part of the Esterházy family's collections (another part can be seen at the National Gallery of Budapest); at Halle in Germany, there are the Francke Foundation collections, in attractive cabinets decorated according to the theme of the objects exhibited. The Green Vault of Dresden merits a visit.
Hegel said that private property is an individual's mode of self-expression in objects, and this is certainly true of the Kunstkammer. The objects that belonged to the Hapsburgs offer a remarkable portrait of the passions and idiosyncrasies of the exponents of this dynasty. In this article, I have mentioned just a few of the 2,200 objects on display, and so I recommend a visit to Vienna to see them first-hand. Ideal for anyone who loves art, culture and history.

Alberto Gerosa

Useful information

Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien
Maria Theresien-Platz
1010 Vienna
www.khm.at

Opening times
Tuesday-Sunday, 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. (open until 9.00 p.m. on Thursdays). Closed on Mondays.
To visit the Kunstkammer, a ticket for a specific timeslot is required, in addition to the standard ticket for the other halls of the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Further information at www.khm.at/timeslots.

The wonderful collections are created by an expert team of artists, designers and goldsmiths whose apparent passion for their craft comes alive every season through colourful and sophisticated necklaces, bangles and so much more! The workshop is still today the heart and soul of the maison where the pieces are created, inspired by art and philosophy.

The Daisy is the new ring of the season: the simplicity and cleanness of the circular design is beautifully balanced by the enamel patterns at their center and look just as wonderful worn on their own or stacked to dramatic effect. With names like ‘Homage to Gustav Klimt’, ‘Hope’ and ‘10002 nights’ that are both sensual and thought provoking, you realize that you will be acquiring - or giving so much more than a piece of jewelry-it’s a thought process, a philosophy…

‘Ode to the joy of life,’ another profoundly aptly named collection bursts with refined vitality in a celebration of love and happiness: available in strong, popping colours that speak to passionate love as well as in more delicate hues perhaps dedicated to a quieter more discreet kind of love!

Another favourite for this spring/summer is a celebration of the Mother Nature’s most glorious moment: the blooming of her flowers in a cornucopia of rainbow colours, the Floral Symphony collection. Opulent yet profoundly elegant, like the floral explosions we are treated to every spring and summer, the patterns are veritable works of art set against a gold background that make the colours even brighter and more sublime.

Light hearted and chic, Freywille continues to create lovely statement pieces that are masterfully and lovingly made. Truly quite unlike anything else you have ever seen before, this delectably unique jewelry will brighten your life!

This is no exaggeration. In the Grand Complication Royal Oak Offshore, the perpetual calendar is combined with 2 other complications, the chronograph split second, and the minute repeater. With 648 parts, each watch is assembled by a single artisan, who dedicates over 820 hours to the task. The fascination of the Calibre 2885 movement is enhanced by the openworked components that enable you to glimpse deep inside the watch, with even the tiniest parts superbly finished and bevelled.

The perpetual calendar is arranged within the classic sport-oriented Royal Oak design with its octagonal bezel and visible screws, creating a very masculine, distinctive watch, waterproof to 20 metres, and with excellent acoustics for the minute repeater. Not for everybody: in two versions, one with a pink gold case, one in titanium, just three of each will be made.

One could say that a watch of this type is a work of art?

"In a way, yes, but watches are more difficult, because they have to work! They are both art, aesthetics, and engineering. Craftsmanship and function. Watches such as the Royal Oak are pieces of design. It has become an icon, part of our heritage."
When it comes to heritage, Audemars Piguet is a company accustomed to protecting and preserving. "Since 1992 we have had a foundation for the environment, and we work on the protection of the forests around Le Brassus, a beautiful environment, as well as forests all over the world."

We asked Giampaolo Ziviani about his work with brand testimonials. "It was fun working with Simona Ventura in Italy. We developed a watch with Rubens Barrichello, and now we are working with Schumacher, Djokovic, Lionel Messi, and many golf players including Roy McIlroy. People like this have a lot in common with a brand like Audemars Piguet: precision, performance, being number 1!"

And do they understand watches, we ask?

"Schumacher is a great fan, and also an expert and a connoisseur. In a way, this is not surprising, because watches and cars share something very important, the aspects of functionality. Other personalities perhaps know less about watches, but they all appreciate our way of working and our aesthetics, and then they progressively learn more about the mechanical secrets. People in car-racing are accustomed to mechanics."

Is the brand is shifting its prices upwards, or downwards, or expanding their price range? "Audemars Piguet makes a very limited number of watches, just 31,000 pieces per year. We don't want to grow in volume, we want to maintain quality and upgrade our customers, moving them to more complicated watches. We don't want to go towards lower-entry products. We are happy doing what we are doing: we want to stay there."

And are there any upcoming developments in your retail network?

"Our boutique on Via Montenapleone was an important step. We will refurbish the boutique in September this year, and it will be an important affirmation of the brand, a totally new store concept. Its opening will be a world premier!

"As regards digital marketing, we have done a great deal to improve our Internet communications. Visitors to our website have increased four-fold, and we have a lot of Twitter fans. The Internet can do a lot for us, but I don't think that e-commerce will ever be replaced by the boutique experience. Nothing is better than touching a watch and trying it on. You have to feel the weight, what it looks like, how it feels. You buy an Audemars Piguet for life, it's not a plastic watch."

A last question: are female clients becoming more significant overall?

"Yes, definitely. Women are more interested in complication watches. For Audemars PIguet, this will be an important year for women's watches, with a campaign that will be presented in early March worldwide. Audemars Piguet was amongst the first manufacturers to make beautiful manual movements in a baguette setting in the late 19th century, with some really tiny movements, including the smallest minute repeater. We have always dedicated a lot of effort to creating superlative timepieces for women."

And so Audemars Piguet continues its path, unerringly making some of the most iconic timepieces in the world. We look forward to the new developments in women's watches, and the new boutique concept in September this year.

The championship golf course, that spreads over 7,396 yards, was designed by none other than Colin Montgomerie, an extraordinary sportsman and one of the world’s most celebrated golfers who this year will be inducted into the World Golf Hall of Fame! It must come as no surprise then, that this golf course has consistently been recognized as one of the best courses in all of the Middle East!

The hotel also boasts 21 exclusive 5-star hotel rooms that are impeccably appointed, and all offer stunning views and amenities befitting a unique gem like The Address Montgomerie Dubai, as well as the luxuriant Angsana spa that is an oasis within an oasis. All the therapists are trained at the Banyan Tree Spa Academy in Thailand, ensuring that your wellness experience will stay with you long after you have returned home!

The hotel also offers 4 marvellous dining options, including Monty Cristo’s, an enviably-stocked cigar bar with a selection of the most delectable cigars and single malts, and the newly refurbished Monty’s (previously known as Bunkers but re-named in honour of Colin Montgomerie) with a menu that brings new meaning to pub cooking.

If Dubai is in your plans, be certain to spend some time at this breathtaking venue, especially if you golf but even you don’t! The Address has redefined the meaning of luxury hospitality and you will never want to leave!

Valcambi is a company that was founded in 1961, at Balerna, in Ticino, Switzerland. It refines about 2,000 tons of precious metals per year, which means just over three tons of gold, and almost four of silver, per day. This company is one of the four major Swiss gold refineries, who together process about two-thirds of the world's gold. The value of their products is such that while Valcambi and its competitors are not familiar to the general public, it is a global economic player. It also means that security is a major consideration. Valcambi is constantly concerned with protecting their employees, clients, and their clients' assets, around the clock.

Valcambi's cast and minted bars are recognized worldwide and accepted by all the main precious metals markets and financial institutions. Over the years, it has developed a series of new products in response to changing demand from investors, from gold investment bars in sizes ranging from 1 kg down to 0.5 g, and including the innovative CombiBar, a 50-gram slab of gold whose scored structure means that it can be snapped apart into much smaller pieces, ready for whatever sort of distribution you need – one could imagine numerous lucky grandchildren, or employees, whatever... but in actual fact, high net worth people in Europe are buying this product because it is perfect as a replacement for money in a crisis. The CombiBar can be personalized for the client both on obverse and reverse, as long as the compulsory marks are retained.

There is no doubt that gold is an extraordinarily compact method of encapsulating monetary value. An ingot weights about 12.5 kilogrammes, with a value of around €502,000. A 1,000-gram bar, about the size of a bar of chocolate, represents about €40,000 (of course values are changing all the time). Valcambi also provides a precious metals storage service in its armoured vaults. Your metal ingots are kept separate from others, identified by means of their serial numbers. This service becomes a sort of alternative bank, because customers have access to the international precious metals market and can convert their gold into cash whenever required. Alternatively, the bullion can be delivered to anywhere in the world. There are minimum quantities for this service: 100 kilograms of gold, 500 kilograms of silver, and so forth.

Valcambi has close relationships with watchmakers, supplying them with precious metal alloys, and also manufacturing parts such as watchcases and bezels using dies supplied by the client or made to their specifications.

Demand for gold reflects its value as an alternative to bonds, equity and real estate. Like any commodity, it is subject to speculation, but in actual fact it behaves more like a currency than a commodity. Its value is partly due to its limited supply. Imagine a cube with sides 20 metres long: this would contain all the gold ever mined in the world. About 2,500 tonnes of gold are mined every year, of which 2,000 tonnes are used for jewellery, watches, dental and industrial products. The rest goes to investors. The value of gold rises during moments of crisis, such as recent years. Prices rose from about $340 per troy ounce in July 2001 to a peak of around $1900 in August 2011. Some analysts have predicted that gold will reach $11,000 per ounce over the next five years, while others think that it has reached its peak and is destined to go down. This is the grist of financial analysts, but one thing is certain: gold has that primeval lure that strikes a cord in everyone's heart, whatever the climate, ensuring that whatever the market does, gold is always going to be in high demand.

Valcambi s.a.
Via Passeggiata 3
CH-6828 Balerna, Switzerland
Tel. +41 (0)91 2600 563
valcambi.com

The passion shared by Longines since the late 18th century, continues across three main areas in the world of equestrian sports; show jumping, speed racing and endurance. Longines is not only the official timekeeper of The Longines Royal International Horse Show at Hickstead, Royal Ascot and the Royal meeting in the UK, it is also the timekeeper for numerous equestrian events worldwide, from France, Italy and Spain to the United Arab Emirates, China and Australia.

This year, Longines and the Fédération Equestre Internationale (FEI) and Longines have signed a 10-year partnership in which the Swiss watchmaker has become its official timekeeper and official watch.

The Conquest Classic collection’s timepieces, all fitted with self-winding calibres, are proof of Longines’ 21st century commitment to equestrian sports. The Conquest Classic has hour, minute, seconds and date display, available in steel, rose gold or a combination of both. The numerals 12, 6 and 9 are applied on the black or silvered dial, giving the watch a sporty look. A glamorous reference for the ladies comes with a mother-of-pearl dial set with 12 diamonds, or a bezel set with 30 diamonds. Choose between a diameter of 29.5, 40 or 41mm. All chronograph models are fitted with the exclusive L688 column-wheel movement. It has the hour, minute and small seconds display at the 9 o’clock position, a centre sweep seconds, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 6. The Conquest Classic is the perfect tribute to Longines’ love for equestrian sports.

The new colour spectrum
Forget the classic rainbow colours this season as designers have extended the visible spectrum into a spring colour palette that blends hot neons with cool pastels and everything in between. Taking the colour-blocking trend to a new level, Lanvin offered a series of party frocks in colourful duchess satins, while Rochas, Narciso Rodriguez, and Burberry Prorsum re-examined primaries in their tone-on-tone ensembles. Dior also played with colours, mixing neon with nude and bubblegum pink with red in a series of easy-to-wear dresses and layers. Keeping the spectrum balanced are the hot neutrals of the season, white and tan, often accented by the delicate texture of lace or eyelet, which Valentino proved to be king of this season. Alberta Ferretti’s aqua and violet colours evoked an air of romance and femininity, her signature style.

How to wear it: Don’t be afraid to incorporate some new colours into your wardrobe this season. If you have olive skin, go for either the light end of the spectrum, focusing on whites and tans, or the bright end, wearing emerald green, yellow, red, or orange. Navy is also stunning on olive-skinned beauties, but it’s a colour that complements fair skin too. Reds that slant to the yellow spectrum rather than the blue are hot on lighter skin tones, as are violet, grey, white, and yellow.

Flower power
Channelling the style icons of the late 1960s, fashion this season is all about retro silhouettes, accessories, and floral prints. From Dior’s floral ball skirts, reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn and the starlettes of the era, to Kenzo’s matching floral print ensembles with cigarette pants and halter-tops, designers are offering up a modern interpretation of these classic styles. Valentino interpreted the theme in a lady-like way, using a delicate vine print that is so Jackie O. Mulberry took the flower power trend to the maximum, showing head-to-toe print on print, even down to the handbag, which Mulberry proposes in mustard with dainty white flowers for spring. Another who mastered the art of retro this season is Rochas. Between the chic crop tops and cardigans, the headscarves, and of course, the perfect retro sunglasses and platform shoes, Rochas is the one to watch if you air towards the likes of Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy. One of our favourite retro collections of the season is Louis Vuitton, for the simple shift dresses, crop tops and mini skirts that would make Mary Quant proud.

How to wear it: Floral prints can be intimidating, so if print matching isn’t your style, then aim to pair the trend down by mixing it in one piece at a time. If you’re going for total flowery, take a cue from Mulberry and mix tones of floral, while not necessarily the exact same prints. As for the short hemlines, be your own judge as to whether you should go for a stiletto or flat sandal. To add just a bit of the retro vibe into your wardrobe, all you need is a chic pair of sunnies, such as the ones by Rochas, or a simple shift dress like those by Louis Vuitton.

White hot
White is the new black this season, as not a runway show went on without a series of seriously hot white looks. White comes in all forms, from the feminine eyelet and lace numbers by Valentino, to the sexy sheer whites by Rochas, and the super clean, modern lines of Narciso Rodriguez. Another favourite was the white trench, shown by Mulberry and Burberry, that gives instant class to any spring or summer outfit. Carven and Loewe added allure to their whites with delicate laser cut details, while Blumarine kept silhouettes relaxed and elongated. Whether bucket-shaped or square and structured, the must-have for this spring/summer is the white handbag, as shown by everyone from Balenciaga and Céline to Lanvin and Mulberry.

How to wear it: First of all, prepare to invest in a high-powered stain remover, for white needs your constant love and attention. Luckily, your hotel probably has a stellar dry cleaning service. The key to mastering the white-hot look this season is to layer it, head-to-toe. Gold accessories, such as a set of fine rings on each finger, or a statement bag will accent your white look perfectly. Add some colour to your look by wearing a pop of red lipstick, like Chanel’s Rouge Allure Velvet lipstick in La Fascinante.

Ruffled up
From flamenco to frilly, playful ruffles are a must this season. Balenciaga’s version caught our attention with cascading ruffles on an asymmetric hemline, evoking a modern-day Carmen Miranda. Putting ruffles to work for their added volume and texture, Dries Van Noten paired them with his signature bold patterns, such as plaid and floral in warm tones accented by fuchsia lips and metallic shoes. Givenchy took ruffles into the future, carving the oscillations out of delicate, yet architectural, sheer fabrics. The fresh face of fashion, Acne, combined bold contrasting colours like red and blue with ruffles, creating a double-sided effect, also seen on the runways of Balenciaga.

How to wear it: Ruffles are the perfect way to spice up your wardrobe this season. Whether a slight ruffle on a bell sleeve paired with a simple white pant, or a full on ruffled dress for a night out on the town, this trend is easily adaptable. Ruffles can be large and voluminous, or small and feminine, but chic either way.

The event took place at the Dubai International Marine Club – Mina Seyahi and showcased over 563 international companies, brands and exhibitors from more than 49 countries as well as included debut appearances from Malta, Armenia and Malaysia. In addition, the US, Turkey and Italy increased their presence this year with Turkey occupying the largest exhibition space. “The annual Dubai International Boat Show is among the world’s very best platforms for Turkish companies like ours to sell to Gulf buyers of luxury leisure marine products and services,” said Sebahattin Hafizoglu, Founder and Chairman of Vicem Yachts. “As Turkey has expanded its exhibition space by more than eight times this year, Vicem Yachts has also increased its presence significantly – in line with our belief that there is demonstrated demand for superyachts of our caliber in the Middle East. The US and Italy increased their total exhibition space by 110 and 47 per cent respectively. As part of the US exhibition space, a new Florida pavilion highlights the greater demand for American-made products and leisure crafts.

In the Luxury Supplies and Services (LSS) section of the show, international exhibitors from Egypt, France, Germany, Italy, Oman, Monaco, the Netherlands, Turkey, UAE and US were present with Turkey showcasing 10 of the new exhibitors. The Dive Middle East (DMEX) segment of the exhibition also saw a 35 per cent expansion this year with new international exhibitors from Denmark, France, Germany and the US, among others.

The first few days of the show reported strong sales with several exhibitors stating purchases from the instant the fair opened. Even before the event, expectations for sales were high given the Middle East’s growing number of high networth individuals (HNWI). According to a recent Boston Consulting Group analysis, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Qatar and the UAE are among the world’s top 10 countries with the highest density of ultra-wealthy households. The show also attracted wealthy buyers from Asia, particularly India, China and Turkey – all countries which have recently noted a boom in USD millionaires and extremely wealthy individuals. With a steady stream of sales and an increase in international and regional exhibitors, this year’s Dubai International Boat Show proved the event’s value as well as Dubai’s pivotal location as a crucial crossroads for the international luxury maritime industry.

As a child, I remember visiting the rich treasury of the Topkapi Palace Museum and being mesmerized by the sheer size of the drop-shaped Spoonmaker’s Diamond. Little did I know that this 86-carat diamond had become part of the Treasury in the 17th century and was used by Sultan Abdülhamid I as the centerpiece of an aigrette placed at the top of his turban. When I went to visit İrepoğlu at her beautiful study filled with Ottoman and modern art and artefacts, she explained how the austere Ottoman architecture contrasted with the glamour of smaller objects. The Ottomans valued functionality in their daily lives, but as the empire progressed, the Padişah (the reigning Sultan) had to be set apart from his subjects by virtue of his bejewelled presence.

One indispensable jewellery item is the aforementioned aigrette, comprising of an either gold or silver socket encrusted with rubies, diamonds or emeralds and accompanied by varying colours of plumes. Crane, heron, bird of paradise, ostrich and peacock feathers adorned the jewelled aigrettes, which could take the shape of a rose, a ball, or five balls, which looked like an open hand. They could be worn over the turban singly or in threes, but never more than three at the same time. While they were quite plain in the 16th century at the peak of Ottoman power in Europe, the Middle East and Africa, as the empire began to retreat, the aigrette designs grew more ostentatious, the gemstones becoming unbelievably large as if to make up for the loss of political and financial power. Though Sultans, along with the rest of the world, adopted Western clothing, they chose the fez for headgear, and maintained the tradition of the aigrette over this originally Moroccan hat.

Flasks are another traditional item from which some iconic jewellery designs were created by Ottoman craftsman. Picture the ancient nomadic Turkic tribes in the plains of Central Asia, on horseback during their whole lives, and drinking water from their leather flasks. Now put gold and a million jewels on it and take it to the Sultan’s court! The Sultan had a flask-bearer who, during ceremonies, carried his water in this magnificent golden flask of distinctive workmanship. Encrusted with rubies and emeralds set in delicate flowers of golden bezels, it is a masterpiece that truly sets the bar for Turkish jewellery design.

And of course, apart from daggers, mirrors, candlesticks, combs, watches, maces, shields, quivers, parasols and equestrian equipment, there was wearable jewellery. The focus here inevitably shifts to women, whose sparkling tiaras, aigrettes, necklaces and earrings can justly blow your hat off. Imperial weddings were the peak of jewellery exchange, where both the bridegroom and the father of the bride contributed to the impressive trousseau. One distinguishing feature of fashion at the imperial court was that ladies put on many pieces of jewellery, often in differing styles. But the elegance of one particular type of jewellery was unparallelled: the en tremblant brooch. İrepoğlu explains, “A concealed coil or hinge allows the jewel to tremble as the wearer moves: birds with pearl or emerald eyes shimmer, slender flowers and fine diamond-veined leaves quiver almost imperceptibly, wide leaves that adorn the shoulders of the decolleté and of course, the head.”

If you would like to read more, you can find the English edition of ‘Imperial Ottoman Jewellery: Reading History Through Jewellery’ by Gül İrepoğlu in any major bookstore in the city, or order it online at http://www.bkg.com.tr/. If you would like to see more, visit Topkapi Palace Museum, open every day from 9.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m. http://www.topkapisarayi.gov.tr/

The entrepreneur in 2009 also launched the Tory Burch Foundation to support small businesses run by women through grants and micro-financing by investing in the success of their activities and some of the marvelous fabrics found in the Tory Burch collections are produced by these very same women.

Ms. Burch’s personal touch extends to every aspect of her label and even the boutiques were designed to feel more like her living room than a commercial space: moss green floors, plum snow leopard curtains and orange lacquer details are joined by decorative elements such as Japanese vases, gilded mirrors, period shell chairs and side tables. The London flagship boutique, a 4200-square-foot 19th century townhouse on New Bond Street also includes a special VIP area as well as a library furnished with a beautiful knole sofa, a raffia carpet and rich upholstery: impossible not to feel at home in such warm and exquisitely decorated spaces!

Step in to the Tory Burch world, where you will instantly feel you belong and will never want to leave!

Read more about Tory Burch on LUXOS:

5 Questions with Tory Burch
Designer's guide to London
Step out in your Sunday best
Tory Burch's new Italian pad
Tory Burch: check out her new app & lifestyle blog
 

Her trademark high-tone colours have always fascinated me; I am particularly struck by her dazzling spring/summer 2013 fashion show. I asked her if she could tell us more about her personal approach to colour. “Colours, stripes, hearts… they are all part of me,” she explained. “They create a positive environment and happiness.” The truth is that her creations transcend the runways and are much more than just fashion, they are a way of life.



“I was raised in a family who loves art,” she went on. “My father was a great architect and a very important art collector. I think my passion for design was unavoidable.” And this is documented to perfection by her extensive and varied career. But just where does her inspiration come from? “I think that designers have to have their own style to be differentiated,” said de la Prada. “I am constantly inspired by nature and contemporary art.”

As I browsed through her latest collections I also came across some of her older designs for Apple’s campaign in 1994 and her ‘Frimousses de Créatures’ doll for UNICEF’s Darfur efforts. “These collaborations are the best way to create an opportunity to work with the biggest companies, the biggest organizations and the biggest artists.” She has worked with major international brands such as Absolut Vodka for which she not only designed the outfits but was also the model. She has created a few doodles for Google, and material for countless Spanish marques.

Most recently, de la Prada designed the set and costumes for the play Sofocos, currently plahying at Madrid’s Teatro Nuevo Apolo. “It was a big challenge,” she adds. “At the beginning, I thought it was going to be very complicated working with people from the TV world but it has been very easy and enjoyable. I didn’t know the world of television very well, and it has been an amazing experience.”

My interview with Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada came to an end all too quickly. I asked her for some style tips for the season. Her answer was disarmingly uncomplicated. “Nowadays, we have to use old things and mix them with new things.”

The design team behind this luxury brand has won a number of distinguished awards and designed for the coolest rock stars around, from Lenny Kravitz to Madonna, Justin Timberlake to Robbie Williams, Rihanna, Britney, Fergie, Christina Aguilera…and the list goes on in a veritable who’s who of music that matters today! Their creativity has also been tapped by world famous football teams such as Juventus F.C. for on-field uniforms as well as off-field outfits for the players of the venerable Barcelona Futbol Club, undeniably one of the world’s best football teams!

Without a doubt, Dean and Dan Caten’s cool quotient is sky high as their friendships and collaborations with contemporary royalty shows, but without strong foundations in design and a deep understanding of the construction of clothes, not to mention a maniacal attention to minutiae, the uber-cool DSquared2 would not exist. Born in Ontario, Canada the duo moved to New York city to study at the Parson’s School of Design and subsequently went on to hone their craft at the design divisions of some of the most important international fashion labels before establishing their own eponymous maison in 1994.

Go for a liberal dose of chic rebellion!

Their magic lies in capturing that delicate balance between the completely raffish and unabashedly sexy with meticulous construction, sophisticated design and rigorous Italian tailoring techniques. The women’s collection this spring is inspired by the Glamazons of the 90’s, those super models who became icons in their own time; leather, patent leather and lace abound, as well as denim and python skin in structured mini-dresses, Marlon Brando inspired caps, biker jackets and mile high heels with a rock couture edge. The men’s collection shares the same optical black and white palette as well as that rock couture edge enriched with miles of black necklaces, studs and the occasional black orchid adorns cuffs and accessories to stunning effect.
DSquared2 has gone where high fashion never dared to tread before and Dan and Dean Caten have effectively re-invented a genre and deservedly are hailed as two of today’s most original designers!

Read more:

Cooperation with Enoteca Pinchiorri

It is only fitting then, that the most prestigious restaurant in Florence, and one of the absolutely finest in Italy, the Enoteca Pinchiorri has liased with this superb hotel to create an exclusive dining experience for their guests. Annie Féolde, the esteemed restaurant’s Executive Chef was the first female chef outside of France to be awarded three Michelin stars and is the one of the very few women worldwide to be recognised with this important and much coveted accolade, and her husband and partner, Giorgio Pinchiorri has created one of the finest cellars in Europe and the world, that is a veritable treasure trove for wine lovers with its infinite collection of bottles that covers over 4000 of the world’s finest labels!

For this unique collaboration Chef Riccardo Monco and Chef Italo Bassi, who have worked alongside Chef Féolde for over ten years, have concocted a singular 5 course meal that will be indelibly etched in your memory for years to come and the sommeliers Alessandro Giani and Alessandro Tomberli are on hand to ascertain that your wines will be the perfect complement to the delectable dishes created in this kitchen of wonders.

The magic of Florence is timeless and breath-taking, and Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni and Enoteca Pinchiorri will open the doors to an entirely unique and spectacular experience that a very precious few have the opportunity of discovering!

Via Ghibellina, 87, 50122 Florence
Tel. +39 055 242 757

Read more:

View the web pages for Antica Torre di Via Tornabuoni, Florence

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe has a long tradition of complication watches for women. One of its most spectacular is the Ladies Grand Complication, with a movement providing perpetual calendar including leap years and moon phases. The 27.5-millimetre case is delicately enhanced by 68 diamonds on the bezel. The watch is water-resistant to 30 metres, and the movement can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. From the front, it is a beautiful essay in clarity, in gold against the opaline dial.

Harry Winston

Harry Winston's Ocean Sport™ Ladies chronograph gives feminine appeal to traditionally men-oriented functions. The automatic-wound movement powers a complex, multi-level dial, on which hour and minute subdials are balanced by another small dial at 3 o'clock with the shuriken, now part of the Harry Winston DNA. The shuriken is a weapon used by the ninjas, but here it provides a more tranquil indication of the passage of seconds, and above all enables the user to ensure that her watch is running correctly. The beauty of this watch is enhanced by the brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel.

Corum

A different sort of visual fascination is provided by the Corum Admiral's Cup Legend 38 Mystery Moon. In this watch, the dial completes one revolution every 31 days, taking with it the date indication that corresponds to the position of the sun. From here, mother-of-pearl rays emanate towards the earth opposite, with phases of the moon. Extra glitter is provided with diamonds around the bezel in the 12-side case with nautical pennants at the hour-marker corners, and in the stars on the earth disc. The automatic movement can be viewed through the sapphire caseback. A remarkably beautiful version of a series that has been existence for over 50 years, a tribute to the world of sailing.

Cartier

Cartier is a maison that is constantly searching for new heights of beauty both in their jewellery and their watches. The Rotonde de Cartier revives a craft dating back to the Etruscan civilization: granulation. Tiny spheres of gold are formed by heating segments of a piece of gold wire, and then they are assembled onto the gold base plate to form the motif, the panther that figures so strongly in Cartier's history. You have to see it: the result is a miraculous, luscious, warm, radiant piece of art, framed by the diamond-studded bezel. The manually-wound movement's horological excellence is demonstrated by the transparent caseback and the 30-metre water resistance. The piece is in a limited series of 20.

Rolex

The Oyster Perpetual Datejust Lady 31 by Rolex has an automatically-wound mechanical movement, in a 31-millimetre case in steel and 18-carat yellow gold. The bezel is embellished with 24 diamonds arranged according to the hour positions. It inherits the classic Rolex hallmarks: the Oyster waterproof case rated at 100 metres, and the date, introduced by the brand in 1956.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels have a unique approach to time. Instead of watches that simply tell the time, they illustrate the mystery of its passage by means of poetic movements. This year one of their signature pieces is the Ballerine Enchantée, in which a double-retrograde movement powers the butterfly wings over the dancer's tutu. When you push the button at 8 o'clock, the butterfly wings rise in sequence to show the hours on one side, the minutes on the other. The ballerina is beautifully crafted in gold, and decorated in champlevé enamel. While the time functions may seem simple, the movement required a lot of study, in part to achieve the fluidity of movement that makes it so charming, but also for a particularly neat function. You may think that if you activate the mechanism repeatedly, the mainspring would run down faster, but in actual fact this is not the case. Every time you press the button to show the time, you add a little energy to the movement, prolonging the already generous 60-hour power reserve. An extra touch of technical beauty to accompany the diamonds.

Read more:

Highlights from SIHH 2013

Not an athlete or a rock star, but an orchestra conductor, Massimiliano Caldi, whose career has taken him all over the world. Currently principal conductor of the Danzig Philharmonic Orchestra, he began working in his native Milan, to where he returns periodically from far-flung cities. We had the chance of talking to him in his studio in Milan, a brick-vaulted office looking onto one of the city's delightful hidden gardens. The walls are lined with books and scores; there are some display cabinets packed with model cars.

For people outside the world of music, thinking of a conductor conjurs up images of taking bows on a podium, amidst waves of applause. But there is much more, and it's not always like that.

"Of course the applause at the end is gratifying both for me and the orchestra. But sometimes, people have different opinions, and I remember on one occasion, after a rapturous ovation for a performance of Beethoven's Seventh Symphony in Sala Verdi, Milan, an elderly lady made her way to my dressing room afterwards and told me in no uncertain terms that she didn't like it. But that's alright. It's better getting a real reaction, whether good or bad, rather than indifference. Carlo Maria Giulini once said that if listeners say a piece is 'interesting,' there''s something wrong. Music should be good, sometimes heartily disliked, but not 'interesting'... it's like when they say of a woman, she's got lovely hair... you know there's something wrong..."

Could you tell us about your typical day?

"There are two types. On a normal day, rehearsals with the orchestra in the morning, perhaps right through to the early afternoon, with a quick break for a snack. If the production is an opera, rehearsals are later, with the singers. But usually rehearsals end at about three, and, if I'm in Danzig, where I am principal conductor, I work on performance planning and other admin. If I'm elsewhere, I switch on the computer, and catch up with the mail. I spend the rest of the day studying for upcoming concerts. There's a lot to do: this year, from January to May, I'm working on 14 programmes with 8 different orchestras."

Everything changes if it's a performance day?

"That's right. In the morning or early afternoon, there is a general rehearsal. If it's an opera, the general rehearsal is like a performance: you can't stop. You have to go right through from start to end. After the general rehearsal I try to rest, have another look at the score, perhaps pack my luggage if the taxi leaves early the next morning. Then a shower and shave, I put on the tails, and leave for the concert hall."

Do you follow any particular rituals?

"No, not really, at least not before the concert. After, yes; I always go out to a restaurant to celebrate after the performance. Perhaps with the concert hall manager or someone else, but I'm usually on my own. And then, back in the hotel, there is that moment of truth, when you ask yourself, how did it really go? That's a tough one. In front of the audience, you have to pretend that everything was fine, even though you know that there was a part that didn't turn out as you wanted."

As the conductor, do you have to deal with problems at a human level... jealousies and conflicts inside an orchestra?

"In theory it should be the general manager who does that, but very often, he is the cause of tension. Sometimes, musicians come to me and say, maestro, why did you change the time of the general rehearsal, perhaps the strings wanted the new time, but the woodwind are very unhappy about it... and of course it's not my job to organize times and so forth, but very often I have to sort this sort of thing out."

And the baton, that object that defines the conductor and his role. Do you have a favourite baton?

"Yes, I've found one that I always use, it's a question of weight... but actually, you can conduct fine without. With the baton, you usually use the right hand to mark time, the left for expression, but without, your hands are freer. Sometimes at a certain point in the performance, I put the baton down and carry on just with my hands, and there is a sort of rustle of approval from the audience, and they think that this is a really poetic part of the music, then after a bit I pick it up again... but in actual fact, it's just cramp!"

On the night, what is it that transforms a perfect performance into a work of art? Or it the art already in the score?

"No, no, that's precisely the musician's role. Just as the art of a painting requires someone to look at it, and a poem needs someone to read it, the art of music is created by the people playing it. Often, scores are cryptic; Mozart doesn't give you many indications, just piano, forte, allegro... so the conductor has to provide indications on interpretation. Just before a performance, I think of the places where I can give more space to the orchestra, surprising the musicians, and as a result, the audience as well."

Are there jokes about viola players everywhere? (*Scroll down for a few viola jokes).

Yes, all over the world. Violas are often thought of as just a filler between the violins and the cellos and basses... but actually, if you try to bring them out, so that their melodies become significant and not just extra harmony, you get good results, and they play better. Rachmaninov's Second Symphony is virtually a symphony for violas and orchestra, and a lot of Tchaikovsky is the same."

Maestro, you spend a lot of time travelling. I suppose that your nearest and dearest have had to get used to this?

"It's strange, there's always the sadness on departure but my wife is a bit cross when I return... perhaps it's like cats, who turn their nose up when you return home after a trip and they're miffed because you've been away. After a bit, when you return you begin to feel like an intruder.”

Are there conductors who have been points of reference for you?

Oh yes, of course. Riccardo Muti: whenever I have a problem with an orchestra, I ask myself how he would approach it. Conductors of the past, Toscanini and Karajan, who were the first to give the profession characteristics of modernity; they were the first to be managers as well as conductors, dealing with lights, furnishings and so forth."

When did you first realize that your vocation was for conducting?

"I studied piano, playing solo and in chamber ensembles, and I gradually realized that I had the right sort of ear to listen to the other instruments. So I bought some orchestral scores, and began to follow them during concerts, and that was it... I was in love!"

Are there any pieces that give you a special emotion?

"Tchaikovsky's Sixth Symphony. Verdi’s special sound that I have to recreate. Beethoven, the Pastorale, the Fourth Symphony..."

Maestro, on the subject of your personal preferences, could you tell us about the cafés and restaurants that you particularly like in and around Milan?

"Well, in Milan, there is Di' Vino Bacco, a restaurant in Viale Premuda. I love breakfast at Cucchi, on Corso Genova, and at Taveggia. The Camparino bar in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele makes the best coffee in Milan. Bar Basso is great for a club sandwich on Saturday afternoon, and for aperitifs. I like pizza, and I often go to Portobello on Via Plinio, or Da Rita & Antonio in Teatro Dal Verme, the real Neapolitan pizza, small, high and soft. Devero is simply the best restaurant in Lombardy. I like Chinese and Japanese, so I love Mandarin 2 in Via Garofalo. Memo in Via Monte Ortigara is a venue that presents live jazz every evening. Lastly, Gran Galeone in Via Fiamma, not so much for its cuisine but because it's open until 2 a.m., and so I often see other musicians there."

Maestro, I know that as well as model cars, you collect vintage cars. Where would you go for a spin near Milan?

"The pontoon bridge at Bereguardo is a beautiful location, out of this world, above all in winter. Aperitifs in the piazza on the lakeside in Como, or Lecco, or on lake Orta, in the piazza facing the Isle of San Giulio. At Gudo Visconti, there is a superb restaurant, immersed in the fog. Spectacular place."

In the photo above, Massimiliano Caldi in his vintage Fiat Multipla

For further information on Massimiliano Caldi and his work, click here to see his website

Massimiliano Caldi's recommendations:

Caffé & cornetto:

Pasticceria Cucchi
Corso Genova 1, 20123 Milano
Tel. +39 02 8940 9793

Taveggia
Via Uberto Visconti Di Modrone 2, 20122 Milan
Tel. +39 02 7628 0856, +39 331 5065 861

Camparino in Galleria
Piazza Duomo 21, 20121 Milan
Tel. +39 02 8646 4435

Aperitifs and club sandwich:

Bar Basso
Via Plinio 39, 20129 Milan
Tel. +39 02 2940 0580

Pizza:

Portobello
Via Plinio 29, 20129 Milan
Tel. +39 02 2951 3306

Da Rita & Antonio
Via Puccini 2/a, 20121 Milan
Tel. +39 02 875 579

Dining:

Restaurant Di Vino Bacco
Viale Premuda 46, 20129 Milan
Tel. +39 02 799 691

Mandarin2
Via Garofalo 22/a, 20133 Milan
Tel. +39 02 2664 147

Memo Restaurant Music Club
Via Monte Ortigara 30, 201 Milan
Tel. +39 02 5401 9856
The best restaurant for listening to live music while enjoying great food.

Ristorante pizzeria Gran Galeone
Via Fiamma 31, 20129 Milan
Tel. +39 02 7384 898
Useful because it is open until 2.00 a.m.

Outside Milan:

Ristorante Devero
Largo Kennedy 1, 20040 Cavenago di Brianza
Tel. +39 02 9533 5268

Il Visconte
Cascina Longoli, Gudo Visconti (near Milano)
Tel. +39 02 9494 0266

Viola jokes

*A small selection of viola jokes:

How do you keep your violin from getting stolen?
Put it in a viola case.

What's the difference between a seamstress and a violist?
The seamstress tucks up the frills.

Why do people tremble with fear when someone comes into a bank carrying a violin case?
They think he's carrying a machine gun and might be about to use it.
Why do people tremble with fear when someone comes into a bank carrying a viola case?
They think he's carrying a viola and might be about to use it.

What's the difference between a viola and a coffin?
The coffin has the dead person on the inside.

How many violists does it take to make a batch of chocolate chip cookies?
Ten. One to stir the batter and nine to peel the M & M's.

What's the definition of a minor second?
Two violists playing in unison.

A violinist noticed at the end of each rehearsal break, one of the violists would look at the inside pocket of his jacket before he sat down to resume rehearsal. This continued for several decades, and the violinist became quite curious about it. One day, during hot weather, the violist took off his jacket and went off on break. The violinist waited until everyone was off the platform, looked around, and sneaked over to the jacket. He pulled at the lapel, saw a little note pinned onto the inner pocket. It read: "viola left hand, bow right."

Jokes courtesy of www.mit.edu

Join us in a unique experience back in time as we take you for a stroll through torturously narrow streets, past Renaissance and Baroque buildings to monumental squares and hidden convents as we uncover traces of the old capital.

We begin from Plaza de Opera, which is home to the Teatro Real. Continuing onto Calle Vergara we come upon the Royal Palace with its magnificent gardens (Campo del Moro and the Sabatini gardens). Leaving the palace to our right and proceeding past the PATIO DE ARMAS courtyard which is a great place to enjoy the scenery – take a glimpse of Campo del Moro and the Sierra Mountains before arriving at the Cathedral of Almudena in Calle Mayor. Directly to your right you will see the beautiful Plaza de la Villa and Casa Cisneros built in 1537 in the ornate Plateresque style and the 15th Century Mudejar style Torre de Lujanes. Moving ahead along Calle de Codo we arrive at Plaza del Conde de Miranda with the evocative convent of the Carboneras del Corpus Christi, and just a few steps beyond we discover the popular Plaza de San Miguel with its remarkable GastroMarket. Further along we reach the majestic Plaza Mayor, where the Bakery House will catch your eye with its colourful facade, angular turrets and of course Felipe III’s equestrian statue at the centre of the square.

Exiting on the North side of the square we can visit the church of San Ginés and the convent of the Royal Barefoot Nuns, from here we have a mandatory appointment at Chocolatería San Ginés for authentic hot chocolate and churros. If, on the other hand, we exit Plaza Mayor on its Southern side we will stumble onto the oldest area of the district – La Latina. It was here where the Moors established their headquarters during their conquest. Moving along to Calle Toledo, we find two of Madrid’s oldest and most famous ‘alpargaterías’, or espadrille shops. In these shops reminiscent of another era you’ll find espadrilles in all the colours of the rainbow. You’ll find it practically impossible to leave without a pair!

Moving down along Calle Toledo and turning right on Calle del Gramal we reach the heart of the area. This is one of the liveliest nightlife areas where you can also admire the city’s history and charm. Though you won’t find too many restaurants in the vicinity, we must absolutely point out Casa Lucio, where if you are lucky you may bump into the King Don Juan Carlos. Though this may be an extravagant experience, savouring the best tapas that Madrid has to offer should not be! Nothing beats a good aperitif in the many bars along the historic streets of Cava Alta and Cava Baja. These streets and others like Plaza de los Carros, Plaza de la Paja and Calle de la Morería preserve the urban structure established by the Moors. In fact, in several places you can still see remains of the old Moorish wall that ran along the Cathedral of Almudena between Calle Bailén and Cuesta de la Vega.

CASA LUCIO
Cava Alta, 35
You could run into King Juan Carlos here. Spectacular Madrilenian cuisine, rich in gastronomic tradition

POSADA DE LA VILLA
Cava Baja, 9
Located in an 18th century mill, that was converted into Madrid’s first inn.

JULIÁN DE TOLOSA
Cava Baja, 18
Historic grill house designed by the architect Jose Carlos Goyeneche

CHOCOLATERÍA SAN GINÉS
Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5
The most famous hot chocolate and churros in the city.

CASA HERNANZ
Calle Toledo, 18
Espadrilles and rope shop: espadrilles, baskets and bags in a vast range of colours, crafted using traditional techniques.

LOBO
Calle Toledo, 30
Espadrilles shop. A plethora of styles and colours that will make it difficult to make a single choice.

CASA DIEGO
Puerta del Sol, 12
Fans, umbrellas and Manila shawls. This company has crafted goods for international royalty, including the Spanish royal family.
 

It's complicated

At the very top end, there are some superb grand complications this year, such as the spectacular piece by A. Lange & Sohne, with 16 complications including a minute repeater, in a limited edition of just six pieces.

Minute repeaters were very much in view, amongst which Piaget's superb Emperador Coussin Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater. The brand has long been accustomed to setting world records for its ultra-thin Altiplano watches, and their Minute Repeater follows suit, with double records for calibre and case thinness. The automatic in-house Calibre 1290P comprises 407 parts, with some wheels about the same thickness as a human hair.

Audemars Piguet presented the Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication, a watch that combines a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater, and a split-time chronograph, all in the sporty octagonal case that has hallmarked the Royal Oak family since Gerald Genta's inspired design in 1971.

Feminine transparency

Many of the new pieces introduced for female customers have transparent casebacks, an indication of women's growing interest in mechanical watches. Several brands reported that more and more women are wearing men's watches, and this is something that makes all watchmakers happy (as long as they buy their own and don't borrow their partners' timepieces!)

In the Enchanted Ballerina by Van Cleef & Arpels, time becomes poetry. A double-retrograde time-on-demand movement powers the butterfly wings over the dancer's tutu. When you push the button, the butterfly wings rise in a carefully-orchestrated choreography to show the hours on one side, the minutes on the other, marked by diamond-studded indices.

Reflecting the trend towards transparency, the maison is imparting what were once close to being industry secrets, its cherished craft techniques, to all those interested in learning about their exquisite watches, with their École, which, from its base in Paris, will tour the world. The idea is simple: if a prospective client understands the vast amount of crafts skill that goes into a watch, the purchase will have a much greater significance.

Cartier has brought an ancient technique back to life with the stunning Rotonde de Cartier, in which granulation is used to depict a panther on the dial. Tiny gold beads are made from gold threads cut and heated over a flame, and then assembled and fused to a gold base plate. The result is a fascinating, sensuous, powerful image.

The Rendez-Vous watch by JaegerLeCoultre is a new interpretation of an earlier piece, the Hollywood. In Rendez-Vous, you turn the diamond-set bezel to move a marker in the shape of a star, so that you can set an appointment. A celestial sky-map adds to the complexity and beauty of this piece.

Tourbillon theatricality

The tourbillon has long been a favourite for providing visual interest in a watch, becoming its mysterious beating heart. Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 is an incredible piece,whose two-axis tourbillon in a spherical cage has no bridge, so that it seems to be floating in the movement. One of the unbelievable features is a spherical balance wheel inside a spherical hairspring. The watch has a chronograph with a digital minutes counter. The time is shown on an offset dial, and there is a day-night indicator disc. The gyrotourbillon alone has 75 components, the chronograph 400.

Richard Mille's dramatic RM 59-01 Yohan Blake Tourbillon is a limited edition of 50 pieces, with the bridges supporting the tourbillon cage in green and yellow livery, celebrating the Jamaican sprinter. Panerai presented a remarkable combination of tradition and high-tech in its Pocket Watch Tourbillon GMT Ceramica, a super-modern design for an antique format, providing a second time zone, and power reserve indicator. The zirconium oxide ceramic case is enclosed by a sapphire glass and caseback that reveal the intricacies of the hand-wound movement.

Roger Dubuis presented the Quator, in the Excalibur collection. A remarkable piece that attacks the challenge of gravity (to which the tourbillon was Abraham-Louis Breguet's brilliant solution) in a different way: four balance springs, working in pairs, and positioned in a way to compensate for its differential effects.

IWC's Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon has an integrated constant-force mechanism which increases precision, but requires higher torque. This is provided by two barrels, also providing the extra power for the beautiful moon phase subdial.
The new movement has a power reserve display that indicates just how much of the massive 96-hour reserve is left.

The IWC Ingenieur collection this year is hallmarked by the partnership with the Mercedes AMG Petronas racing team, providing important technological and visual crossover. A different type of cooperation with fast cars can be seen in the Bugatti Vitesse by Parmigiani Fleurier, with its radically new design. The dial is positioned at 90° with respect to the usual position, so that it is visible while driving without having to move your wrist.

Accessibility

While prices at the top end of haute horlogerie continue to rise, some brands are making superb watches at very accessible prices. Probably the most striking example is Montblanc, with the Star collection: the Quantième Complet, which includes date, day, month, and moon phase, retailing at just €3,850 for the stainless steel version. A clear invitation to the younger end of the population to begin their own exciting adventure in mechanical watches.

Info:
SIHH 2013 was held in Geneva from 21 to 25 January 2013. The next large fine watches show is Baselworld, running from 25 April to 2 May in Basel.

Since the 15th century, when the Belgian Louis Van Berquem invented a cutting method that enhanced the dazzle of gemstones, diamonds have been inextricably linked to human history. Today, marketing has made diamond-collecting a passion that cuts across national boundaries, gender and age. In this article, we would like to introduce you to another side of the diamond family: coloured diamonds. Their history can be traced back to the ancient Indian empire, when they were used as a tribute to the gods in the temples. In the 18th century a French jewellery merchant, Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, completed a long journey to bring an uncut 115-carat blue diamond back to Europe, where it was sold to Louis XIV, king of France. Under the king’s command, it was re-cut into a 67.125-carat blue diamond, named the French Blue. Since then it became part of the French royalty’s jewellery treasures. After the French Revolution, the Blue Diamond was stolen and disappeared for two decades, resurfacing when it was purchased by the rich London banker Thomas Hope. By this stage it had once again been re-cut to 45.52 carats, and it subsequently became known as the Hope Diamond. After many changes of hands, the rare dark blue diamond was purchased in 1949 by New York jeweller Harry Winston. Nine years later he donated it to the Smithsonian Institution. The intricate history of the Hope Diamond shows just how closely these gemstones are connected to mankind.

Ordinary consumers are generally not aware of the value of coloured diamonds, because they represent only a very small portion of the total diamond production. They can be found in South Africa, India, Australia and Brazil. Colour in natural diamonds is created by impurities, present in tiny proportions, or defects in the crystal’s lattice structure.

Today, about 12 types of fancy coloured diamonds are recognized, with nine different colour shades in naturally-occurring diamonds. The most common type is yellow diamond, caused by the inclusion of nitrogen atoms. While the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) classifies low-saturation yellow and brown diamonds as in the normal colour range, adding a colour grading scale, white diamonds have their own 4C grading scale. The intensity and quality of colour determines the value of a stone, ranging from the highest level, fancy vivid, through to fancy intenseand fancy light. A stone’s GIA certificate indicates the level of its natural colour, from which its value can be determined.

Blue diamonds, relatively rare, are discoloured by boron impurities. The Hope Diamond is an example, but its size of 45.52 carats makes it extremely unusual, because blue diamonds are usually small. Blue diamonds are also divided into several different grades of colour: for example, the Hope Diamond is greyish-blue. After centuries, this particular stone is still unique in the world.

Pink diamonds are the result not of impurities, but of changes in the molecular lattice structure that are still not entirely understood by scientists. In any case, pink diamonds are very rare, more so than other coloured diamonds, and their prices have hit record highs in auctions over the last few years.

The most expensive pink diamond in the world is a 24.78 carat pink diamond ring, which fetched $46 million at a Sotheby’s auction in 2010. Pink diamonds are coveted by collectors, and they are amongst the best performers in auctions. Their attraction depends on their colour, but preferences change, and each auction affects market prices. David Morris Asia Development Manager Paul Redmayne-Mourad said, “The pink diamond is one of the hardest to price among coloured diamonds. At every auction, the price attained immediately determines the new market value of pink diamonds, and so they attract even more attention from collectors in recent years.” The most prized type is the purplish-pink diamond. If this particular colour is classified as fancy intense, it becomes a genuine treasure.

The rarest coloured diamonds of all are red diamonds, possibly unheard of by the general public. Up until today, less than 30 are known to exist in the world, the largest of which reaches five carats. The colour of red diamonds is also caused by changes in the molecular structure. A red diamond is always a collector’s dream. In 1987, the 0.95-carat Hancock Red Diamond, discovered in Brazil, was auctioned for $880,000 at Christie’s, a record high of $926,000 per carat. This record remained unbroken for over 20 years. Mr. Hancock had purchased his red diamond for just $13,500 in 1956. Because of their rarity, red diamonds are hard to find in ordinary jewellery stores or auction houses. Though their prestige among collectors is unparalleled, there are no accepted standard definitions of their colour. Consequently they are assessed in terms of Hancock Red Diamond standards, considered as being the best colour of all. Secondary colour classifications are not applied to red diamonds. Their absolute value places them right at the top of the fancy coloured diamonds scale.

According to Redmayne-Mourad, “In recent years, coloured diamond prices have been rising exponentially, fuelled particularly by Asian collectors in search of pink and blue diamonds.” The value of coloured diamonds cannot be determined from charts or tables, because they depend primarily on auction prices. Preferences for colours change with nationality: Asian collectors prefer pink diamonds, those from the Middle East like yellow, while in the United States there is a preference for blue diamonds. Geographical factors therefore also affect the value of coloured diamonds and their investment potential. We advise collectors to explore ceaselessly in order to have a chance of snatching up the crown of an auction.

Info box:
Say it with coloured diamonds
What created the shades?
Nitrogen – yellow
Boron – blue
Changes in the molecular structure – pink or red
 

David Yurman was a sculptor before he fortuitously turned to jewellery design and learned his craft from such welder sculptors as Ernesto Gonzales, Jacques Lipschitz and Theodore Rozack, later opening his own studio in New York’s bohemian Greenwich Village. It was when he designed a belt buckle for his girlfriend Sybil, that their path took a different course; she received so many compliments for it that Yurman began exploring a new way of working with metal and started selling his pieces at art galleries and craft fairs; a far cry from the magnificent Madison Avenue townhouse flagship boutique that is now home to the David Yurman fine jewellery and timepiece collections as well as bridal jewellery, luxury eyewear and the brand’s alluring scents.

In 1983 Mr. Yurman created the signature Cable bracelet, a twisted helix in sterling silver and 18-carat gold with gemstones on its ends. It was a turning point as this simple yet enticing bracelet became, and continues to be, all the rage amongst discerning connoisseurs of all things exquisite. The cable motif is the foundation of the Yurman brand, which has since then gone on to create pieces that are a reflection of the designer’s superlative creativity, with a focus on exceptional quality, attention to detail and a undisputable sense of timelessness. In 2004 Evan Yurman, the founders’ son, joined the company bringing his unique vision and aesthetic to it, and he leads David Yurman’s Men’s, Timepiece and Bridal collection while working closely with his father in the creation of limited-edition couture styles as well as the eyewear collection. The brand also offers a line of delightful and unique fragrances in jewel tones that are as beautiful as they are a joy to the senses. Entering the David Yurman world is a unique experience and one that will bring a whole new sense of beauty, innovation and artistry to your life.
 

The ability to intrinsically understand who the right people for the job are is a reflection of any great entrepreneur’s capacities. And Diego Della Valle could not have chosen a more fitting team than Inès de la Fressange, a legendary beauty with brains, and Bruno Frisoni, a designer of extraordinary vision and simplicity, when he decided to re-launch the Vivier brand, which he acquired in 2000. Unbeknownst to either of them he met and interviewed them individually and listened as both spoke highly of each other, based solely on their mutual reputations. Thus the deal was done and Ms. de la Fressange became the brand’s Ambassadress and Mr. Frisoni its designer. One can call this serendipity, but more likely it is a gift of the very savvy.

“Who doesn’t know Inès?” asks Mr. Frisoni quite rightly. After all, Karl Lagerfeld personally chose her as Chanel’s first official muse, and then the French authorities selected her likeness to represent France’s everywoman and National symbol, Marianne. She is charming and modest to a fault. Her vivacious personality and brio are contagious, as she nonchalantly and quite sincerely laughs away the endless praises for her beauty and utterly impeccable style, in perfect English, with just a touch of a French accent that makes her appeal all the more alluring. When asked about her enviable dress sense, in a burst of laughter she exclaims: “ME?! I am just an old lady who wakes up every morning and like most women stares at her cupboard in despair thinking I have nothing to wear!” She lowers her voice as she shares the secret to her style: “I have been working in fashion for a long time and I figured out what works best for me and stick to it. You see, I am just very lazy!” Voilà! Vivier’s Ambassadress may well be a lazy dresser, but her unique vision of the world and perspicacity also make her an astute business woman who adds her own personal touch to Roger Vivier, ensuring not just success, but a success tinged with Ms. De la Fresange’s 'je ne sais quoi' and sense of fun. Take the decision to chauffeur her VIP guests to the opening of the Paris boutique not in limos, but double decker buses and the ultimate French car, the one and only Deux Cheveaux, to then be greeted by a hot pink and black zebra patterned ‘red carpet’ on arrival. Or the choice of interviewing all the sales staff personally as she was tired of dealing with sulky, snobby and rude salespeople. She also knew Mr. Vivier personally and knowing the man, means that she has a special understanding of the brand she is Ambassador to. “He was a darling gentleman, polite and sweet, so low profile, not a diva but a modest man with a very open mind.”

Which could be a description of Bruno Frisoni, a soft-spoken man with over-sized spectacles, a tall, lean frame, and a self-effacing quality that is beguiling as it is refreshing. One cannot help but wonder how such stunning, show-stopping creations can come out of this unassuming and gracious man, with a sharp sense of humour who shares Mr. Vivier’s love of couture, fabrics, flowers and textures – as well as an understanding of women’s singular and occasionally mind-boggling relationship with their shoes. A perfectionist who never sits on his laurels, but through his watercolours is constantly exploring the infinite variety of creative possibilities that are made more boundless by his endless imagination.

The secret to balancing the Vivier heritage and ethos with the brand’s contemporary allure, says Ms. De la Fressange, is to “not respect the past too much, like a religion, but to simply have faith in it”; words to live by and which have made Inès and Bruno Frisoni the perfect keepers of the Roger Vivier flame by virtue of their talent, verve and vision.
 

Brioni, the Italian maison famous for its jacket, redefines this most important piece of formalwear. The 'capospalla' has been reinterpreted as the season's new 'Jardigan,' crafted in fine wool crepe. Simple, clean and unlined, it is easy-going like a cardigan, yet sophisticated like a jacket. Pick a beautiful colour such as coral, and you are ready to ride into the sunset. Equally carefree and even more elegant is the Piuma jacket. Imagine dressing in the lightest, finest silks without the weight of a heavy blazer, the new Piuma jacket comes with two buttons and deconstructed shoulder and lapel. Polos, capris, knitwear - Brioni offers a travel-friendly and business-perfect wardrobe this spring/summer with functionality. From waterproofness to reversability, you can be a self-made man with a style all your own.

The new Burberry Tailoring service makes a stylish suit as easy as one, two, three. Enjoy a new experience in store with Burberry's tailoring specialist, who takes you through the collection available in three silhouettes: slim, modern and classic. Iconic patterns like Prince of Wales, herringbone, houndstooth and pinstripe have never looked so chic in the slim fit. Not only can you can choose from over 40 beautiful fabrics, you can also pick up your new suit within 48 hours, or have it delivered to your office. Designed in the UK and hand-finished in Italy, Burberry Tailoring offers the best of both worlds for the man on-the-run.

Inspired by silk's unique airiness, fluidity and sensuality, Ermenegildo Zegna has created something truly unique with one of the most beloved fabrics of summer. ZegnaSilk is produced and coloured exclusively in Italy with featherweight 10-micron yarns. The result is the epitome of silk: incredibly glossy, tactile and versatile. Wide-lapeled jackets, slim trousers, printed polo shirts and beautiful pocket squares are crafted with this star fabric for a truly mix and matchable collection.

Pastel jackets, gingham-lined blazers, mosaic shirts… Pal Zileri's spring/summer 2013 collection sounds like Italian art, each piece painted in the lightest greys, blues, lavenders and pinks. Formalwear has never been so sensual. Let your imagination fly with the lightest and most luxurious materials such as wool-linen-mohair and wool-silk-linen blends. And when it's time to let your guards down, strechy, waterproof and trendy are the keywords for casualwear. The collection is a superlative in lightness, comfort and sophistication.

Ford. Tom Ford. The international man of design's eponymous label is as cool as the Secret Agent 007 this season with brilliant colours and a lot of style. Worn by Daniel Craig in the motion picture 'Skyfall,' the O'Connor suit has an enthusiastic following ever since its debut. And no wonder, a few of Tom Ford's favourite things are featured in this ultra slim and single breasted suit: sky-high peak lapel, colourful pocket square and skinny shirt with French cuffs. Luxurious fabrics such as wool linen silk, silk canvas and silk hemp hopsack exalt daring colours. Ivory and pale blue, antique rose and lilac, lavender and misty pink, the O'Connor suit is as exuberant as it is weightless.

While a top-to-toe transformation might be too drastic, introduce a new style into your wardrobe one piece at a time. The lining-less jacket, the capri trouser or chinos, an exuberant pocket square, a bright cardigan... Dressing light and right is easier than you think.

Some watch brands have already presented their Baselworld previews, with some interesting models. French brand 4N will present their 4N MVT01/42, in which what looks like a scrambled jumble of yellow numerals miraculously come together at the centre of the dial, in a jumping minutes and hours display. Everything inside is shamelessly revealed through the sapphire glass. The strap has a quick-change system and it is available in various materials.

HYT presents a new version of their pump-it-up H1 in pink gold and black titanium. This watch mixes classical watchmaking with fluid mechanics. Two reservoirs at 6 o'clock push fluorescent liquid through a capillary tube that runs around the dial, marking the hours. Minutes are shown at the centre, and small seconds on a small dial that looks like a waterwheel.

Breguet's Type XXII 3880 combines a tough and modern look with some technical innovations, such as a 10 Hz frequency for greater precision, and a chronograph second hand that sweeps the dial in 30 seconds, with red and white markers identifying the two successive rotations.

Blancpain's Chronographe Grande Date for women combines a beautiful mother-of-pearl dial featuring waves of diamonds rippling out from the centre, with an offset hour and minute display at the top, and interestingly abstract chronograph counters. A petal-shaped oscillating weight can be seen through the sapphire crystal back, within a red gold case.

Corum's legendary baguette movement now includes an inline winding system with two oscillating weights that operate together. The movement is held at the centre of the case by four titanium cross-bars, creating the impression of a suspended mechanism, accentuated by the transparency of the case.

Eberhard & Co. present the Chrono 4 Géant Full Injection, which, like IWC, reveals massive influence from the world of cars. This limited edition of 500 pieces has case and buckle coated in black DLC, while the black dial is dominated by the 4 horizontally-aligned counters for chronograph minutes, hours, 24 hours and small seconds.

Hamilton's Jazzmaster Face2face is an interesting departure, with two dials, one more modern, one more classical. Two automatic calibres, chrono and 3-hand movement, that simply swing round when you feel like a change. Complete with an attractive black leather strap with blue lining and top-stitching.

Harry Winston's Histoire de Tourbillon 4 is the latest in what will become a collection of five tourbillon watches. The sapphire crystal includes a dome highlighting a tourbillon inside three concentric cages, rotating at different speeds, and at different angles. A power reserve indicator at 3-4 o'clock shows just how much energy is left in the movement, powered by two barrels for higher power and lower friction.

Lastly, a mechanical watch for Batman, the T-1000 Gotham by Rebellion. The solid black DLC-coated titanium case houses a movement driving two rollers that indicate the time, with balance wheel at 6 o'clock. The hand-wound movement has an amazing 1,000-hour power reserve, a world first, provided by six barrels. Limited edition of 25 pieces.

And this is just a tantalizing taste, who knows the horological wonders that will be on show in Basel from 25 April to 2 May? We'll be there to keep you informed!

Read more watch and jewellery articles

So don’t shy away from florals! This season the best luxury designers have interpreted this manly motif each in their own unique way, and there is something for the most flamboyant of you, as well as the very, very conservative of you!

Trust Bottega Veneta to get it right with low-key colours and classic silhouettes. Just the hint of a floral pattern, subtly distinct on powdery beige cardigans and slim fit trousers as well as a shirt that plays with a darker though still delicate palette of greys.

Or you can go the DSquared route and punch up an otherwise black and white combo with stand-alone detailing in denim: flowers in lieu of a tie for a thoroughly contemporary edge.

Gucci and Lanvin take a more vibrant and colourful approach to floral; Gucci punches it up in oranges and reds against a bright white background for a sleek and chic summer look for trousers and easy jackets while Lanvin presents a lively turquoise flocked flower pattern against a black background in a t-shirt and matching trousers. (Below, Gucci).

Below, Lanvin:

Paul Smith is a designer who in the last few decades has turned men’s fashion on its head and managed to add a playful and creative streak to classic silhouettes and brought a new elegance to the fore. Trust this British designer’s unique eye and combine a deep navy double-breasted jacket with a floral button down shirt: absolutely no tie; the pattern of the shirt does all the talking that needs to be done!

Established in faraway 1932, Canali is an historic Italian label and today the brand lends their sartorial know how and experience to tailor indubitably modern and cosmopolitan styles that maintain that delicate balance between timeless and trendy elegance. For spring summer this year Canali presents florals for the evening: a luxurious silk jacquard cocktail jacket with a retro feel in sumptuously regal yellow.

Whether your taste veers towards the unexpected and daring or towards more staid and understated, you cannot go wrong with floral patterns this season; and remember, flowers were never meant women only!

The Hempel, London

Not far from Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, The Hempel, London, with design by Anouska Hempel, whose portfolio also includes Blakes Hotel in the same city, is one of the few London hotels to have its own garden, the first minimalist garden design in the city. It features a slightly Zen arrangement of lawns and pathways, with compositions of box, bay and other plants.

Sheraton Diana Majestic, Milan

Art Nouveau is the quintessentially flowery style in architecture, and the Sheraton Diana Majestic in Milan is a good example of the style. But the natural greenery is even more beautiful, a lovely interior garden with fountain, trees, a gigantic, century-old wisteria, and a lot of society events. The garden is home to the h club >diana lounge, popular for aperitifs from 7.00 p.m. to 10.00 p.m. in the evening, and for the legendary brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.

Hotel Unico, Madrid

The exclusive boutique hotel Unico Madrid has a quiet. immaculate courtyard garden, onto which the Ramón Freixa Madrid 2-Michelin-starred restaurant faces. Enjoy sumptuous recipes by the Catalan chef, such as textured tomatoes in summer. The hotel has several salons overlooking the garden, ideal for a break after shopping in the chic Salamanca district.

Çırağan Palace Kempinski Istanbul

Çırağan Palace is the only imperial palace hotel in Turkey, and it is the last example of an Ottoman palace – in the 19th century, the sultans preferred to build new palaces instead of living in those of their ancestors. Çırağan Palace has a large garden protected by a high wall on the city side, and looks directly onto the Bosphorus. The garden includes a spectacular infinity pool in which you have the impression of swimming directly in the straits. You can even enjoy the garden in winter, in the heated cabanas.

Relais Christine, Paris

Relais Christine is a 16th-century residence that was built on the ruins of the Austin Friars monastery, founded in 1231 by Saint Louis. Today it is a family hotel, and one of its most extraordinary jewels is the small, flower-decked garden, a secret lying behind the façade. The Garden Suite has a private terrace looking onto the garden, a blissful place for breakfast in spring and summer.

Browse more LUXOS partner hotels

RUBY RED
The colour of passion and power, who does red better than Valentino? So much is this hue associated with the great couturier, that Valentino red has become part of everyday language and denotes a specific and unmistakable point on the colour scale. This season Valentino red comes alive once again in a sumptuous leather trench coat, irresistible evening dresses in rich, sensual fabrics and exotic snakeskin clutch bags that are utterly Valentino.

OPULENT ORANGE
The quintessence of summer, orange is warm and reassuring like the sun as well as having a regal edge to it. Loewe is celebrated the world over for its timeless bags in the finest Spanish leathers, as well as a ready to wear collection that speaks of the brand’s unique understanding of workmanship. This season, Loewe sent stunning styles down the runway in burnished orange suede including a masterfully tailored dress with hoodie, trench coats, blazers and long shorts that flatter as they caress the body with suede’s suppleness.

YUMMY YELLOW
Orange’s sprightlier sister, yellow is endlessly joyful in its infinite spectrum, from daffodils to precious gold, it’s ultimate incarnation. And at eternally chic Dior the colour palette is a delightful cornucopia of the season’s key nuances, and plays with shades within shades, presenting a gamut of yellows from a striking metallic lemon cocktail top to a fluorescent yellow laser cut dress to the undeniably Dior quilted clutch in buttercup calfskin.

GORGEOUS GREEN
Few colours express the arrival of spring as green does and Burberry this season captures the essence of renewal with a selection of outerwear in a verdant spectrum. Don’t miss the ultra refined and chic trench coat in seductive emerald lace or the futuristic raincoat in asparagus hued metallic leather for the rock-chic urban princess and a unique textured leather bolero in chartreuse and bottle green that is the epitome of cool.

BLISSFUL BLUE
Pal Zileri plays with an entire range of blues this summer -one of nature’s most generous and glorious palettes - from the palest sky blue for classically tailored shirts to impeccably cut periwinkle linen blazers as well as a cobalt blue suede jacket that captures just the right combination of suave and sophisticated. Complemented by a range of tonal accessories from scarves to ties, the collection hits the perfect note for dapper gentlemen all over the world.

INGENIOUS INDIGO
The preferred shade of the powerful since antiquity, indigo is a majestic hue that is both warm and intoxicating. Tom Ford’s aesthetic is instantly recognizable: his thoroughly modern designs are immaculately polished as he masterfully balances the sexy with the genteel and his clothes for both men and women are enticingly alluring. This season he uses indigo to powerful effect in show stopping pieces from red-carpet cocktail dresses, to oversized shoulder bags in crocodile and debonair suits for the cosmopolitan gent.

But, leaving aside the marketing, scents for guys are changing. Years ago, men's cologne was always a clean, 'freshly-showered' and spicy blend, perhaps with notes of tobacco, patchouli, sandalwood and musk, but pretty much the classic cologne. Today, men are going floral. Jo Malone's floral fragrances are mainly feminine floral, but their 1995 classic Amber & Lavender for men (in the photo below) includes lavender and lily-of-the-valley along with its tougher base notes of myrrh, patchouli and amber.

Burberry Brit (2004, still a classic, shown in the grey photo further up) has a distinct note of wild rose. This year, Burberry use gorse flower in Summer for Men, in combination with yuzu leaves, mandarin and mint.

Dolce & Gabbana go fashion-forward floral with Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme, in which the floral notes combine with herbal and a touch of citrus, over a base of pepper and tobacco. In a way it confirms the way a lot of fragrance is going: unisex. Just like women are wearing their partners' watches, they're spraying on their cologne as well.

Kenzo enjoy contrasts in their fragrances, and KenzoPower is no exception, juxtaposing the 'power' word with a floral scent that though subdued by its blend with bergamot, spice and cedar, still allows the rose, jasmine and freesia to shine through.

Spring/summer 2013 features a move eastwards, at least as men's fragrances are concerned, towards tropical notes such as cardamom, ginger and leather, but also towards fruit like mango and peach, and floral notes including violet, rose and heliotrope. Not all fashion brands are prepared to highlight flower power for men. The question is, when you are faced with a floral fragrance, are you man enough to wear it?

Honeysuckle photo courtesy of Alexandre Dulaunoy/flickr.com

Read more:

British perfumier James Heeley
Oud, an enchanting scent

The Etro sensibility stands in a world of its own. The use of colours and patterns is extraordinary, and designer Veronica Etro for her spring summer collection has selected an absolutely gorgeous butterfly print against a pristine white background and transformed it into beautifully polished outfits with an innate sense of lightness with just a touch of a Bohemian edge! Our favourite from the runway has to be this Asian inspired tunic shirt, cinched in at the waist with a white leather tie-belt, teamed with tonal three-quarter length trousers. So simple, so chic!

The refinement of Dior is legend and Raf Simons in his first collection for the venerable maison sent beautifully crafted confections down the runway that hit the right note between sensual and sweet, while maintaining an inescapably sophisticated core. Impeccably tailored in gorgeous fabrics with a rich hand, our pick for your Sunday best has to be the fun yet sublimely elegant pink and black striped dress. With a full A-line skirt, that sits just above the knee and a masterful construction that give movement and life to the stripes: you’ll be the envy of your friends at Easter brunches and more!

Leather was an important story at Emma Hill’s Mulberry collection this spring/summer and one of our favourites is this quietly glam and supremely sophisticated combo. The silver and gold flowers of the printed jacquard peacoat, illuminate the outfit and the matching bag is the perfect accent that completes the whole. The buttery leather trousers feel like a second skin, as they hang effortlessly away from the body and the delicate caramel palette is perfect for day and evening!

Another Luxos favourite of the season is Missoni’s subtly degradé dress in sumptuous suede; the delicate tangerine and apricot hues and the signature Missoni knit detailing in bright white is utterly irresistible! A shift dress is forever, a friend who will even let you eat a little extra and no one will be the wiser!

And of course, a lady can never be without a handbag! Go for Tory Burch’s top handle white tote embellished with a cheerful wheat pattern. With a practical front pocket enriched by a gold toned clasp, it is the perfect accessory to hold your all-important Sunday essentials. Tory Burch said it best herself: “I love what wheat and yellow represent –optimism!” and what is getting dressed up in your Sunday best about if not consummate optimism?

St. Moritz has an airport for private jets, but you can also reach the location by train (the Bernina Express, the little red train that runs from Tirano in Italy, is a memorable trip), bus and car. If you are driving from Italy, you will probably take the Maloja pass, an amazingly scenic route that culminates in an ascent with 21 hairpin bends. (The road that the Ancient Romans built had just three!) At Maloja, the official language is Italian, but as you get closer to St. Moritz, Switzerland's complex linguistic structure becomes even more intricate, with Romansh – an ancient language with similarities to Latin, and Switzerland's fourth language – the official language in 11 villages.

Of course, lots of people speak English. They're used to receiving a lot of international tourists. This is partly because St. Moritz and environs has the incredible figure of 322 days of sunshine every year. When it's foggy or cloudy in the valleys, in St. Moritz you can enjoy the sun.

This makes snow and ice sports even more fun. Starting from the slowest option, walking. Where better than Muottas Muragl, which you reach from Punt Muragl with a rack-and-pinion railway. Muottas Muragl is a sort of Alpine balcony at 2,456 metres above sea level, with amazing views over St. Moritz and its frozen lakes. From here, the Philosopher's Trail, open in its snowy winter version up until 1 April, is prepared every day so that it is walkable in ordinary winter footwear. From here you can admire the incredible Alpine views, across the valleys and up to peaks such as Piz Bernina. The Easter weekend is your last chance: 1st April is the last day of operation for this winter season, and the trail will reopen on 8 June for the summer season when there will be Alpine flowers in the place of snow.

There are also walking routes that start from Zuoz and St. Moritz, and, higher up, in the ski-ing areas of Corviglia and Corvatsch, where, if you like wearing boots and crampons, you'll have a field day. More exhilarating pursuits include paragliding and hang-gliding: just contact the clubs who organize the tandem flights and they'll provide you with the information on weather conditions.

After a day of sports, there is nothing better than an afternoon at a spa. St. Moritz became famous for its therapeutic spas, which have been known for almost 3,500 years. Enjoy a fantastic spa and sauna landscape at Kempinski The Spa, part of the Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains. Facilities include a herb sauna at 72°C and a Finnish sauna at 95-100°C, a bio sauna, rock sauna, steam bath and laconium. At Samedan, near St. Moritz, the Mineralbad Samedan is a fascinating vertically-arranged aqua itinerary that ends in a heated mineral pool in the open air, on the rooftop, with views to the village church tower and the mountains beyond.

To end, of course, dinner. Restaurants in the area are often rustic in appearance, with lots of timber, but the menus are superb, reaching great refinement, accompanied by excellent white and red wines. Swiss wines are good, but production is often of the 'heroic' variety with vines extending up steeply from the valley floor, and volumes limited. The Swiss drink all the good stuff themselves, which is why Swiss wines are not well known abroad. Don't miss the chance to savour it while you're there.

Photos courtesy of Engadin St. Moritz, swiss-image.ch

Learning that a significant number of his clients come from outside London, we inquire about the reasons for this. “James Bond springs to mind,” replies Sudre with a grin. “London is home to the ‘gentleman culture;’ Mayfair and Sloane Street have always been magnets for the luxury-seeking shopper. Visitors to the capital seek for heritage brands that reflect a very British lifestyle. Think Savile Row for bespoke suiting, and other refined UK luxury brands such as Douglas Hayward, Globe-Trotter, Burberry, Cleverley’s and Dunhill, to name a few.”

“I think the culture of the ‘gentleman’ is coming back,” he adds. “There is a certain pride to wearing quality, bespoke clothing.” Sudre offers some industry insights as to why he tailors his services exclusively for a male clientele. “The menswear market has been growing year on year. This is quite noticeable with brands opening, or planning to open, more menswear-only boutiques. Take Jimmy Choo, for example: they are opening a men’s shop this April.” But why this sudden flurry of activity on the male front? Sudre explains, “Men are becoming more interested in fashion. I think this is due to the fact that they have come around to accepting the fact that their image is important. In addition, there are also corporate male clients who need to ensure that their image is polished for business, and this is another incentive.”

In the personal shopping trade, time is of the essence. How do you optimize a personal shopping experience? “To get the best out of a personal shopper,” says Sudre, “we recommend that a customer give us some information to work with so that we can prepare the field and smooth out your shopping experience. After all, our clients need their sartorial problems solved quickly. We, as personal shoppers, are expected to deliver solutions promptly!”

Julian Sudre
Personal Stylist & Personal Shopper
Style Alphabet
Tel. +44 (0)7 4299 47480
www.stylealphabet.com
 

Ms. Zhang first started playing piano at the age of four on an instrument built by her father, a violin and guitar maker by trade in Dandong, a city in western China very close to the border of North Korea. By the age of eleven she was attending the pre-college boarding school at the Central Conservatory of Music in Beijing, where she later received her bachelor’s and master’s degrees. Yet at the age of sixteen her piano teacher told her that her hands were too small for the instrument of her choice, which is when she discovered conducting. Her first teacher was a woman whose teacher in turn was also a woman. Gender was never an issue for Ms. Zhang in her native China because under Communism all women worked, and hers was simply another profession. In the Western world where conducting was very much considered a boys’ club, she has won over her audiences and critics worldwide with what a New York Times critic described as “Her incisive gestures (that) elicit vivid performances from musicians who have seen it all.” Perhaps what is most surprising is how this petite woman commands an orchestra not with severity and a sense of superiority commonly associated with the profession, but with self-assurance, calmness and kindness. Musicians who work with her readily sing her praises citing her non-authoritarian approach, which is somewhat of a rarity in this world.

Ms. Zhang was entrusted with her first conduction at the age 20, thanks to the generosity and far-sightedness of her teacher who recognized her abilities, and she became the youngest faculty member at Beijing’s Central Conservatory.
Four years after moving to the United States, she went on to win the Maazel/Vilar Conductors’ Competition which effectively launched her illustrious career which has included posts at the New York Philharmonic, the London Symphony Orchestra, China Philharmonic, the Tokyo Symphony and the Royal Stockholm Philharmonic to name just a handful. She has over the years consolidated her reputation not only as an orchestra conductor but as an opera conductor as well and will debut at Milan’s renowned La Scala opera house in 2014.

She was also the first woman to conduct the Staatskapelle Dresden in its principal hall as well as the first woman to conduct in Italy where she became Music Director of the Orchestra Sinfonica di Milano Giuseppe Verdi in 2008. She continues in the post today while also continuing her work with NJO, the Dutch Orchestra and Ensemble Academy, where she is Artistic Director.

Ms. Zhang perhaps summed it up best when she said: “…everything is a matter of race, age, your sex, your background, everything – it’s complex. I am a mixture of all the minority qualities, so it’s a waste of time to figure it out and I instead do what I can do and what I like to do.”

In addition to phenomenal talent, Ms. Zhang is also apparently blessed with a no-nonsense and very feminine pragmatism that ensures that we will be able to hear her work for years to come.

Fondazione Orchestra Sinfonica e Coro Sinfonico
di Milano Giuseppe Verdi
Via Clerici, 3
20121 Milan
Tel. 02 8338 9329
www.laverdi.org

 

But really, to embrace the power of now and look à la mode, not to mention inject a little fun, we need to look to the trends. This season, monochromes, flavours of the Orient and ruffles are making fashion headlines, but if you're concerned about today's styles becoming yesterday's news, it's all about identifying the wearable trends that will stay in vogue for years. Take, for example, military styling, which has seen countless incarnations since commanding wardrobe wear five years ago; or neons, which are once again back for spring summer 2013 – the key to trends is that they always come around! So if you're of a pedigree that wore Mary Quant's monochromes during the Sixties, and still have the fashions – and figure – to wear them, then this can give an even more fashion-forward way of working one of this season's key trends.

One stylist LUXOS spoke to advised to buy classic key items, and accessorize them with on-trend accessories – say by teaming that Pal Zileri shirt with one of Dior Homme's leather bomber jackets. And remember that trends aren't restricted to clothing: the jewel-coloured eyeliners that swept the Spring Summer 2013 catwalks can be worn with anything. It's also smart for conservative dressers to place a subtle nod to broader trends. For example, this season's penchants for pastels and ruffles are captured in Mulberry's runway dresses, which are timeless enough to last for decades.

Of course, it all comes down to personality, age, lifestyle and comfortability: whether you're a Hugo Boss power dresser or a Maison Martin Margiela woman, the most powerful way of dressing is as yourself, whoever that may be on the day.

Kwong Wai Keung, Executive Chef, Chinese cuisine, The Langham, Hong Kong

Q: Where do the most suitable lobsters for Cantonese cuisine come from?
A: The best lobsters are from the South China Sea. They are perfect for Cantonese cooking; stir-fried, the meat is tender and flavourful.
Q: What should you avoid when eating lobster?
A: Don't eat it after spicy and sour dishes. Those flavours tend to cover up its authentic and delicate taste.
Q: During a meal, when should lobster be served?
A: Before eating red or white meat is the best moment to savour lobster as its flavour is relatively light.
Q: In Cantonese cuisine, how do you cook lobster to get the best flavour?
A: Use the simplest techniques, without too much seasoning, in order not to mar its natural taste. Side dishes with strong flavours are of course not suitable, and so stir-frying or soup-cooking is the best way to enhance the lobster's flavour.

Rémi van Peteghem, Chef at Gaddi’s, The Peninsula, Hong Kong

Q: Which is the best kind of foie gras ?
A: The best is freshly-made, without any preservatives. It has a pleasant taste and a distinctive fragrance.
Q: What is the difference between foie gras and duck liver paté?
A: In recent years, in France, duck liver has been used for this sort of paté, because really good goose liver is hard to find and expensive. Fresh duck liver is readily available and so its paté can be produced in much larger quantities. Freshness is key for the best taste.
Q: How can you tell a really good foie gras from its appearance?
A: Yes, it should be creamy yellow with a touch of pink. If it is bright red, it means that it contains residues of blood, which will adversely affect the taste.
Q: Where does the best foie gras come from?
A: Since it is a traditional French product, the most famous brands come from the southwest of France. They are best sellers worldwide.
Q: What wine would go well with foie gras?
A: Cold foie gras can be accompanied by white wines that have a hint of sweetness; warm foie gras are best with red wine.

Li Shu Tim, Executive Chef, Chinese cuisine, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong

Q: What is maw?
A: The maw is a dried internal gas-filled organ found in most fish. The best maw comes from Bahaba taipingensis, the Chinese bahaba, found in the Indian Ocean, Vietnam and Myanmar. The larger the fish‘s body, the higher the quality of the maw.
Q: How do you cook maw?
A: Stewing is a technique that enhances the maw's glial, creating perfect flavour. A consommé is another preparation that benefits from the high quality-protein of maw, and it typically contains bone collagen as well.
Q: Are there male and female maws?
A: Yes, the best maw is male, because it contains more glial.
Q: What are the characteristics of well-braised maw?
A: It should not smell fishy. It should have a fragrant gum flavour, and should be snow white with a golden lustre.
Q: Why is maw so expensive?
A: Overfishing, pollution and other factors have caused this fish to be caught only at small sizes. This, along with the surge in demand in recent years, has led to the price of maw doubling in a relatively short time.
Q: Is maw better new or aged?
A: The older dried maw is, the better it is. Stored properly, its colour becomes dark brown and the glial taste will be more full-bodied. Then, it is considered the best type of maw.

Ports 1961 is led by Creative Director Fiona Cibani, who grew up in Vancouver, where at a very young age she developed a passionate interest in fashion and an eye for detail at her family’s boutique. She went on to fine-tune her talent at Parsons in New York and it was while attending the prestigious design school that she heard of an opening at Ports and began working there under the artistic direction of Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared fame.
Ms. Cibani, as an on-the-go entrepreneur, mother and wife, understands more than most fashion designers what it means to be a woman today and thankfully pours all that precious knowledge into her feminine but strong designs that have conquered aficionados all over the world. As she herself has said, “Women are busier, more powerful and influential in social, business and political fields which used to be dominated by men,” and fashion is standing up and paying attention!
The show-stopping designs for the evening are breathtakingly simple and speak of style as much as they do of comfort. Sentient of the importance of freedom of movement for contemporary women, Cibani’s creations do not merely flatter thanks to a meticulous construction; the outstanding textiles they are tailored in ensure that a woman is always at ease in addition to complementing her form. The silhouettes stand off the body, and are never too tight or blousy achieving a perfectly proportioned balance.

It is no wonder that “Ports 1961” is being whispered from ear to ear, by stylish London women who now know where to go for that special, stunning dress that will turn heads for all the right reasons!

Harrods
Brompton Road
London SW1X 7XL
+44 (0)20 7730 1234

His philosophy embraces the use of the finest ingredients while respecting the seasons; never will you be served peas in November at his restaurant, D’O! His unique talent lies in transforming the most humble ingredients, such as rice and breadcrumbs, into a truly delectable risotto that will have your palate doing cartwheels of joy. The one constant that is always on his menu year round is his signature caramelized onion, a dish that impeccably balances sweet and salty, crunchy and soft, warmth and cold and once you’ve tasted it however many times you may visit the restaurant, you’ll find yourself compulsively ordering it.

Now is the time for his spring menu, and for Easter and beyond discover how he magically ennobles Mother Nature’s seasonal cornucopia of greens: peas, nettles, broad beans, wild asparagus and wild leaves while teaming them with healthy white meats and blue fish. And not only is everything that emerges from his kitchen divine in taste, the presentation is worthy of a presentation in a gallery of modern art!

Jean-Jacques Rousseau was born in Geneva in 1712, into a watchmaking family, with his father, uncles, and previous generations, all involved in the trade. The Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva has six watches made by Rousseau's ancestors, including pieces with the intricate enamel miniatures which were part of the fashion at the time. Rousseau grew up in a district of Geneva packed with silversmiths, engravers and other watchmakers, and he was deeply influenced by the crafts that he saw. But his thought, which gave rise to aphorisms such as 'Men is born free, and everywhere he is in chains' and went on to inspire the French Revolution and Karl Marx, caused him to be chased out of Geneva and made him heartily disliked by the ruling classes all over Europe. His novel 'Julie, ou la nouvelle Héloïse,' 1761, included rhapsodic descriptions of the Swiss landscapes. It struck a chord in the public and helped spark the subsequent 19th-century craze for Alpine scenery. (Below, a watch by the Rousseau family at the Patek Philippe Museum, Geneva).

There is no doubt that Nietzsche was fascinated by Switzerland and its scenic beauty. He was professor at the University of Basel from 1869 to 1879, and thereafter spent a lot of time at Sils Maria, near Silvaplana and St. Moritz. During a walk in the forest on the shores of Lake Silvaplana, he saw a massive pyramidal block of stone, which set him thinking about time and how it relates to man's lives. The result was the concept of eternal recurrence, developed in Thus Spake Zarathustra: time is linear, but the entire universe repeats over and over, so that what you and I are doing right now in this moment will, one day, aeons in the future, be repeated in exactly the same way. "This life as you now live it (...) you will have to live once again and innumerable times again (...) even this spider and this moonlight between the trees (...) The eternal hourglass of existence is turned over again and again and you with it, speck of dust!" (Below, the Nietzsche Stone on lake Silvaplana in winter).

Nietzsche also said, in the same vein, "The future influences the present just as much as the past." He was anticipating the greatest revolution in the concept of time, that achieved by Albert Einstein. He was the first person to realize that time is not absolute, but simply a fourth dimension, in addition to the three dimensions of space. "The only reason for time," he said, "is so that everything doesn't happen at once." Each of us has our own personal time, which is similar to that of everyone else only because we are moving slowly. If you managed to accelerate to close to the speed of light, time would pass more slowly for you than for the rest of us here on earth. Einstein was born in Ulm, Germany, and became a Swiss citizen in 1901. He worked at the Patent Office in Bern from 1903 to 1909, and it is likely that the inventions he saw there – who knows how many watch innovations he had to review – influenced his studies, that would eventually become the theory of Special Relativity in 1905. (Below, photo of the Einstein Museum in Bern).

More romantically, there is an astronomical clock in Bern called the Zytglogge, one of the oldest town clocks in Switzerland: its mechanism dates back to 1530. Amongst the various automata, there is an astronomical clock beneath the main face which shows time, day of the week, date, month, zodiac and phases of the moon. The story goes that Einstein, who lived quite close, observed the buses driving around the tower, and wondered what would happen to them if they were going at the speed of light.

Watchmakers are often philosophers and scientists themselves: after all, the stuff that they are measuring – time – is still one of the most puzzling areas of study. Why, if time is a bit like space, can we only go in one direction? A conversation that I had with Michel Parmigiani at the SIHH watch fair in Geneva showed that this brilliant watchmaker is entirely at home in the realm of philosophy. "You see the curve of the lugs? It is a curve generated by the Fibonacci sequence, one of the fundamental types of harmony in nature that was studied by Luca Pacioli during the Renaissance. It creates a certain balance and proportion. I apply the same sort of study to all the components, such as the different lengths of the hands, the progressive variation in the widths of the Côtes de Genève decoration, everything! This sort of study brings us closer to the proportions of nature: a snowflake crystallizes according to these rules, and the Romanesco broccolo is constructed according to a logarithmic, fractal spiral generated by the Fibonacci sequence." (Below, Michel Parmigiani, Parmigiani Fleurier, sketching a Fibonacci spiral at SIHH, Geneva, January 2013. Photo courtesy of Maryline De Cesare).

Below, broccolo romanesco, with its fractal spiral structure based on Fibonacci-sequence-generated spirals (photo courtesy Sewtrashy/flickr.com)

If you would like to try to find your own philosophical inspiration in the Swiss landscape, you could venture out on the Muottas Muragl Philosophers' Trail, with plaques on a scenic hiking route (seven kilometres, two hours) providing quotes from Socrates, Nietzsche, Sartre and ohers, while overlooking the Engadin lakes near St. Moritz. Take the train to Punt Muragl and then the mountain railway to Muottas Muragl. The hike route is open from 8 June to 20 October 2013, and then in winter, from just before Christmas to early April, when it is one of the few winter hiking trails accessible to all, without the need for special gear. It is freshly prepared every day, so that it is always ready for you. Because "Only the ideas that we actually live are of any value" (Herman Hesse). Rousseau would have loved it.

 Useful information

Patek Philippe Museum
Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7
CH-1205 Geneva
Tel. +41 (0)22 8070 910
Admission CHF 10
Open Tues-Fri 2.00 p.m.-6.00 p.m., Sat 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m.

Nietzsche-Haus
Via da Marias 67
CH-7514 Sils Maria
Tel. +41 (0)81 8265 369
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday, 3.00 to 6.00 p.m., from mid-June to mid-October and from the end of December to mid-April.
Admission CHF 8.
Every Wednesday from 11.00 a.m. to 12.30 p.m., there is a tour of the exhibition (in German, CHF 15, incl. admission price). Special guided tours (for groups of 6 or more people) can also be arranged (in English, German, Italian, French).

Einstein-Haus
Kramgasse 49
Postfach 638
CH-3000 Bern
Open every day, 10.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m. Closed on 31 March, 19 May, and for the whole of January 2014.
Admission CHF 6
 

The brand’s roots are firmly planted in tradition, and for decades was known for its impeccably-cut suits in classic materials as well as a selection of extremely refined ties that appealed to businessmen with a sense of conservative yet quintessentially Italian style. Suits and ties continue to be Boggi bestsellers, thanks not only to their elegant designs but because superior quality is at the heart of the company's mission.
L’azienda ha alle spalle una lunga tradizione sartoriale. Gli impeccabili completi in tessuti classici e la selezione di raffinate cravatte per uomini d’affari dallo stile elegante e 100% italiano sono noti da decenni e continuano a essere tra i best-seller grazie alle linee eleganti e alla qualità eccezionale, entrambi elementi alla base della mission di Boggi.

Today, Boggi has drawn on the wealth of their experience and expanded their range to include easy formal wear that is innovative yet eminently tasteful and chic. The contemporary collection works at 360°, and celebrates the essence of today’s man who values traditional tailoring and quality as well as on-trend fashion with a timeless stylistic code, so that he will always be at ease in his second skin.

Oggi il marchio attinge alla ricchezza della sua esperienza ed amplia il catalogo aprendolo a capi più informali, innovativi eppure di grande gusto. Una collezione a 360 gradi, che celebra l’essenza dell’uomo contemporaneo che apprezza la qualità e la sartoria tradizionale quanto la moda e lo stile senza tempo. Una seconda pelle in cui sentirsi sempre a proprio agio.

As usual, the Salone also includes Euroluce for lighting, and SaloneUfficio for office furnishings. SaloneSatellite is a section at the Rho Fiera showground (halls 22-24) dedicated to the youngest and most promising designers of the future, and this hall often has some of the most surprising designs. It is the only part of the show that you can see if you are not a trade professional or a journalist. (In the photo below, Ghisò for Aston Martin, from a previous show).

But Fuorisalone is of course open to all! There are some areas that, during the period of the show, are buzzing, particularly in the evening, such as Via Durini, close to the city centre and home to names such as Cassina and B&B, and Via Tortona, a fast-developing design and fashion area. Superstudio on Via Tortona 27 and Via Forcella is the venue for some innovative design companies. On the other side of the city, Via Ventura is another nouveau-chic district with a lot of design events. (In the photo below, Spazio Krizia on Via Manin).

How do you handle all this? If you are new to the event, just head to Via Durini or Via Matteotti, look out for the red banners that mark a Fuorisalone event, take a look inside the showroom and pick up one of the catalogues that have all the details. For each evening, there are listings for venues running cocktail parties, openings and presentations. Just head for the nearest one, and you will soon find yourself part of the colourful crowd of design fanatics that form migratory gaggles moving from one part of the city to another, fuelled by generous libations of prosecco. (Below, a Tod's event, part of the FuoriSalone last year).

You can find details on the official Rho Fiera Milano event at cosmit.it. For Fuorisalone events, just search for Fuorisalone Milano 2013 and you'll find all the information you need online. Institutional exhibitions include the Triennale Design Museum; there will be some interesting home design material in the top fashion district around Via Montenapoleone. In short, the whole city marches in time with lifestyle and furniture for a week.

Read more:
Milan city guide
Previous Salone del Mobile

Sky Terrace

If your idea of balmy Italy consists of beautiful views over terra cotta-tiled rooftops, Milan is not the best place, but Sky Terrace comes fairly close. It provides all-round views onto the city from its central position, not far from the major sights. Low beige settees and candles contribute to the atmosphere, with a complete menu of cocktails and appetizers. From here, you can take a stroll in the Brera district (more nightlife) or head to La Scala and Piazza Duomo.

LUXOS Recommends: the mojito served in jam-jars

Hotel Milano Scala
Via dell’Orso, 7 20121 Milan
Tel. +39 02 870 961
luxos.com/milanoscala

La Rinascente

On the top floor, you can enjoy aperitifs, and stay for dinner if you like, but the best feature is the view. You are on the 7th floor right opposite the Cathedral, and you get a splendid view of the spires and gargoyles of the massive building entirely in marble. It's open until midnight, seven days a week, either from the store in Piazza Duomo, or from the address shown below after the store has closed.

LUXOS Recommends: Lady Killer, made with Greygoose vodka, basil, ginger, and Guanabana juice

Via Santa Radegonda 1, 20121 Milan
Tel. +39 02 8852 471/455
www.rinascente.it

Il Globe

Another bar on the 8th floor, at the top of a department store, Coin, il Globe has a terrace with excellent views, where cocktails are good, served with appetizers that can include raw fish delicacies.

LUXOS Recommends: tartare of tuna, salmon, swordfish and amberjack

Palazzo Coin,
Piazza Cinque Giornate 1,
20129 Milan
Tel. +39 02 5518 1969
www.globeinmilano.it

La Terrazza di Via Palestro

Aperitivo here runs until 9.30 p.m. every day except Sunday, with a terrace overlooking the park opposite, from the 4th floor of the Centro Svizzero building. Aperitifs are accompanied by tasty finger food served at the table.

LUXOS Recommends: 

Via Palestro 2
20121 Milan
Tel. +39 02 7602 8316
www.laterrazzadiviapalestro.com

Maison Moschino

Maison Moschino is a trend-setting hotel, veined with the same brilliant humour that underpins the brand's fashion collections. No surprise, then, that aperitivo on the terrace outside the hotel (actually on ground floor level) with its lovely Neoclassical façade has become a favourite for aperitifs. It's close to Corso Como, one of the prime nightlife districts of the city. No need to hurry: the terrace is open every evening from 6.00 p.m. to midnight.

LUXOS Recommends: the Passion sakè cocktail

Maison Moschino
Viale Monte Grappa, 12
20124 Milan
Tel. +39 02 2900 9858
luxos.com/maison-moschino

Read more:

Milan city guide section

First and foremost, the Cykno, a new electric bicycle that combines a vintage appearance with high technology, a pack of batteries that make life easier, and efficient disc brakes. It has a metal frame, loads of leather upholstery and glittering chrome, with an amazing cantilevered saddle that makes you look like you are floating in mid-air. During the show, Cykno bicycles will be circulating in the Fuorisalone (après-show) areas of Via Tortona, Brera, Via Ventura/Lambrate, and Porta Venezia. Possibly pedalled by a man in a kilt or an exuberant lady in a long dress. More information on this bicycle, launched for its premier presentation at the Salone del Mobile, will be available from the website www.cykno.com. Price on request.

You'll also be able to see what has become a design classic, Ciclotte, an exercise bicycle that looks so cool that you'll just long to start pedalling on it. Its large wheel recalls late 19th-century penny farthing bicycles, but it is absolutely contemporary, made in carbon fibre, steel, glass fibre, with a state-of-the-art touch screen display, and the ironically-curving handles. There are many versions, including an animalier variant by Roberto Cavalli. Another version, by Tonino Lamborghini, will be visible at the Formitalia stand at the Salone, FieraMilano (Rho Fiera showground); a new model with a redesigned pedal system can be seen at Superstudio 13, Via Forcella 13, Milan.

Wouldn't it be wonderful to have a cycle like that? In fact it exists, because Ciclotte, by designer Luca Schieppati, was based on a preceding design called Ciclò, a prototype bicycle that is now part of the Triennale Design Museum collection. You can find more information on the Ciclotte at www.ciclotte.com

Fashion designers have not wasted time in creating personalized two-wheelers. Gucci have branded a super touring bike manufactured in cooperation with historic brand Bianchi. The Gucci/Bianchi comes in two versions, an urban/off road model with a carbon-fibre frame, in matt black finish, and a single-speed city bike in white with smart leather saddle. (In the photo below, the Gucci city bike).

Trussardi launched their folding touring bike in 2010. Dolce & Gabbana created a limited-edition bicycle with leopard-print and 24-carat gilded finish. Fendi worked on a bike with loads of leather, a cooperation with specialist manufacturer Abici.
Whatever your choice, remember: cyclists unite! You have nothing to lose but your chains.

In the photo above: the Trussardi bicycle.

In 2011, the new Milan flagship store opened and not only is it perfectly fashion forward, it has embraced the most avant-garde technology thanks to a partnership with Samsung. Together they created the largest videowall (composed of 17 consecutive LED screens) in Europe that face one of the most important and vibrant shopping areas of the city. It is not merely a billboard for Brian&Barry but a showcase for the work of new artists and a place where schools and children will be able to express their ideas, in short an interactive communication tool for the community that will undoubtedly enrich and enliven Milan’s Piazza San Babila.

Brian&Barry opened their first boutique almost three decades ago, and the labels chosen have consistently captured the evolving taste and lifestyles of its discerning clients, simplifying their shopping experience and ensuring that stepping into a Brian&Barry boutique will never be less than a memorable experience!
 

To describe someone like Hans Sloane, you would have to use expressions like ‘larger than life,’ ‘a man of his times’ and so on. Indeed, he was all these and more. He was a successful doctor inspired by the best practitioners of the age; he redistributed his wealth among the poor by providing them with free medical supervision; and he was a serious – if sometimes obsessive – scholar of fauna and flora.

That’s not all. The origins of Cadogan Estate, one of London’s highest-priced developments still belonging to the same family today, could be traced back to Sloane too. When he died in 1753, his Manor of Chelsea was inherited by one of his daughters, who was married to the Second Baron Cadogan. However, it was only in 1777 that the architect and developer Henry Holland was granted a lease to build Hans Place, Sloane Street and later, Sloane Square.

To get an idea of how large a piece of land the Cadogan family owns, you just have to look at the map and visualize 93 acres bordered by Sloane Street and Kings Road. It is ironic to think that the Cadogans, a long line of decorated soldiers whose military history dates to the 12th century, are the owners of one of London’s most fought-over retail territories in the 21st century.

Starting at One Hyde Park, a true landmark which houses Rolex’s UK flagship store, we walk down one of the planet’s most famous shopping streets by ways of Harvey Nichols, Sergio Rossi, Zagliani, Gucci, Dior, Bulgari, Giorgio Armani, Valentino, and Chanel. On the north end of Sloane Street, Roberto Cavalli and Loro Piana have opened larger boutiques at numbers 20-22 and 47-48 respectively. After passing by the Royal Danish Embassy, Hans Street and Hans Place Garden, Pont Street is very much worth a detour, with Agent Provocateur and Carine Gilson Lingerie Couture holding strategic positions.

As we continue our march down the 1-kilometre-long Sloane Street, we must stop for a proper cup of tea at No. 11 Cadogan Gardens, a jewel of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World. The stunning hotel with 19th century Queen Anne style architecture featuring red bricks and stucco is a perfect escape for a good brew and tasty nibbles. Feel at ease in the Drawing Room and enjoy finger sandwiches, homemade scones and pastries. Why not have a glass of Pimms with your afternoon tea before getting back on the road?

British heritage is evident at brands such as Smythson, Hackett, Pringle of Scotland, Anya Hindmarch, Jo Malone and Links of London. A crescendo of stores – including Cartier and Tiffany & Co. – leads up to Sloane Square. Flanked on one side by the Hugo Boss flagship and the Peter Jones Department Store, and on the other by the Royal Court Theatre, it a vantage point from which you can observe the frenzy of one of London’s best shopping addresses.

Cadogan Estate’s newest development this summer is at 201-206 Sloane Street, so large that you simply cannot miss it. Ermenegildo Zegna, Alberta Ferretti and Tom Ford have each claimed thousands of square metres on this street which is also home to Jimmy Choo, Fendi, Rag & Bone and Orlebar Brown, to name but a few, as we continue to hear exciting news regarding new openings.

If you look all around you, you will understand why London has already overtaken Milan, New York and Paris as a fashion capital – due in part to Sloane Street, which, just like the man it was named after, is truly larger than life.

What else is there to do besides shopping?

Don’t miss Chelsea in Bloom, 20-25 May, when all the stores in this area will put their best green thumb forward, creating the wildest displays using flowers and plants. Last year, Ted Baker made a huge corgi, Liz Earle did an afternoon tea display, and Hackett boasted a set of the most handsome rosy royal guards. Who knows what 2013 will bring? The only way to find out is to see it for yourself.

Your return to the runway last year was THE event of the fashion world… how did it feel once the clamour died down?

Thank you for your kind words. To tell the truth, I had very little time to bathe in positive reactions, I have never been so busy before, designing collections and reorganizing the whole structure in the meantime. But without this impression of being appreciated, the energy might not have been there. The reality after the clamour is concentrated work on all fronts. Nevertheless, it makes me very happy to be back in the atelier.

Your absence from your own name and brand must have been a challenge. What did you learn from the experience?

I believe in fate, there is a reason to everything. I had a chance to travel, to acquaint myself anew with the world, and to try my hand at fast fashion in Japan, a country I always cherished. I stepped out of a high voltage machine and made a free decision to join it again. Now, I really know that this course of life belongs to me.

What exactly is 'fashion' in your opinion?

As you may guess, I don’t put the accent on fashion. Clothes should not just be a pastime, in my eyes. They are an essential way of presenting ourselves to the world. Dressing is quite a serious thing, if you want to be respected. On the other hand, I believe in change, in zeitgeist, in being in synch with the moment. For me, fashion is an expression of our understanding of the present age and its possibilities. It should free us from the past, but also set us free to act in a responsible way. We should be energized and supported by fashion.

Your aesthetic in women’s fashion has been associated with feminist philosophy…any thoughts on that?

I think that women are still at the crossroads. They must decide whether they want to advance by highlighting their bodies or their intelligence. I always tried to underline their personality and individuality, not to edit them out.

Could you talk to us a little bit about the “white shirt” and your relationship to it?

White, to me, is an almost mythical colour, very pure and disarming. The shirt is an essential for both sexes, an iconic piece of clothing which changes the whole appearance. To combine both, makes a strong impression, especially because it speaks softly. I also like the white shirt, because it is a constructive item, it lends itself to adaptation, it can be endlessly varied and made responsive to the spirit of the moment.

You are known for using extraordinary fabrics with a rich and luxurious hand…are they fundamental? Why?

I am passionate about fabrics. My work is very tactile; I design with my hands, with my touch and what I learn from it. New textile mixes and solutions lead the way to new cuts, new ways in which a design can fall and unfold in movement. There is the sculptural side to fabrics, but I also value the high-tech research which goes into their conception.

You will be opening boutiques in Beijing and Shanghai this year. Of course China is a very important market, how do you think Chinese women and men will respond to your unique aesthetic?

The Chinese are very curious and informed about European fashion that makes me optimistic. For China, the 20th century was defined by uniforms. They have an innate sense of understatement. I hope that Chinese consumers will value Jil Sander as a synthesis of luxury and quiet sophistication.

Rewind to 2005, when the mixology scene in New York had just ignited. While sipping spirits at the iconic LES speakeasy, Milk & Honey, the three were amazed and inspired that there, the cocktail served a higher purpose. Gone were the days of fulfilling the basic need of quenching thirst: alcoholic beverages were created with skill and regarded as art.

With the founding of the first Experimental Cocktail Club (ECC) in Paris, the guys found a way to create a need for something people didn't even know existed – an experience in the art of cocktails, the pleasure of enjoying a handcrafted beverage, in an unsurpassable ambiance. They perfected their cocktail identity, and today, have become a benchmark brand. After opening the original Paris ECC, they expanded to the Curio Parlor, another left-bank cocktail haunt, followed by Prescription Cocktail, La Companie des Vins Surnaturels, their first wine bar, and most recently, The Beef Club and its bar, The Ballroom.

The Experimental Cocktail Group plans to open three new locations in 2013. Huddled in The Ballroom, Romée, Olivier and Pierre-Charles shared exclusively with LUXOS that Paris would welcome The Fish Club this season. A new raw bar and seafood den, featuring fresh, high quality ingredients, and of course, killer cocktails.

Here’s our rundown on the six Experimental Cocktail Group bars in Paris that are not to be missed.

The Fish Club (opening in May 2013)
The latest addition to the ECG family is The Fish Club, aptly named in the same style as it's sister restaurant, The Beef Club. Located just down the street from the trendy meat lover's haven, The Fish Club will be highlighting the fruits of the sea, such as fresh ceviche, oysters, and caviar by Pointy Snout. Between the refreshing menu items and the group's track record for killer drinks, The Fish Club will be the hottest Paris restaurant opening of the summer.
Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau
Paris 75001

The Beef Club & The Ballroom
The newest opening from the ECC trio, The Beef Club is bringing the New York vibe to the chic Etienne Marcel neighbourhood of Paris’ right bank. The menu features, you guessed it, beef, by the star butcher Yves-Marie le Bourdonnec. From the décor and warm lighting, to the bustling and boisterous crowd, it’s the perfect restaurant to enjoy with a group of friends. Be sure to reserve a table here, as they fill up quickly, and the best cuts go first. After dinner, spiral downstairs into the cocktail lair, that is, The Ballroom. Gentlemen beware, the old-fashioned doorman will request you head down the treacherous stairs first. Once inside, it’s easy to lose track of the night, sipping away on artisanal cocktails and dancing to jazz classics, or whatever the DJ of the night fancies.
58, rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, 75001 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)9 5437 1365

Experimental Cocktail Club
The first of their cocktail bars that started the cocktail revolution in Paris, the Experimental Cocktail Club is located behind a discreet door on a tiny street just off of the bustling market street, rue Montorgueil in the 2nd arrondissement. Inside this velour-lined drinking den, cocktails are fresh and the atmosphere guarantees a good time.
37 Rue St-Sauveur, 75002 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4508 8809

Prescription Cocktail Club
By far the most dapper cocktail bar in Saint Germain, Prescription Cocktail Club features two stories of nooks and crannies perfect for cozying up and tasting your way through their killer cocktail menu. The third of five high-design drinking dens by the Experimental guys, this bar was a precursor to the speakeasy vibe of the Ballroom blended with the low-key ambiance of the Experimental Cocktail Club.
23 Rue Mazarine, 75006 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4634 6773

Curio Parlor
Opened just after the original Experimental Cocktail Club, Curio Parlor is equal parts speakeasy and curiosity cabinet. Sipping craftsman cocktails while surrounded by Deyrolle-esque taxidermy is just the right amount of rococo meets trendy Paris. The main level is framed by the bar featuring vials and bottles of essences and rare extracts, while downstairs, DJs get the party going.
16 rue des Bernardins, 75006 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4407 1247

La Companie des Vins Surnaturels
While the Experimental Cocktail Group is all about cocktails, they forayed into the art of the wine bar with this swanky left-bank location. Incredible wines are served both by the glass and bottle, and the list changes daily. Velvet-swathed cushions, a friendly bar staff, and candlelight are all you need to feel at home here.
7 rue Lobineau, 75006 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)9 5490 202

Michael Kors' perfect day

"This is a city that truly represents what I’m all about – fast-paced, international and glamorous! I start the day with breakfast at The Delauney, before shopping around Bond Street. When it comes to food, it’s no secret that I love a good hamburger, so I always hit Automat for one of theirs, before heading across the street to Dover Street Market, and of course there's the Michael Kors store on Bond Street! It has everything from a gorgeous gown to a perfect link bracelet. I adore Portobello Road: Rellik has a fabulous mix of well-edited vintage clothes and accessories. As for culture, I always make a point of hitting the exhibition of-the-moment. Recently I caught the David Bowie exhibit at the V&A. I love to catch a play when I'm in town, my favourite theatres are the Adelphi and The Chocolate Factory. Afterwards, I'm sure to book a table at The Ivy for a post-theatre supper."

The Delaunay, 55 Aldwych, London WC2B 4BB, tel. +44 (0)20 7499 8558

Automat American Brasserie, 33 Dover Street, Mayfair London W1S 4NF, tel. +44 (0)20 7499 3033

Victoria & Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, London SW7 2RL, tel. +44 (0)20 7942 2000

Adelphi Theatre, Maiden Lane, London WC2E 7NN, tel. +44 (0)844 412 4648

Chocolate Factory, 53 Southwark St, London SE1 1RU, tel. +44 20 7378 1713

The Ivy, West Street, tel. +44 (0)20 7836 4751

Emma Hill's must-see museums and attractions

"If it’s a sunny afternoon I like to walk to the top of Primrose Hill and look over the city, it’s a great place to clear the head and get inspiration, and what a beautiful view! At the V&A, there is always something on that I’m dying to see, they really support the British fashion, design and art industries and have such a breadth of exhibitions that there’s something for everyone throughout the year. Over the last few years the South Bank of the River Thames has developed into a cultural hub of arts and entertainment. Here you can catch the most cutting edge performance art while the British Film Institute supports independent cinema through its year-round film festivals. Somerset House is a grand building overlooking the river. It is now home to The British Fashion Council and many wonderful creative exhibitions, including Tim Walker’s recent ‘Storyteller’ exhibition and the wonderful history of Valentino and his work."


Somerset House, Strand, London WC2R 1LA, tel. +44 (0)20 7845 4600


Yvan Benbanaste's top shops

"At Orlebar Brown, there are my favourite swim shorts as worn by by James Bond in Skyfall. Winners of the Walpole Awards for Excellence 2012 for the 'Best Emerging British Luxury Brand,' they have the best range of colours, fabrics and cuts. Exquisite. I love Turnbull and Asser's pyjamas as they are so fresh and light, made of 100% 2-fold cotton and the shirts are ready-to-wear, classically tailored and enduring for my busy schedule. I like New and Lingwood for their fun, colourful paisley silk handkerchiefs and socks. Walton Street Stationery Company's immense creativity and design is trusted by so many designers, including Vera Wang and Kate Spade. I rely on Taylor of Old Bond Street's luxury grooming products for a clean shave, expertise and exotic blend of colognes."

Orlebar Brown, 73 Duke of York Square, King's Road, London SW3 4LY, tel. +44 (0)20 7730 2970.

Turnbull and Asser, 71-72 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6PF, tel. +44 (0)20 7808 3000

New and Lingwood, 53 Jermyn Street, St James´s, London SW1Y 6LX, tel. +44 (0)20 7493 962

Walton Street Stationery Company, 97 Walton Street, London SW3 2HP, tel. +44 (0)20 7589 0000.

Taylor of Old Bond Street, 74 Jermyn Street, London SWIY 6NP, tel. +44 (0)20 7930 5544.

Tory Burch's best restaurants

"The Wolseley is a Mayfair café that serves a classic English breakfast complete with baked beans and black pudding. Veeraswamy is an opulent Indian restaurant – the oldest in the UK – that serves beautifully-prepared Indian dishes. Their kulfi (pistachio ice cream) is divine. Morelli’s Gelato at Harrod’s is a classic ice cream parlour that has been in business since 1907. Try the rose and white chocolate flavour. At Pitt Cue, the barbecue is good. Very, very good. They don't take reservations, so arrive early. Try the bizarre but wonderful drink called the Pickle Back. At J. Sheekey, seafood is the speciality; this restaurant is minutes from the West End’s Theatre district. Drop in for fresh oysters before or after seeing a play."

The Wolseley, 160 Piccadilly, London W1J 9EB, tel. +44 (0)20 7499 6996

Veeraswamy, Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS, tel. +44 (0)20 7734 1401

Morelli’s Gelato, Harrod’s (ground floor), 87–135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, tel. +44 (0)20 7893 8959

Pitt Cue, 1 Newburgh Street, London, W1F 7RB, tel. +44 (0)20 7287 5578

J. Sheekey, 32-34 Saint Martin's Court, London WC2N 4AL, tel. +44 (0)20 7240 2565
 

The Ti is the latest smartphone by British company Vertu, on a roll following its break with Nokia, which enabled it to reconnect with cutting-edge Android technology. The Vertu Ti is about perfection, with the largest sapphire touchscreen of any smartphone, speakers certified by Bang & Olufsen, and incredible strength as a result of the high-grade titanium and aerospace-standard aluminium used for the structure. But the really smart feature is an additional microphone on the outside of the unit. It picks up the background noise around you, so that when you're talking on the phone, the software inside compares the audio signal of your voice with the background noise picked up by the second microphone. Then it cancels the background noise, so that the person at the other end only hears your voice without all the rest. Brilliant.

Richard Mille cufflinks

Richard Mille is famous for his superb watches, but he has also thought up his own version of a staple of men's fashion: Richard Mille cufflinks. Incredibly they have 38 parts, and took two years' development work. In grade 5 titanium, they operate with a mechanism that is totally different to the normal pivoting bar and provides the user with an extra source of daily fascination. A diamond-set version will be available soon.

Laser Keyboard for smartphones and tablets - Alfred Dunhill

Alfred Dunhill's laser keyboard makes using your smartphone or tablet (iPhone, iPad, Android...) much simpler. It laser-projects a keyboard onto any flat surface, such as a table. It has adjustable sensitivity and brightness, and a long-lasting battery recharged from a USB port. The case has a carbon-fibre pattern, and it is scratch and water resistant. The unit connects to your device by Bluetooth.

Read more:
Top 10 Cufflinks
The Vertu Ti
Dunhill accessories fall-winter 2012-2013

First of all: does the watch fit the outfit? If you're in a suit and you're wearing a shirt with French cuffs and cufflinks, a diver's watch, a Rolex, or anything chunky, is just not on (unless you're James Bond). It would be like wearing a Piaget Ultra Thin to the gym. Really you need three watches: one that suits your job, a dress watch for formal gear, and a sports watch for leisure time and pursuits.

The watch that suits your job is the eloquent one. A world time watch with multiple time zones, for example: enough said. You're either ultra-familiar with the world's airlines, or you're always on the phone with people thousands of miles away.

Apart from the watch itself, the strap speaks volumes. Leather is straightforward simplicity, and the knowledge that the best things improve with age. A steel mesh band, and you're at home with modernity.

But let's have a look at a few of the latest watches to find out what they say about you.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance

IWC is definitely a macho brand. They don't even contemplate women's watches (actually, quite a few women wear IWCs – "that's OK, as long as they buy their own and don't steal their partner's" is what they say about that), and their classic series such as the Big Pilot's Watch, the Portuguese and the Portofino are all tough, sports watches. The new Ingenieur series is all about Formula One looks. Wear the Carbon Performance, and what you're saying is that you like winning, you love new technology, modern style, and speed. A bit like driving an AMG Mercedes.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Grande Complication

If you wear an AP, you're deep, man. There are many strings to your bow. You appreciate both the beauty of classicism and tradition, and the modernity of tough engineering. Gerald Genta's octagonal design with exposed bolts has become a classic, but it is still different enough from the normal watch to attract a second glance. And if it's the Grande Complication, you're special in many ways. Perfect timing is your forte. And planning ahead.

Breguet Classique Grande Complication 5347 Twin Rotating Tourbillons

Secretly, you're a dreamer and a philosopher. You know that the tourbillon is a superb tour-de-force of watchmaking, but as unnecessary today – or necessary, according to your point of view – as mechanical watches (when compared to the precision of quartz). The tourbillon is part of the dream, and a piece like this Breguet has a sort of hypnotic beauty, with its two tourbillons that slowly glide around the dial, taking the hour hand with it. You're a connoisseur, a lover of good French wine. Your favourite city? Paris, of course.

Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic

You'll accept no nonsense. You like Italian design flair and Swiss precision, steel instead of gold, and you're ready for whatever sport, whether it's flying, skydiving, motor-racing or scuba diving. You have a sort of MacGyver ability to put your hand to anything and come up trumps every time. But you're not a daredevil: you calculate the risks and take all the right decisions to ensure your safety. Rather like the Panerai trademark protective device for the crown.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine retrograde day and date

You're different. You like looking at things from your own point of view, and so you love this watch with its retrograde hands that jump back to the beginning after reaching the end of the month, and week. You're very, very busy, and so you like the calming simplicity of the dial. And the clear indication of the day of the week, something that you have a tendency – given your frenetic lifestyle – to forget.

Christophe Claret Dualtow

You're a tongue-in-cheek techie; you love miracles of technology, like this Christophe Claret piece which combines traditional watchmaking features such as tourbillon and monopusher chronograph with the truly original belt indicators on either side of the dial to indicate hours and minutes. The design influences, including the Bugatti alloy wheels and the tank-inspired belts, intrigue you every time you look at it. Be careful: people will start asking you advice like "I've forgotten the password to my iPad, can you help me break in?"

These are just a few examples. The range out there is enormous, and so you can choose exactly the watch that suits you and your lifestyle best. It's not about money: the price fork for mechanical watches starts at under €1,000 and reaches €1 million and more. It is a really personal thing. That watch on your wrist has a tiny beating heart, the balance wheel and its spring, and it's going to beat in resonance with your own, for a lifetime.

Read more:

IWC at SIHH 2013

Beginning my journey of erudite discovery at the 18th century home in which the first English dictionary was scribed, I find it fitting to open with Dr Johnson's quote. The writer could often be found around the corner at his local, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. With its sultry alcoves and dark woods, it's easy to picture the pub in its heyday, playing host to writers such as Dickens, Voltaire and Twain.

Crossing the Millennium Bridge, I'm on my way to London's South Bank, arguably its artistic hub, and setting of the reconstructed Shakespeare's Globe, where audience-goers can watch A Midsummer Night's Dream, Macbeth and The Tempest this spring and summer.

Heading west beside the water, the bibliophiles in their berets and brown tweeds scuttle about the second hand bookstalls peppering the promenade. "Ships, towers, domes, theatres and temples lie, Open unto the fields, and to the sky;" are lines from Wordsworth's 'Composed upon Westminster Bridge', the gateway I'm heading across towards London's most important literary monument: Poet's Corner in Westminster Abbey. Entombed here lie Chaucer, Tennyson, Dickens, Kipling, Browning and Hardy, alongside memorials to Wordsworth, Austen, the Brontes, Coleridge and Lewis Carroll, joined by CS Lewis this year to mark the 50th anniversary of his death.

Mayfair, a brisk walk away, has been the stomping ground for bright young things since Becky Sharpe frequented Gaunt Square (modelled on Berkeley Square) in Vanity Fair and Lord Henry enjoyed the locale in The Picture of Dorian Gray. The blue plaques dotting the buildings commemorate the many novelists who've called this privileged enclave home - from Ian Fleming to Percy Byshe Shelley, Lord Byron, Graham Greene and Aldous Huxley to Henry James.

I indulge, as Agatha Christie used frequently to do, in an early afternoon tea in the English Tea Room. It was here, amid the original wood panelling, fireplaces, idle chatter, tinkling piano, succulent finger sandwiches and freshly baked cakes and scones immaculately presented on silver stands, that the mistress of the whodunnit conceived of and modelled Bertram's Hotel. Rudyard Kipling was also a visitor, as were Mark Twain and Edith Wharton.

Soho and its licentious milieu is as evocative today as ever - wandering the labyrinthine streets where, beneath the glare of fashionable bars and Michelin starred restaurants weave denizens of vice and the capital's most colourful characters, it's evident to see why the area has inspired so many novelists. Karl Marx wrote much of Das Kapital in 'an old hovel - two evil, frightful rooms' beneath which Quo Vadis, one of the capital's chicest restaurants, now stands. Meanwhile, if you can find a member to take you, the Grouch Club is THE destination for literary and artistic types.

It was at my dinner destination that two of literature's leading men were given life. I'm at Roux at The Landau, the spellbinding dining room that in-the-know restaurant-goers choose for sensational haute cuisine and service. It was here that, one summer's evening in 1889, Arthur Conan Doyle and Oscar Wilde met with the publisher of Lipincott's Magazine and were commissioned, respectively, to pen The Sign of Four (the second outing for Sherlock Holmes) and The Picture of Dorian Gray.

I awake the next morning and head for Highgate and its famous cemetery where, hidden among the hundreds of tombs and winding paths lined with creeping vegetation and intricate statues lie the graves of Karl Marx, George Elliot and the Rossettis - Christina's tomb famously dug up by husband Dante Gabriel seven years after her death in order to retrieve a book of poetry he'd buried alongside her.

Hampstead Heath is a charmed walk away - its elevation, 440 feet above the city, has long attracted those of a sensitive disposition - from John Keats to DH Lawrence, Charles Dickens, George Orwell and Agatha Christie - to take up residence in the area. I head north to the Spaniard's Inn, a delightfully olde worlde 16th century pub where Keats wrote 'Ode to a Nightingale', Dick Turpin was said to have been born and Dickens' Pickwick Papers was set, for a traditional roast in the country garden.

Finally I head to Bloomsbury, arguably London's literary heartland, home to the eponymous Bloomsbury Group and its famous circle - Virginia Woolf, EM Forster et al. There's a talk at The Bloomsbury Institute given by a Booker Prize winning writer and his publisher that evening - the bespectacled audience filling the exquisite Georgian drawing room a textbook sample of London's thriving book club and literary salon scene.

En route to my final destination it would be criminal not to stop by King's Cross Station's Platform 9 and 3/4, the gold plaque a must-see for Harry Potter fans, and have a glance inside The British Library, proudly stocking every book ever published, from The Magna Carta to the Codex Sinaiticus.

"Please, sir, can I have some more?" is not a phrase I'll need to utter at 48 Doughty Street. By special arrangement I've commissioned a private evening tour of the Charles Dickens Museum with its venerable Director Dr Florian Shweizer, holder of a PhD in London's greatest chronicler. Downstairs in the dining room it's all "Food, glorious food" as Victorian recipes recreated from Mrs Dickens' only published book, "What Shall We Have For Dinner?" are served by candlelight especially for myself and guests.

In1661 John Evelyn wrote of a cityscape that wraps "her stately head in clouds of smoke and sulphur, so full of stink and darkness". Like the pea soupers that so inspired the writers of old, much of London's past has been physically erased - bombed, burned or bulldozed - and yet immortalised through the capital's astonishingly proud literary legacy.

Where:
Dr Johnson's House

17 Gough Square
London EC4A 3DE
Tel. +44 (0)20 7353 3745

Poet's Corner
Westminster Abbey

20 Deans Yard
London SW1P 3PA
Tel. +44 (0)20 7222 5152

The British Library

96 Euston Road
London NW1 2DB

Tel. +44 (0)20 7323 8299

The English Tea Room
Brown’s Hotel London
Albemarle Street 

London W1S 4BP 

Tel. +44 (0)20 7493 6020
luxos.com/browns

Roux at The Landau, 

The Langham, London 

1C Portland Place,
Regent Street
London W1B 1JA
Tel. +44 (0)20 7636 1000
luxos.com/langham-london

Spaniard's Inn

Spaniards Road
London, NW3 7JJ

Tel. +44 (0)20 8731 8406

The Charles Dickens Museum
48 Doughty Street

London, WC1N 2LX

Tel. +44 (0)20 7405 2127
 

During the research process, which are your main inspiration resources? Is inspiration more of an ongoing process than a specific moment? Where did it come from for this collection?
The first step of my research is imagination and intuition: by keeping your eyes wide open you can find inspiration in everything! Nature, books, photographs, travels, fabrics, art, music suspended between past and future, through different cultures! You have to keep yourself intuitive and open to all there is around you because everything is a possible point at which to start the research and then it becomes part of the collection... Every season is different and the inspiration could come from an infinity of sensations, you just have to be curious about life, about what surrounds you. Boredom is something I don’t understand and don’t accept.
For the spring/summer 2013 collection I was inspired by the Spanish artist Hermenegildo Anglada Camarasa having seen some amazing paintings at the Reina Sofia Museum, and the feminine Orientalist paintings. Starting from handmade paintings, the leitmotif of the collection was 'flora and fauna,' conceived as a modern paisley. Birds of paradise, butterflies, flamingos and geckos cavort within the fantasy foliage, at times mixed with graphic tie prints and Japanese vase prints.

Despite the richness of the prints, there is an essentialness, a cleanness to your designs. How do you achieve that balance?
For the spring/summer 2013 collection I have mixed very decorative and ornamental prints with clean silhouettes and shapes in order to dilute the decorative effect. The romanticism of the prints is cut by sporty stripes, running horizontally, vertically or asymmetrically.

What's the process behind the anticipation of a trend? How do you have to think in order to produce something that will last a season or a lifetime?
Our idea of style is based on a fine balance between fashion and tradition, we are not interested in creating trendy fashion collections; rather, we want to create timeless clothes, pieces that people want to collect and wear through the years. The Etro woman is a contemporary woman who likes to mix different patterns, colours or prints; she loves to travel and to discover new cultures and tribes. She’s eclectic and loves to play with fashion without taking it too seriously. She’s not a victim of the latest trend but she prefers timeless clothes, always being elegant and sophisticated. I always find it interesting when people in the street interpret the Etro style, rather than picking the complete look. Clothes are our second skin, and I think it is of vital importance that you can feel good, feel free to personalize, to play with it, to have fun and be happy.

How will you incorporate paisley – the signature pattern that you always somehow manage to transform while remaining true to Etro’s aesthetical roots – into the new collection?
Each season we develop and reconsider the paisley design in new ways. It’s always very stimulating to deal with such a decorative pattern as you can easily blend it with more geometrical designs, or mix it with flowers, stripes, polka dots, or even with different techniques. You can also change the design technique, for instance using blurring, felt and graphics, even airbrushing. Being so decorative as a design, it is always stimulating to work with it.

What is the most challenging aspect of figuring out a theme for a collection? Or does it just come together organically?
It’s a six-month process, so actually we may start with a theme and then end up by mixing it with different inspirations. In my opinion it is a lot about intuitiveness, you keep your eyes and senses open to what you might feel right at that special moment.

What in your professional life has been your greatest source of pride?
That my collections gain interest and success and that the Etro label is enjoying continuous growth, that’s enough for me.

Peter Langner is a man who is a master at capturing that subtle balance between who women want to be and who women are and creating that elusive yet 'perfect' dress. The designer was born in Germany, and trained with the world’s top couturiers – Dior, Lacroix and Lanvin to name just a few – before settling in Rome to open his very own atelier in the Italian capital, a city that is home to fabled and timeless romantic spots like the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain.

In his atelier, you will find no two same silhouettes, it is a wonder of imagination and workmanship that comes to life thanks to his team of highly skilled seamstresses who painstakingly cut and sew every drape, fold and seam strictly by hand, no detail is too small. This team is one of the pivotal components of the atelier and increasingly a rarity in an industrialised world. “My team is old and young. I need both. The old train the young and the young teach the old patience,” says the designer. It is they who along with the designer transform his pencil sketches (no computers here!) into breath-taking confections that are the stuff of dreams.

The vast majority of the fabrics used by the atelier are Italian-made pure silk, and lovingly selected for their weave or unique hand as well as their elegance. “A fabric is very important to give the gown the right shape and body. If you choose the wrong fabric, the most amazing idea is lost”, says Langner. The creation of a gown is a scrupulous process: once the fabric has been selected, it is draped around the mannequins to form a new shape, and slowly a dress is born thanks to the meticulous handiwork of magical and knowledgeable fingers.

As crucial as the dress, and sadly in modern times an afterthought, the veil is an exquisite key part of the whole, as important as the shoes or the bouquet. Traditionally worn to protect brides from evil spirits, Peter Langner’s veils impeccably 'frame' both the bride and her gown, in a gossamer-like cloud of weightless perfection without hiding her. “To create a new veil is a very delicate affair. You have to find the balance between beauty, delicacy and detail,” and whether you select a floor-length style trimmed in the finest Italian lace or a short 1950s-inspired version enriched with dainty beadwork, it is the perfect complement for a flawless bride.

Perhaps it is the designer’s obsession with his craft that leads to such exceptionally stunning bridal dresses. Speaking with LUXOS he said, “I try to dedicate every single thought to make the perfect gown,” and it shows. In Peter Langner’s atelier, the future bride will undoubtedly find The Dress, which will remain in her memories for a lifetime and once the big day is over and it is put carefully and lovingly away in its special box, she will invariably open it every now and again, to take a peek at her most beautiful dress and run her hands over the remarkable workmanship and sumptuous feel of her Peter Langner gown.

Info box:
Rome flagship store:
Via Tiburtina 1234, 00131 Rome
Tel. +39 06 7030 5967
 

Asprey’s new Woodland collection designed by Shaun Leane is a breath of fresh air and a nod to British luxury. The contemporary collection consists of earrings, charm bracelets, cocktail rings, pendants and necklaces, all themed around an oak leaf motif. Earrings come in the shape of a single leaf or a wreath, which is also available on an intricate ring. You can create your own elegant yet fun piece with 18-carat gold charms – conkers, gooseberries, blackcurrants and pine cones – on a bracelet or long necklace. The Woodland collection sparkles at night with its show-stopping cocktail rings. Beryl, peridot and tourmaline are stunningly wrapped in a wreath of oak leaves, pavé-set with matching gemstones. Twinkling lights in a garden at night.

De Beers Diamond Jewellers take a walk on the wild side with its Imaginary Nature masterpieces featuring jawdropping ice. The collection’s signature brooch is set with an incredible 16.38-carat pear-cut diamond. It can be attached to a bold necklace, or matched with a fantastical cuff for an ethereal look. The evocative names of other pieces suggest a new world of light and movement – Unveiling Earrings, Cascade Earrings, Flight Ring, Embrace Ring and Ascending Ring. The dynamic, sculptural silhouettes capture the lightness of petals, the strength of a bird's wingspan and the 3-dimensionality of infinite curves. The combination of diverse diamond cuts and settings gives each piece a unique look.

Carrera y Carrera’s Gardenias collection showcases the blossom in all its beauty. Two precious metals create two completely different impressions of the flower: in 18-carat yellow gold, the Gardenias earrings, pendants and rings glow like an unforgettable sunset; in white gold, the pieces shine with an icy glamour, spotlighting the Spanish jeweller’s bold designs and savoir-faire. From Olivia Palermo to Natasha Yarovenko, the Gardenias collection has every woman in mind.

Pasquale Bruni’s iconic blossoms and butterflies create a personal paradise for every woman. The Liberty Diana ring and pendant with blue iolite, sapphires and diamonds set in white gold vividly reflect the colours of the sky, while Bon Ton’s colourful flower rings, pendants and earrings, crafted in a rainbow of gemstones – amethyst, peridot and ink quartz – are the perfect backdrop for a charming garden.

Adler is in search of a darker, more mysterious garden with its use of carbon, a new material in high jewellery. Lightweight, earthy and intense, it is paired up with diamond for a dramatic effect. The Green Envy collection, with two white gold bracelets and a pair of earrings, plays up emerald, looking ‘greener’ than ever against carbon’s eternal black and diamond’s dazzling white. Carbon appears just as fascinating in the Sunset Shades earrings, bracelet and necklace, which combine the innovative material with diamonds, different shades of brown diamonds, as well as white and yellow gold for a warm, glowing result.

Bulgari’s Flora jewellery collection features nature’s most beautiful colours, and for every shade, there is a stunning gemstone to match. Brilliant diamonds, vibrant orange mandarin garnets, deep green emeralds pink and fancy coloured sapphires and many more are combined in unexpected ways to create a refreshing palette that is unmistakably Bulgari. Behind what seems to be a simplistic silhouette is an intricate metalwork that sets all the gemstones at just the right angle to create maximal dazzle. Never has nature been so breathtaking.

Tiffany & Co. present their newest collection in the form of a freshly trimmed spring garden, where blossoms of diamonds, in vibrant shades of orange, pink, blue, green and yellow, majestically adorn rings, pendants and earrings in a bright new collection – Colours of Wonder. These rare specimens glow in all the radiance that only Tiffany diamonds can possess, because as the ‘King of Diamonds,’ Charles Lewis Tiffany set the standard for these bright gems.

From realistic depictions to fantastical images, the enduring theme of nature in jewellery continues to astound and amaze with its constant evolution. Sprouting from a design, it grows, blossoms and turns into fruits of labour.

Popular in Asia since the 5th century BC, polo spread from Persia to Byzantium, Egypt and the Levant, then on to China, Japan and India. It was there, in the 19th century, that the first polo club was formed by British tea planters at Silchar and the Calcutta Polo Club, the oldest existing polo club today, was founded. English officers began to partake in the sport, taking it back to Britain during the 1860s, where it was written about in The Field magazine and re-enacted among senior military figures at grounds around London. Not long after, emigrees introduced the sport to the Americas - Argentina, Brazil, Mexico, Chile and the USA. 

While polo was originally brought to prominence by Middle Eastern monarchs (earning it the moniker 'Sport of Kings'), its popularity later spread among the royalty of Europe, India and the rest of the world. One of the most elegant sports known to man, it requires multiple talents, skills and resources. It returned as a competitive sport to the Summer Olympics of London 2012, following a 76-year hiatus. Most senior British royals play competitively today, with the Prince of Wales, Duke of Cambridge and Prince Harry hosting and playing at their own charitable events this summer.

It isn't, of course, purely for the love of horses, pristine fields and competition that high society loves a polo match. Matches are played against elegant backdrops of lavish lunches, charity auctions, high-octane after parties and, of course, the chance to mix with the cream of international society, sponsored by the most dazzling luxury brands. 

Bag a table at the Cartier International, Queen's Cup, Prince of Wales Trophy or Veuve Clicquot Gold Cup this summer and return having experienced one of the highlights of 'The Season'.

EXTRA:
Coworth Park, Ascot

Coworth Park, Blacknest Rd., Ascot

Berkshire SL5 7SE
Tel. +44 1344 876 600
www.coworthpark.com
 

In fact, people have been timing yearly events for thousands of years, using massive stone observatories, right through to handier items by Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre and the other great Swiss watch marques.

Was Stonehenge a perpetual calendar? Built in about 2700 B.C., its stones include alignments with sunrise, sunset, moonrise and moonset, while some scientists think that it was used as a sort of perpetual calendar. The oldest feature of the monument consists of a ring of 56 holes, with markers that were moved around these holes from day to day. For example, moving the Sun marker anticlockwise by one hole every 13 days, the Moon marker anticlockwise two holes a day, and two other markers moved at different rates, would enable the user to predict the phases of the moon, and solar eclipses, corresponding to when all the markers were aligned.

Later in history, timepieces were made that could keep track of the date of Easter, the first Sunday after the full moon following the March equinox. This function is a feature of only the most complex grand complications, such as the famous Patek Philippe Calibre 89, built in 1989 for the company's 150th anniversary. Only four were made: the pocket watch has 24 hands and 1,728 components, which power features including perpetual calendar, moon phase, date of Easter, time of sunrise, star chart and many more. It is smaller than Stonehenge, but fairly hefty all the same, 9 cm in diameter and weighing 1.1 kg.

A more accessible perpetual calendar is offered by the Patek Philippe 5940, which has an ultra-thin self-winding movement, and a perpetual calendar that records day, date, month, leap year and phases of the moon. The gold rotor can be seen through the transparent caseback. In an attractive cushion-shaped case, the Calibre 240 Q automatically adjusts for the different lengths of the months, and leap years, so that if kept wound, it will remain correct until the year 2100, when the Gregorian calendar requires a correction consisting of considering what would normally be a leap year as a normal year.

There is no doubt that the perpetual calendar is one of the most useful complications for a watch, and many brands have launched new models in 2013. Click here to read more.

RUBY RED
The colour of passion and power, who does red better than Valentino? So much is this hue associated with the great couturier, that Valentino red has become part of everyday language and denotes a specific and unmistakable point on the colour scale. This season Valentino Red comes alive once again in a sumptuous leather trench coat, irresistible evening dresses in rich, sensual fabrics and exotic snakeskin clutch bags that are utterly Valentino.

OPULENT ORANGE
The quintessence of summer, orange is warm and reassuring like the sun as well as having a regal edge to it. Loewe is celebrated the world over for its timeless bags in the finest Spanish leathers, as well as a ready to wear collection that speaks of the brand’s unique understanding of workmanship. This season, Loewe sent stunning styles down the runway in burnished orange suede including a masterfully tailored dress with hoodie, trench coats, blazers and long shorts that flatter as they caress the body with suede’s suppleness.

VIBRANT YELLOW
Orange’s sprightlier sister, yellow is endlessly joyful in its infinite spectrum, from daffodils to precious gold, it’s ultimate incarnation. And at eternally chic Dior the colour palette is a delightful cornucopia of the season’s key nuances, and plays with shades within shades, presenting a gamut of yellows from a striking metallic lemon cocktail top to a fluorescent yellow laser cut dress to the undeniably Dior quilted clutch in buttercup calfskin.

GORGEOUS GREEN
Few colours express the arrival of spring as green does and Burberry this season captures the essence of renewal with a selection of outerwear in a verdant spectrum. Don’t miss the ultra refined and chic trench coat in seductive emerald lace or the futuristic raincoat in asparagus hued metallic leather for the rock-chic urban princess and a unique textured leather bolero in chartreuse and bottle green that is the epitome of cool.

BLISSFUL BLUE
Pal Zileri plays with an entire range of blues this summer -one of nature’s most generous and glorious palettes - from the palest sky blue for classically tailored shirts to impeccably cut periwinkle linen blazers as well as a cobalt blue suede jacket that captures just the right combination of suave and sophisticated. Complemented by a range of tonal accessories from scarves to ties, the collection hits the perfect note for dapper gentlemen all over the world.

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This is reflected by some watchmaking terminology. 'Tourbillon' is usually translated as 'whirlwind,' but in actual fact, Abraham-Louis Breguet chose the word for his invention because it had been used by Descartes to describe planetary motion. An automatic perpetual calendar watch is the perfect expression of the horological dream: building a machine that keeps track of astronomical time, without adjustment, never running down.

The complication of a perpetual calendar watch is due to the occasional adjustments that have to be made to keep calendar time in harmony with astronomical time. A watch that keeps track of leap years has one wheel that performs just one revolution in four years. Another correction has to be made every century. Just how perpetual the watch's calendar is, determines its complexity and prestige.

Montblanc Star Quantième Complet

Montblanc has taken a radical new approach to fine watchmaking in its Star collection, classic watches accessible to a younger segment of the market. The company's CEO Lutz Bethge told us in an interview at SIHH 2013, "We believe that there are a lot of people out there who would like to have a watch with a small complication. The Star Quantième Complet includes date, day, month, and moon phase, and in the steel version, you can get all that for 3,850 euro." It is a beautiful object, with day and month in windows above the centre, date shown by a fourth hand indicating numbers just inside the bezel, and a seconds hand with a small counterweight in the shape of the Montblanc logo. Classical and elegant, it has an alligator strap and a sapphire caseback.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grand Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee

As part of their 180th anniversary celebrations, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Master Grand Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee. This limited edition – 180 pieces, of course – combines a beautiful tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring, together with a perpetual calendar, that keeps track of the leap years so that it will only need adjusting in 2100. Stéphane Belmont, Marketing & Technical Director, explained, "Leap years ensure that we don't end up celebrating Christmas at 40 degrees! But another small adjustment is needed every 100 years – once a century, the leap year is missed out. We considered adding the additional mechanism that would enable the watch to make this correction every century, but we decided that the extra thickness involved in adding a wheel that turned once every 100 years was not justified. So you have to make that adjustment every century!" Visually, the watch is a dazzling tribute to the different dimensions of time: the flying tourbillon, which seems to be suspended in mid-air, marks off infinitesimal moments, while the beautifully-balanced dial keeps track of days, date, months and years with Jaeger-LeCoultre's legendary clarity.

IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month

IWC is also celebrating this year, but in this case, it's a cooperation with Formula One racing team Mercedes AMG Petronas. The Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month has absorbed materials and features from racing cars, with a case made in titanium aluminide, and pushers in zirconium oxide, both Formula One materials. The dial design evokes a racecar cockpit, and the rotor visible through the sapphire caseback resembles the spokes on an alloy wheel. The movement is superbly engineered, with an innovation that recalls the KERS system: the display discs for the perpetual calendar absorb some energy – particularly at the end of the year when five of them advance together – and the watch stores a tiny amount of energy every night so that it can be used at those crucial moments. Like the Jaeger-LeCoultre model, this watch indicates leap years, so that adjustment will be needed only on 1 March 2100.

Breguet Classique 5447 Grande Complication

Breguet succeeds in giving a timeless, classical aesthetic to even its most complex watches, and the Classique 5447 Grande Complication is a perfect example. It's the sort of timepiece that you're going to want to watch at the end of a year (instead of those boring fireworks or kissing the wife), when the retrograde month indicator at the 10.30 position leaps from December back down to January, while the year indicator just below makes a quarter turn, as does the day indicator opposite, and the date at the bottom. Everything is superbly legible, through the exquisite design, and the Clous de Paris guilloché on the dial that absorbs light rather than reflecting it. This piece also has a minute repeater, originally designed to be able to tell the time in the dark, and now a tour-de-force of haute horlogerie. Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the gong strip in 1783, and today, this watch incorporates centuries of research into acoustics so that the sound is clear and pleasant.

Audemars Piguet Grand Complication Royal Oak Offshore

At SIHH 2013, Audemars Piguet showcased their Grand Complication Royal Oak Offshore, in which the perpetual calendar is combined with 2 other complications, the chronograph split second, and the minute repeater. With 648 parts, each watch is assembled by a single artisan, who dedicates over 820 hours to the task. The fascination of the Calibre 2885 movement is enhanced by the openworked components that enable you to glimpse deep inside the watch, with even the tiniest parts superbly finished and bevelled. The perpetual calendar is arranged within the classic sport-oriented Royal Oak design with its octagonal bezel and visible screws, creating a very masculine, distinctive watch, waterproof to 20 metres, and with excellent acoustics for the minute repeater. Not for everybody: in two versions, one with a pink gold case, one in titanium, just three of each will be made.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar

Vacheron Constantin have also given their latest perpetual calendar watch a sports feel, in the Overseas collection. The Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is at once sumptuous, in its pink gold case, and tough, with 150 metres water-resistance, magnetic field protection, and powerful design. Technically it is a jewel, with its Caliber 1136 QP powering the chronograph and calendar functions. The display is amazingly simple, with subdials combining different parameters – for example, the subdial at 9 o'clock shows both the chronograph hours and the days of the week. In addition to this technical artistry, the watch includes an evocative scene of the tall ship Amerigo Vespucci, sculpted on the caseback.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar

At SIHH 2013, A. Lange & Söhne presented the remarkable Grand Complication, with grande sonnerie, perpetual calendar, and a rattrapante chronograph, a limited edition of six watches. The Glashütte manufacture also presented the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar, in which the large amount of data available to the user is presented with superb clarity. The design is in part a reference to the brand's long pocket watch tradition: Ferdinand A. Lange was born in 1815. Of the 631 components in the new Calibre L101.1, 200 are used for the perpetual calendar, which keeps track of leap years, with adjustment needed just in 2100, and then in 2200. Leave instruction to your great-great-grandchildren in your will.

Read more:
Montblanc watches, the power of diversity

Whether sipped by French kings after coronations at Notre Dame de Reims cathedral or Tsar Alexander II who favoured Louis Roederer Cristal, the effervescent wine with the coveted 'Champagne' title has been served at the most luxurious and important events for over three centuries.

The Champagne region is not far from Paris by TGV, providing an easy escape for a day trip or weekend. Instead of the bustle of Paris and its Champs Elysées, discover the stunning Notre Dame de Reims, explore the Avenue de Champagne in Epernay and drink Champagne at the source.

Your visit begins in Reims, the capital of Champagne. Home to many world-renowned champagne houses including Louis Roederer, Krug and Pommery, Reims is also a showcase of Gothic and Art Deco architecture. The highlight is the 800-year-old Gothic masterpiece, Notre Dame de Reims, an UNESCO World Heritage Site. The cathedral features delicate rose windows and abundant statuary, including the famous L’Ange au Sourire, the smiling angel.

Continue on to the Pommery caves where Paul-François and Nathalie Vranken, of Vranken Pommery Monopole, host modern art exhibitions underground. This year, they have collaborated with Bernard Blistène of the Pompidou Centre to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Experience Pommery cave exhibits. Across from the Pommery caves is Villa Demoiselle, an Art Deco masterpiece, where Pommery hosts tastings and tours of the family’s storied private mansion.

Be sure to make a reservation at Le Jardin Brasserie or Le Parc, a two-star Michelin restaurant, located at the Domaine Les Crayères, a beautiful oasis in the heart of Reims. Le Jardin is the ultimate spot to enjoy lunch on the terrace overlooking the grounds of the five-star Les Crayères chateau.

Venturing deeper into the region, explore the unique Jacques Selosse domain where they use winemaking methods from Burgundy to produce prized champagnes. Try Substance, Selosse’s most celebrated champagne, for its mature richness, aroma and flavour.

Next, head to the town of Epernay and its surrounding domains. In this small Champagnois town, walk the Avenue de Champagne, alleged to be the most expensive avenue in the world. Here, you’ll find the mansions of the foremost Champagne producers, which rest above chalk caves holding millions of bottles of the fine bubbly.

Of course Champagne is the best place in the world to purchase the local product to savour later. Store properly, by keeping bottles at 9-12° Celsius to allow for fine, perfect bubbles.

A visit to Champagne will enrich your appreciation of this sought-after, sparkling wine with its unbending characteristics—luxury, elegance and most of all, taste.

Burberry’s flagship store, located at the Pacific Place mall in Hong Kong, is Asia Pacific’s largest. Burberry currently has 18 boutiques in the city, and at this flagship, fanatics of British fashion just keep coming back for more. This high-tech boutique is proof that the British brand has not only taken over the world by storm, but also revolutionized the way we shop. The 3-floor retail jewel ushers you in with its crystal façade featuring the iconic check in blue. Inside, the Burberry Retail Theatre shows you digital content straight from the brand’s London headquarters. Video walls and interactive touch screens create a dynamic audio, visual and tactile experience as you try on the brand’s hottest Orchard Bag this season, or stop by Hong Kong’s first in-store Burberry Beauty counter – the perfect place to match your new pieces with beautiful makeup. Guest Wi-Fi and iPads with unlimited access will help you remember the spring/summer 2013 outfits that you have seen on burberry.com. A dedicated Very Important Customer area and bespoke services complete a truly innovative shopping experience.

Don’t leave the building yet, because the Italian master Roberto Cavalli beckons at his Hong Kong flagship, also located inside the Pacific Place. Besides stunning ready-to-wear collections, accessories and perfumes for the ladies, you can also shop for menswear, childrenswear and watch collections – all appearing for the first time at this store. If you are looking for a special dress for a big night, then head to the VIP room where you can take your time and live out the true meaning of the Cavalli world.

The ladies and gents fight over every inch of shopping territory in this land-precious city. But at Hackett’s new store on Hysan Avenue, the guys literally have the floor in the debate over style. In fact, they have two huge floors in this London townhouse-style flagship, where they can get everything from casualwear and formal suiting to polos and kidswear for the gentlemen of tomorrow. Why stress over getting a suit when you can kick back with a drink in the bar room while getting it adjusted by the in-house tailor? Keep a lookout on the flagship because the entire façade will be transformed this year in collaboration with the Prince’s Trust.

Though Causeway Bay has been one of the city’s most iconic shopping districts for decades, the opening of the Apple store still caused quite a stir amongst the Hong Kong ‘Islanders’ who were all curious to stop by and take a look. Whether you are an Apple user or not, this 3-storey flagship with an entire façade outfitted with floor-to-ceiling glass is a true techie's mecca. Make a reservation at the Genius Bar, or go check out the latest device. This Hysan Place Apple store is busier than the nearby high school, with educational workshops lined up one after another every day. A truly enlightening experience even for the techno-blasé.

1o1o Central offers a completely different yet equally memorable experience in all things cutting-edge. Walking into its gentlemen’s-club-inspired decor, you would have never guessed that this was a mobile one-stop shop. 1o1o, Hong Kong’s mobile service provider, takes you on an unforgettable journey though its ‘Grand Voyage’ theme, where six VIP areas are dedicated to lifestyle: wine, golf, horse racing, fine dining, travel, as well as the 1o1o Quintessentially zone providing worldwide concierge services. After experiencing 4G LTE, have a coffee before the end of your Grand Voyage.

Make the most of your visit in Central and stop by the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, to see Piaget’s Asia flagship. The watch and jewellery brand first set foot in Hong Kong in the mid-20th century, and its love affair with the metropolis continues well into the 21st. This stunning new store is decked out with Piaget’s newest architectural concept design and its 2013 collections – the minute repeater, Altiplano timepieces, the Limelight Gala line, and Couture Precieuse pieces – are proof of Piaget’s commitment to its dual identity as an haute horlogerie – haute joaillerie manufacturer par excellence.

This is not an exhaustive list of all the new stores that have recently opened in Hong Kong. Vera Wang, Max Mara, Longines and many more have called this city their new home. So before you leave the hotel to go shopping, ask your concierge where the closest flagships are located.

•1o1o Central 1o1o中心
G/F, 52-54 Wellington Street, Central. Tel. +852 2918 1010

•Apple Store 苹果零售店
Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay. Tel. +852 3979 3100

•Burberry 巴宝莉
Shop 101 & 201, Pacific Place, Admiralty. Tel. +852 2918 4010

•Hackett 哈克特
G/F, Eton Tower, 8 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay. Tel. +852 3101 0008

•Piaget 伯爵
Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong 香港文华东方大酒店
5 Connaught Road, Central. Tel. +852 2530 2188

•Roberto Cavalli 罗伯特-卡沃利
Shop 205, Level 2, Pacific Place. Tel. +852 2116 1700
 

When Hong Kong first opened up as a port for trade in the mid-19th century, Sheung Wan was a place where street performers gathered, providing the locals with cheap entertainment. Not only could you watch kung fu demonstrations and puppet shows, you could even get your portrait drawn by a streetside artist or see someone’s monkey doing tricks “马骝戏” for a few dollars.

After World War II, a land reclamation project turned Sheung Wan into a larger area. The locals used to call it ‘Tai Tat Dei’ 大笪地 – which literally means a big piece of land – attracting even more entertainers to this area to make a living after the conflict.

For the Hong Kongnese, entertainment is not complete without good food. Tai Tat Dei attracted residents and visitors not only with shows, but also with its famous, wok-fresh dishes prepared with locally-caught crabs, clams and squids. Seeing the popularity of this new dining scene, a number of street performers swapped their trade to become seafood vendors, setting up shops along the street.

This unique history of Sheung Wan brings us to Des Voeux Road West 德辅道西which over 200 seafood shops call home. The locals named it ‘Hoi Mei Street’ 海味街 for its concentration of seafood goods stores. A powerful waft of salty dried fish fills the air as you walk down this long road. Look for abalone, oysters, scallops and seaweed. Why not bring some home as a souvenir?

At the intersection of Queen’s Road 皇后大道 and Bonham Strand 文咸街 is where Hollywood Park 荷李活公园 is located. With a beautiful pagoda-style entrance, this historic park was built in the 1960s. Don’t get lost in the beauty of its Chinese-style landscaping though, because we still have some exploring to do.

Next, let’s visit Sheung Wan’s historic ‘medical district’ starting from One Hospital Road 医院道一号. This was where the British set up medical buildings in the 1860s when Hong Kong was a colony. Here, you will find the David Trench Rehabilitation Centre 戴麟趾康复中心, the Prince Philip Dental Hospital 菲腊亲王牙科医院 and Tung Wah Hospital东华医院.

Sandwiched between Hospital Road and High Street 高街 is King George Fifth Park 佐治五世记念公园, another reminder of Hong Kong’s British past. The densely built neighbourhood gives way to a more relaxed, atmospheric area dotted by centuries-old trees and low, four and five-storey tenement buildings, a rare sight in the city nowadays. ‘Old Hong Kong’ comes alive surreally between the Methadone Clinic 美沙酮诊所 on Eastern Street 东边街 and the colonial hospital staff quarters with its imposing stone-built façade on High Street.

Visiting Sheung Wan, you get a sense of history. Walking through the neighbourhood, you will notice that it is an international hub where French bakeries, American bars, clubs, Italian restaurants, spas, art galleries and film production companies sit alongside Chinese barber shops, rice vendors, temples, coffin makers, local community centres, public schools and even bathhouses dating from the colonial era.

So the next time you go to Central to shop or dine, don’t forget that Sheung Wan is just a few streets away. A different Hong Kong is there to be discovered.

Where:
While Hong Kong districts do not have visible borders, Sheung Wan starts roughly where Wellington Street ends and Bonham Strand begins.
If you are taking the MTR, just get off at the Sheung Wan stop. If you are on foot, keep walking west from Central along Connaught Road Central, Des Voeux Road or Queen’s Road, all of which lead you to this eclectic district.

Great eats from morning till evening ：
Breakfast/Lunch Teakha Café 茶家 – Lifestyle concept tea café 乐活概念的茶店
上环太平山街18号B铺
Shop B, 18 Tai Ping Shan Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Tel. / 电话 +852 2858 9185

Lin Heung 莲香 – Classic Hong Kong dimsum 经典香港点心
160 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong
香港中环威灵顿街160号
Tel. / 电话 +852 2544 4556

Brunch/Dinner 早午餐/晚餐
The Press Room – Modern Brasserie 现代法式餐馆
108 Hollywood Road Central, Hong Kong
荷李活道中108号
Tel. / 电话 +852 2525 3444

Trattoria Doppio Zero – Fusion Italian 混合意菜
G/F, The Pemberton
22 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
香港上环文咸街22号柏廷坊地下
Tel. / 电话 +852 2851 0682

Happy Hour/Night Cap 欢乐时光自助餐/睡前酒
Classified – Boutique wines & gourmet coffee 精选葡萄酒及咖啡
108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
香港上环荷李活道108号
Tel. / 电话 +852 2525 3454

Good examples can be seen in the contemporary tourbillon watches by Breguet, such as La Tradition Tourbillon, which actually includes four patented features and six landmark inventions. One of them can be credited to another genius, Leonardo da Vinci, whose notebooks contain a drawing illustrating a fusée that enables a mainspring to deliver energy at a constant force even while it runs down. In this watch, brilliant engineering becomes a fascinating performance, a piece of horological visual theatre.

Breguet and the tourbillon were celebrated in an exhibition titled 'Breguet, the innovator. Inventor of the Tourbillon,' at Cité du Temps in Geneva, from 21 January to 24 February 2013. The show will subsequently tour Europe, Asia, the Middle East and the U.S.A., giving the public the chance to find out more about historical tourbillons and contemporary masterpieces.

Read more:
Click here to find Breguet boutique addresses worldwide

Power players, socialites and actresses were in for a veritable treat; a sinuous rectangle that folds gently into the body like second skin, Tom Ford’s ALIX is an irresistible, completely unlined bag crafted in a selection of supple leathers and exotic skins in luxuriant hues such as indigo and shiny black. Dynamic and devastatingly chic, the ALIX is enriched by a gold-plated side zipper and padlock that give it just the right urban-glam edge. Available as both a medium shoulder bag and large tote equipped with an adjustable shoulder strap, it’s destined to become a favourite not only of the season but it’s eternal allure ensures it will gain its place in the Pantheon of timeless classics. Below, the black version. Scroll down to see some of the guests at the event, and other versions of the bag.

Below, Umberta Gussalli Beretta:

 Laura Morino Teso and Adriano Teso:

 Guglielmo Miani and Olivia Purinegri:

 Francesca Senette:

 Federica Fontana and Ana Laura Ribas:

 Elenoire Casalegno:

 Elena Barolo:

Cristina Parodi and Gabriella Magnoni Dompé:

Anna Repellini:

Below, the ALIX bag in ivory, nude and cobalt blue versions:

Read more fashion stories

Let’s start our day with a cup of excellent Chinese tea over breakfast at Lock Cha Tea Shop, located above Pacific Place. Choose from a fine vegetarian dimsum menu and several dozens of prestigious teas that you can brew at your table. After breakfast, let’s take the escalator down to the mall. Pacific Place is very large so you might want to decide what you want to look at first. For classic, uber-sophisticated choices, you will find Alfred Dunhill, Bottega Veneta, Canali, Ermenegildo Zegna, Gucci, Hermès, Loro Piana, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo and Versace on the third floor. Here, you can look for a timepiece to match your newest suit – or something extravagant for your significant other – at the Watch & Jewellery Gallery, where Audemars Piguet, Bulgari, Chopard, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Tiffany & Co. and Van Cleef & Arpels gather under one roof.

Have your shopping bags sent back to your hotels, because we are off to Landmark Atrium. Designed like a cube with multiple accesses, it is home to many luxury brands, but it is the basement floor that we are interested in. Landmark Men is a space of over 5,500 square metres dedicated to the gents. Neil Barrett menswear, British shirtmaker Thomas Pink, Parisian shoemaker Corthay, jewellery and lifestyle items John Hardy, multilabel boutique The Armoury, Joyce Grooming and spa-slash-barbershop Gentlemen’s Tonic create a sophisticated experience for the man who has everything.

Another reason for coming to Landmark Atrium is Harvey Nichols. Events are held every week at this 5-storey department store. Whether it is the Smythson gold stamping service, the launch of an exclusive Vita Fede x Sellot limited edition iPhone 5 case, or meeting British designers up close and personal, chances are that something special will be happening while we are here. Shop from its unique selections by the Korean duo Wooyoungmi, Belgian fashion label Krisvanassche, new British knitwear and jersey designer Markus Lupfer and others, and stand out from the fashion-conscious crowd.

Our last stop on the island is ifc. Upon arrival in Hong Kong, you must have seen the 88-floor ifc two tower. Did you know you can go up this skyscraper? From its dizzying heights, you can literally get a new perspective of the city. After taking a few photos, let’s get back down to business because we still have lots of shopping to do.

Ifc offers a different experience with its spacious, expansive design where you can walk around and do some people-watching. Ifc mall has a wide range of boutiques, so let’s zoom in on the best for gents. Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, Gieves & Hawkes and Tom Ford are some of the men’s fashion here, while on the watches and jewellery front, we have Blancpain, Chaumet, Links of London, Officine Panerai, Omega, Rolex and so on.

While ifc has almost every imaginable global label, Lane Crawford is something you will not find elsewhere. Its flagship store here boasts a great lineup of fashion, from 3.1 Phillip Lim, Comme des Garçon’s Homme and Rick Owens, to Alexander Wang, Carven, Junya Watanabe and Maison Martin Margiela. Expand your style vocabulary with tailoring brands like Caruso, Drakes, Finnamore, Hancock, Isaia, Mr. Start, and Uman. Lane Crawford provides made-to-measure services in March and September when you can make an appointment and enjoy an exclusive sartorial experience with tailors from renowned brands.

One of the best things about shopping in Hong Kong is that malls and boutiques stay open till late, so we’re not done yet! Kowloon is our next stop. Outside ifc, we get on the Star Ferry which takes us across Victoria Harbour. You can see Harbour City’s towering entrance right on the waterfront. This is one of Kowloon’s most popular shopping centres. Inside, the atmosphere is buzzing with energy and the boutiques are always busy with both shoppers and diners. Outside, Canton Road has an endless lineup of flagship stores of the world’s most beloved brands: Chanel, Gucci, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, and the list goes on. Here, you will find over 200 cosmetics and skincare labels, as well as Hong Kong’s largest retail area for children.

As the sun sets over Hong Kong, let’s cross Canton Road to 1881 Heritage for a decidedly atmospheric shopping experience. Former Marine Police Headquarters turned lifestyle destination, the colonial-style 1881 Heritage now houses over a dozen haute horlogerie and jewellery brands. A. Lange & Söhne, Roger Dubuis and IWC Schaffhausen have their flagships here, and you will also find Breguet, Cartier, Jaeger LeCoultre, Montblanc, Piaget, Rolex, Tiffany & Co., Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels.

This is far from the end of our shopping adventures, but we hope that this brief guide will give you an idea of what you can find and where. Luckily, since almost every brand has multiple locations in Hong Kong, chances are that if you miss a shop, you will find it in another location. Our last piece of advice? Have your driver organize your day and take care of the shopping bags. Trust me, you will need the help.

Lock Cha Tea House
The K.S. Lo Gallery, Hong Kong Park
Tel. +852 2801 7177

Pacific Place
88 Queensway
Tel. +852 2844 8988

Landmark Men
11 Pedder Street, Central
Tel. +852 2530 4725

Harvey Nichols at Landmark
11 Pedder Street, Central
Tel. +852 3695 3388

Hong Kong ifc Mall
8 Finance Street, Central
Tel. +852 2295 3308

Lane Crawford at Hong Kong ifc Mall
8 Finance Street, Central
Tel. +852 2118 3388

Harbour City
3-27 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel. +852 2118 8666

1881 Heritage
2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel. +852 2926 8000

But really, to embrace the power of now and look à la mode, not to mention inject a little fun, we need to look to the trends. This season, monochromes, flavours of the Orient and ruffles are making fashion headlines, but if you're concerned about today's styles becoming yesterday's news, it's all about identifying the wearable trends that will stay in vogue for years. Take, for example, military styling, which has seen countless incarnations since commanding wardrobe wear five years ago; or neons, which are once again back for spring summer 2013 – the key to trends is that they always come around! So if you're of a pedigree that wore Mary Quant's monochromes during the Sixties, and still have the fashions – and figure – to wear them, then this can give an even more fashion-forward way of working one of this season's key trends. 

One stylist LUXOS spoke to advised to buy classic key items, and accessorize them with on-trend accessories – say by teaming that Pal Zileri shirt with one of Dior Homme's leather bomber jackets. And remember that trends aren't restricted to clothing: the jewel-coloured eyeliners that swept the Spring Summer 2013 catwalks can be worn with anything. It's also smart for conservative dressers to place a subtle nod to broader trends. For example, this season's penchants for pastels and ruffles are captured in Mulberry's runway dresses, which are timeless enough to last for decades.

Of course, it all comes down to personality, age, lifestyle and comfortability: whether you're a Hugo Boss power dresser or a Maison Martin Margiela woman, the most powerful way of dressing is as yourself, whoever that may be on the day.

De rigeur is a visit to the world famous Ladurée, an institution of deliciousness that perfected the ‘macaron’, a heavenly piece of confectionary that is crispy and crumbly on the outside and gorgeous gooiness within! Ladurée’s selection of flavours is utterly winning, from rose to caramel with salted butter to cognac laced! If you don’t have time to sit down and enjoy the historic and charming ‘salon de thé’, be sure to pop in and pick up some to go; the macarons may disappear in flash, but the wonderful boxes they are packaged in are perfect for storing old letters, pictures and precious bits and bobs!

Next stop: Maille, the home of mustard and if savoury rather than sweet is your thing, Maille is just the place! The company’s first mustard was created by Antoine Maille in 1720 who went on to become the King of France’s official supplier of mustard! Today you can find not only traditional white wine mustard, but a heady selection that includes mustard with Chablis and black truffle, or cassis infused or even flavoured with hazelnuts to name just a few. You can also hand pump your own little pot to take home with you from a large traditional earthenware jar, in addition to an array of vinegars and nut and olive oils!

Last but certainly not least: Fauchon…a treasure trove for foodies bursting with the best France has to offer…from foie gras with marron glacès and chocolate to truffles to King Crab and the best jams ever, presented in unmistakably French packaging. Now that you’re stocked up, enjoy the shows!

Ports 1961, has upped the luxury ante, with a collection tailored in stupendous fabrics with a rich luscious hand, exquisitely pleated chiffon, soft, shimmery silk embellished with twinkling crystal embroidery as well as plenty of Astrakhan. Fiona Cibani’s timeless and elegant designs exude lavishness and refinement.

At Ermanno Scervino, the designer outdid himself this season with a lady-like and plush collection; the 50’s inspired silhouettes with wasp waists and A-line asymmetrical skirts had a paradoxically futuristic ethos too, where the future lies in the retrieval of tradition. The collection was crafted in delectable Angora wool, python, organza and crepe de chine with explosions of Swarovski crystals. Fur also took centre stage on collars, as stoles and scarves or adorable head handkerchiefs giving the whole collection an utterly irresistible and deluxe edge. The Scervino woman once again was the embodiment of sophisticated refinement and magnificent on-trend allure.

Soft Power - the buzz phrase coined by Harvard professor Joseph S Nye's book - is the pragmatic, empathic and caring retort to the all-guns-blazin' tactics of hard power. With the latter wars are waged, ultimatums issued and wallets waved. “Seduction is always more effective than coercion, and many values like democracy, human rights and individual opportunities are deeply seductive.” Nye states. 

Last year, thanks to the Olympics and Diamond Jubilee, Britain finally knocked the USA from the top spot of the World Soft Power list. Could this be Britain's most culturally important year yet?
Look to the Olympics opening ceremony to see what was arguably the embodiment of soft power. It showcased everything the nation's reputation rides upon - from heritage to social care, the founding of the world wide web to fashion, music and James Bond - direct to every television across the world.

The English monarchy has been instrumental in keeping Britain on top through the global economic crisis - buoying both the nation's spirits and image via the royal wedding, diamond jubilee and future king or queen who'll greet the world this summer. Since marrying Prince William, the Duchess of Cambridge has enjoyed her position as the most influential woman in style globally. Items she wears - from the classic Burberry trench coat she donned to visit Belfast to the Alice Temperley Moriah dress she wore to Wimbledon -frequently sell out within hours.

British designers have been quick to jump on the nation's fashion cache by rolling out its creative capital across the world - combining the UK's impeccable craftsmanship and tailoring pedigree with the cutting edge progressiveness and creativity for which the country became renowned in the Sixties. 

Burberry leads the pack - the heritage brand's image is undeniably British while still being thoroughly cutting edge, as exemplified in its 121 Regent Street 'Burberry World Live' flagship, where plasma screens and interactive mirrors grace the Grade II listed retail space alongside Burberry Bespoke, and the mission statement lies in 'seamlessly blurring physical and digital worlds'. The luxury house's online endeavours - from being the first brand to air their catwalk shows live online and in 3D - are leagues ahead of the fashion pack, and the Burberry World Live events, where acoustic acts perform at secret gigs against giant catwalk backdrops to style insiders in 3D glasses - convey so much more about the brand and its positioning in the global style league than mere tailoring and cuts (which, of course, Burberry nevertheless leads the fashion world in, too).

In fact the luxury industry in general is extending its arms far beyond the reaches of its perfectly tailored shirtsleeves with charitable and artistic foundations becoming a worthy medium through which to weigh its influence - from the Prada Foundation to the Cartier Women's Initiative Awards.

Just as Mary Quant and Jeff Banks, Biba and Vivienne Westwood came to define British style in the 1960s and 1970s (interestingly, Westwood - the only designer of the set who had a message, and that message was punk - is the only name still thriving today), the turn of the millennium saw the rise of a new tranche of high fashion arbiters whose empires continue to grow. Stella McCartney - with her clean, green and animal-friendly ethos supports numerous charitable foundations. Jimmy Choo is arguably the leading shoe designer worldwide, Mulberry has been one of the biggest fashion success stories this decade, while Alexander McQueen - and his incumbent, Sarah Burton - have brought a return to the kind of sharp tailoring, wearability and instantly recogniseable style that the British designers of the Sixties and Seventies championed. Coming up behind them, Christopher Kane, Alice Temperley and Erdem could be the McQueens and McCartneys of tomorrow. 

It's this legacy of talent that's contributed to Britain knocking the USA off the top spot, and made it a 'global cultural magnet' (while being far smaller, it has the same national spend on public diplomacy as its transatlantic neighbour). Rule Britannia! (Though softly does it, please). 

Flowers, grass, moss, and stones are portrayed through the patterns of the blouses, dresses, high waisted culottes, and camisoles displayed across a neutral color palette, interrupted by moments of brightness. Nature is further defined though dresses weaved in entirety of tricot, representing that of an elaborate cobweb.

From head to toe, Kristina redefines the micro to macro transformation in an abstract way that leads one to dwell on the boundless possibilities of recreation and fashion in our world. It will be interesting to see how the fashion shops interpret this new art in the upcoming seasons.

 Read more:
Ermanno Scervino women's collection fall/winter 2013-14

Warm colour on a cold day. Photograph by Nam, courtesy grazia.it

Dark military with touches of red. Photographs by Bridget Fleming, courtesy vanityfair.com

Impeccable class and composition. Photograph by Kuba Drabrowski, courtesy www.com

It snowed for much of Milan fashion week (fall/winter 2013-2014 shows).  Photograph by Kuba Drabrowski, courtesy www.com

Absolute courage.  Photograph by Kuba Drabrowski, courtesy www.com

Vivienne Westwood often uses combinations of tartans. Here, added colour from hat and gloves.  Photograph by Kuba Drabrowski, courtesy www.com

Perfect high-tech class.  Photograph by Kuba Drabrowski, courtesy www.com

Glorious fluoro red. Photograph by Kuba Drabrowski, courtesy www.com

Check this out!  Photograph by Kuba Drabrowski, courtesy www.com

Fashionable protection.  Photograph by Kuba Drabrowski, courtesy www.com

Alberto Moretti's Frou Frou (fall/winter 2013-14, shown above) is a sandal covered in soft red fur with violet sheepskin interiors. The brand's collection for next winter also includes Sympa (shown below), in leopard-print pony, with generously-sized fringes of red fur.

Jimmy Choo's fall/winter 2013-2014 collection includes the court shoe below, with a mink fur cuff that will at least keep your ankles warm. (The collection is all about the foot as an erogenous zone, so a bit of exposed skin is going to be inevitable).

Swiss brand Bally know all about the cold, and the fall/winter 2013-14 collection presented in Milan on 24 February 2013 had some very warming looks, including these furry boots.

Lastly, we can't resist Vivienne Westwood's recipe (fall/winter 2013-14, Gold label) for beating the snow. Just wear boots that take you higher than even the deepest drifts!

Their first shop, offering exclusively Montblanc writing instruments and corresponding stationery goods, opened its doors in Hamburg in 1919. This showroom was a forerunner of today’s modern luxury boutiques. Once again, the visionary founders were far ahead of their times. Their “Meisterstück“ was indeed a masterpiece of fine craftsmanship that would evolve into an international bestseller whose original shape remains all but unchanged to this very day.

Over the years, Montblanc became a synonym for precision work and the luxury of taking extra time as needed. As a logical consequence, Montblanc entered a related business, which requires the same kind of precision and time expenditure. In 1997, a Montblanc proprietary timepiece manufacture in Le Locle, at the heart of the Swiss Jura range, was established. With the acquisition of Minera, a small Villeret-based traditional watchmaking business well-known for its unusual hand-crafted products, Montblanc was able to broaden its own horological expertise.

Le Locle offers a welcome respite from our fast-paced society where one trend follows on the heels of another; where technology quickly becomes obsolete and is replaced, and where we dash from one appointment to the next. Le Locle is a rare haven where time doesn’t seem to play a role – even though time is, in fact, at the centre of everything here. The location of the Montblanc Manufacture is an almost magical place. Here, you still have time. The time needed to carry out the numerous individual steps that lead to a consummately perfect, highly precise instrument. Montblanc’s master watchmakers are deeply rooted in their craft, which presupposes exceptionally sure instincts and plenty of heart and soul. Everything in Le Locle is perfectly in keeping with the spirit of the pioneering Nicolas Rieussec, who was vaulted into the annals of watchmaking history over 190 years ago when his chronograph was patented.

The creative team at Montblanc was spot on in forging the instantly recognizable Nicolas Rieussec chronographs. Unlike other chronographs, instead of featuring two pushers next to the crown, this timepiece has a single pusher at 8 o’clock. A monopusher chronograph unifies the three functions of start, stop and reset, thus allowing ergonomically optimal operation with the right thumb. Moreover, modelled after the first Rieussec chronographs, this chronograph has a pair of rotating discs. At the 8 o’clock position, a small disc counts the elapsed stop seconds. The second disc at the 4 o’clock position tallies up to 30 elapsed minutes. The twin discs on the new Rieussec chronographs are affixed to the dial by means of a red gold-plated bridge into which eye-catching ruby bearings are inserted to accept the tips of the staffs of the elapsed-seconds and elapsed-minutes hands.

This watch is perfectly suited for the modern cosmopolitan. Its elegant dial has an off-centre sub-dial to show the ordinary time as well as large apertures which allow a view to the partially skeletonised twelve-hour disc. This in turn reveals a second time zone, the home time. In place of a hand, here too, Rieussec’s rotating disc principle is put into action. The ingenious technical solution with three rotating discs gives this timepiece its outrageous aesthetic appeal and makes the dial part of the movement – absolutely stunning!
Under its distinctive face lies the new MB R210 self-winding in-house movement which combines classic chronograph mechanics with technological advances in a unique way. This innovative movement is precision-engineered with painstaking care at the Montblanc Manufacture.

Rome wasn’t built in a day. Before the timepieces are ready to leave the manufacture in Le Locle they are subjected to a strict 500-hour test that simulates the watch’s first years of operation. This technique guarantees that each part, however fragile, will work reliably and durably.

An outstanding movement should be enhanced by an appropriate casing. The sapphire crystal watchback provides a view of the spectacular interior. The case and clasp are in 18-carat red gold; the armband is shaped from exquisite alligator leather and provides the finishing touch. The new Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Open Home Time has athletic appeal while also being elegant. This timepiece helps you to keep your fingers on the pulse of time. It enthrals with its unmistakable, timelessly beautiful design and technical precision down to the last detail. This is the Swiss art of watchmaking at its very finest.

The Swarovski was everywhere, on the day dresses and tops, glittering constellations enhancing bust and waistline, above short pleated skirts. Trousers were cut high at the ankles, to reveal the laced D'Orsay heels. Romantic, feminine softness was combined with elements of tough streetwise looks, such as biker-gear padding sculpted by curving lines of stitching, and inserts of leather and flannel. In some garments, the skin played an important part, its warmth emerging in geometric patterns from intricate open-work. Everything was coordinated, with small bags in leopard print matching scarves and shoes made from the same material. It was all very soft, very wearable. The collection reached its height of beauty in the evening gowns, with a lovely strapless dress in white satin, leaving the back entirely exposed down to the waist, and another fluttering pink dress, a complex composition of dusty pink organdy in which the complexity of the fabric was like the evanescent organic veils of a Portuguese man-o-war.

Amidst the broad volumes of pure colour, the details shone, perfectly-placed accents, such as a narrow silvery metal belt, a mauve python bag, and those scarves, ever-present with their remiscences of classic Grace Kelly and Audrey Hepburn. When Ermanno Scervino stepped out at the end, he acknowledged the applause first on the left of the hall, then the right, as if in a politically-correct reminder of tomorrow's elections for a new Italian government.

Read more:
Ermanno Scervino men's fall/winter 2013-2014 collection

The “1888” solitaire ring, whose name alludes to the founding year of the long-standing Swiss company Bucherer, is perfection and fascination in its purest form. Only diamonds that meet all quality criteria with the highest classifications may ultimately adorn this timelessly beautiful ring. Decisive here are the so-called four Cs as in “cut”, “colour”, “clarity”, and “carat”, which are strictly examined by Bucherer’s experienced specialists. A perfect cut is what first breathes life into a raw diamond and allows it to shine with an unearthly luminosity. Its size must be at least 6.5 millimetres or one carat and it must captivate with unfailing, flawless quality. In other words, even a 10-fold magnification reveals no inclusions within the diamond. These strict criteria for the “1888” solitaire ring are met by only a handful of diamonds each year – to give you an idea, as many as can fit into a single champagne glass. So this ring is an extremely rare treasure, as unique as the love of your life.

The design, conceived in Bucherer’s own studio, is purposely discreet and pays tribute to the solitaire’s extraordinary quality. Many hours of masterful craftsmanship go into this timelessly beautiful ring, which is forged with fabulous platinum at Bucherer’s traditional Lucerne studio. The felicitously-designed 6-claw mounting allows for optimal light diffusion, letting the king of gems sparkle in all the colours of the spectrum.

Bucherer’s peerless 1888 solitaire ring allows you to silently express your admiration, adoration and affection in the most beautiful way. After all, a diamond is not just any gift. It is a gift for the love of your life!

The piece is also available in two stainless steel versions, one with a silver dial, the other with a grey ruthenium dial. The watch is equally impressive when seen from the back. The narrow bezel gives more space for the sapphire crystal which reveals the classic Glashütte three-quarter plate with Glashütte ribbing, off-centre skeletonized 21-carat gold rotor, blued screws, and hand-finished balance cock with duplex swan neck fine adjustment.

The watch is completed by an alligator strap, with colour and finish varying according to the model.

Read more:
Glashütte Original, an overview
Find Glashütte Original boutiques

Following porcelain painting studies at the Meissen Manufactory and in Dresden, Barcelona (where she took up portrait painting full time) was another formative location on this artist’s career path. Her paintings constitute a liaison with her subjects - an artistically celebrated reality within which one can truly lose oneself. Utmost intensity and a frequently intense direct effect awaken a desire to see the world through Kristin's eyes.

Her brilliant visual creativity often takes the form of series of paintings. Her cycle “Frida…Viva la vida!”, a tribute to the famous Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, won the 2006 Kaiserwerther Art Prize. Her 6-part, 5-metre wide Brecht cycle in oil on canvas reveals an inspired interpretation of 'The Threepenny Opera.' She approaches her works with an independent and dynamic style, with absolutely no taboos. Obviously, artistic talent and passion run in her blood; she is extreme in her passion and passionately extreme. The eyes behold her images in an unfiltered way as they get into our heads to rack our brains, to be deciphered and comprehended. She refreshes the art scene immensely even though – or perhaps because - her works are also polarizing. An expression of depraved purity or pure depravity. Full of charm yet shameless.

A femme fatale, Kristin Dembny lives and works in a studio in Düsseldorf and currently does a lot of painting on commission. Should you want to commission a painting – either a portrait or a composition – the artist will receive you with an open spirit and an open heart. Her credo is that the attention she demands from you, in other words, the valuable time that is consumed, will be reciprocated with something that is even more precious. Wonderful things happen when this succeeds.

"I think that luxury is an expression of love. A luxury item is often given as a gift, to someone you love or appreciate. You look for something with a special touch, that speaks to the personality of the person, and then you say, I want this relationship to last for ever, so you buy something that has this special ingredient, so that in ten or twenty years you can say, I'm still proud of this, it's still so beautiful."

One very special feature about Montblanc's watches is their diversity, reflecting the two manufactures, one at Villeret producing some of the most extraordinary and innovative timepieces on the market today such as the ExoTourbillon Chronograph, and one at Le Locle, in which space-age technology and cutting-edge design are combined in watches in the Star, TimeWalker and Nicolas Rieussec collections. The two manufactures work in a mutually beneficial synergy, so that, for example, the Nicolas Rieussec watches are made in Le Locle, with an important horological design contribution from Villeret. We asked Lutz Bethge to summarize the most important new products shown at SIHH 2013.

"There are a few really big things. First, we believe that there are a lot of people out there who would like to have a watch with a small complication, something that makes the watch a bit more exciting, but they don't want to spend 10,000 Euro for that. We have worked on creating pieces that are attractive and beautiful, in the price range below 5,000 Euro. For example, in the Star line there is the Quantième Complet, which includes date, day, month, and moon phase, and in the steel version, you can get all that for 3,850 Euro."

It is a beautiful object, with day and month in windows above the centre, date shown by a fourth hand indicating numbers just inside the bezel, and a seconds hand with a small counterweight in the shape of the Montblanc logo. Classical and elegant, it has an alligator strap and a sapphire caseback.

"Then we have a new watch in the TimeWalker line, the TimeWalker World-Time Hemispheres. We know that many of our customers have friends and business colleagues who live in different time zones. So we have worked on the world time complication, but we have tried to give it a design twist, making it a bit more sporty. The version with steel bracelet and black dial retails at 4,390 Euro, while the version with white dial and black leather strap costs 3,790 Euro."

The design of this watch is very TimeWalker, in other words, fresh and modern. It is also innovative, with the 24-hour disc at the centre of the dial, which rotates so that you can see the time all over the world, and a map of the northern hemisphere seen from above the north pole. But what happens if you often travel to the southern hemisphere?

"I usually say, buy a second watch! This reference is available in two versions, north and south, with northern or southern hemisphere cities around the bezel, and different movements – the 24-hour disc turns in opposite directions. But of course not everyone listens to me. You can turn the North watch over, and you see the opposite pole and southern-hemisphere cities engraved on the back with the respective UMT time corrections." (Shown below, the Montblanc TimeWalker World-Time Hemispheres, South).

Lutz Bethge introduced another major innovation, which is the Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours. "This watch is in a different league. This is a very special movement, an extension of the rotating discs reflecting the tradition of the first chronographs. In the Rising Hours complication, the hours are shown digitally, with skeleton numbers on a disc so that the digits change colour according to whether it is night or day. When you see it, it looks simple, but to get there wasn't so easy. Under the top white disc there is a second disc that is part grey, part dark blue, which moves only at 6.00 a.m. and 6.00 p.m., so that daytime numerals are shown in grey, and night-time numerals in blue. This is what we have achieved with this patented mechanism."

The Nicolas Rieussec has become even more striking by means of this development, with a skeletonized minute hand, and the two rotating discs for the chronograph function, controlled by a monopusher at 8 o'clock. Appearance is enhanced by the dial with grain d'orge guilloché, with an overall light tone complementing the case versions in platinum, red gold or steel.

I couldn't resist the opportunity to ask Montblanc's CEO a few marketing questions, for example on how his company manages the diversity between the different collections?

"Our diversity is an opportunity. We have four strong pillars in our brand, and that has helped us to be successful. We reached developing markets with our writing instruments much earlier, and this enabled us to gain a powerful foothold in countries such as China, Brazil or India. The 200-euro ballpoint or 300-euro wallet prepares the ground for the watches that cost much more but share the Montblanc star, which symbolizes that you are part of the successful part of society."

And what could be the role of e-commerce in Montblanc's marketing?

"There was the question of whether the customer would accept e-commerce for luxury products, because he wants to touch it, he wants to see it, he wants to get close to it, he wants explanations about it. Internet purchasing works for two reasons, convenience and price. We tested it in the U.S. last year, and this year in Germany, France and the UK, and we have seen that customers like using the system to make a gift. We offer a packaging service, and cards, and writing instruments and leather goods are ideal, because the customer knows all about the product. When it comes to watches, the situation is different, because he wants to compare various models and see the latest pieces. But without doubt, e-commerce is here to stay, and we are continuing to roll it out."

Of course the new Montblanc watches at SIHH 2013 included many more references. We will look at some of these in successive articles. The atmosphere at the Montblanc show was dynamic and optimistic, reflecting the work of a brand that is developing haute horlogerie and enabling whole new sectors of society to come into contact with the fascinating world of mechanical watches.

Read more:
Montblanc at Villeret
Montblanc Régulateur Nautique

Sicco Kopka launched his specialty coffee roasting enterprise “Maqii“ a year ago in Bad Aachen. On his quest to discover the quintessential coffee blend, he endlessly composes and arranges coffee, espresso and cappuccino. He is convinced that the roasting process is key to disclosing coffee‘s true soul. Roasting processes are quite varied and require patience, skill and an excellent sense of smell.

This master coffee roaster imparts a highly aromatic, full-flavoured and magical soul to his coffee and espresso blends. A genuine Maqii reveals itself instantly! In fact, you may never want to go back once you’ve tasted it. Only an unerring instinct for the art of roasting guarantees the characteristic Maqii signature, a distinct, unmistakable taste profile that runs the gamut from strong and malty to sweet and velvety. Moreover, Maqii has recultivated the elaborate procedure of double roasting to reduce acidity and attain coffee that is even more palatable.

While enjoyment is the main objective, Maqii is definitely all about quality right from the start. The organic green coffee beans are from economically-sustainable plantations in countries whose mere mention awakens an urge to visit: Brazil, Peru, Indonesia and India. Only single-origin, handpicked coffee beans of certified organic quality above and beyond Fairtrade standards are used at Maqii.

A detour to Aachen is definitely worthwhile but you can also enjoy the seduction of Maqii’s coffee blends – bearing such evocative names as Halleluja, Casanova or Jamaica Blue Mountain – in the comfort of your own home. Our webpage features additional useful information about your perfect cup of coffee.

Maqii, Sicco Kopka
Pontdriesch 17
52062 Aachen
Tel. +49 (0)241 4125 0239

The women's collection features high heels, exceeding 12-14 cm, with colours that include bright orange as well as natural leather, white, and the various leather textures for which the brand is famous. Styles are reinterpretations of Roberto Botticelli's classic designs: heels, wedges, platforms, boots, open toe, biker boots, trekking boots and more. Detailing is superb: lace, openwork, embroidery, liquid gilding, lurex, crystal and diamond powder, all designed to light up the night with every step she takes.

The men's shoes for fall/winter 2013-2014 are classic in forms but lusciously imaginative in colour and materials, featuring green, bordeaux and grey, in luxury leathers and skins. Each piece is rendered unique by the hand-crafted workmanship. Streetwise models include boots and biker-boots with Vibram-type soles and high-tech rubber, while the lighter footwear includes details such as laser cutting, intertwined materials, glittering embroidery, iridescent yarns and velvet, on bases consisting of python and crocodile.

Just as in the women's collection, there is a return to classicism in the men's range as well, though with creative colour and detailing. As the designer said, "We have selected the most interesting forms from the past, and we are presenting them in more contemporary and daring combinations, using innovative techniques."

Take a look at Roberto Botticelli's video featuring their stunning creations displayed in their showroom in via Senato Milano: 

Read more:
Art that walks by Roberto Botticelli

The period flavour is combined by some very contemporary features, such as the 'modular overcoat' with a removable lining, so that it can be used in different types of weather. The RVR Lardini project, reversible garments that were launched in menswear ranges at Pitti Immagine Uomo in 2011, has been extended to women's garments. They are much more than simply garments with different colours and patterns on each side: the two sides have different technical characteristics, so that a jacket becomes a waterproof garment, for example. It is presented folded in a smart pochette, ready to be packed into a suitcase, minimizing creasing and maximizing convenience for travellers. (Below, a reversible jacket in the RVR Lardini series).

Andrea Lardini said, during the presentation, "Our company had already been creating women's garments, from 1978 until about 1988, when we decided to specialize in our own menswear collections. Today we would like to return to womenswear. This collection is about the individual products; the mode in which we build our garments is our point of strength. We have always placed our product in first place, and this means that everything is manufactured in Italy. 'Made in Italy' is a positive brand in itself, and we wanted to retain this characteristic. Product quality is and always has been our prime consideration." (Below, Andrea and Luigi Lardini).

Luigi Lardini said, "Thirty-five years after our earliest experience working on women's garments, we have succeeded in returning to our origins. We have endeavoured to create products that are fairly simple, accessible in terms of cost, and a style that could be worn by anyone. We worked on Lardini archive textiles from the late 1950s and early 1960s, reviewing and lightening them a little, and also searching for some interesting details from that period, such as the buttons. Following the success of the reversible garments for men, we have introduced them for women, with a conventional fabric on one side and rainproof nylon, for example, on the other. For the moment, we have worked just on outerwear. In the future, perhaps we will extend the range to a more complete collection. We noticed that there was, to a degree, a lack of outerwear on the market, in particular as regards the more accessible price range, from about €600 up. We have tried to create a response to this gap, and our objective is to achieve a good positioning for the brand and the products."

Andrea Lardini, CEO of the company, answered some marketing questions. "The collection is intended for Italy but also for the international markets. We are particularly strong in Japan, as regards menswear. We have a dozen own-brand stores, in Italy, Russia, China and Korea, corner shops in department stores in Japan, Korea and the USA, and about 450 multibrand stores. Some markets, such as Russia, Japan and China, are a little easier to work with, because the strength of the brand emerges clearly, while the United States is more difficult, you have to have massive strength to move on that market. We tend to be fairly prudent in our marketing, and perhaps that is due to our character as a company from the Marche region. Everyone in that part of Italy is prudent. If you make a mistake on the American market, you're out."

The company's approach has certainly paid dividends. Andrea, Luigi, Lorena and Annarita Lardini are proud of their constant growth. "Our success," said Andrea, "is due to all the people who work so enthusiastically with us. For this reason, even at the moments of greatest economic crisis, we have never laid off any of our employees."

Read more:
The Lardini story

The Big Pilot's Watch Chronograph Top Gun is very striking, with its blue SuperLuminova dial, and a 46 millimetre case in ceramic and titanium, soft black strap, two practical chronograph pushers, and the characteristic date window. On the back the watch features the Top Gun logo, and the edition number, one out of 500. Retail price £10,250.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun has the classic pilot's watch simplicity, with green SuperLuminova, and a large size at 48 millimetres. This is also a 500-piece limited edition. £14,250.

The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun is a beautiful combination of the pilot's watch aesthetic with a perpetual calendar display on four subdials including phases of the moon. The year is shown on a four-digit display near 7 o'clock, months on the lowest subdial, days and small hacking seconds on the left subdial, date and power reserve (seven days) on the right subdial, and double moon phases for northern and southern hemispheres on the top subdial. Probably the most complex pilot's watch ever made, this model was launched in 2012 as part of the "pilot's watch year," and it rapidly became a classic of its type. Its technical characteristics include protection against changes in air pressure, and 6-bar water resistance. This limited edition of 250 piece retails at £30,250.

Read more:

Top 10 pilots watches 2012
Top 10 retail experiences in London
Top department stores in London
IWC and the new Ingenieur collection 2013 - interview with Dr. Carlo Ceppi

Hutch Hutchison looked at me, picked up the phone, and said, "This has the largest sapphire touchscreen of any smartphone." He turned it over, screen side down, and brought it down hard against the corner of the table. There was a bang that momentarily stopped conversation, but they all quickly started again. The phone survived unscathed, as everyone (except me) knew it would.

In the factory they test them more scientifically, by dropping ball bearings down a metre-long tube onto it. The Vertu Ti survives ball bearings four times heavier than its nearest competitor. Apart from the unscratchable sapphire glass, the phone's incredible strength is due to its materials, above all high-grade titanium, twice as hard as normal titanium, for the edges, and aerospace-standard forged aluminium for the internal frame. "The phone is five times stronger in bend strength than any other phone."

Other materials were chosen for comfort, such as the ceramic cushion that is in contact with your ear. "Ceramic is almost as hard as sapphire, and it feels just right because it conducts heat away at exactly the right speed. Have you ever experienced a plastic smartphone getting hot? That's because it's an insulator, and it doesn't conduct heat fast enough. And just imagine the feel of metal. It's cold, because it conducts heat too fast." And then there is the signature leather on the back. All beautifully contained within a cool, functional series of titanium profiles.

The Vertu Ti includes an important new development in terms of software: Android. When owned by Nokia, the people at Vertu were tied to the Nokia operating system which, alas, was the factor that caused the Finnish company to drop back in the smartphone stakes. Vertu broke away from Nokia in 2012, and so it was able to adopt Android, giving users access to the vast number of apps available. "It's a known winner. It runs at seven gigahertz, which means that even when you watch films, there's no trace of delay." The design team made just a few adjustments, such as the analogue clock display instead of the digital display. "An analogical clock enables you to see time," said Hutch, "so that when you set the alarm, you can see this little pink arrow that reassures you that it's set, and gives you an immediate idea of how much time you have in between. And events that you programme on the calendar also show up on the clock, as blue sectors around the dial."

Vertu is famous for its concierge service, in which the user can receive real-time information on what's available in the city you're in, where to rent a car, bookings for transport, entertainment and upcoming events, and so forth, provided by phone, e-mail or live chat, in nine different languages. Your respondent can even be a one-to-one, totally personal concierge. The city guide within the phone is in itself an amazing resource. The phone takes your own personal profile into consideration and discreetly suggests things and places that you would like, according to your location. This information is not a static city guide compiled by old hacks who have never even been there. It is generated by local experts and then constantly modified by the demand arriving from Vertu users, who are of course in the same category of people. In this way it takes account of the rapid changes in popularity of the most exclusive clubs. "Special privileges and benefits are available at a lot of the venues specifically for Vertu owners. You just have to wave your phone."

"Would you consider this a luxury phone?" I asked. "No. We just wanted to make the best possible mobile phone. We want the aesthetics to be right, and to last. All too often, products end up looking tatty very soon after you've bought them. There's the feel to this phone, the weight and balance."

"And how long did its development take?"

"I would tend to say, 15 years, from when Vertu was founded, but to answer your question, about two years. We're now working not on the next phone, but the one after that."

I asked Hutch whether he could tell us about a typical Vertu phone owner. "Of course, we cater for the top end, which today is rather buoyant. They would typically be the person who would buy a Mercedes AMG for say a hundred grand. They would probably buy a new one after three years. The original idea for Vertu phones was to have a replaceable engine so that it could be upgraded. Our customers didn't want it. We find that a typical Vertu owner soon buys the next model after it has appeared on the market." Other indications are provided by some of the services available in the concierge function. "They have access to state-of-the-art security services, both physical, with very competent ex-military personnel, and virtual. Data that you don't want to be intercepted can be encrypted, whether you are sending it to someone else or to the cloud."

And then, there is sound, a Vertu hallmark right from the start. "We worked with Bang and Olufsen on the sound system," said Hutch, picking up a few pieces from his components box. "You see, at the base of the phone there are two stereo loudspeakers, one on each side. They provide the best possible sound, considering the small amount of space available. There is an additional component that brings back the low frequencies that tend to get lost with such small speakers." He played the trailer for Skyfall, and the crystal-sharp images on the sapphire screen were complemented by the sound quality, satisfyingly audible even in the room packed with a thousand conversations.

"In addition, we have always had a keen interest in ringtones. The Sandpiper ring tone runs right back to our origins, and it has remained a favourite. The Ti has some London Symphony Orchestra versions, and Andrea Griminelli's beautiful solo flute performance. In a quiet environment you can even hear the man breathing."

"But there's one thing that I would like to point out," said Hutch. "On the outside of the phone, there is another microphone here, that picks up the background noise around you – such as all these people talking."

"Huh?" I said, puzzled as to why anyone should want to record background noise. He explained.

"When you're talking on the phone, the software inside compares the audio signal of your voice with the background noise picked up by the second microphone. Then it cancels the background noise, so that the person at the other end only hears your voice without all the rest."

And that, ladies and gentlemen, is when I decided that the Vertu Ti is a really smart phone.

Some extras:

Photos from the Milan Vertu Ti launch: exterior of the boutique in Via Montenapoleone:

Below, Matteo Ceccarini:

Perry Oosting and Guglielmo Miani:

Watch the video below:

There are rumours of a project with Aston Martin, who also celebrating an anniversary, but this will arrive later, in about April. It will be a meaningful collaboration. "We don't create watches that are useless. Our watches are always practical and reliable instruments, just like instruments for cars. The anniversary with Aston Martin will help communicate this idea."

At SIHH in January 2013, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented some important new pieces, above all the so-called Jubilee Collection, a trio of watches that could be considered a tribute to 19th-century watchmaking. The Master Ultra Thin 41is a very beautiful dress watch for men, that celebrates the meeting between Jacques-David Le Coultre and Edmond Jaeger in 1903. Jacques-David initially dedicated his time to developing a very thin calibre, creating the Calibre 145, just 1.38 millimetres thick. This year's model is a masterpiece of the minimalism that is pure Jaeger-LeCoultre, with sunburst dial, dauphine hands and delicate hour-indices. The Master Ultra Thin 41 is thicker, but for a good reason: it has an automatic movement. Interestingly, the maison were not worried about setting new thinness records. (Shown below in the rose gold version, and then the stainless steel version).

"We wanted it to be a reliable and precise watch, water-resistant, and we didn't want to compromise on that just for thinness records. So we worked on the case. Our concept was a simple, pure watch based on the pocket watch design of a hundred years ago. The designers worked on the movement and the case, and they found a lot of solutions. They got rid of the middle part of the case, it consists of just the back and the bezel, nothing in between. The guy who suggested this did so in the middle of the project, so we had to start from scratch! The watch is structurally interesting. The case components are not stable separately, you can bend them. Once the whole watch is assembled, it is rigid and tough. We had to create a new crystal – flat in the centre, domed at the edges – in a shape that has never been done before. Actually we received the crystal just two days before the fair!"

The Master Grand Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee may well be a record breaker, not least for the longest name in watchmaking history? This limited edition – 180 pieces, of course – combines a beautiful tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring, together with a perpetual calendar, that keeps track of the leap years so that it will only need adjusting in 2100. Stéphane explained, "This goes back to the history of the Gregorian calendar, in which the leap years are not regular. The leap years ensure that we don't end up celebrating Christmas at 40 degrees! But this calendar requires a small adjustment every 100 years. We considered adding the additional mechanism that would miss out the leap year every century, but we decided that the extra thickness involved in adding a wheel that turned once every 100 years was not justified. That's what we ask ourselves every time we consider making a watch more complicated. So every 100 years, you have to make that adjustment!" Visually, the watch is a dazzling tribute to the different dimensions of time: the flying tourbillon, which seems to be suspended in mid-air, marks off infinitesimal moments, while the beautifully-balanced dial keeps track of days, date, months and years with Jaeger-LeCoultre's legendary clarity. (Below, Master Grand Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee, front and back).

The third Jubilee watch is the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3. This incredible watch has a two-axis tourbillon in a spherical cage, with no bridge, so that it seems to be floating in the movement. The movement required two years for its development, and one of the unbelievable features is a spherical balance wheel inside a spherical hairspring. The watch has a chronograph with a digital minutes counter. The time is shown on an offset dial, and there is a day-night indicator disc. The gyrotourbillon alone has 75 components, the chronograph 400. A brilliant piece of watchmaking.

There is much, much more new for 2013. "The Rendez-Vous watch is a new interpretation of an old idea. In the 1990s we had a round watch for women called Hollywood, with a small dial in the centre, and a round bezel set with one diamond , and you could move it by turning the bezel. We found it interesting to keep the idea of Rendez-vous, and so we added the star motif." This watch, with an automatic movement visible through the sapphire caseback, is an example of the great attention paid to women's watches by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Below, the Rendez-Vous watch.

The Deep Sea Vintage Chronograph was also interesting for its use of a new material. "Cermat is a combination of ceramic and aluminium. We are always looking at the new materials developed in other industries. What we like about Cermat is that it makes the watch is very light, but also very strong."

There is no doubt that Jaeger-LeCoultre's commitment to research and development pays dividends for collectors. "Of course, people buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch because they like it, and if you are lucky enough, it will increase in price. Over recent years, we have seen how the prices of antique Jaeger-LeCoultre watches has increased, with pieces such as the Polaris, Reverso and the Deep Sea reaching prices much higher than the original purchase price. Watches sold 10 years ago at 2,000 CHF are now selling for 40,000 CHF."

We asked Stéphane Belmont whether different watches were more successful on different markets.

"All our products are successful worldwide. But in Asia, instead of the stainless steel Master Control, they tend to buy the pink gold version, perhaps with some small diamonds set on the bezel. In Europe we sell more Reversos, while in Asia, they prefer the round watches. For ladies it's different, the Reverso Duetto is a worldwide success. Of course, we sell more gold versions in Asia, but that's the same pattern as for men's watches. Regarding technical watches such as the Deep Sea or the Master Compressor, these are selling quite well across the globe.

"Women are becoming more interested in fine watches, and this is partly due to the watches made by fashion brands. They love our men's ultra-thin model, at 42 mm diameter. Women can wear 39 mm or 42 mm watches, they are much more flexible than men. They love the 80th anniversary edition of the Reverso, the one with the black dial."

And what about the boutique experience, retail and e-commerce? "We are now designing larger boutiques so that we can display not only the complete range of watches, but also the art and the metiers. People buying watches want to know about them, they want to grow with the brand. The fundamental thing is the human touch: no machine, no computer can answer the important questions. People come with particular questions, and we have to provide particular answers. Sometimes the reverse happens: people buy a watch without knowing what it has. I remember talking to a customer who had just bought a Reverso Gyrotourbillon, and I explained a lot of things about the watch, how there is an additional hairspring on the power reserve so that you have always the right indication, and all the details that make the watch really special, and he was really pleased about it, to find that he had bought a watch with so much inside!"

Read more:
The Reverso anniversary in 2011
2012 interview with the Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert
Find Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques worldwide

Below, Chris O'Dowd and Franklin Adler. Photo by Bircan Tulga

Below, Holly Valance, photo by Bircan Tulga:

Below, the event was held at the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel in London. Photo by Bircan Tulga:

Below, Florence Knight. Photo by Bircan Tulga:

Below, Gillian Anderson, with Adler earrings in white gold set with Columbian emeralds and diamonds, photo by Bircan Tulga:

Below, Grace Woodward. Photo by Bircan Tulga

Below, Indre Serpytyte-Roberts. Photo by Bircan Tulga:

Below, Jason and Sharon Huang. Photo by Bircan Tulga:

Below, Laura Carmichael, wearing Atlantis earrings by Adler, in carbon and yellow gold set with fancy yellow diamonds, photo by Bircan Tulga:

Below, Bonnie Wright, wearing diamond earrings in white gold set with pear-shaped diamonds and emeralds, by Adler. Photo by David M. Benett:

Below, Petronella Wyatt, photo by David M. Benett:

Below, Sophie Ellis Bextor, wearing a necklace in white gold set with rubies and diamonds by Adler. Photo by David M. Benett:

The event highlighted the family tradition of Adler, a brand whose history runs back to Jacques Adler, born in Vienna, who opened his first workshop in Istanbul in 1886. At that time the city was the world capital of jewellery. Today, Adler still creates jewellery that combine Eastern opulence and Western design. Its pieces are sold exclusively in the brand's stores in Geneva, Gstaad, London and Hong Kong, with additional sales points in Tokyo, Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Doha. Jacques Adler's descendants continue the tradition: Carlo, Franklin and Leylâ Adler work at the company headquarters in Geneva, and Allen Adler, representing the fourth generation, is involved in finance and management.

Read more:

Adler premier design jewellery
Harry Handelsman and the amazing St Pancras Renaissance Hotel
Exclusive shopping in Geneva
Find Adler boutiques

“Our product is the star,” said Marco Probst, CEO of Delvaux. “I think it’s a good moment for us. Customers are no longer looking for the obvious. We’re not a house that does in-your-face bags and I like it that way.”

The first Delvaux collection under the new executive team turned the heads of fashion’s elite last fall/winter, and this spring/summer collection is no different. Delvaux’s reinterpretation of iconic styles with modern influences, such as exotic hand-painted python on the classic Madame bag, is the type of thing the fashion world devours. Another favourite for spring/summer is the reinvented Tempête bag. Originally created in 1967, the Tempête is one of the most coveted styles the house has ever made.

Have bag, will travel
In 1829, long before Hermès, Vuitton, or Moynat, even before Belgian independence, it was innovator Charles Delvaux who began creating the ‘it-bag’ for fashionable travellers. Delvaux’s dedication to its fine craftsmen and quality products led it to become Belgium’s Royal Warrant Supplier for leather goods in 1883, a title it still holds. The aristocratic association between Belgium and Delvaux is one of its most identifying marks, and one that led Franz Schwennicke to purchase the brand in 1930.

Schwennicke was a visionary before the term even existed, and is credited with having created the idea of seasons for luxury accessories, insisting that Delvaux produce two collections per year. Drawing upon the original cornerstone of the brand, the travel trunk, in 1946, Delvaux introduced the first lightweight suitcase framed in aluminium. The Avia Airess, recognizable from its signature Saint Christopher medal on the top, a sign of protection for travellers, was also the first creation of its kind to receive a patent in 1953. The Avia Airess became the iconic travel bag of the elite well through the 1970s.

Fascinatingly, many Delvaux bags produced in the 1960s are still the styles that define the heritage brand today. The iconic Brillant bag, for example, was originally introduced in 1960, and is now reinvented each season, without changing its subtle sophistication and signature D-buckle. The Madame bag, created in 1967, is another benchmark style for the house that retains its class and style with perfection.

A new era for Delvaux
The house of Delvaux has gone through several transformations over the last 184 years. The most challenging was to first show the world that Brussels could be a centre for luxury and fashion. Solange Schwennicke, who was the first woman to head the brand in 1970, did just that. Under her leadership, Delvaux became a European trendsetter and a global luxury brand, with expansion as far away as Japan. She passed on the business to her son, François Schwennicke, in 1995, and he has remained an active member of the executive board ever since.

Thanks to Solange Schwennicke, Delvaux established a global reputation for style and quality; however, this distinction risked becoming irrelevant during the boom of mass-produced luxury signature bags over the last decade. Understanding the importance of adapting to the modern era of luxury, Delvaux sought the support of Fung Brands Limited. In 2011, the family-owned and run business based in China purchased 80 percent of the Belgian heritage brand. With this acquisition, Delvaux welcomed a new executive trio who combine a successful track record at some of the finest luxury houses in the world, including Céline, Givenchy, and Louis Vuitton.

Chief Executive Officer, Marco Probst, helms Delvaux’s new course in today’s luxury leather market. Probst is recognized throughout the luxury world for his work at Chloé and Hugo Boss, and has plans to re-establish Delvaux as the pinnacle of international affluence.

It is clear that the original trunk makers behind the brand are long gone, but their legacy of quality design and innovation remains. With new management and new collections, Delvaux remains an intrinsic element of Belgian heritage, continuing to create timeless heirloom bags, meant to be handed down from generation to generation, as they have been for the past 184 years.
 

There is nothing like the story of a romance, and perhaps the greatest embodiment of this is the proposal, the ring a gleaming heirloom of a tale of love to be told, cherished and worn throughout the generations. The first recorded diamond engagement ring in history was presented in 1477 by Archduke Maximilian to Mary of Burgundy. It was a classic solitaire with round brilliant, still the most popular model today.

Even when it comes to solitaires the possibilities are endless - brilliant-cut, emerald, cushion, oval, pear-shaped... It all depends on the cut of the stone, one of the requirements of the 4Cs grading system. Harry Winston takes these standards beyond the 4Cs expertly selecting each gem and handcrafting each ring in a shank that best matches the radiance of the stone. You can choose from a simple yet elegant platinum band, one with baguette side stones or, the recent favourite, a micropavèd band. Though do keep in mind the width of the shank, with the addition of the wedding and eternity bands, the jewellery can become very heavy on this finger. In fact perhaps due to popular demand, the jeweller to the stars has recently created the new bridal line 'Belle' a combination of a round brilliant-cut diamond set in a micropavèd bezel with matching shank - embodying the label's timeless elegance.

And when it comes to diamonds, Tiffany & Co. shines a light entirely of its own. With standards that go beyond the norm, each Tiffany Diamond is meticulously graded for cut, colour, clarity and carat weight. The stone is then preciously uplifted to glow in all its radiance in the Tiffany Setting – occupying a heartfelt place in many a tale since 1886.

For while flamboyant gems such as purple and padparadscha sapphires and exceptionally rare coloured diamonds came into vogue last decade, the classic tastes à la mode require more traditional stones and cuts. Diamonds are still very much the gem of choice, and white the overarchingly popular colour, although De Beers Diamond Jewellers report that more mature couples – those aged from their thirties upwards – increasingly opt for more adventurous yellow and pink fancy diamonds, as opposed to young couples in their twenties and solo gentleman proposers, who play by the book with white diamonds.

I'm at the new Bridal Boutique of Cartier in Sloane Street, selecting an engagement ring via their 'Set For You' service. Increasingly, the number of couples, and even brides-to-be, selecting the ring to last a lifetime is equalizing the old-fashioned gentlemen who buy the ring in anticipation of popping the question. "They're very well-researched. Often, they've been thinking about it for several months, have gauged their beloved's taste and fit, and have a specific occasion and venue in mind at which to propose at," says my consultant. I'm shown a selection of rings – from the classic 1895 solitaire to the super-bold and contemporary Love solitaire. I select the Ballerine model with a paved shoulder, before I'm guided through choices of colour (graded from D-Z: anything below H is yellow), clarity (look for internally flawless stones graded V, VSI, VS2, VVS1 or VVS2), cut (very good or excellent cuts are what you should be aiming for), size (1 carat is the most popular for engagement rings) and pricing (the sky's the limit!). Legend has it that the 'ring finger' was so chosen because it is the least-used finger or, more romantically, because of the 'vena amoris' - the vein said to run from this digit direct to the heart.

The most expensive engagement ring ever given is thought to be the $5 million 18-carat emerald-cut diamond set on a platinum split shank by Lorraine Schwartz gifted by Jay-Z to Beyonce. Five years later and the ring that sealed the king of bling's union still hasn't been topped. This is followed only by the 23-carat white diamond engagement ring given by Paris Latsis to Paris Hilton, estimated at $4.7 million. Love may not always last forever, but diamonds are eternal.

The upcoming event, the 21st edition of the show, will also incorporate luxury lifestyle, in addition to yachts and yachting. The show will be divided into six areas, with different sectors that include superyachts, but also diving professionals and marine enthusiasts. The diving area DMEX will be 30% larger than last year, and over 60 new products will be launched at the show. A Superyacht brokerage area will present five brokered superyachts.

The exhibitors will include Italian shipyard Fincantieri, who have just launched their largest ship ever, the Royal Princess. Sunseeker will be launching a new 40-metre model, in a regional debut. Larson Boats will be exhibiting its LX Series, the sports-oriented LSR series, the luxurious LXI series, and the state-of-the-art Cabrio range. Nautique will be present, fresh from having received the Manufacturer of the Year Award, and the Most Innovative Product prize for its G-series Air Nautique G23, a wake-boat. Other important names at the show include Chris Craft, Van Dutch Marine, Princess, Azimut, Benetti, Westport, Trinity Yachts and many others. There will be a good representation from Turkey. In total there will be over 450 yachts in an area of over 80,000 square metres.

The largest craft present will include a 40-metre Sanlorenzo, five Princess yachts, a 50-metre Trinity, a 40-metre Sunseeker, and a 39-metre Kaiserwerft.

The venue, the Dubai International Marine Club Mina Seyahi (DIMC), is one of the largest marinas and yacht clubs in the area, located next to Le Meridien Mina Seyahi and the Palm Jumeirah. Its hotels, restaurants and nightlife within walking distance make it the perfect location for international visitors.

For further information, see www.boatshowdubai.com
Read the Dubai city guide

Carlo Maria Ceppi, director of IWC Italy, is familiar both with high-speed cars and high-tech watches, and this year, IWC combines both worlds in the new Ingenieur collection, presented at SIHH in Geneva in a stand that looked like a Formula One paddock. The new partnership with team Mercedes AMG Petronas is like a marriage made in heaven, with new materials and design taken straight from race cars. Mercedes' quest is one for speed, cutting time; IWC aims at measuring it with ever-greater precision and beauty.

"I am very happy about the partnership. IWC has had close links to the team since 2004, and I think that our arrival in Formula One is the result of the natural development of a relationship that is beneficial for both partners."

An example of this engineering osmosis is the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month. The case is made in titanium aluminide, direct from motorsport, with pushers and other components in zirconium oxide, another Formula One material. The dial design evokes a racecar cockpit, and the rotor visible through the sapphire caseback resembles the spokes on an alloy wheel. The movement is superbly engineered, with an innovation that recalls the KERS system: the display discs for the perpetual calendar absorb some energy – particularly at the end of the year when five of them advance together – and the watch stores a tiny amount of energy every night so that it can be used at those crucial moments. The watch indicates leap years, and this means that adjustment will be needed only on 1 March 2100, when the calendar makes an exception to the leap year system, an event that occurs only once every century. (Below, the Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month).

The new collection includes many pieces, and it's hard to single out just a few. But Carlo Ceppi says, "The other new product that I believe is fundamental for us is the Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon. Another piece of supremely refined horological engineering." The tourbillon with integrated constant-force mechanism increases precision, but requires higher torque. This is provided by two barrels, which also provides the extra power for the beautiful moon phase subdial, on which you can see even the craters. The new movement has a power reserve display that indicates just how much of the massive 96-hour reserve is left. (Below, the Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon).

To mention another new reference, the Ingenieur Chronograph Racer (shown below) celebrates the partnership with Mercedes AMG Petronas. The contemporary dial design is accompanied by a superbly efficient movement, providing flyback chronograph functions with a totalizer on a single subdial, small hacking seconds, and tachymeter on the bezel. The back is engraved with a racing car. I could not help asking Carlo Ceppi about his background in motor racing and his opinion of the partnership with Mercedes AMG Petronas.

"IWC has had a close link to the racing team since 2004. For example, the Mercedes CLS 55 AMG IWC Ingenieur was a car that was personalized by IWC, and made in a limited edition of 55 units. IWC and Mercedes AMG Petronas share many values, such as the manufacturing and hand-crafted concept, the quest for new materials, new technology, and ever-better performance."
IWC's marketing policy has been in the fast lane for a number of years now, reflecting recent changes in the market and in how people think about quality watches.

"I think that we are witnessing an epochal change. Over the last few years, we have been seeing the effects of market globalization, the acceleration of digital media, and above all, the appearance of a heterogeneous market. On one hand, there is the mature clientele, the European customers, who have been familiar with top watch brands for 50 or 60 years; and on the other, there are new customers from markets who are coming into contact with this sort of product only today. For the mature markets, what was once the quest for a status symbol has become real knowledge of the field and the search for quality. New clients are thirsty for culture and want to understand the history of these prestige timepieces."

New customers also have to understand exactly why a quality mechanical watch can have an appreciable price-tag. "The greatest watch brands dedicate total attention to quality, with aspects of finish that may be invisible because they are on tiny components hidden inside the movement, made by specialist staff in Switzerland. Once you become familiar with the metiers d'art that exist within a watch, you immediately understand the price. And after all, a high-quality watch is an investment that provides satisfaction for many years. IWC products are designed to last."

The brand's retail network is also changing in order to meet the new market conditions. "IWC's international character accelerated enormously when the Richemont group purchased the brand, but its great content and values can be expressed best of all in its own-brand stores, where there is direct contact with the final customer. It is easier to develop this concept – that of flagship stores – in new markets. The challenge today is in mature markets, where there is a long tradition of multi-brand boutiques which have contributed enormously to the brand's success: the question is one of expressing the IWC values both in multi-brand boutiques and the brand's own retail structure." (Below, interior of the IWC boutique in Paris).

Does this mean that there will be some products available exclusively in IWC own-brand stores?

"This will be inevitable, because our products are very high in quality, made in low volumes, because of their high content of new materials and new technology. The pieces made in very small series will be available only in IWC stores, so that they can be presented in the best possible way to the general public, collectors and journalists."

And does this new marketing situation include e-commerce?

"Personally I think that a watch enthusiast always appreciates physical contact with the product, looks for advice from someone with advanced knowledge, and enjoys that special ritual that is the purchase of a watch in a boutique. Of course, there are exceptions, such as when a person cannot reach an official dealer, or wants to purchase a familiar best-selling product, in which cases e-commerce can be a great opportunity. Any company has to think about how its own DNA can be incorporated into such tools, which in any case have a vast potential."

It was interesting to be able to talk to Carlo Ceppi, because his long experience on the Italian watch market is unrivalled. From April 2008 he has been the Mission Delegate for Italy for FHH, Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, whose objective is to protect and promote the values of fine watchmaking.

"The Italian market has always been one of the most important in the world, and it is the top market in Europe in terms of revenue. Italian watch connoisseurs have a deep knowledge of these products. In today's economic climate, their choices change a little, in that they prefer purchasing products that transmit security, that represent a sort of oasis, a refuge in difficult times. Products that offer the highest possible value with respect to the monetary investment. For this reason, IWC has further increased quality, so that all its ranges have moved upwards, and its iconic pieces become even more coveted. This is something that is happening to all the most important marques.

"There is another side to the Italian market, the fact that the country is an important tourist destination, attracting international clients that include people from Asia, South America, Russia and other emerging markets. Their motivations for purchase are different to those of the Italian market. We therefore have to adapt so that we can provide the optimum response both to local customers who are looking for qualitative excellence, and to a new international clientele with a high purchasing power, but that needs expert advice on products because their knowledge of quality watches is not so extensive and less technical. In practical terms, in Italy this means developing our own boutiques, but also helping our dealers to work in this different context."
From his words, it is clear that IWC is already looking far into the future. What will be the greatest challenge in the coming years for the watch sector?

"The greatest challenge for us will be a closely-integrated retail network consisting of IWC stores and multibrand boutiques, as I mentioned earlier. Every day, we have to be aware that we have to change. The things that we seem to have done well today can be done better tomorrow." And that's a formidable approach to life, whether in a company, on a racetrack, or anywhere.

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Read our SIHH 2013 overview

The overriding sensation is one of optimism. At regular intervals, particularly towards the end of the week, the entire team on the stand of this or that brand would group together for a photo, accompanied by Maori-type collective shouts that evoked rubgy and tribal war-chants. They had every reason to be happy: the fine watch industry enjoyed growth of about 10% in 2012, and this follows on from 20 years of constant growth, often in double-digit figures. It is an industry whose combination of obstinately maintaining a vast tradition of hand-crafted production along with price-driven exclusivity is enabling them to reap rewards. As one commentator at the show said to me, "It's the only place where a person can go along ready to spend a mllion francs on a watch, and goes away empty-handed, invited to return a year later." There just aren't enough watches to go round, and as the developing markets produce the latest generation of new high-net-worth people, this trend is not going to change in the near future.

Which are the most promising areas? China continues to be very important for all brands, while Brazil, Mexico and Russia are all showing good results. Several brands reported that Singapore is looking very promising too.

So what about the watches? Complications and grand complications are very visible, with the high point possibly being the spectacular piece by A. Lange & Sohne, with 16 complications including a minute repeater. With just six pieces available, the watch wasn't actually visible, just a giant model. Those in the know said that all six in the series had been sold by the end of the first day of the show, plus another four. The brand makes just one per year. Minute repeaters were very much in view, with some fine watches by several brands, including a superb model by Piaget.

Another theme is theatricality. You don't necessarily buy a watch of this type to tell the time. To do that, you have your smartphone. Quality watches are iincreasingly becoming miniature performances worn on the wrist. For Van Cleef & Arpels, time becomes poetry, with their signature piece this year being the Enchanted Ballerina, in which a double-retrograde movement powers the butterfly wings over the dancer's tutu. When you push the button, the butterfly wings rise in sequence to show the hours on one side, the minutes on the other.

Greubel & Forsey presented their "Art Piece 1," a watch that includes a micro-sculpture by artist Wigan, visible through a magnifying glass incorporated into the crown. It's difficult to express in words, but when you see this miniature world brought to life by the powerful lens, you get a powerful feeling of the magic that is always a part of the fine watch industry. There are no hands; the time can be displayed by pressing a button, with hours and minutes shown on the two sides of a small arc-shaped window. This watch, retailing at about a million euro, is a limited edition of one, though it would be more accurate to say that each one is a one-off work of art.

Other features of theatricality include the tourbillon, which remains a favourite for providing visual interest. The tourbillon becomes the mysterious beating heart of the watch, forever revolving in a movement that evokes the orbits of planets and stars. From a purely visual viewpoint, the three-dimensionality of movements is enhanced by the use of transparent sapphire bridges, stepped bridges, and skeletonization, so that you can glimpse parts of the movement below the dial.

Transparency is increasingly present in another way. Van Cleef & Arpels is now introducing some of its craft techniques, that were once close to being industry secrets, to all those interested in learning about their exquisite watches, with their Ecole, which from its base in Paris, will tour the world. The idea is simple: if a prospective client understands the vast amount of crafts skill that goes into a watch, the purchase will have greater meaning.

Another important theme goes in the same direction: accessibility. While prices at the top end of haut horlogerie continue to rise, some brands make superb watches at very accessible prices. Probably the most striking example is Montblanc, with the Star collection: a piece with multiple functions, with all the canons of quality and finish, retailing at just €3,850, is an invitation to the younger end of the population to begin their adventure in mechanical watches.

Watchmaking is by now a mature industry, and sustainability has become a keynote for many brands. I'm thinking of their commitment to supporting crafts that would otherwise risk disappearing, such as enamelling and the most refined features of gold-working, notably by Van Cleef & Arpels and Vacheron & Constantin, but more in general by all top brands. Audemars Piguet is deeply committed to the protection of the environment at Le Brassus, their home town, but also the forests of the world. Montblanc supports young artists with a programme that gives them global visibility by means of boutique displays.

Ambassadors are changing. Previously, they were mostly famous figures who lent their faces (and wrists) in photos with watches. Now, they do the same, but they often love fine timepieces (for example, Michael Schumacher for Audemars Piguet), and contribute to their own special editions. This trend can be seen in the collaboration between car brands and watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre, which celebrates its 180th anniversary this year, will be launching an important project with Aston Martin. IWC's stand was themed around its work with the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One racing team, with mechanics on hand explaining the cutting-edge materials that have been incorporated into the latest Ingenieur watches by IWC. Parmigiani Fleurier's highlighted products included the remarkable Bugatti watch, named after the supercar.

Then, women. Women are becoming more interested in mechanical watches, and they are increasingly wearing men's watches. This is something that makes all brands happy (as long as they buy their own and don't borrow their partners' watches!) It may also be the reason why the very large watches – 47 millimetres or more – seen in recent years have mostly been supplanted by a more wearable 42 millimetres.

Lastly, philosophy. This is a word that may seem a million miles from luxury watches, but in actual fact, several watchmakers are driven by philosophical considerations for their designs and mechanisms. The watch becomes a microcosm of the universe, the wheels mirroring the mysterious motions of the planets and the stars. Michel Parmigiani explained how the design of his watches incorporates the Fibonacci sequence and the Golden Mean in order to attain true, lasting beauty (shown in the photo below during our interview. Photo courtesy of Parmigiani Fleurier/Maryline De Cesare).

To sum up, these are truly exciting times for watchmaking. SIHH is limited to 16 brands, but other watchmakers exhibited during the same period in other locations in Geneva – notably Breguet at Cité du Temps, Cristophe Claret at the Four Seasons des Bergues, and many others at the Geneva Time Exhibition at the Batiment des Forces Motrices. The next big event for watches, Baselworld in late April, looks set to providing yet more excitement.

The idea is nifty as it is unique: customers can visit the LUXUP site, which is updated daily with premiere products and shopping experiences, before they travel to London, New York, Hong Kong or Macau, make their purchases online in advance and then pick up their luxury products once they get to their destination.

The selection of brands singled out by the LUXUP team is absolutely top drawer and includes such celebrated names as Loewe, Valentino, Lanvin, Dunhill, Liberty, Marni, Belstaff and Balenciaga to mention just a few. But LUXUP is not merely another luxury site – in addition to the novel 'buy online, collect in store' concept, the items selected for the site’s members include truly rare items such as one-of-a-kind, exquisite Paul Morelli diamond earrings, a handmade Dunhill travel clock with a mother-of-pearl inlay or they can own one of only 11 Roland Mouret dresses available worldwide designed exclusively for LUXUP. Additionally, these limited edition items are time sensitive, and purchases have to be made within a deadline making them all the more special. Yet another exciting LUXUP idea is the VIP Shopping Pass, which gives their members the opportunity to be chauffeur-driven to and from their boutiques of choice where they will be attended to by a personal stylist for exceptional tailored service.

In 2013 LUXUP plans to launch sites in Russian as well as in Arabic, with a plan to be present in the world’s top ten destinations in the not too distant future, for the delight of global luxury travellers.

Celebrations began on 15 January 2013, exactly a century after the foundation of Bamford and Martin (the company was renamed Aston Martin in 1925) at Henniker Mews in London. A specially-commissioned plaque was unveiled to mark the centenary. Other events include the 'Best of British On Tour' drive, from 15 to 21 July, reaching London, and another (21-27 July) in Scotland, Skyfall country, another expression of British soft power!

Today, 17 January 2013, the Aston Martin Vanquish was the first car to be placed on the helipad, 300 metres above the ground.
Limited-edition Aston Martin cars will be available world-wide for the centenary. 100 units of the V8 Vantage, the DB9, the Rapide and the Vanquish will be built with a graduated paint finish, solid sterling silver Aston Martin wings badges with trans flux enamel inlay, and a special Aston Martin hallmark. According to history, these cars stand a good chance of surviving for another century, because of the 60,000 cars manufactured over the last 100 years, over 90% are still in existence.

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Aston Martin One-77
Bugatti Veyron Grand Sport Vitesse

Matteo, in what way does the menu at Al V Piano reflect your Italian origins?
My cuisine is a form of fusion. I create my own version of Italian cuisine by combining the techniques that I inherited from my grandmother with others that I have seen on my travels around the world, above all in France, the UK and Spain.

Do you subscribe to the zero food miles approach to raw materials?
No! I am a chef that goes against the grain. Today, we have access to foodstuffs from all over the globe. Every country has its specialities. It's fantastic to be able to use the finest products from a whole range of countries. I am a 100% global chef! If a painter can have 100 colours on his palette, why should he restrict his colours to just two or three?

What is your approach to food-wine pairing?
Alberto: Matteo's recipes already have everything that makes a complete culinary experience. All that I have to do is to select the wine that accompanies it best. There is no single wine that can accompany the five or six dishes that take you from hors d'oeuvres to dessert. Our solution is to provide diners with the possibility of accompanying each course with a glass, rather than a bottle. Be ready for a wealth of taste sensations!

Here is one of Matteo's recipes:
Simulated fennel and sambuca risotto

Ingredients for 4:
- 4 fennels
- 1 lemon
- 100 g mascarpone
- 100 g caprino goat's cheese
- 50 g butter
- 50 g Parmesan cheese
- 200 mg sambuca
- 4 g soy lecithin
- 50 g extra virgin olive oil

Wash the fennel. Cut two into cubes about half a centimetre wide, and cut the other two into thin slices that will be used as garnish. Fry the fennel cubes in olive oil for about 4 minutes, then add the mascarpone and caprino goat's cheese along with half a glass of water, and continue to mix on the heat as if it were a risotto, until the mixture has become uniformly creamy. Remove from the heat, add the zest of a lemon, the butter and Parmesan, and season with salt and pepper. Arrange on the plate with the slices of fennel, and sambuca foam whipped with soy lecithin.

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The Concept Collection was inspired by Easy Virtue, a film set in the British countryside during the 1930s. The colour themes presented three principal tones: dark brown, in a variety of shades reaching light beige; Naples blue, in combinations with violet and mud; and anthracite grey, often used in contrast with wine (a sort of reddish violet), and in a range of lighter grey tones.

As is habitual for Pal Zileri, all the looks showed a meticulous attention to materials, with all workmanship strictly 100% Italian. Garments are crafted using Pal Zileri's exclusive textiles made in Biella, processed using advanced and sophisticated techniques that help make the clothing absolutely unique in its field.

The same guidelines led to a cooperation with the historic Italian woolmakers Fratelli Tallia di Delfino, founded in the early 20th century and with a heritage of success behind it.

The partnership led to the development of the 'Viaggiatore' capsule collection. This translates as 'Traveller,' and it was designed specifically for contemporary men, who are by necessity dynamic globetrotters for whom travel cannot be an excuse to abandon quality garments. On the contrary, this range of clothes ideal for travellers becomes an ambassador for Italian quality garments, made from a yarn with a range of useful characteristics. 'Super 130' is in fact a natural stretch yarn, and the textiles made from it are non-crease, water-resistant and anti-bacterial. In other words, it doesn't crease in your suitcase, fit is always perfect, and it doesn't accumulate any unwanted odour.

Pal Zileri's collection is subdivided into its different lines, amongst which the Concept Collection looks back to the sublime elegance of the 1930s as mentioned above. Linea Lab on the other hand is designed for younger Pal Zileri customers, who nonetheless appreciate fine tailoring and quality materials.

Linea Lab presents three main themes, the Forever Black line with predominantly dark tones relieved by touches of light and almost imperceptible shades of wine; the Blue's Philosophy line, with shades of navy blue in combination with anthracite grey and wine: these garments include stretch fabrics, with meticulous detailing, such as fur linings and camouflage-type colour variations; lastly the Underwood line comprises a range of treatments, shades and combinations, with a powerfully rock feel. We particularly liked the garments in leather together with other materials such as wool, fur and waterproof fabric.

The collection expresses Yvan Benbanaste's commitment, unmistakable taste and love for quality. Pal Zileri's fashion coordinator has created a sophisticated collection that is also innovative and exciting. Ideal for all those who look to the future with optimism, and like the idea of expressing their optimism by means of their style.

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Bally fall/winter 2013-2014 men's collection

All in all, the range for fall/winter 2013-2014 is very rock and roll, and some of the Alberto Guardiani classics are confirmed, such as the Aldo shoes with small studs creating patterns over the uppers in models reminiscent of the Chelsea boot and the Oxford lace-up. Materials are pure luxe, such as suede-textured camel leather, horse leather, hi-tech and patent leathers, with velvet detailing.

The Linea Sport features another innovative model, the Tudor Dress shoe. This is a combination of the sporty sole from the Tudor sneakers and glossy, lace-up uppers with a more formal appearance. The resulting shoes have the same streetwise cool that is a hallmark of all Alberto Guardiani's footwear, but in this case they are ideal for a trip into the countryside that could develop into a society aperitifs party.

Zac is a new sneaker in which the soles feature decorative motifs recalling the passage of time, with images of watches. The uppers are in stone-washed lamb.

At the presentation, there was space for the favourite women's models, and we couldn't resist taking a few photos of the iconic Lipstick heels, admiring the lusciously excessive designs. The furry shoe is a masterpiece of tonge-in-cheek kitsch. Also on show were the Flutterby shoes which won the Cinderthriller competition launched to find the new it-shoe. Alberto Guardiani has an unerring talent for creating it-shoes! (Below, Flutterby; further down, a furry version of Lipstick).

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Bally fall/winter 2013-2014 men's collection
Search for Alberto Guardiani boutiques

The collection by Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz had a lot more. Many of the pieces in the Everest collection were underscored by a mountaineering theme, with a recurrent yellow colour recalling that of the storm cotton in equipment used by the Everest mountaineers. Coats in the collection feature suede, cashmere and leather, all made to be inherently warm, practical and light. Details are referenced from the Everest archive boots; hoods are in detachable marmot. Perhaps the most important pieces are the boots, large and light pieces with the characteristic tread, and with double-stitch Norwegian construction that means that you can stand ankle-deep in snow or even water and still stay dry. Accessories include backpacks and weekend bags whose rugged construction makes them supremely practical and durable.

Another interesting new feature is the Injection Moulded Lug Sole shoe. At first sight, these look like classic brogues, ideal for the city. But you just have to turn them over, and you find a rubber sold with the patented Bally tread with which you could climb a snowy slope without slipping. The finish of Bally’s shoes is superb, with every pair hand-coloured. After construction has been completed, each pair is stained, left to dry, and then stained again, until the desired colour has been achieved. This means that subtle gradations of tone, in the shades brown, red and petrol blue, can be achieved.

The Cervo collection presents a new series of bomber jackets, shoes and bags. Light, classic and practical, they are made in deer skin, supremely durable. The collection has references to the Alpine landscape in its colours: loden, dark flint, bark, night sky.

Today, for many people, dreams of the mountains often end once the weekend in Switzerland is over and it’s back to the boardroom in Milan. The Milano Business Collection comprises new innovative colours applied to iPad and iPhone cases, briefcases, and an original men’s business clutch, with two zips and lots of room for a tablet, credit cards and so forth. The iPad case in particular has been carefully engineered, in order to hold the detachable keyboard often used with an iPad.

The Bally Stripe capsule collection features the classic Bally red and white stripe, used in a series of deconstructed casual bags, comprising a tote, a weekender and a computer bag. They have been designed to minimize themes, while colour is based on chestnut leather.

Altogether, a powerful and effective presentation, based on real content and a remarkable heritage. The Everest boots will hit the stores in June, in time for the anniversary of that memorable day on 29 May, 1953. Hillary was from New Zealand, Tenzing Norgay was from Nepal; Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz are British, like expedition leader John Hunt. Another example of soft power: this time not just British, but Swiss as well.

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Bally, meet the Scribe

This is made possible because the shoe is tinted after the construction has been completed. The colours of the shoes are often two-tone, with dark navy, dark green and dark bordeaux along with the various shades of tinted leather. In some pieces, the leather is combined with metallization to create a glinting, subtly variable effect. Other prestige materials include Cordovan leather, shell crocodile, and deer.

From the shoes, Kibardin has crafted a capsule collection in leather, a series of coats in which designs are based on archetypal forms, such as 1960s-style jackets, aviator overalls, aviator jackets, trench coats, bomber jackets and biker jackets, in colours including bordeaux, navy blue, moss green, beige, raw siena and grey. But finish is extraordinarily refined, with metallized leather given a saffian finish that has an incredible effect under light. Not only does the material glint and flash, but it seems almost to glow, as if lit from inside.

The ultramarine blue overalls are probably the most extreme garment in the collection, a reference to surreal science-fiction films. According to the style notes, the inspiration includes Tony Scott’s film The Hunger starring David Bowie: while I’m OK with Bowie, I would put it closer to Major Tom and the Man Who Fell to Earth.

Accessories include a superb hand-crafted rigid briefcase in crocodile, meticulously constructed and reinforced, and a large Boston bag. The collection was presented in a classical setting, the frescoed halls of the Grand Hotel et de Milan, which further heightened the out-of-this-world effect of Kibardin’s work.

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Ports 1961 fall/winter 2013-2013 collection

It’s as if Hylton is saying, we can all be heroes. You just need that little touch of courage, enough to transform an ordinary man into something else, like Clark Kent and Superman. At least, that’s what the glasses were saying, heavy acetate-rimmed glasses that spoke of ordinary men ready to become something else.

The colours are grey and black, with accents in light bordeaux, light blue, and light green. Overcoats and bomber jackets are cadenced into squares and rectangles reminiscent of armour or a spacesuit, creating a contrast with the softness of the fabric. Tailoring is tight and taut, very male, for men who know where they are going, and who are capable of an occasional foray into decorative luxury, as in a fur lapel on a grey overcoat. The sculptured lines are contrasted with the voluptuously bright colour. The overall impression is that of people who are about to set off on a journey, as shown by the large, practical bag. Hylton himself said, “Ports customers travel a lot, and they know the world. Our man is fashionable. The Ports 1961 collection was designed for the executive, the athlete, the traveller in every man. A Ports man is self-assured and wants to look his best. He wants quality first of all.”

All the classic garment types are reworked in the collection by Hylton and Cibani: trench coats, Chesterfields, Harringtons and duffle coats are given sophisticated details and quality materials. Shoes are tough and chunky, with mocassins featuring five-layer soles and oversize kilt fringes on the uppers.

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Pitti Uomo 2013
Ermanno Scervino fall/winter 2013-2013 men's collection

It’s all about tailorship. Ermanno Scervino used a light hand in sculpting the volumes of this collection, and the colours are equally restrained, based on grey, or rather, on two or three different greys in each look. This tonal contrast highlights the quality of the textiles used for the jackets and coats, with a lot of very soft leather and suede. Highlight colours are khaki, which is used in a lacquered finish for trousers, bordeaux, and blue.

The restraint creates something of an early 1960s mod look, as borrowed by the Beatles at the start of their career. Narrow lapels, straight ties cut horizontally at the bottom, figure-hugging styles. Throughout, there is a wonderful contrast between formal and casual, as in evening jackets worn with knitwear ties, and heavy, chunky knitwear cardigans worn as a jacket over a bordeaux knitwear waistcoat and a knitwear tie. Scervino has given particular importance to knitwear, in part because it is handmade in the brand’s own production units in Florence, using finest-quality yarns (including cashmere) at very high levels of finish. His tribute to his city of origin takes the form of its emblem, the lily, in the form of an embroidered motif on a knitwear top, and on details such as cufflinks.

Another surprising visual highlight include red and white stripes producing a college look in some knitwear.

Some elements are pure luxe, such as the orylag scarves, incomparably soft and fluffy. There is more softness in the leather garments, with double-layer pile linings for extra warmth, and, in the same way, knitwear cardigans with a down padded lining. Scervino continues his incessant exploration of materials with Casentino wool, a sort of felted textile with a slightly rough texture, providing excellent water-resistant characteristics, while also offering a pleasant visual effect.

Shoes are tough and practical. Bags are soft and a tad androgynous.

All absolutely wearable. Scervino’s perfect touch has created a collection that cannot fail to appeal. My personal favourite is the super-chunky cardigan in horizontal bands of black and white herringbone. As the model walks down the catwalk, the material creates a sort of op-art effect, with the black outline at the hems and collar providing a cartoony touch. Brilliant.

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Pitti Uomo 2013

Pitti Uomo has progressively carved out its own niche in the fashion arena as a showcase for new emerging brands, which gives it particular value as a lighthouse for new trends. The fall/winter 2013-14 men's collections are highlighted above all by intense work on materials: new takes on old textiles, and new high-tech fabrics that provide fresh opportunities for style and colour. Another trend that emerged is the return of the sweatshirt as a garment that can provide an alternative to sweaters, not only for sportswear and casual outfits, but in smarter and more fashionable looks as well.

Some of the more interesting trends at Pitti include Hardy Amies, who is classical British, but with refreshing takes on colour and on the classic check tailoring, and on the chunky footwear.

Allegri chose Pitti Uomo to kickstart the relaunch of the brand, with the tagline 'The architects of fabrics.' The most significant part of the presentation consists of rainwear.

The same is true of Alviero Martini, whose rainwear is reminiscent of the great explorers and globetrotters.

Brunello Cucinelli is very classical, with the main trend for the fall/winter 2013-14 season being layering: pinstripe suite over shirt and waistcoat, and a padded parka with removable lining. Versatility is the key.

Lardini presents new fabric patterns, and new bright colours such as yellow ochre, brick red, bottle green and turquoise, in garments that express both classical tailoring and a streetwise contemporary look. Lardini also presented a new brand, Gabriele Pasini, dedicated to menswear and accessories, in cooperation with the like-named designer who utilizes features from the Neapolitan tailoring tradition.

Roy Roger's jackets are soft and casual, with lovely earthy colours evocative of the reddish soil of Tuscany.

Japanese brand Noriei makes beautifully-crafted footwear, such as styles that combine a classical shoe with army boots, ideal for stepping out for work in rain and snow, or just for stepping out feeling cool with rolled-up trouser bottoms.

A lot of the looks at the show were about new takes on traditional elements. The Haversack man is an Edwardian plus-foured Sopwith Camel pilot who has wormholed his way to the present, with clothing given a molecular rearrangement, with new colours for the mittens and flying overalls.

Tibi Tie has shifted the bow tie away from the collar and towards a brooch, so that it can be pinned to hats, suits or scarves.

Another style trend at the show is personalization. Masaki Kyoko Homme features creations by textile designer Masaki, whose sweaters and coats are hand-knitted, each unique. Another Japanese brand, Kyuten, makes quality denim, with tears, distressed treatments and fur inserts making each piece individual.

In conclusion, Pitti Uomo 2013 was an event that whets the appetite for the next appointments on the fashion calendar: Milan Fashion Week, from 12 to 15 January 2013. Watch this space!

For example, last year Burberry launched the Britain, a series of watches that includes the Power Reserve Automatic, a Swiss-made mechanical watch with a Soprod 9040 self-winding movement. It has a power reserve metre just above 6 o'clock, the date in a window at 3 o'clock, a 40-hour power reserve, and a curved transparent caseback in sapphire crystal that reveals the rotor with Geneva stripe decoration. The alligator strap in a dark beige colour provides a link to the Burberry trench coat tradition, along with details of the case and lugs. It retails at about €3,000.

The Soprod 9040 is an interesting movement, that can also be seen in watches such as the Baume & Mercier 8869 (which has, in addition, a window on the front of the dial revealing part of the movement), which retails at about €3,600.

Dolce & Gabbana have bridged the gap from their previous ranges of quartz watches (D&G Time) to Swiss-made mechanical watches, such as their DS5. This possibly reflects Domenico Dolce's and Stefano Gabbana's own personal interest in watches, as they designed the visuals of the watch, building it around the ETA Valjoux 7750 movement, which provides chronograph function with central chronograph seconds, small seconds, day and date. Prices for the DS5 start at about €3,890.

Unlike the Soprod 9040 which is not found in many watches, the ETA Valjoux 7750 is a popular movement for entry-level chronographs, by brands such as Hamilton, Breitling and Tag Heuer. For example, the Breitling Superocean Chronograph II fits a modified ETA 7750 (they call it the Breitling 13 movement), and it retails at €4,960 (prices vary according to the version).

Alfred Dunhill's watches feature Jaeger-LeCoultre movements. The Classic PVD Moonphase watch is a striking design, with small seconds on the moonphase dial at 6 o'clock, day of the week and month in windows at 9 and 3 o'clock respectively, and date shown by a central hand with date numbers on the bezel. The stainless steel case has a black PVD coating, which blends perfectly with the black diamond-guilloché dial and black calf strap. The movement is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 924, with a 43-hour power reserve. It retails at about €5,600.

You can find the same movement in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Calendar, a beautiful watch with a very different appearance, retailing at about €7,800.

Ralph Lauren's watches are also high-quality products with Jaeger-LeCoultre movements. For example, the Sporting World Time will be presented in a new stainless steel version at SIHH 2013 in Geneva. It has a second crown at 10 o'clock which controls the second time zone, with time in this second zone on a subdial at 6 o'clock, the corresponding city shown on a disc just below the subdial, and date on a subdial near 3 o'clock. Power reserve near the 9 o'clock position gives the dial a fine overall balance. The movement is based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre JL 939 calibre, used in the brand's Master Geographic.

There are at least two examples of brands who have diversified into watches by purchasing or incorporating existing watch brands, such as Bulgari with Geral Genta and Daniel Roth, and Montblanc with Minerva. Both these experiences have produced some superb timepieces. Shown below, rear of the Daniel Roth Carillon Tourbillon by Bulgari.

From the point of view of critics and consumers, this trend towards quality mechanical watches on the part of luxury fashion brands can only be positive, introducing more people to the fascinating world of haute horlogerie. I think that, in some cases, brands have to work on the quality of their sales and after-sales services. Sales staff accustomed to selling garments don't have the same expertise as the assistants in a watch brand's store. But I'm sure that this will change very soon.

Read more:

The Burberry Britain
Watches by Dolce & Gabbana
Mechanical watches by Bulgari

Robert Wan is renowned for its market of Tahitian pearls. What is the story behind such pearls?

In 1973, Robert Wan saw the cultured pearl as the start of a fantastic adventure. It was at that time that he had decided to follow his desire to return to his homeland of French Polynesia. There he was immediately taken with the wealth of the area’s lagoons. Undoubtedly more than anyone before him, he saw ‘perliculture,’ or the art of Tahitian pearl culture, as a way of advancing French Polynesia and its treasures.
At the time, the government of French Polynesia had decided to invest in the cultured pearl. As a result, many entrepreneurs and scientists came to the island to try to develop the Tahitian cultured pearl. Starting from scratch, Robert Wan made it his mission to make the Tahitian cultured pearl the star of deluxe jewelry, or Haute Joaillerie. He nevertheless realized that the atolls, otherwise known as coral reefs, represented tremendous potential. Armed with advice from top experts, he began one of the pioneers of pearl production. Yet faced with illnesses and other difficult circumstances, it took years before the business became profitable. However, by the end of the 1970s, his artisan production became an organized Tahitian cultured pearl farm. Wan provided the necessary means of success by surrounding himself with the best scientists, grafters and specialists. But ultimately, it was his determination that contributed to the rise of Tahitian cultured pearl exports as the second biggest economic resource from French Polynesia.

What are the specific characteristics of the Tahitian pearl?

Tahitian cultured pearls are dark South Sea pearls and come mainly from farms in French Polynesia. They grow in the Cumingii species of the black-lipped Pinctada margaritifera oyster. Tahitian pearls display an exciting range of colors from dark grey to anthracite, green and aubergine. The metallic shine and changing shades of the Tahitian pearl are particularly characteristic. From mother-of-pearl to the cultured pearl, from Haute Joaillerie to science, Wan’s talents and interests are extensive. After 30 years, he believes more than ever in the development of the little ‘Poe Rava’, which in Tahitian means ‘the black pearl with the green reflections.’

How do you source the Tahitian pearls and how do you hope to market them in the Gulf?

We are the largest producer of Pearls in Tahiti producing across the strand of islands owned by Robert Wan. As such we are in full control of our supply chain since the inception of the market. Now internationally renowned, our pearls have found themselves adorned by some of the world’s most beautiful and powerful women. We have 10 stores worldwide in addition to distribution by our partners in the Middle East including Levant, Al Fardan and Damas.Now that the brand has been situated within the UAE for several years, how if at all, has Robert Wan been influenced by the rich history of pearl trading in the UAE?We have been influenced to the point that we are now investing in the revival of the region’s pearl heritage. The culture inspires not only our designs but our passion for creating Middle Eastern-born pearls.

Why did you decide to open up Robert Wan in Dubai specifically?

Dubai is the undisputed gateway to the Middle East with its ever-growing financial and commercial infrastructure. From this base we are perfectly positioned to grow organically within the wider Middle-East.

How do you find the UAE pearl industry today? What is missing?

The United Arab Emirates has a long history of pearl trading, but sadly lost its luster with the advent of the oil sector over the last thirty years. It is now missing structure and budget support from central institutions. We hope to see a strong drive to push the industry forward by all players over the next three years. It is nevertheless an exciting market with a lot of room for growth which allows us to play a significant role in shaping the UAE pearl industry going forward.

Jimmy Choo's many colourful models for spring/summer 2013 include these tutti-frutti styles, Clue, and (below) Raven, in coarse glitter fabric on a gold base.

René Caovilla's collection includes Maui (below), replete in crystal that catches and reflects the colours and light from wherever you are.

In Roberto Cavalli's collection, the multi-colour sheen is created by reptilian scales, a perfect match for the animalier garments.

Sergio Rossi uses crystal in 'Flashy Swarovski,' a perfect description for this colourful style.

Tory Burch combines metallic looks with ethnic-style materials in her spring/summer 2013 collection. Below, Careen, a high-heeled loafer.

Dolce & Gabbana return to their origins with supremely colourful shoes and a bag featuring the sort of decoration used for Sicilian carts.

Kenzo add lots of bright colours to their shoes: green-black and yellow, and (below), orange, hay and black.

Salvatore Ferragamo's wedges have a bit of everything in their patchwork of coloured suede.

Stella McCartney's styles for spring/summer 2013 curiously include designs rather similar to Hugo Boss and Jimmy Choo, with iridescent and multi-bead versions of her accessories.

Vivienne Westwood definitely lives in colour, and these mother-of-pearl-sheen shoes from the Red Label ready-to-wear collection for spring/summer 2013 are no exception.

I'm certainly looking forward to seeing all that colour and dazzle on the streets!

Read more:

Sergio Rossi brand history

A Leather iPad Case
Don’t travel without a good protective skin for your iPad. Bottega Veneta’s Appia Intrecciato Nappa iPad case features snap button closure and a line interior to protect your iPad from lots of shuffling around and potential dropping. And even when you’re not on the road, use the case to carry your iPad around in style.

Evian’s Facial Spray
Sitting on a plane for long hours causes the skin to become rough, dry, cracked and damaged. Make sure you carry a good facial spray to keep yourself continually hydrated. The unique mineral balance and neutral pH makes Evian’s Facial Spray the perfect source for thirty skin. Choose from four different sizes depending on the length of your journey.

Leica Digital Camera
Considered by many to be the best camera that money can buy, the Leica camera is renowned for its high-quality glass lenses which provide nice and crystal clear photographs. Whether or not you are an experienced photographer, there’s a good chance you may be after you purchase a Leica.

Louis Vuitton Case with Mirror
This stunning monogram canvas case can be used to hold a variety objects while you’re on the go such as jewellery, make-up and other travel-essentials. The item features a mirror situated on the cover as well as a washable interior, S-lock with a key, reinforced metal corners, studded leather trim and a removable natural cowhide identification holder.

A Neck Rest Pillow
For those of you with non-stop flights for a reach of several hours at a time, trying to the find the perfect sleeping position is a challenge. We’ve all been there and experience how hard it is to snooze while you’re in the air. So, a good neck rest pillow is your answer. Sit in any position you want without straining your neck and finally get the sleep you’ve been striving for.

Technically, cufflinks can be described according to their system of closure, such as bullet-back, the most common and easiest to slide into the holes; whale-back, in which the pivoted part has the form of a flat tail; fixed backings, in which the front, post and backing are all in one piece; the chain link system, in which the front and back are linked by a chain; and the ball return, in which the backing consists of a ball of metal, connected to the front by a curved post. Reversible cufflinks have motifs both on front and backing, so that they can be worn either way around.

Many design and fashion houses create their own versions of this classic accessory.

1. Montblanc's Fine Jewelry cufflinks (€1,545) are in warm red gold, with ebony, creating a timeless and supremely elegant piece, with the Montblanc emblem at the centre.

The same brand also make their Contemporary Collection cufflinks (below, €370), which have a platinum finish with guilloché black resin inlay, highlighting the Montblanc emblem. A perfect match for a Montblanc pen (such as the Doué series, part of the Montblanc StarWalker collection), or a TimeWalker watch.

2. The Harry Winston Men by Thom Browne Diamond Button cufflinks are supremely witty, with the stitch motif in the centre downplaying the exquisite beauty of these pieces. They have a total of 220 round brilliant diamonds, about 1.37 carats, in an 18-carat white gold setting. €25,000.

3. Links of London make these 18-carat yellow gold classic oval T-bar cufflinks, all about understatement. The oval front is ideal for engraving, the perfect method for a personalized product. €1,900.

4. The Elsa Peretti Cabochon cufflinks by Tiffany & Co are in 18-carat gold with lapislazuli, made to an original design by Elsa Peretti, the Florentine jewellery designer who moved to New York in 1968. €1,850

5. Cartier's range of cufflinks caters for all tastes, from rigorously minimalist designs to sparkling, decorative, figurative motifs that of course include the panther. These Panthère de Cartier cufflinks are in 18-carat yellow gold, with diamond pavé, emerald eyes and onyx nose. €22,400

6. De Beers has a small range of cufflinks. The pieces shown below, gold knot cufflinks, are in 18-carat gold, pavé-set with 110 round brilliant diamonds, for a total carat weight of 0.96. Each cufflink is 13 millimetres in height, making it without doubt a statement piece. €5,350.

7. Gucci's horsebit cufflinks are in 925 silver with platinum, finished in burnished palladium, with 64 black diamonds for a total carat weight of 0.70. €1,750

8. Alfred Dunhill create an impressive range of cufflinks, amongst which these Turbine cufflinks with carbon fibre (€275). They have an engineered look created by the screw-head motifs and the turbine rotor, inspired by a Spitfire engine.

9. Bottega Veneta's cufflinks feature the intrecciato pattern that hallmarks so many of their products. In oxidized silver, they have a vintage look that make them particularly classy, while the design is a neat paraphrase of a shirt cuff.

10. Burberry have an extensive collection of cufflinks, including this square-design version with a central stone detail framed by brass. €235.

Bonus selections. Here are some other products that we really love!

11. Henry Arlington, Lloyd Gold and Silver cufflinks. Original shape, with diablo-shaped barrel with five indented ribbon stripes. The oval backing is subtly engraved with the Henry Arlington initials. €67 approx.

12. Thomas Pink has presented these Snake cufflinks, ideal for the Year of the Snake which begins in February 2013. €135 approx.

13. Fabergé Stanislav cufflinks inherit the remarkable story of Peter Carl Fabergé, goldsmith to the Russian Imperial Court, with their Belle Epoque opulence. The Stanislav design shown below has champagne and white round diamonds set in 18-carat rose gold. €11,809.

Also by Fabergé are these lovely Fjodor cufflinks (below), also with champagne and white round diamonds set in 18-carat rose gold. €10,280.

14. Paul Smith designs with delicious touches of irony, and his cufflinks are no exceptions. The spring/summer 2013 collection includes these Match Stick cufflinks (€125).

15. Alexander McQueen's gold coin cufflinks (€180) are in gold-finish brass, with the classic McQueen skull motif that is visible at a second glance.

16. Paris brand Zilli make these very stylish cufflinks, part of the 2013 collection.

Read more:
Men - top ten accessories for getting noticed by women
Wolf cufflinks by Powder Hill
Nardelli Gioielli Cufflinks
Wolf London cufflinks for women

The chapter on the Calibre 2320 movement, one of the finest chronograph movements in the world, is fascinating, and provides a good introduction to column wheel chronographs, with some helpful tips. "To judge a fine chronograph, examine not only its operation, but also the feel of the pushers."

Leonardo da Vinci also makes an appearance, with an article on the presentation of 'Salvator Mundi,' a long-lost painting by the Florentine master. This painting was sold at auction in 1958 for £45 – at that time, its attribution was uncertain. It is now valued at £120 million. The restoration and critical reassessment make a remarkable story. The connection with Breguet is that the company sponsored a series of broadcasts by CNN titled 'Leonardo ¬– the Lost Painting.' The maison, of course, feels at home with genius, considering the rich legacy left behind by Abraham-Louis Breguet.

Follow this link to download the app.

Read more:
Breguet and the Marie-Antoinette watch
Breguet and the Reine de Naples jewellery collection
Breguet - Héritage Phases de Lune Rétrograde wins a 'Watch of the Year' prize

1. Fireworks.

A real New Year’s Eve classic, with many cities vying for top place. Last year, about 250,000 people saw the fireworks staged around the London Eye, following the chimes of Big Ben (the first of the twelve chimes marks midnight). Sydney is the first city to celebrate the New Year and it has become famous for its fireworks display (Observatory Hill offers a raised viewpoint). In Hong Kong, the reflections of Victoria Harbour provide a superb setting for a display that last year cost $1 million. In Dubai, Burj Khalifa represents a gigantic launching site for the fireworks. In Rio de Janeiro, fireworks combine with a gigantic beach party on Copacabana. In Geneva, you can opt for a celebration on a boat, providing the perfect viewpoint for the 15-minute fireworks display while you sip champagne.

2. Theatre and music.

A lot of cities have classical music traditions to mark the New Year, such as Milan with Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony (Orchestra Verdi, Auditorium di Milano). Often these are relatively early in the evening so you have time to head off to celebrations elsewhere. In London, the performance Stomp (Ambassadors Theatre) is suitably noisy. In Vienna, the State Opera stages Die Fledermaus by Johann Strauss, and the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra’s concert is on the 1st January. You can see it on a big screen in front of City Hall. In Salzburg, Austria, you can brush up youur waltzing skills from 5.00 p.m. on the 31st December, so that you’re ready for the Midnight Waltz amidst sounds of Mozart and Strauss. On New Year’s Day, you can take part in what the city calls ‘Europe’s biggest Hangover Breakfast’ with yet more concerts by the SalzburgLand Big Band and the New Year’s Concert by the Austrian Festival Symphony Orchestra.

3. Outdoor parties.

Feel part of the great family of mankind and celebrate with your friends and people you’ve just met. Dress up warm, bring the bubbles and glasses, and head for the centre of the party: Brandenburg Gate in Berlin, Trafalgar Square in London, Champs-Elysées in Paris, Old Town Square in Prague, and so forth.

4. Trains, trams, transport.

Spending New Year’s Eve on a train has a sort of romantic appeal. The Napa Valley Wine Train (California) provides hors d’oeuvres in the station, an antique train ride, a gourmet meal, drinks, bubbles and entertainment. In Milan, the Atmosfera tram offers a period-style setting for a menu prepared by international chefs. In Istanbul, spend the evening on a cruise boat on the Bosphorus, with fireworks under Bosphorus Bridge, dinner, drinks, belly dancing.

5. Champagne cocktails.

If it’s going to be a get-together at home with friends, you can give the bubbles a bit more colour with some added ingredients. The Sparkler: Tequila, a dash of syrup (one part water, one part sugar), and champagne, garnished with a strawberry slice which adds an attractive pink tinge. The Lanesborough: equal parts of Gran Marnier, passion fruit juice and cranberry juice, topped with champagne, garnished with an orange slice. French Pirate: Orange Curacao, dark rum, champagne. Tomorrow We Sail: port, dark rum, one teaspoon of triple sec, champagne. Bon voyage!

6. High altitude celebrations.

In Austria and Switzerland, celebrate on the snow. In Nendaz, Switzerland, torch-lit skiing by the local instructors, followed by mulled wine and party with DJ. In Chamois, Valle d’Aosta – a village that can be reached only by cable-car – you can watch the torch-lit procession, and enjoy mulled wine and panettone in the village square, warmed by an enormous bonfire. And in whatever ski resort you’re at, there is the added benefit that on 1 January you’ll have the slopes to yourself, while the others sleep off their hangover.

7. Run into the New Year.

Don’t relegate the jogging to your resolutions: get going straight away by running your way into 2013. In Toronto, a 5 km run starts at the stroke of midnight, and ends with party with fireworks and champagne. In Madrid, the San Silvestre Vallecana attracts thousands of runners who set off at 6.00 p.m. on a ten-kilometre course. A professional event over the same course starts at 8.00 p.m., for just 750 athletes. At the Midnight Run in Central Park, New York, runners warm up from 10.00 p.m. by dancing, and the run starts at midnight, accompanied by music and fireworks. In Bolzano, Italy, the BOclassic is an event that lasts all day on 31 December, with various categories from junior to professional.

8. Northern Lights in Iceland.

The country is one of the best places in the world to view the Northern Lights, and Akureyri, the ‘Capital of the North,’ is probably the best place to go. It has great skiing as well, and the Icelanders are enthusiastic about fireworks. To see the Aurora Borealis you have to head out into the country, away from the lights of the city.

9. Dining with style

If you’re thinking of going out for dinner, look for a chef’s table event. This will be, by definition, small and exclusive, a memorable experience, with superb cuisine and perfect wine pairings. If this proves impossible, stick to the stars: for example, La Pergola at the Rome Cavalieri, the only 3-Michelin star restaurant in Rome, and probably the finest hotel restaurant in Italy; Oliver Glowig, 2-Michelin starred restaurant at the Aldrovandi Villa Borghese, Rome; Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence.

10. Snow, trees, monastery, stars.

Get away from it all with an excursion to the woodlands of ‘Parco nazionale delle foreste casentinesi,’ near Arezzo in Tuscany. You’ll be trekking through the forest with snowshoes, visiting the monastery Eremo di Camaldoli, visiting a monumental 500-year old chestnut tree, watching the stars through a telescope with the guidance of an expert, and celebrating the New Year with dinner, bonfire and vin brulé. Click here for more info 

LUXOS spoke to company chairman Nicholas Wainwright in order to find out more about the transition from a county jewellers to a brand.

"For 195 years Boodles were county jewellers with a fine reputation. We sold silver, silver plate, clocks, 16 brands of watches, antiques and jewellery purchased from manufacturers around the world. We have a passion for jewellery, so 15 years ago we decided to specialize in our own designs of top quality jewellery. We employed a team of jewellery designers and decided there and then to become a significant player in fine jewellery. This has developed over recent years so that now Boodles can compete with the world’s best jewellery houses. This has enabled the company to firstly design, promote, advertise and sell our jewellery under the Boodles brand. It is impossible to be a well-known brand when you are selling other peoples products, but now all Boodles jewellery is designed and made by our own craftsmen and has a look all of its own." (Shown below, the Wild Swan necklace):

The process was accompanied by new boutiques in various U.K. locations, Chester, Manchester, and of course London, where a long-cherished family dream came true in 2007, when the first Boodles store on Bond Street was opened. Boodles also have a great website, with e-commerce trading. How important is an online presence to a luxury brand?

"Our e-commerce website was reinvented in 2012 and so far has been highly successful, but I do not believe a luxury brand can develop primarily with an on-line presence. Jewellery buyers like the all-round service that Boodles offer, receiving top quality advice from our salespeople who often develop a very close relationship with their customers which you cannot receive on-line. Our customers enjoy actually seeing, handling and trying on from a wonderful selection of jewellery in our stores." (Below, the Ocean bracelet):

Boodles are without doubt forging their own position in the luxury jewellery sector. Louis Vuitton included Boodles in its freshly-revised City Guide London 2012, describing them as 'A British brand to watch.' But what is it that sets Boodle apart from the competition? What is its all-Brit DNA?

"Boodles jewellery is designed and made in England primarily for British jewellery buyers. We have many international customers who admire British style and this is one of the reasons that they choose Boodles; but to dramatically change our style to attract customers from Russia, the Middle or Far East is not the way we wish to go. I think Boodles jewellery can now compete with many of the major international jewellery houses."

Something of the Boodles approach can be gauged from its approach to design. Nothing is mass-produced. Detailing is exquisite. Even parts of a jewel that will be forever hidden – the parts behind the stones – are carefully hand-polished. Diamonds are set on the reverse of rings, and are visible only when you take them off. Its Vintage rings are set with over 100 tiny diamonds. Its design prowess is such that the Boodles Raindance ring is part of the Victoria & Albert Museum's permanent collection illustrating 1,000 years of British jewellery. Their design process can incorporate customers' input – if this is the way they want to go. (Shown below, the Raindance Signature ring):

"Young couples very rarely ask for a completely unique engagement ring. There is such a wonderful selection of designs readily available to look at and try on, that unless they are attempting to copy an original ring which is no longer available, they are generally completely happy with the selection Boodles offer. We have noticed in the past two years there is a move away from single stone diamonds to a diamond beautifully mounted in a vintage style setting. Also fine quality sapphire and other valuable coloured gemstones are becoming more popular again for engagement rings." Shown below, the Double Vintage Oval Sapphire ring:

Below, the Oval Vintage Engagement ring:

The gemstone is central to a piece of luxury jewellery. Each is plucked from the earth, cut and polished, and has its own story to tell.

"Boodles travel the world looking for exciting and special diamonds and coloured gemstones. After we have purchased them at really good prices, we then present them to our design team for them to decide how best to set them into beautiful rings or jewellery." (Shown below, the Boodles yellow marquise diamond ring).

Boodles have come a long way. Take a look at their website, and you'll see why key players in the luxury industry feel that they are set to go a long way further.

Further reading:

Boodles website
Jewellery for the Year of the Snake
Red-hot rubies
Pomellato 67, the new collection

Coffee has been around for quite a while now, since the 15th century in Arabia, the 16th century in Europe, and the 17th century in North America. But it still comes as a surprise to find that many luxury hotels still seem to find it impossible to provide their guests with good, hot coffee at breakfast. By the time the waiter has arrived with the little white pot, the temperature of the liquid inside is at best luke-warm. There ought to be a guide to 'hotels capable of serving hot coffee.' After all, it's not rocket science. Even the tiniest bar in Italy has an espresso machine that produces fresh, hot coffee, served in cups that are pre-warmed simply by being stored on the top of the espresso machine.

There are lots of types of coffee, and lots of ways of making it. There are a few tips that are good for whatever the beans and machine. For example, keep the coffee maker clean, to ensure that the flavour of the brew is that of the fresh coffee alone. Purchase fresh-roasted beans regularly: flavour is best when beans were recently roasted, and are fresh-ground. Use cold filtered tapwater, if your tapwater tastes alright. Otherwise, mineral water can be used. Use a quality grinder, in which beans are ground (burr grinder) and not chopped.

The grind fineness depends on the method used to brew coffee. Coarse grinding is used for percolators (best avoided if you like good coffee) and cold brewing. The latter system is rather unusual in that the ground coffee is left in cold water for up to 12 hours, gradually filtering down through a felt filter and into a recipient. The resulting brew is less acidic and has a different taste when compared to hot-brewed coffee. It can be heated, or used for iced coffee. Medium ground coffee is used for French press pots and filter coffee systems. Fine-ground coffee is used for the traditional Neapolitan pot, in which water is heated to boiling, and then the pot is turned over so that the water filters through the coffee into the receptacle underneath. Extra fine grind is used for espresso machines and moka pots.

If it's cappuccino, the milk should be fresh and unskimmed.

Here are some suggestions on where to get great coffee in some of the LUXOS cities:

Best coffee in London:
Kaffeine, 66 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 7QJ, tel. +44 207 5806 755. Tube station Oxford Circus. Open every day.

Best coffee in Paris:
Télescope, 5 rue Villedo, 75001 Paris. Open every day. Close to the Palais Royal gardens.

Best coffee in Milan:
Peck, Via Spadari 9, 20123 Milano, tel. +39 02 8023 161. This tea-room is above the Peck delicatessen. It's the only place in Milan that understands what you want when you ask for a Barbagliata, an old Milanese blend of cocoa and espresso coffee topped with whipped cream.

Best coffee in Florence:
Caffé Serafini, Via Gioberti 168r, 50121 Firenze, tel. +39 055 2476 214. As well as the usual Italian range of coffees, you could try their Fornacino, in a small glass espresso cup with a little milk froth and chocolate flakes.

Best coffee in Rome:
Caffè Sant'Eustachio, Piazza Sant'Eustachio 82, 00186 Roma, tel. +39 06 6880 2048. Open every day until late.

Best coffee in Venice:
Torrefazione Marchi, Cannaregio 1337, Venezia, tel. +39 041 710 471. A small shop that roasts their own coffee.

Best coffee in Madrid:
Toma Café, Calle La Palma 49, 28004 Madrid, tel. + 34 917 025 620. Open every day, not far from Gran Via. Excellent coffee, good pastries.

Best coffee in Barcelona:
Cafès El Magnífico, Carrer de l'Argenteria 64, 08003 Barcelona, tel. +34 933 193 975. Freshly roasted, fresh-ground coffee is used with excellent results. Open Mon-Sat, about 10.00 a.m. to 8.00 p.m. While some cities (such as Milan) are famed for their bad coffee, Barcelona is famous for the quality of its brews as served in just about all venues.

Best coffee in Istanbul:
Fazıl Bey’in Türk Kahvesi, Serasker Cad. No1 A, Kadikoy, tel +90 21 6450 2870. Open every day, 8.00 a.m.–9.00 p.m. Istanbul is a place where coffee is taken seriously, and thankfully there are lots of local traditional coffee shops as well as some international chain outlets. Fazıl Bey’in is inside the Kadikoyfood market. Real Turkish coffee is served with a piece of Turkish delight. There is another like-named branch in the Istinye Park shopping mall.

Best coffee in Berlin:
Bonanza Coffee Heroes, Oderberger Straße 35, 10435 Berlin, tel. +49(0)171 5630 795. Open Mon-Fri 8.30 a.m.-7.00 p.m., Sat and Sun 10.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m. One of the few places in Berlin that roast their own coffee. Great coffee, good croissants.

Best coffee in Geneva:
Boréal Coffee Shop, Rue du Stand 60, CH-1204 Genève, tel. 022.310.69.60. Open Mon-Fri 7.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m., Sat and Sun 9.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m. Small, excellent coffee, free Wi-Fi, good music, good pastries.

Best coffee in Zurich:
Teecafe Schwarzenbach, Münstergasse 17, Zurich, Switzerland, tel. + 044 2611 380. Open Mon-Fri 8.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m., Sat 9.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m. Closed Sun. Established in 1864, they are still roasting and serving good coffee. Also good for hot chocolate and cheesecake.

Best coffee in Abu Dhabi:
Cafe Arabia, 15th Street between 2nd/Airport Road and 24th/Karamah, Abu Dhabi, tel. +971 2 6439 699. A community café, with books you can borrow, book clubs, writers' groups, art exhibitions, talks and more, in an informal atmosphere on three floors, and a terrace with great views.

Best coffee in Dubai:
Armani-Peck, Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, tel. 04 8883 444. Open every day 11 a.m.-11.00 p.m. Great coffee in cooperation with Peck (see under Milan above). Even the sugar-cubes are branded Armani!

Best coffee in Hong Kong:
Knockbox Coffee Company, 21 Hak Po Street, MongKok, Hong Kong. Open every day, 10.00 a.m.-10.00 p.m. They've just moved to these larger premises after their previous location in Central. Coffee quality is as high as ever.

Best coffee in Beijing:
Fisheye Café, S1-18, 1/F Sanlitun Village, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. Open 10.00 a.m.-10.00 p.m. Great coffee made from beans sourced from a number of countries. Lots of Lomo photography, free Wi-Fi.

Best coffee in Shanghai:
Amokka Café, Anfu Lu 201, 200040 Shanghai, tel. +86 21 5404 0998. Open every day, 7.00 a.m.-midnight. Located in the old French concession, a range of coffee and drinks, breakfast in the morning, right through to lunch and dinner.

Read more:
Best cafés and pastry-shops in Paris
Top 5 caffé and cornetto places in Rome
Borough Market, London

We want to go Swiss, of course. This is a guarantee of quality. The great divide is between watches with in-house movements, and watches with movements manufactured by a third party – principally the company ETA, owned by the Swatch Group.

The watches with in-house movements are more expensive. A good example of a Swiss brand that manufactures quality entry-level watches is Zenith, a company founded in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1865. The Zenith Elite Captain central second is a classic men's watch, with a 40-millimetre case, almost thin enough (8.15 millimetres) to be a dress watch, an automatic movement with 50 hours power reserve, central seconds hand, and date at a window at 6 o'clock. Buckles are in stainless steel or alligator. The sapphire caseback enables the oscillating weight driving the mechanism to be seen, with its Côtes de Genève decoration. A beautiful piece. The retail price is around €3,700. As functions are added, the price goes up. For example, the model with small seconds and GMT time retails at about €4,500, the chronograph at €5,800, exposed movement at €6,800, and calendar (date, month, year) at €7,200. In the photo below, the version with small seconds and power reserve.

A fine alternative is Jaeger-LeCoultre and its Master series. The Master Ultra Thin (shown below) has hours and minutes functions, and an automatic mechanism, and a price tag of about €6,500. The Master Ultra Thin Moon 39 (the title photo above) has a lovely extra in the form of the phases of the moon, as well as a central seconds hand: €7,250. The Master Series includes the Master Memovox, which includes a mechanical alarm with excellent acoustic performance. The brand was actually the first to offer this function in an automatic watch, in 1956. The Master Memovox retails at about €7,900.

If you opt for a watch with a Swiss-made third-party movement, you'll be spending much less. For example, Hamilton is an interesting brand for entry-level mechanical watches. Their payoff is 'The American brand since 1892,' but in fact they are a combination of American design – which often incorporates a military or aviation look – and Swiss-engineered movements. Hamilton is now owned by The Swatch Group, and so logically its watches house ETA movements (since 2010, ETA has been selling its movements exclusively to Swatch Group companies). By way of example, the Viewmatic Auto (shown below) is a smart, classic watch, with a 40 millimetre stainless steel case, a modern dial design, central seconds, and date window at 3 o'clock. The watchglass is in sapphire, and likewise the the caseback, revealing the oscillating weight. It is completed by a dark brown alligator strap. With a retail price of around €500, it is a good watch with which to start adventures in mechanical watches.

Of course, you can go cheaper. Hamilton also offers 'The Khaki Field,' a military-style mechanical watch, at about €350. The lower price is because the ETA movement is hand-wound. The khaki dial coordinates with the canvas khaki straps (as shon in the photo below). Other versions available include a black dial-beige strap piece, and another type with brown leather strap. But I would urge you to go for the automatic. After all, it's precisely this that is the Swiss watch dream: an object that has the possibility of running for ever, without having to wind it up, or change a battery.

Beyond Hamilton, there are other Swiss brands that use ETA movements in their automatic watches. For example, Longines make some beautiful classic watches, such as the Conquest Heritage series: steel case, fairly small at 35 millimetres, with hours, minutes, seconds and date. Price is around €850, with other similar versions available from €700. The Longines Conquest chronograph with ETA Valjoux 7750 movement retails at about €900. Shown below, the Longines Conquest:

Below, the Longines Conquest chronograph:

Other Swiss brands utilizing third-party movements include Tag Heuer (prices start from €1,200) and Baume & Mercier (from €1,000).

There you have it in a nutshell. Just head out to a good high-street multibrand boutique and take a look for yourself.

2013 is, to be more precise, the year of the Water Snake, the yin version. Superficially, this means that we should take extra care with financial transactions. Read the small print in those contracts. More deeply, just as snakes shed their skin to develop, in 2013 we will gradually understand what is hidden both in our own lives and in the world around us. It will be a year of reflection, an increase in undersstanding, gradual progress.

Bulgari's Serpenti collection has been a highlight of the brand from the 1960s on, and the latest products include rings, bracelets, pendants and handbags. Below, an image of the Serpenti watch.

Serpenti necklace by Bulgari:

Roberto Cavalli has launched a ring in which a faceted Swarovski crystal is held by a metal snake.

Carrera y Carrera makes some aggressive-looking Snake Pendants in white or yellow gold.

Cartier is a maison that has long worked with the world's most ferocious predators, such as crocodiles commissioned by Maria Félix, panthers for the Duchess of Windsor, and snakes, used for jewellery watches, in which precious stones and gold create an astonishing degree of realism.

A final note: the image on the home page (also below) is a historic piece by Cartier, commissioned by Mexican actress Maria Félix. It was made in 1968, with 2,473 diamonds, and it is fully articulated, so that it can be wrapped around the neck and shaped at will.

Read more:
Serpenti bags by Bulgari
Cartier interview with more on Maria Félix and the Duchess of Windsor
Search for Carrera y Carrera boutiques
Search for Roberto Cavalli boutiques
Search for Bulgari boutiques
Search for Cartier boutiques

The dial is a reproduction of a table that actually exists, in the Great Hall of Winchester Castle, in England. According to tradition, it is the table around which Arthur and his Knights actually met. It dates to about 1290, and it was later modified in the early years of Henry VIII's reign, with a portrait of Henry in the guise of Arthur at the centre. It is massive, over 5 metres in diameter, and weighs over a ton.

The watch is made in a limited edition of 88 pieces (I wonder why 88?). Like all Roger Dubuis watches, they have the Hallmark of Geneva, which guarantees the origin and expertise of the watch.

The RD822 automatic-winding mechanical movement provides hour and minutes functions. The 45 millimetre case in pink gold has a fluted bezel, a robust crown guard, and triple strap horns. We look foward to seeing it 'in the round' in Geneva! But, as Guinevere said, "What tomorrow brings, we cannot know."

Click here to read more watch stories

At the time that it was invented, one of the problems of mechanical watches was that the balance spring's rate of oscillation was affected by the watch's position, because of differences in the force of gravity. The tourbillon, developed by French-Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, possibly in cooperation with English chronometer-builder John Arnold, was designed to even out the effects of gravity by rotating the escapement and balance wheel.

The start of the tourbillon's history can be seen in Room 38-39 of the British Museum in London, in the form of a silver-cased chronometer. Abraham-Louis Breguet visited London in the 1780s, and he met John Arnold, who at that time was one of the leading chronometer makers. They evidently got on very well, probably because each recognized the other's skills – they were in fact the two most inventive watchmakers of their times. As a result of this meeting, John Arnold sent his son John Roger to work with him from 1792 to 1794, at his workshop at Quai l'Horloge in Paris.

On his journey to Paris, John Roger took this chronometer with him as a gift to Breguet, or perhaps the two great watchmakers had already discussed a cooperation on a new and more accurate timepiece. Whatever, between 1792 and 1794, Breguet modified the piece, adding the new revolving assembly that he named the tourbillon.

In a touching ending to the story, Breguet later returned the modified timepiece to John Roger Arnold, in 1808, nine years after John Arnold's death in 1799. Breguet added an engraved plate that reads: 'The first tourbillon regulator by Breguet incorporated in one of the first works by Arnold. Breguet's tribute to the honoured memory of Arnold. Presented to his son in 1808.'

In the photo below, a portrait of Breguet.

Below, watch a Breguet video about the tourbillon:

Read more:
The Marie-Antoinette watch by Breguet
Click here to find Breguet boutiques worldwide

We began with the history of this ‘product family.’ Mr. Pantli said that the manufacturer produced its very first pilot’s watch in 1935 when there were no such products on the market, and so there was no particular target group of purchasers either. Recalling his own curiosity with regards to this episode, Mr. Pantli had wondered why a small town in Switzerland like Schauffhausen would make such a watch. His research led to the discovery that the two sons of the Homberger family, who owned the watch brand at that time, obtained their pilot’s license (the originals are kept in the watch manufacturer’s headquarters today) in London, 1933. It was their passion for aviation that led to the birth of the collection.

Mr. Pantli said that IWC Schauffhausen first created the Big Pilot's Watch for the German Air Force in 1940. After World War II, the Mark 10 and Mark 11 were manufactured for the Royal Air Force. The latter was also produced for the Air Forces of Canada, Australia and South Africa. The Pilot's Watches collection was officially launched with the Mark 15 and the line has been developed ever since.

After this prolific period, IWC wanted to create something more modern and up-to-date for the relaunch, said Mr. Pantli. It had in mind today's top pilots – the Top Gun pilots, whom everyone got to know through the 1986 motion picture. IWC contacted the U.S. Navy, which for the very first time, gave the watch manufacturer the license to use the name ‘Top Gun.’

In the 1940s, 50s and 60s, the pilot's watch was produced for professional use. Today, it is also appreciated as a masculine sports watch. With minutes on the outside of the dial and hours on the inside, its design recalled the original pilot's watches. The Miramar line in the new collection was named after the city where the first fighter jet school was founded, near San Diego in Southern California.

When asked about the BRIC economy, he expressed that the Pilot’s Watches collection was not relaunched just to target these new markets. Nowadays, as customers travel more and more, their taste for luxury goods have become increasingly global. Mr. Pantli went on to say that, after many years of being well established in China, IWC Schauffhausen is poised and ready for the rise of the Chinese economy.

For LUXOS readers, Mr. Pantli recommended the Big Pilot's Watch Top Gun Miramar featuring a ceramic case. He said that his personal favourite would have to be the Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun, with a northern and southern hemisphere moon phase display in addition to the namesake grand complication. The Top Gun timepieces are the sportiest in the collection, and the Spitfire watches have been redesigned for a more elegant look. Mr. Pantli emphasized that the Pilot's Watches collection, after decades of continuous development, has truly become an important product family today.

Read more on IWC Schaffhausen:
The extraordinary story of IWC

Quite a way’s from its Portobello Market beginnings, the Walpole Award for British Luxury Overseas and the Queen’s Award for Enterprise: International Trade under its belt, the Hackett identity is best represented in its London retail homes. Simple, yet classic with that endearing quirkiness the British are known for, the store’s interior recalls the Gothic Revival style popular in the Georgian era when John Soane’s elegant town houses forever refined Regent Street. Reminders of Hackett’s heritage are underscored by period prints, old photographs and paintings, salon chairs are left unfinished to showcase their workmanship – reflecting the idea of a man’s bespoke suit – and fitting room walls are upholstered with old suit patterns, complete with their original tailor scribbles.

This season, Hackett presents styles tailored to the different tastes of the modern gentleman. For traditional types, Town & Country features Hackett’s authentic Scottish tweeds in patterns that include the signature green based, red overcheck ‘Horse & Hound’ as well as a new ‘Diamond Jubilee’ check commemorating the Queen’s 2012 milestone. For men who like their fit slim and sleek, the Hackett Mayfair range streamlines the weaving process with a new ‘mechanical stretch’ featuring better movement. Alpine is the Hackett answer to sophisticated men’s winter wear with handsome cashmere knits, for the perfect après ski ensemble, the brand is in fact sponsor to the annual Klosters Snow Polo tournament. The Modern Prep line takes inspiration from the brand’s sponsorship of the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race, putting the bright collegiate colours and patterns on duffel coats, striped scarves, bow ties and lambswool knits. An avid sponsor of professional sport that spans the realms of polo, tennis, rowing and automobile racing, the brand’s work with the Aston Martin Racing team brings us a sportswear range of racing tech jackets, polos and accessories.

Hackett’s personal men’s tailoring service offers your choice of preferred cloth and block, measured up and consulted as to your tastes and requirements (i.e. extra pockets or specific linings). The result: a highly individual, custom piece with a fantastic fit.

Summed up best by founder Jeremy Hackett, “Hackett is a brand that is truly British and has an authenticity and integrity that belies its years. Hackett dresses men of all ages in a style which is classic but not old fashioned.”

The mesmerising necklace designed for the Tiffany Diamond was created according to the brand’s longstanding craftsmanship and tradition. Tiffany’s jewellery designers submitted innovative ideas and concepts for the new setting with the result emulating the brand’s generations of expert craftspeople which came before them. Skilled artisans meticulously hand-cut and set each diamond in the modern, fluid design that rests lightly on the neckline and which radiates light and energy with each movement. Over a year in the making, the elegant necklace of white diamonds totals over 120 carats and features 20 Lucida® diamonds and 58 brilliant-cut diamonds. The Diamond’s mounting, an openwork motif of sunrays, is designed with 481 sparkling stones.

The Diamond was discovered in the Kimberley diamond mines in South Africa in 1877 with the 287.42-carat rough stone then acquired the following year by Founder Charles Lewis Tiffany. It solidified Mr. Tiffany’s reputation as the “King of Diamonds” and made his enterprise the world’s diamond authority. The rough stone was then brought to Paris, where Tiffany’s chief gemologist, Dr. George Frederick Kunz, supervised the cutting of the diamond into a cushion-shape brilliant weighing 128.54 carats with an unprecedented 82 facets—24 more facets than the traditional 58-facet brilliant cut. The stone is just over an inch wide and seven-eighths of an inch from top to bottom. It is cut to enhance its radiant colour rather than size and sparkles as if lit by an inner flame.

Tiffany’s flagship store is located at The Dubai Mall, Tel: +971 43398350.

Exclusive it is. The Bugatti Veyron 16.4 Grand Sport Vitesse is a car made to order. No more than 50 cars leave the works every year. Pierre-Henri Raphanel, official driver at Bugatti, performs up to 100 customer drives and up to 200 media drives all over the world. The markets showing best results are the USA, the Middle East and Europe, all at about 25% of the total. Within Europe, the UK leads with about 45 cars sold so far, then the Netherlands with seven or eight cars, and then France with five. The statistics are confirmed by the size and duration of Bugatti clubs in different countries. The British branch is the oldest in the world.

But what about Italy?

"Italians are very patriotic. They admire Bugatti but Ettore Bugatti set up his company in the Alsace in France. So in their eyes the company is French. So they would rather buy three Ferraris than one Bugatti."

The chance to be able to talk to Pierre-Henri suggested the obvious question. What does it feel like to drive a 1,200-horsepower car? A car with a 7.9 litre, 16-cylinder engine producing 1,500 Nm torque, a performance of 0-100 km/h in 2.6 seconds, and a top speed of 410 km/h? Without doubt, the fastest production roadster ever.

"The feel of acceleration is incredible, because you have a car that is close to Formula 1 performance, but you are driving it on normal roads at normal conditions. This means a unique feeling of speed and power. A Formula 1 driver recently test-drove the car, and after putting it through its paces, he returned with a big smile on his face. The dimension of power is huge; it cannot be compared with anything else on the market. You just don't have a point of reference: just consider that you have twice the performance of anything else on the road. And I mean double: not just five or ten percent extra."

Do you have to be very skilled to control all that power?

"That's one of the remarkable characteristics of the Vitesse. It incorporates a massive amount of technology, so that everyone can drive it. You don't need advanced driving skills. I often say, if you want to be a better driver, just buy a Bugatti!"

You're buying a lot of engineering: fast-response shock absorbers adapted from Formula 1, perfect steering balance through optimized wheel-load fluctuation, modified chassis, and a reinforced seven-speed dual-clutch gearbox. Suspension height varies with speed, with automatic or manual regulation.

"All this means that you can put your foot hard on the brake pedal at 300 km/h and the car stays totally in line even with two fingers on the steering wheel. I know for a fact that some of our cars are driven very successfully by women of an advanced age. They love it too."

In other words, it is fully in line with today's trend towards user-friendlier cars. And it's exclusive. The total number of units will not exceed 150.

Some technical specifications:
Engine/cylinders: W16
Power output: 882 kW (1,200 HP) at 6,400 rpm
Max torque: 1,500 Nm at 3,000-5,000 rpm
Gearbox: 7-gear DSG
Drive: all-wheel
Power distribution: front axle differential with Haldex clutch; rear axle with transverse differential lock
Wheel brake cylinders: 8 front, 6 rear
Top speed: 410 km/h
Acceleration: 2.6 sec 0-100 km/h; 16 secs 0-300 km/h
Fuel consumption, combined: 23.1 l/100 km

Read more:

The Bugatti Vitesse watch by Parmigiani Fleurier

Formula One is without doubt the ultimate test for automotive technology, and the greatest challenge is to be the best, race after race. But you need more than just good drivers and fast cars. Earlier this year, I met the world champion team Red Bull Racing to see what it takes to be the fastest. I quickly realized that the key to success is teamwork. Red Bull Racing has two drivers, a ground crew of 90, over 600 engineers at RBR’s headquarters, as well as technical support from their sponsor, Japanese luxury car manufacturer Infiniti.

Sigl explained: “There’s a clear synergy between Infiniti and Red Bull Racing in how we approach performance and the fact we are both challenger brands.” What does the collaboration between Inf initi and Formula One entail? Given F1’s visibility and popularity, there is definitely a lot of marketing involved, but what exactly is Infiniti’s role on the technical side of things? RBR Team Principal Christian Horner replied to this one. He explained, “We are working closely with Infiniti engineers and looking at future technologies that as an independent team we would never have access to.” He also mentioned Kinetic Energy Recovery Systems and other improvements that are used on track.

The encounter between Formula One champion Sebastian Vettel and Infiniti’s Senior Vice President and Chief Creative Officer Shiro Nakamura led to the creation of a new car model, the FX Sebastian Vettel Version. It is the result of Infiniti’s exquisite design and Vettel’s racing experience. This Formula One-inspired crossover was unveiled at the Frankfurt Motor Show last year and it will soon be available around the globe.

As I reflected on what Horner had said about future technology, I recalled Vettel's and Webber’s race at Nordschleife circuit earlier this year, in which they put the Infiniti M and its hybrid model through their paces. The result? Let’s just say that Webber concluded with “next time I’ll have a crack at the hybrid.” Infiniti has not only been turning heads with their sleek petrol and hybrid cars, they caused a stir at the Geneva Motor Show 2012 with the Emerg-E. This model is 100% electric and 100% sexy! Or as Webber commented after his test drive: “Cars like this have to be the future – fast, fun and clean.” Kudos to the team, and let’s wish them truly electrifying results!

A spin-off on the popular London event ‘Polo in the Park’ pioneering the City Polo soon to take place in the other key financial centers of Singapore and Shanghai, the Abu Dhabi match was unusual in that the event took place on a pitch smaller than the regular polo field allowing spectators the ability to get closer to the action. In addition, each team was comprised of three players reduced from the usual four in order to best make use of the smaller space.

The action began with the magnificent ‘Palace dash’ whereby two opponents raced full speed towards each other from opposite ends of the polo pitch to see who could get the ball first. The event proceeded with eager onlookers perched close to field to get a first-hand look at the action. Tied at the end of the fourth ‘chukka’, Hublot team Buenos Aires withstood against the home team favourites who took the match into overtime gaining a final two-point goal in the last minutes and securing the inaugural Coutts Polo.

The final match was watched by a glamorously dressed crowd on the lawns of the Emirates Palace. Enjoying the beautiful weather as well as the UAE capital’s first polo match, guests marveled as Hublot team Buenos Aires captain Mohammed Al-Habtoor was awarded the Coutts Cup by His Highness Sheikh Nahyan Bin Mubarak Al-Nahyan, Minister of Higher Education and Scientific Research at the official prize giving ceremony.

An event of elegance and luxury, Coutts Polo at the Palace was supported by some of the world’s most renowned brands such as Maserati, Nespresso, La Martina and Hublot.

Georges Kern, CEO of IWC, said, “Our new Flagship Boutique takes IWC’s watchmaking heritage to a new level. We are proud to celebrate this occasion with our distinguished guests and to honour the importance of the Chinese market with an exclusive timepiece”.

The guests included actress Tang Wei, Olympic gold medal winner Chen Yibing, actor Su You Peng, actress Zhu Zhu, movie director Wang Xiaoshuai, and artist Wang Luyan. From the company, alongside Georges Kern were Benoit de Clerck, Managing Director of IWC Asia Pacific, and Dennis Lee, Managing Director of IWC China.

The boutique is on Parkview Green, a new mall in Beijing's business district. It represents an important step for the watch brand, partly for its sheer size: it is a two-level glass cube over a floor area of about 300 square metres, with superb interior design in dark woods and fine textiles that evoke the sort of quality that is synonymous with the marque.

One room of the boutique is dedicated exclusively to the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia, a remarkable instrument whose movement has over 500 components, with a constant-force tourbillon escapement, and functions that include solar and sidereal time, twilight, sunrise and sunset times, stars and constellations. It was this reference that became the exclusive watch dedicated to Beijing, with a celestial chart on the caseback depicting the profile of the Forbidden City. The watch will be stored in this boutique, a worthy home.

Read more:

IWC Portuguese Automatic 2012
IWC's Pilots' watch collection
Click here to find IWC boutiques worldwide

"Often a relationship between a car marque and a watch brand is not natural," said Pierre-Henri Raphanel, official driver for Bugatti, present at the evening in Milan. "In this case, it is a perfect match. For example, many people said that Michel Parmigiani's idea for a 90°-slewed movement could never work. The same was said of Bugatti's 1,200-horsepower car. In both cases, the product functions to perfection. Both brands are pushing the limits. Both are for connoisseurs."

The Bugatti Vitesse therefore underlines the ongoing agreement between Parmigiani Fleurier and Bugatti. Of course, there are many partnerships between fine watch brands and high-end car manufacturers – examples include Jaeger-LeCoultre and Aston Martin, Panerai and Ferrari (initially the Italian car brand worked with Girard-Perregaux), Breitling and Bentley, Tag Heuer and Tesla, and so forth – but the Bugatti-Parmigiani Fleurier collaboration is exceptional for its depth and quality.

The Vitesse watch has many visual references to the car, such as the use of high-tech-finish titanium, and the dial in Texalium, an advanced material in glass fibre and aluminium. The distinctive side view of the watch is a direct reference to the car's flank with its unmistakable air intake design. It is also part of the Parmigiani Fleurier DNA, because the marque's watches feature lugs with the same shape.

The movement maintains the same principal features of the preceding model, the Bugatti Super Sport, with its conical gear train that transforms the movement's drive by 90°. The movement itself has an architecture that reflects that of a car engine, with gears cut to resemble alloy wheel hubs. Finish is superb throughout, in 'black or,' Côtes de Genève and satin-finish bridges.

The movement, PF 372, is manually-wound, with a power reserve of ten hours, and a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 oscillations/hour). Its functions are hours, minutes, and power reserve. There are two colour variants, the first with white Texalium dial, blue cabochon on the crown, and a strap in blue alligator; while the second has an orange Texalium dial, and a red-orange cabochon and strap. (The straps, one of the few components not made in-house, are made by Hermès, Paris). The series number of each piece is engraved on the caseback. Sections of the movement can be seen through six sapphire crystals. The dial is marked with the Bugatti logo, while the Parmigiani Fleurier name is under the 9 o'clock position, and on the cabochon.

The bottom line is that the Parmigiani Fleurier Vitesse is an exclusive watch, not a watch for everyone, but one that is inherently practical, and simple to use. Just like the Bugatti Vitesse car: it has a huge performance, but the technology is so exceptional that anyone can drive it, keeping it under perfect control. The prices of both reflect the same idea of exclusivity: customers who can pay two million euro for the car will have no problem with the watch's pricetag!

It has a happy ending. Breguet's pocket watch '1160 Marie-Antoinette' is a masterpiece of contemporary watchmaking, considered the fifth most complicated in the world. Its functions include hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar, equation of time, a repeater that chimes hours, quarters and minutes, independent seconds (in other words, a chronometer), thermometer, and power-reserve indicator. It incorporates some new patents such as the straight-line perpetual calendar patented in 1997, and the perpetual equation of time mechanism patented in 1991.

The 1160 watch has a total of 823 components, with automatic mechanism and a platinum oscillating weight. Bridges and many components are in pink gold, wood-polished according to the finest traditions. Blued screws and extensive jewelling are accompanied by skeleton-work and a rock crystal dial and caseback that allows much of the movement to be seen. A masterpiece – it has been referred to as the Mona Lisa of watchmaking – that has been exhibited at Petit Trianon, Versailles, and the Louvre.

All this began a long, long time ago. In 1782, Queen Marie-Antoinette of France bought a watch from Breguet, reference 10/82, with repeater and perpetual calendar. She liked it. Next year, Abraham-Louis Breguet received another order, from an officer in the Queen's Guard, asking for another watch that incorporated all the complications known at the time. No limits of time, no limits of price. It was all a bit mysterious. Possibly the commission came from one of the Queen's admirers, perhaps Count Axel von Fersen. Whoever it was, it wasn't an order that could be ignored, and so Breguet started work, designing a watch that would include his two prime specialities, the perpetual calendar and the repeater mechanism, and a great deal besides. First of all, an automatic winding mechanism, at that time known as 'perpétuelle' and exclusive to Breguet, with a platinum oscillating weight. Power reserve, a thermometer, a large 'independent seconds hand' (which made the watch the first chronograph), small seconds, and a double pare-chute anti-shock system. All bearings in sapphire. The perpetual calendar included the four-year cycle. Without doubt it was the most complicated watch ever made for at least the next hundred years. It had a 60 millimetre case, with caseback and dial in rock crystal, housing the incredible total of 23 complications.

All this took a long time. The Breguet manufacture completed it in 1827. By then, poor Marie-Antoinette had been put to death, climbing the scaffold to the guillotine holding her last purchase from Breguet, a simple model that had been delivered to her in 1792, while she was in prison. Abraham-Louis Breguet himself had died. It's not clear to whom Breguet sold this masterpiece, but, according to the company records, they saw it again in 1838 when one Marquis dello Groye brought it to them for maintenance. Another mystery: he never returned to collect it. The maison kept it until 1887, when they sold it to a British collector, Sir Spencer Brunton. It changed hands several times in later decades, until 1974, when its final owner, Vera Salomons, donated it, along with the rest of her father's collection of watches, to the LA Mayer Museum for Islamic Art in Jerusalem.

In 1983, the entire collection of watches conserved at the museum was stolen. Notwithstanding the efforts of the Interpol, by 2004 there was still no trace of the 'Marie-Antoinette,' valued at about $30 million, nor of the rest of the collection. So Nicolas G. Hayek, CEO of the Swatch Group that owned Breguet and many other watch brands, decided to re-create this incredible watch. All that Breguet had to go on were some brief descriptions, simplified drawings, and a few old photographs. They also had some other antique movements that reflected some parts of Reference 160. The engineers at Breguet put together all the clues and began to work on the new 'Marie-Antoinette.'

At this stage, another player enters the scene. In Versailles, an old oak traditionally associated with Marie-Antoinette had to be cut down, at the age of 322 years, in 2003 following gales and drought. Nicolas G. Hayek sent a Breguet delegation to Versailles in the hope of buying part of the Marie-Antoinette oak in order to make a casket for the watch that, when completed, would bear the same name. The Versailles authorities accepted, and in return asked Breguet to restore a statue in the park. Hayek generously said that he would prefer to restore the entire Petit Trianon, buildings used and loved by Queen Marie-Antoinette, an investment of €5 million. The timber was taken to Switzerland, and work began on the casket.

In 2007, the watch was complete, and it started running for the first time. News of the story appeared in the press. Soon after, Nicolas G. Hayek received an email. Someone was offering him the original Marie-Antoinette!

The Swatch CEO contacted the police, who started investigations, and found that someone was trying to sell some of the watches stolen from the museum in Jerusalem. After a lot of detective work, it was found that the seller was the widow of a notorious Israeli thief who had fled to Europe and then the USA, and confessed this particular crime to his wife on his deathbed.

Meanwhile, Marie-Antoinette 2.0 was complete, along with the casket, beautifully inlaid with over 1,000 pieces of different types of wood, created by a cabinetmaker in Val de Joux. In April 2008, the watch was presented at Baselworld, and in October 2008, Breguet presented the completion of the Petit Trianon, after a restoration project designed to show the building as if the Queen had just left. In other words, a home and not a museum.

Nicolas George Hayek died suddenly in June 2010, while at work at the Swatch Group headquarters in Biel. He had contributed a lot to the Renaissance of the Swiss watch industry following the quartz revolution, masterminding the Swatch concept, and the continuing success of fine watch brands including Blancpain, Omega, Longines, Tissot, Breguet and others. He also played an important part in the launch of the Smart car. But probably the finest monument to his work is the Marie-Antoinette. The original is back in the museum in Jerusalem, but it was a very complicated story involving insurance, ownership and ongoing investigations. Hayek never saw the original version of the watch that he had so lovingly recreated.

Read more:
Breguet, patron of the arts
The Breguet flagship in Hong Kong

Transgressive or romantic? Here are the perfect gowns for you, straight from the most exclusive runways. At Gucci, Frida Giannini wields her brush like an artist working on a canvas, and presents a rather dark romanticism, with references to a mysterious, almost dreamlike world, something out of Charles Baudelaire's ‘Les Fleurs du Mal’. The result is a look that is both provocative and intellectual, perfect for opening nights at the theatre, inauguration balls, celebrations that are not excessively formal, or a youthful wedding amongst multicoloured confetti. We recommend the velvet jackets, trouser skirts, and the light chiffon voile.

A mix of temptress and warrior, the Versace woman is equally provocative, and ready to take the stage in events that call for a twist, such as graduations in arty subjects or contemporary cultural openings. She wears a velvet redingote with a Byzantine-cross print pattern, dark-coloured mini-dresses, or glittering looks that seem to have been designed directly on the body. If you're looking to wow the other guests at an exceptional evening occasion in which there is much more glamour than ceremony, such as an après-red carpet event, try the chainmail gown, which immediately transforms you into the queen of cyber-rock.

For more traditional events such as important weddings, a good choice is Christian Dior, a brand that this year has abandoned excess, adopting a sober and very feminine elegance. Looks for the daytime are close-fitting on the bust, and looser and more swinging on the hips. In the evening, they become softer and more romantic, with petal shapes, and prestige fabrics such as tulle, satin and silk. Wearing them gives you a style that recalls the divine Grace Kelly.

The collection by Louis Vuitton has touches of the natural elegance of Charlotte Perriand. It combines military details with rounded forms, opulent textiles and luxuriant decoration. The woman styled by Mark Jacobs is absolutely and eternally feminine, with unmistakable charm and the bold, chic appeal that hallmarks the brand. Ideal for a first night at the theatre or opera.

Burberry Prorsum adds a dash of that classic proper Brit to the evening with sumptuous velvet column dresses paired with contrast velvet belts with a pretty bow accent. Asymmetric draped skirts in velvet, wool and peplum are the perfect answer to an event that doesn’t call for ball gown attire, while the tiered eyelash pencil skirts infuse an effortless sass to even the most basic pair of black heels and stockings.

The femininity proposed by Etro is carefully constructed and crafted to produce a look of luxurious elegance. Paisley is Veronica Etro’s star this season and it reigns supreme over floor length dresses in velvet, embroidered on lace or tulle intarsia and luscious leather. Elements that hallmark a collection in which the Etro roots are combined with a contemporary vision of refined sophistication.

A little over half a century ago Breakfast at Tiffany’s did for the iconic jewellers as Midnight in Paris did for the French capital. it propelled Audrey Hepburn, dressed in Givenchy and bejewelled by Tiffany & Co., whose Fifth Avenue boutique Holly Golightly was so rapt with, to one of the great style icons of the 20th century. This Christmas, the jeweller returns to the big screen for The Great Gatsby. Set in the privileged playground of 1920s new York, it’s dressed entirely by F. Scott Fitzgerald’s own tailor, Brooks Brothers, with the dazzling Deco platinum-set diamond and lustrous pearl jewellery especially created for the film by Tiffany & Co., who also provided the china, sterling silverware and furnishings for Jay Gatsby’s long island mansion.

The jeweller played an intrinsic role in the unbridled optimism of 1920s America, counting Fitzgerald as a regular customer and Louis Comfort Tiffany himself moved in the Long Island circles the novel depicts. “The Tiffany & Co. archives have proven to be an invaluable resource in looking back at this Golden era of affluence and fine jewelry,” Catherine Martin, the film’s costume designer, states.

The Great Gatsby continues a time- honoured tradition of films calling on fashion designers to create a ‘look’ - from Jean Paul Gaultier and Paco Rabanne’s futuristic wardrobes for The Fifth Element and Barbarella, respectively, to Catherine Deneuve dressed by Yves Saint Laurent in Belle de Jour and the slim-fitting Gucci suit that carries Robert Pattison through Cosmopolis (in the photo below).

It’s a reciprocal relationship, with the big screen often inspiring designers, too. Pal Zileri’s fall/winter 2012 collection is heavily influenced by the Fifties, with numerous references to the films of Alfred Hitchcock throughout the suits and styles while, last summer, the looks of the Roaring Twenties abounded across the collections of designers such as Roberto Cavalli, Etro and Gucci in what was dubbed ‘Gatsby fever.’ Frida Giannini spoke of the enduring influence of film on Gucci at a dinner in Cannes last April to mark the Gucci film fund’s latest cinematic restoration - Sergio Leone’s Once Upon a Time in America. The brand is among the most active in championing film, having also established the Gucci Award for Women in cinema, the Gucci Tribeca Documentary Fund and the art + film Gala. Giannini, the brand’s Creative Director, stated: “Gucci’s own 90- year history has consistently been influenced by film, and I continue to be personally inspired by cinema.”

Perhaps the most recent genre to emerge is the fashion short. Prada debuted A Therapy starring Helena Bonham Carter and Ben Kingsley at the Cannes Film Festival last May. It was directed by Roman Polanski, who said of the project, "The chance to dwell on what the fashion world represents nowadays and the fact that it is accompanied by so many stereotypes is fascinating and at the same time a bit upsetting, but you definitely cannot ignore it. It’s very refreshing to know that there are still places open to irony and wit and, for sure, Prada is one of them.”

Mulberry Brand Director Georgia Findley talked to LUXOS about its entry, Skirt, for the FilmInStyle project. "At the screening, Skirt did stand out, the only film not directly about a brand, product or creative director, but it stood out in a really good way. It is a beautiful, charming film and everyone really enjoyed it and it seemed a natural fit with Mulberry." Skirt went on to win the accolade of 'Best Fashion Short' at the Vimeo Film Awards in New York last May, and was also shown at the city's Fashion Film Festival, alongside Lanvin's campaign featuring Karen Elson and Racquel Zimmerman dancing under the direction of Steven Meisel.

This season's Dior film is shot in Versailles, a visually gorgeous celebration of the current collection in the setting that's been a longtime inspiration to the couture brand.

Always at the technological cutting edge, Burberry unveiled its flagship Regent Street store (the brand's largest retail space yet) this autumn with the latest instalment of its groundbreaking 'Burberry World Live' series, an event like no other, merging live bands, 360-degree films, holograms and animation in an extra-sensory, audiovisual riot. And it's not just for one night only. In-store, shoppers will find Burberry's most forward-thinking vision of 'retail theatre' yet, incorporating moving footage and technology that shoppers activate as they walk around the store. Even the signage takes the form of the moving image.

If fashion is a narrative, and our most treasured pieces tell a story, then it seems that designers and brands are increasingly experimenting with ever-evolving ways of bringing the fairytale to life onscreen via fashion's new frontier of film.

Read more:
Film locations in Italy
Fashion and film
Cartier the movie, LUXOS exclusive interview

Paisley is a pattern whose roots run back to Mesopotamia, where it symbolized shoots of the date palm, in turn considered the tree of life. Later it became a constant feature of hand-woven Indian fabrics used for women's shawls in the 19th century. Etro has used Paisley for inspiration from 1984 right up until the present, applied to its garments but also its bags and accessories, sometimes deconstructed and reworked in a variety of colours and styles. The two examples below are from the fall/winter 2012-13 collections.

Below, the Etro boutique in Tokyo.

Click here to see the location of the Etro boutique in Tokyo

Read the LUXOS report on the women's fall-winter 2012-13 collection
Read the LUXOS report on the women's spring 2013 collection

The crystalline structure of ruby is relatively small compared to other precious gemstones. Five carats are hard to find, and 10 carats or above are an invaluable rarity. Burmese ruby is best known in the market today for its characteristic red which seems to have a natural fluorescent glow. Countries such as Vietnam, Sri Lanka, Turkey, Brazil and Afghanistan also produce ruby. In Burma, ruby mining has over 1,000 years of history, and in northern Burma, the Mogok region has been producing some of the world’s most coveted rubies for the past 800 years. Due to overmining, Mogok rubies are more expensive than ever today, with prices that increase every year. In particular, five carats of premium gem quality can fetch a handsome price.

Ruby is valued not only for its rarity, but also for its colour. It can range from pink to blood red. Purplish or brownish tints are considered inferior quality. The most costly colour is Pigeon’s Blood, which is a pure red with a minute trace of blue. All natural Pigeon’s Blood rubies are sold at a premium: half of them come from Burma. When purchasing ruby, besides looking for a natural colour, it is important that the gemstone has not been artificially treated, as this can greatly affect its value. Nowadays, many rubies on the market have undergone heat treatment for improved gem quality.

One can understand the true value of a ruby by looking at its rarity, colour and naturalness. Besides these characteristics, a certificate issued by internationally recognized authorities such as the Gem Research Swisslab (GRS), Gübelin Gem Lab and Schweizerisches Gemmologisches Institut (SSEF) is your guarantee to investment-worthy ruby.

In other words, we're moving towards the possibility of buying a fashion-designer watch not just for the name of the marque, but for the quality of the watch.

Dolce & Gabbana's watches for men include the DG7 Gems, with large gemstones on the dial and a coloured alligator-type strap. Variants include ruby and emerald colours. The quartz movement is made in Switzerland, entirely gold-plated to prevent oxidization and improve conductivity. Battery life is about two years. These watches are colourful and striking: they could appeal to women as well.

The DS5 (the 'DS' stands for Domenico and Stefano) shows the same attention to visual design – the collections were designed by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana – but it is also more of a watch-lover's watch, with a Swiss-made automatically-wound mechanical movement (ETA Valjoux 7750) that has COSC certification. The oscillating weight and other parts of the movement can be seen through the transparent sapphire caseback. Power reserve is about 42 hours. Functions are central hours and minutes, chronograph, small seconds, day and date. There are a number of variants with different dial, case and strap finishes. Prices start from about €3,890.

The DG7 is a more classic, automatically-wound mechanical watch, with Swiss-made movement (ETA 2892) providing about 42 hours' power reserve. Transparent sapphire caseback. The principal design features comprise the simplicity of the dial, with a brushed slate finish, baton-type hands and hour indices except for the Roman numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock, and large lugs with a brushed finish. This is made in a number of variants: steel case with black PVD sides and black alligator strap; steel case with silver-finish dial; an all-black PVD look; coloured versions in aubergine, green and brown, with steel cases and the colour used on dial and strap. Prices for the watches start at about €1,970.

The Dolce & Gabbana watches mark a developing trend: the diversification of fashion and lifestyle brands into high-quality timepieces. Montblanc accomplished this transition by acquiring the Le Locle brand Minerva. We look foward to seeing how other fashion marques handle this new direction.
 

Shanghai offers a kaleidoscope of shopping experiences, with everything from mammoth-sized malls to intimate luxury boutiques that line bustling streets, crowded with more people and traffic than you can imagine. Shanghai has some of the world’s largest flagship stores, so chances are high that you will find just about every international brand somewhere in this cosmopolitan city.

It’s not just about names though... Location, location, location! The shopping destinations we feature here boast some of the best addresses in Shanghai. Whether you are standing at the intersection of Nanjing West Road and Shanxi North Road, or Huaihai Middle Road and Huangpi South Road, you might get the surreal feeling of being in downtown New York City or London. As China’s National Day and Golden Week approach, it is the perfect time to go do some pre-festival shopping and get to know Shanghai, which today, has become a global luxury hub – like never before.

One of the locals’ firm favourites, Plaza 66 is no newcomer to Shanghai’s shopping scene. This 5-floor mall houses more than 100 luxury fashion and lifestyle brands. What’s fun about coming here is the central atrium, which features a unique, ever-changing installation. Whether it’s a gigantic Tiffany & Co. jewellery box, a larger-than-life Lady Dior bag emerging from the ground, or a Cartier Christmas tree towering over a bed of oversized gift boxes, you will find something new at Plaza 66 every time you visit.

Among the A to Z of the world’s top fashion, watch and jewellery brands is Louis Vuitton, which fêted the grand opening of its Shanghai Maison in Plaza 66 with a major global event this summer. Enjoy a unique shopping experience in this new flagship with a glamorous LED-lit façade, as you browse the latest collections showcased inside amongst custom-made furniture. Its sophisticated setting is dedicated to the art of travel, with an haute maroquinerie salon where you can have your purchases customized, or have a bespoke piece created just for you. Besides shopping, Plaza 66 is also a great dining destination with Asian and international restaurants, as well as sophisticated lifestyle offerings from Clarins Skin Spa, Frette and Saint-Louis, to Bang & Olufsen and Bose.

For those of you looking for a more exclusive and personal experience in Shanghai, The Peninsula Arcade is a great place to spend an afternoon, whether you decide to have lunch first at the hotel, or get your shopping done before tea time served in its lobby. At the Arcade, the Italian masters include Berluti, Brioni, Canali and Giorgio Armani (perfect for the gentleman); top watches and jewellery brands such as Chaumet, Graff and Harry Winston also reside here; and for the ladies: Chanel, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Roberto Botticelli, Shanghai Tang, Sonia Rykiel and Versace boutiques are all here to ensure you dress top to toe in the latest trends.

If you are looking for souvenirs to bring home, The Peninsula Boutique is a great place to get a handsome box of chocolates, Chinese tea or simply something beautiful to remember your visit. Don’t forget that the concierge is at your complete disposal, a perfect complement to The Peninsula’s brand of hospitality for a personalized shopping experience.

Ifc Shanghai is another one-stop destination that will not disappoint if you want to shop with friends, go to the movies and grab some lunch or dinner. Over 180 boutiques are here under one roof, in addition to restaurants, bars, a 6-screen cinema, Shanghai’s first flagship Apple store, a 28,000-square-metre exclusive supermarket and much more. With so much on offer, you might not be able to do it all in one day, so why not go at your own pace and admire the futuristic design and atmosphere while you’re here? The glass and steel exterior is courtesy of Pelli Clarke Pelli Architects, and the décor of what looks like gigantic white space cubes is Benoy Architects’ concept of cool, urban sophistication.

Ifc is a shopper’s paradise not only for its perfect blend of shopping and leisure, but above all because it is home to the flagship stores of over 25 major brands, including Chanel, Hermès, Gucci, Prada, Dior, Cartier, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tiffany & Co., Dunhill and Burberry.

While you’d only get mediocre mall food at most shopping centres, the culinary lineup at ifc is sure to leave you satisfied. With Morton’s of Chicago Bar & The Steakhouse, Michelin-starred Lee Garden, authentic Italian Bar & Grill Isola and 50 other venues to choose from, you are truly spoilt for choice.

Reel ???
Plaza 66, 1266 Nanjing West Road, Jin’an District, Shanghai
恒隆广场，上海市静安区南京西路1266号
电话 ： +86 21 3210 4566

ifc Shanghai, 8 Century Avenue, Pudong New District, Shanghai
上海ifc商场，上海市浦东新区陆家嘴世纪大道8号
电话：+86 21 2020 7070

The Peninsula Arcade, The Peninsula Shanghai, 32 Zhongshang Dong Yi road, Huangpu District, Shanghai
上海半岛酒店精品廊，上海市中山东一路32号
电话 ：+86 21 2327 8888
 

Not only did Montblanc Villeret keep the old equipment, they still use it. From the massive presses that stamp the base plates right through to tiny devices used to calibrate the balance spring, the machines have a definitely period look about them, with the original nameplates, battered paint, and all those tiny marks and patina that come from decades of constant operation.

Montblanc Villeret is not only surviving, it's thriving. It produces only about 200 watches per year, but these exert a powerful attraction on collectors who are willing to order and pay for a watch that they may only see 18 months later. Prices up to about €230,000 make them objects for people who recognize and appreciate superbly-crafted timepieces. At the moment, the spotlight is on a watch called Metamorphosis, an amazing piece of micro-technology developed by the Institut Minerva de Recherche en Haute Horlogerie, led by Demetrio Cabiddu at the Manufacture, according to a concept by two young watchmakers who presented their idea to the Institut. Johnny Girardin and Franck Orny wanted to build a watch like a Transformers robot, one that would magically change into something else at the touch of a button. It has seen the light only recently, after four years' development.

To see it in action is so incredible that it's hard to describe. (Click below to watch a video).

The watch, shaped like a teardrop, has a top dial for the hours, a retrograde centre minutes hand, and a large centre seconds hand. A subdial at the 6 o'clock position indicates the date. When the slide on the side of the watch is pressed, the lower subdial deconstructs, and disappears into the structure. Another dial appears to replace it, the minute counter of the chronograph. A similar transformation occurs on the top dial, changing the watch's functions from time-date to time-chronograph. Perhaps the most mind-boggling thing is that the functions continue to operate during transformation, so that, if you start the chronograph while the watch is in chronograph mode, and then change it to time-date mode, and then back to chrono, it will still be obediently measuring the time from when you first activated it. The conversion process takes about 15 seconds, and takes a lot of components. In total there are 780 in the case.

This watch is part of the 'Timewriter' project, in which Montblanc Villeret invites young watchmakers to present original and innovative ideas for development. In the case of Metamorphosis, not only were Girardin and Orny paid during the many months that they worked at the Manufacture on the development of their concept, they will also retain ownership of the patents granted to the watch.

Another Timewriter project watch is the Bi-Fréquence watch, a mechanical watch that follows the Minerva traditions for chronography – the brand was one of the first to create a stopwatch capable of 1/100th of a second accuracy – and can measure an interval of time to an accuracy of one-thousandth of a second. The question that people are asking now is: what will the next Timewriter be?

Meanwhile, at Montblanc Villeret, the Manufacture continues to make its classic watches, often based on 155 years of horological history. It also repairs old Minerva watches that are occasionally returned for servicing. When I was visiting the factory, I saw a scene that remains deeply engrained in my memory: a young man wearing bumster low-waistline jeans and a hoodie top, dedicating rapt attention to a gold movement perhaps 60 years old while measuring its accuracy after having finished his work on it. The brand has successfully achieved a change in generation while retaining its reputation at the peak of traditional watchmaking.

Production phases include traditional processes and new features. The composition of the wire used for balance springs is top secret, and likewise the procedures used to create a flat-section wire, to be used for the balance spring, that is thinner than a human hair. The final procedure of linking the balance spring to the balance wheel involves harmonizing the spring's natural oscillation frequency to a reference spring underneath, purely by sight, and by changing the length of the wire. The watchmaker then folds the extremity of the wire up and over – the Philips curve – to create the notoriously difficult Breguet balance spring.

Another delicate component is the 'double infinity' tourbillon bridge, whose many internal angles require hours of patient work to bring to perfection. The craftspeople search for their own gentian wood in the local countryside. This plant has a woody stem that is exactly the right consistency to polish the metal without scratching it. Little longer than a fingernail and much narrower, the tourbillon bridge alone takes 40 hours' work to bring it to perfection. Though each one is exactly the same, each watchmaker has his or her own individual style, and so when a watch is returned for servicing, they can recognize who it was who made that particular bridge.

The final assembly of a Montblanc Villeret watch is, like all other operations, performed by hand. While a relatively simple calibre can be assembled in a few days, a complication movement could take even longer, up to six weeks or even more. Perhaps it is no surprise that in Shanghai, a customer said to Demetrio Cabiddu, "You know, considering all the years of development, and the work that goes into your watches, the prices are really too low."

But Montblanc Villeret is about preserving watchmaking tradition rather than about making profits. The watches are for a select group of collectors and investors, and the watchmakers are there because they enjoy it. Above all Monsieur Cabiddu, who, when he is not travelling the world to present his unique products, supervises day-to-day work at the Manufacture. Sometimes he takes work home. "Last weekend, I decided to wear a watch for a few days, one that had been completed and had passed all the tests. I even had it on while I was chopping some wood, just to make sure that everything was perfect." The idea of wearing a €230,000 watch while wielding an axe seems like an audacious move to me, but perhaps it's just the 'hand-made' concept applied to quality control. The watch passed this final test with flying colours, of course.

Read more:

The Montblanc Régulateur Nautique
Demetrio Cabiddu - Exploring the realms of time
The Montblanc Princess Grace de Monaco collection

Shop
Over the past few years Mount Street has become a major fashion hub - like a boutique version of Bond Street or Sloane Street, where a plethora of homegrown and international designers have launched flagships - from Loewe to Lanvin, Christian Louboutin to Nicholas Kirkwood and Roland Mouret to Balenciaga; Oscar de la Renta joined the fashion templar in autumn, followed by Celine this winter. You'll also find the world's only store from Mackintosh (of the inventors great British waterproof). To the end of the street and across the road, don't miss the magnificent Grade II* listed gentleman's emporium Bourdon House, Alfred Dunhill's London Home, with its restaurant, humidor, barber and cinema.

Groom
It's easy to emerge from an afternoon on Mount Street looking even more fabulous than when you arrived. Shop at natural apothecary Aesop, who opened their first London store in Mount Street (they now count six across the capital) in 2008. Designed by Ilse Crawford, it was one of the first international brands to settle on the strip. Celebrity hairdressers Nicky Clarke and Jo Hansford specialise in cuts and colouring, respectively, and there's even a specialist 'hair enhancement' clinic, Mark Glenn, for those seeking a more lustrous mane. If you are in search of indulgence, why not book in for a decadent Eastern healing ritual at the UK's only Aman spa or a short, back and sides at the Barber in Bourdon House?

Eat & Drink
Fine foods and decadent dining have long featured amid Mount Street's allure. Seafood restaurant Scott's has been seducing the A-list for decades (should you wish to join them, it's essential to book ahead).Harry's Bar and the George Club are veterans among London's members' club scene and The Connaught Bar and Mount Street Deli are among London's most fashionable and discreet destinations. Don't forget to take a butcher’s at specialist meat purveyors Allens of Mayfair, on this site since 1887. The historic interiors draw tourists away from the well-trodden trail, and Tuesday and Wednesday's butchery classes are a cut above. Wine specialists Jeraboams will help you source that must-have vintage.

See
Mount Street and its surrounds are home to around a dozen independent art and antiques specialists. If you are looking for somewhere to help you source work from Europe and overseas, or just fancy an afternoon browsing an innovative and intriguing selection of paintings and objets d'art, there's plenty to keep you inspired. You'll find the Rich Gallery, Mount Street Gallery, Pym's Gallery and Modern Collections on Mount Street, while around the corner on Davies Street GimpelFils is among London's most respected independent galleries - watch out for artists Shana Mouton and Seamus Harahan this autumn. You just can't miss the striking water feature 'Silence' by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, on Carlos Place outside the Connaught Hotel.

Further reading on London's Top Retail Experiences

The Special Edition Tramezza collection brings these ideals front and centre presenting a line of seven shoe styles that are naturally hand stained in your choice of four colours and finished in full grain alligator and calfskin. Hearing the words “handmade in Italy,” is enough to make the gents’ eyes light up, but that’s not all these kicks have going for them. We learned that it takes three weeks and 260 precise phases of workmanship to make one pair. Thanks to the signature Ferragamo quality standards, there is also a guarantee of longevity and durability, not to mention impressive features like flexibility and instep memory, in which the shoe moulds to the owner’s foot, in a process that is activated by natural heat.

And if the shoes don’t provide enough bragging rights for the man who thought he had everything, there is also a collection of double Gancino belts to coordinate with them. Hand-wrought according to strict Florentine artisan tradition, these belts are cut, forged and finished to ensure a permanent colour and high quality level. Because this is a custom process performed by hand, you can choose to combine different metals and buckle styles with your selection of fine material be it calf, crocodile or ostrich leather.

The finishing touches to this package include soft Alcantara travel cases, special cleaning cloths and a dedicated passport guide that outlines the important details of the collection providing the owner with intel on how the product has been made as well as care instructions on how to keep them at their best.

Salvatore Ferragamo worldwide boutiques

The building itself is a classical Swiss country house, and inside, it's all timber panelling, creaky floors, and a gigantic traditional ceramic stove. "I was pleased to be able to buy this Mairie," said Christophe Claret, "because it has the same detail and precision as my watches. It's good to have a place where I can welcome people in the right atmosphere. A combination of tradition and innovation."

Rather like the DualTow, an incredible watch that unites classic watchmaking with one of Claret's most dramatic inventions: hours and minutes that are indicated not by hands, but by two rubber belts, one on each side of the watch. In the NightEagle version, the geometry of the case, along with the predominantly black colour, makes it futuristic, rather like the Stealth spy plane. "How did you get the idea for the DualTow?" I asked Christophe.

But he had already moved on. He is a whirlwind of energy. As he took me through the building, from one spotless laboratory to another, he described everything with infectious enthusiasm. It felt like being inside a gigantic watch, the rooms like the different parts of a movement, operating in perfect coordination to produce immaculate results. A futuristic suspended walkway leads to a modern wing where everything is made. The complexity of the Manufacture is incredible. From 3D-design right through to quality control, virtually everything is done in-house.

"In this office, we work on the movies that we make to present our watches. We use special software, the same as that used for Avatar. We're now working on the new movies that will be presented in Basel. Just two and a half minutes of movie takes 4 months work, it's crazy!"

In the prototyping office, there is a quick camera. It operates at 100,000 frames per second, and it's used to check all the microscopic movements that take place inside a watch and iron out any problems. "You know how a chronometer hand returns to zero?" says Claret. "To the human eye, it looks like it swings back to zero and stops. But the quick camera shows that at zero, it oscillates back and forth a bit."

In some rooms there are some very large machines, machining parts under jets of oil, proceeding entirely automatically. A laser-cutting machine is working on a sheet of metal, tiny sparks flying up as the light beam flicks around the complex shape. Like the watches, the machine is also branded, Christophe Claret Engineering. "I like producing fine movements, but I also like producing innovative machines to make the movements. New movements mean new machines." The laser machine is impressively efficient. "A normal machine takes 25 minutes to complete a component. The laser machine does the job in 25 seconds."

The fact that Christophe Claret watches are built entirely in-house can be seen from the metal storage facilities. In one room there is enough maillechort (nickel silver) to last for the next 100 years!

In the quality control office, I watch as a machine presses the hour-setting button of the X-Trem-1, while a monitor plots a line measuring the accuracy of the process. "The button is pressed 2,000 times," says Claret, "and this sort of testing is performed for each watch before we give it the production certificate." The X-Trem-1 was the watch that sent shock waves through the industry at the 2012 BaselWorld show. It marks hours and minutes with two steel balls that hover magically inside two tubes on each side of the watch.

Another Claret speciality is the gaming watch: 21 BlackJack, and Baccara, on which you can play cards and roulette, and throw dice, as well as tell the time. Where did that idea come from?

"Just after the crash in 2008-2009, when the recession hit badly, I had a dream about the crash of 1929, which was followed by the crazy years. So I decided that I would create a crazy product for our crazy years. I thought that the crash would be just a couple of years, now we know that it's taking longer. But my choice is always to invest in new designs."

The challenge of innovation is that it takes time. "For DualTow, just perfecting the rubber belts took 17 months. Creating a new product means designing new systems, building maquettes, testing them, over and over again until it is perfect. For the people who copy us, it's easy, the problems have already been solved." And copies there are many, particularly the belt-drive watches. It's the details on Christophe Claret watches that makes them unique in any case. Such as hands made of ruby, so that they catch the light and glow. "The idea for that came from the speedometer in my car."

Crisis or no crisis, Christophe Claret watches sell well. Some markets prefer certain types of watches, others like different ones. Baccara, for example, is very popular in Hong Kong and Macau. The X-Trem-1 is popular everywhere.

What about the future? "At BaselWorld 2013 I will be presenting a lower-price product, which won't be a limited edition. We have great ambitions for this watch." At the time of the interview, I could only guess what this could be. After tours de force such as the Adagio Minute Repeater, the Westminster chime repeater, and the Orbital Tourbillon, where will he go next? Could it be something related to another of his passions, 16th century culture and the Renaissance? Or something vaguely Mediaeval, like the castle that he purchased near Besançon in France and is currently restoring?

It was actually the work on the castle that gave him another idea. "I hired a mini-excavator, and I was sitting on it, and looked down at the tracks, and thought, 'Mmm, I could put the hours on one track, the minutes on the other, that would make a crazy watch...' and that's what I did." That was DualTow, and he'd answered my question!

Read more:

Christophe Claret and the Soprano
The Baccara by Christophe Claret
Search for Christophe Claret boutiques

But Le Locle is a Unesco World heritage site. Since the 1700s, the city, along with its neighbour Le Chaux-de-Fonds, has been creating some of the finest timepieces in the world. Part of this history can be seen in a museum situated in a lovely mansion on the slopes high above the town. I had come to see the Musée d'Horlogerie at Château des Monts.

Inside the mansion, you immediately feel that you are in a very special place. Not only are you surrounded by the most beautiful antique time-pieces, but a lot of them are actually running, pendulums swinging, wheels moving, and an assortment of ticks that blend to form a sort of warm background hum. At the quarters and the hours, the air comes alive with a variety of bells and gongs, before settling back into its discreet tranquillity.

A ground floor lounge has its original furniture, with a lovely landscape painting. In a corner of this room there is a bust of Abraham-Louis Breguet, one of the most famous watchmakers of all time, born in Neuchâtel but who made his fortune in Paris.

In a small circular room, you find yourself within the workings of a watch. The component parts – many of which are so tiny that they can only be appreciated from the large-scale drawings – are displayed and explained with French captions, with translations provided on interactive screens below. It tells you exactly what each part does in the overall functioning of the watch, and it provides an overview of clock and watch history, from the first clocks made in about 1330, right up to quartz.

It also provides an indication of just how dramatic the early 1970s were for Swiss watchmaking. After having enjoyed the post-war years, when the country covered half the world's watch production, the quartz revolution was a disaster. A thousand of the 1,600 fine watch brands in Switzerland went out of business. The museum describes all this, along with the technical aspects of both mechanical and quartz timepieces.

Moving upstairs, there are rooms dedicated to 17th century French wallclocks, beautifully decorated with painted scenes and gilt carving, a striking contrast to the simplicity of the English long-case clocks from the same period displayed on the ground floor.

One of the most outstanding exhibits is a singing bird automaton, one of the three known to have been made by Blaise Bontems in about 1860. Bontems was an apprentice for a clockmaker, and was asked to restore a singing-bird snuffbox. He didn't think much of the simulated nightingale's song, and spent long hours in the forest to study the bird's call. He went on to create his own birds that sang convincingly, as well as being very realistic to look at. (The other two existing examples are in private collections. One was sold by Sotheby's in 2008 for $17,500). Below, Cage oiseau chanteur, courtesy of Museée d'horlogerie du Locle - Château des Monts, Le Locle, Switzerland (Photo G. Savini).

On the top floor, there is a fascinating overview of time in its widest sense. A 3D film provides an introduction to the measurement of time from Ancient Egypt up until recent times. Fossils illustrate the geological timescale, a blackboard with complex formulae chalked on demonstrates the complexity of Einstein's relativity, and a whole sequence of objects shows how men have been trying to measure time right from the dawn of history. There is a model of Stonehenge, clocks based on a weight slowly descending a cord, and a wide variety of sundials. One extraordinary piece is a sundial with a miniature cannon and a lens. At midday, the lens focused the sun's rays onto the cannon's touch-hole and fired a shot.

A reconstruction of an ancient workshop shows how the Swiss watchmaking tradition began: farmers who built movements as a way of making extra money in winter when there was little to do on their farms, and the evenings were long.

Above, watchmaker's bench, courtesy of the Musée d'Horlogerie du Locle - Château des Monts, Le Locle, Switzerland.

There is a lot to see, and a visit can take from an hour to the whole afternoon, depending on how closely you want to observe the pieces and read the captions. We recommend a visit to the Musée International d'Horlogerie in Le Chaux-de-Fonds, larger, housed in a stunning piece of contemporary architecture. But the period charm of the museum in Le Locle is absolutely unique.

After strolling back down into town, I took the train back down to Neuchâtel, glimpsing yet more watchmaking factories on the first part of the route from Le Locle to Le Chaux-de-Fonds: Patek Philippe, Jaquet Droz, Cartier Haute Horlogerie, Montblanc Villeret, TAG Heuer... At a certain point, we emerged from a long tunnel, and through the windows, there was this huge view over the lake, right across to the long Alpine chain, where the snowy peaks – Eiger, Wetterhorn, Jungfrau – were catching the last golden rays of the evening, glowing orange against the blue-grey sky. I tried to find a window with a clear view to take a photo, but the sun slid inexorably down and that magical instant passed. But somehow the Swiss obsession with measuring infinitesimal moments by means of beautiful timepieces made a little more sense.

Photo above: courtesy David Tesar, flickr.com

Useful information:
Musée d'Horlogerie, Route des Monts 65, Le Locle
Tel. +41 (0)32 9311 680
www.mhl-monts.ch
Open April-October, Tues-Sun, 10.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m.; November-March, Tues-Sun, 2.00 p.m.-5.00 p.m. Admission €10. Guided visits available with prior booking.

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Montblanc Régulateur Nautique

1. Tell us about the inspiration for fall 2012.

We were inspired by Wong Kar-wai’s In the Mood for Love, a gorgeously stylized romantic drama set in 1960s Hong Kong. We were thinking of the idea of a prim girl who’s under the spell of the wrong kind of guy. She’s an innocent, unaware of her own sex appeal.

2. How did that translate into an actual collection?

There are polished, proper looks in silk, tweed and chiffon with slightly subversive undertones – fitted waists, keyhole necklines and leather details. The mood carries into accessories as well, with boxy, tortoise-frame bags with brooch-like floral embellishments and spectator heels.

3. What’s one easy way women can update their look this season?

I often focus on a specific color that feels fresh. Right now I’m especially drawn to a luxe, jewel-tone green we call malachite. We have it in everything from blouses to dresses to our 797 satchel.

4. The Tory Burch website is not just about e-commerce; the Tory Blog has become its own destination. How did you come up with this approach?

We launched our website almost simultaneously with the brand. It is our largest store offering the most comprehensive assortment and is a great way to communicate directly with our customers globally. We’re very excited about the recent launch of toryburch.co.uk; it offers shipping to the entire United Kingdom, including England, Northern Ireland, Scotland and Wales. We're also shipping to Canada and Australia from our US site. The blog was created with the idea of an online magazine; it is absolutely meant to entertain and inspire.

5. What’s next for the Tory Burch brand?

The company is very young. We’re interested in new categories; Sport is one. We’re also looking forward to launching our fragrance in 2013. Most important, as we expand globally and keep communicating directly with our customers, we’ll continue to learn about what our clients all over the world want and need.

The Asian Restaurant features a stunning display of seafood and vegetables, replicating the ambience of an Asian food market, as well as an open kitchen. Specializing in Chinese and Pan Asian cuisine, the Asian Restaurant's menu includes mouthwatering dishes like King Crab with Penang sauce and Miso Black Cod.

In contrast, the Italian Restaurant is fully equipped with a wood-fire oven, impressive wine gallery, and Italian-inspired rustic décor. The menu consists of delicious Southern-Italian dishes, such as risotto, Sicilian sausage with fennel, and linguini with octopus ragout.

If you are simply looking for a place to relax with a cocktail, make sure to stop by Novikov's lounge area. Noted for their collection of Malts, Japanese Whiskies, and rums, the contemporary furnished lounge is ideal for leisure and conversation.

Situated in the heart of London, this must-visit destination is constantly booked, so make sure to make a reservation ahead of time.

With a variety of dining options, guests can choose to eat in the main dining room, an elegant private dining room called the Aspen Room, or reserve the entire restaurant via exclusive hire. Their specialized menus, such as the truffle and vegetarian menus, present an eclectic assortment of culinary masterpieces any food connoisseur will relish. In addition, The Wine Salon features a selection of the world's finest wines. Head Sommelier Alex Gilbert is available during the tasting for suggestions and information, complimented by Alyn and his kitchen team's cuisine. Make sure not to underdress and bring an appetite to this London hot spot.

Opening Hours:
Lunch: Monday to Friday 12-2.30pm
Dinner: Monday to Saturday 6pm-10.30pm

But in the face of these beautiful looks by Brioni, let's embrace this glorious colour and stand out from the crowd! Violet is perfect with black and grey, as shown by the looks below.

Read more:
Brioni brand profile

Brioni, classic Italian tailorship

Today, a new version of the Royal Oak Offshore (a new Royal Oak range that first saw the light in 1993) has been presented, the Grande Complication. A horological work of art that nonetheless continues the sporty appearance of its predecessors. It is made in titanium and ceramic, with a rubber strap.

The watch, reference 26571IO.OO.A010CA.01, is a 3-piece limited edition. Each piece is made by a single craftsperson who will dedicate over 700 hours work to the watch.

Inside the 44-millimetre titanium and ceramic case, the 648-part movement incorporates the three functions necessary to be able to describe it as a grande complication: minute repeater, split second chronograph, and perpetual calendar. The minute repeater is a system that chimes the hours, quarters and minutes when the respective pusher is pressed, with the sound produced on two gongs. The split second chronograph enables you to read intermediate times while the chronograph is still running. The perpetual calendar displays day, month and year on the subdials, and also shows the phases of the moon.

Part of the movement can be seen through the front of the dial, and a sapphire caseback displays the other side, in particular the solid gold oscillating weight that has been given a black coating. Another very contermporary touch. The weight can be customized as required.

The watch is a preview of the upcoming SIHH 2013 show.

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The Openworked Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon
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The 47 pieces comprise the iconic irregular chains, earrings, bracelets, charms and pendants. The original motifs have been increased in size, which in itself makes them more contemporary. A new material has been introduced, synthetic hydro-thermal quartz, and an old, forgotten material, marcasite, has been given new life.

The logo has also changed. The weighty pieces are still superbly crafted, but what is new is their youthful appeal. The collection was presented in Saks Fifth Avenue, New York, in September 2012, and its distribution in Europe begins in November. A new temporary store has opened in Milan specifically dedicated to the new range.

Read more about Pomellato:
Brand history

The relatively simple expedient of combining an additional 24-hour hand and a rotatable bezel made the watch capable of showing the hour in two different time zones which, it was hoped, would assist in keeping Pan-Am’s pilots on their toes when faced with the then-new phenomenon of jet lag brought about by the unusually fast transition from one side of the Atlantic to the other.

The GMT Master remains one of the most effective and popular traveller’s watches ever made - but now Rolex has introduced a new dual time model called the Sky-Dweller which features a fiendishly clever mechanism in which the rotating bezel is used to select individual functions (home time, local time, winding and date) which can then be set simply by turning the crown.

This so-called ‘Ring Command’ bezel first appeared a few years ago on the brand’s Yacht-Master II regatta watch but, in adapting the mechanism to the Sky-dweller, it has also been linked to a rather brilliant annual calendar function which requires adjustment only once a year, at the end of February.

Like all non-bejewelled Rolex models, the new Sky-Dweller is a beautifully engineered exercise in form and function, with a display that is clear and concise. It carries no fewer than 14 patents and is designed to be simple and intuitive to use as well as being rugged, reliable and, of course, effortlessly elegant.

We imagine, therefore, that when they board an aircraft, most wearers will instinctively turn left...

The 42 mm Sky-Dweller is available in 18 carat white, yellow or Everose gold from £26,290.

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ShanghART Gallery was the first and also the most prominent art gallery to be established in M50. Swiss owner Lorenz Helbling represents 40 of China’s most prominent artists, showcasing their work in international exhibitions through both nationwide shows as well as jointly with world-famous artists. Thanks to the successful collaboration between ShanghART and M50, contemporary Chinese art saw a rapid development takes place in just a decade. Now, M50 has grown into an international art space specializing in contemporary art and modern design. Over 140 ateliers, galleries, art courses and various cultural organizations operate under its roof every day, turning the Suzhou Creek peninsula into a creative hub that attracts both local and international collectors, journalists, art lovers and tourists.

Admission to M50 is free, so you can wander around wherever you like in this art playground and see China’s most avant-garde oil paintings, sculptures, photography, multimedia, installations, as well as ceramics, landscape paintings, modern furniture designs, fashion design, industrial designs and many more original works of art. You might even come across artists in their ateliers and get the opportunity to talk to them about their work. What’s worth a special mention is that M50 is also a mecca for graffiti artists from around the world. Discovering their vibrant and vivid works is often a surprising highlight for many visitors.

Though M50 has already undergone three phases of renovation, the original factory structure and its industrial feel have been kept intact. While based on M50’s new function as an art space, the renovations have created a relaxed and pleasant environment where artists can create and visitors can admire art. Today, M50 focuses on its mission of promoting 'art, creativity, life,' shaping the art industry through cultural and creative activities that reach far beyond the walls of its unique space.

M50
上海市普陀区莫干山路50号
50 Moganshan Road, Shanghai 200060
电话 / Tel. +86 21 6266 0963

 Read more:

Shanghai and its Museum of Contemporary Art
Art in the world of luxury

She began life as a drawing, an invitation to a party, her magnificent coat inspiring the faces of watches, vanity cases and tiaras. She became an obsession, a fascination imbued on platinum, then developed into full-volume majesty, diamonds lining the feline’s lithe muscles and pose. She is bottled into a scent that captures the panther’s freedom, spirit and lure. She became the soulmate to femmes fatales, women of substance, power and beauty - Wallis Simpson, Barbara Hutton and Princess Nina Aga Khan - accompanying them to elegant balls and intimate soirées. She defined Jean Toussant, nicknamed La Panthère, her magnificent pelt gracing the Cartier Creative Director’s Parisian apartment’s floors.

She resides in the bestiere, the queen of all the animals, prowling among diamond-lined canopies of orchids and leaves. She frightens the flamingos, and is more regal than the crocodile, mightier than the serpent and more rarefied than the tiger. The panther reigns supreme in Cartier’s glittering menagerie: she is its ruler, spirit and soul.

“It is an expression of femininity,” says François Le Troquer, Managing Director of Cartier, “Still an icon, still a living legend. What is unique about Cartier is the way we can create a panther, so that when you look at it, you almost see the animal ready to jump.”

Watch the short film “L’Odyssée de Cartier” and read our exclusive interview with Executive Chairman of Cartier UK Arnaud Bamberger and Managing Director Cartier UK François Le Troquer

For example, the model shown above is reference 8908BB/5T/J70 D0DD, in white 18-carat white gold, with a fluted caseband, and a white gold thread bracelet. The dial has a power reserve indicator at the top, and small seconds at 7 o'clock. The dial itself is in engine-turned silvered gold and black Tahiti mother-of-pearl. The self-winding Calibre 537 DRL1.40 movement provides 40 hours of power reserve, and it can be observed through the sapphire caseback.

The Cammea watch (below) in white gold is more decorative, with a dial hand-carved from a seashell into a sunflower pattern. Each piece is unique. The bezel is set with 40 diamonds, with a briolette diamond set into the crown. The automatic movement provides 40 hours power reserve. The artistry of the sculpture is accompanied by refined horology, visible through the sapphire caseback.

The reference 8967ST/58/986 (below) is a contemporary version of a classic design, with fluting on the case sides, and a white mother-of-pearl dial bearing the hand-written Brequet signature and number. The stylish dial design features two giant numerals, and original blued steel hands. The self-winding movement has a gold oscillating weight.

This reference (below), 8939BB/6D/864 DD0D, is ideal for the most important society events, in white gold set with 91 baguette diamonds, with indices in natural mother-of-pearl. A single pear-cut diamond is set at 6 o'clock.

Likewise, this essay in intertwined gold, 8928BA/51/J20 DD00, is a glittering piece of haute joaillerie, with 139 diamonds on bezel, the rim of the dial and the ball-lug holding the strap. The Roman numerals beautifully expand the circular eccentrically-positioned dial to fill the entire area available. The natural mother-of-pearl dial provides a translucent effect of depth. The oscillating weight of the self-winding movement is in 950 platinum, visible through the sapphire caseback.

Shades of Dalí in this piece, 8918BR/58/864 D00D, in which the numerals swerve sensually around the dial, starting from the pear-cut diamond at 6 o'clock. A testimony to the value and tradition of Breguet is the fact that this piece incorporates "Breguet" numerals and "Breguet" hands - instantly recognizable visual motifs that are part of watchmaking history.

The Reine de Naples Reference 8908BB/V2/864 D00D is haute horlogerie for women, a beautiful composition in which content on the dial – time, small seconds, power reserves, phases of the moon – is artfully contrasted with empty space in the form of blue natural mother-of-pearl. The bezel is set with 128 diamonds, but it is the horological brilliance that takes centre-stage.

And then, a Grande Complication. Reference 8978BB/58/974 D00D is deceptively simple as regards the appearance of the dial, with blued steel Breguet hands on a white mother-of-pearl base, framed by a bezel set with about 3 carats of 30 diamonds. The piece incorporates an hour repeater complication, in which the watch strikes the hours on the hour, with two strikes repeated three times. The function can be activated and deactivated by means of the push-piece at 2 o'clock, and its status is shown by a diamond in a small circular window at 12 o'clock. Two elegantly-shaped windows enable the striking mechanism to be seen. The watch becomes an audio-visual performance.

Reference 8909BB/VD/J29 DDD0 is a tribute to decoration, with bezel and caseband paved with 86 baguettes, and a bracelet set with 650 diamonds and 11 sapphire cabochons. An amazing jewellery tour-de-force, matched by the perfection of the dial in blue mother-of-pearl with hours and minutes on a circular dial at the base, and phases of the moon and power reserve at the top.

References 8908BB/5T/J70 D0DD (below) and 8928BB/51/J60 DD0D (the last image) show just how much the character of a watch can be changed by design. In the first, the bracelet in white gold thread provides a slightly Mediaeval appearance, while in the second, the combination of bluish mother-of-pearl and the Charleston bracelet in white gold creates a feel that is in part gloriously 1920s, and in part unashamedly Rastafarian.

All in all, a series of contemporary masterpieces. The only problem is deciding which.

Read more:
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Morning/breakfast

"After an uplifting run in the Luxembourg gardens, I love to stop for an espresso at the shaded garden café Pavillion de la Fontaine. If it’s a Tuesday, Friday, or Sunday morning, I love to walk through the ever-alluring Raspail Market. This outdoor food market is full of the freshest seasonal produce. By mid-morning I’m usually looking for a snack. I adore Hugo & Victor’s state-of-the-art flaky pain au chocolat, and at Patisserie de Rêves their tarte au citron is a dream. 

Pavillion de la Fontaine
Luxembourg Gardens, Entrance on Rue de Medicis
Tel. +33 (0)1 4371 0016

Raspail open-air market (below)
Boulevard Raspail between Rue du Cherche-Midi & Rue de Rennes, 8.30 a.m.-1.00 p.m.

Hugo & Victor
40 Boulevard Raspail, 75007 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4439 9773

Patisserie des Rêves
93 Rue du Bac, 75007 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4284 0082

Afternoon/lunch

By lunchtime, I always like to try Bar de la Croix Rouge for their famed Assiette Saint Germain, an open-faced sandwich of perfectly toasted Poilâne bread lightly spread with butter, then topped with ultra-thin slices of the most delicious rare-roasted beef. I like to wander into a couple of Saint Germain’s finest cooking or food shops late in the afternoon. I feel that all cooking and entertaining should be aesthetic experiences, so I love to surround myself with beautiful and practical objects. My favourite shops to check out are Siecle or Aude Clément’s Au Bain Marie for their latest modern and antique objects for the kitchen and table.

Pour déjeuner, j'aime le Bar de la Croix Rouge et sa célèbre Assiette Saint Germain, tartines de pain Poilâne légèrement beurrées et fines tranches de rosbif saignant, un vrai délice. En fin d'après midi, j'aime flâner dans les meilleurs magasins de cuisine ou traiteurs de Saint Germain. J'estime que cuisiner et recevoir se doivent d'être des expériences esthétiques, alors j'adore m'entourer d'objets beaux et pratiques. Mes magasins préférés sont Siècle ou Au Bain Marie d'Aude Clément qui proposent les derniers objets modernes ou chinés pour la cuisine et la table.

Bar de la Croix Rouge
2 Carrefour de la Croix Rouge, 75006 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4548 0645

Siecle
24 Rue du Bac, 75007 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4703 4803

Au Bain Marie
56 Rue de l’Université, 75007 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4271 0869

Evening/dinner

When dinner finally rolls around, you can never go wrong with a dinner at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Saint-Germain for anything that the chef is offering that day. Another new restaurant I love for dinner is Semilla for some of the best seared beef in town, as well as grilled shitake mushrooms, or Ze Kitchen Galerie where chef William Ledeuil creates the most perfect fusion cuisine, combing classic French techniques with subtle, masterly touches of Asian ingredients.

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Saint-Germain
5 Rue Montalembert, 75007 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4222 5656

Ze Kitchen Galerie
4 Rue des Grands Augustins, 75006 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4432 0032

Click here to read more wine and food stories
 

The watch also features a precision adjustment system, in which small seconds can be reset using a push-piece at 2 o'clock that uses the flyback system to reset seconds. What happens is that the small seconds hand flicks back to zero without this stopping its operation. This allows absolute accuracy in setting the watch.

The watch is powered by the Calibre 382 movement, with a power reserve of 50 hours. It has 460 parts (in addition to the Sphérotourbillon's 105 parts), and two mainspring barrels, one that powers the tourbillon, and one for the overall watch functions. The dial is fairly complex, with a time display, date display just outside the time, two power reserve indicators labelled Duometre and Spherotourbillon, and a second time-zone in 24-hour format. But it is also clear, with everything helpfully labelled, and a white background colour that sets off the gold and black detailing to perfection. Hour and minute hands are of the leaf type, while small seconds is a baton-type hand with pear-shaped counterweight, in blued steel.

All this is housed in an 18-carat pink gold case, 42 millimetres in diameter, 14.1 millimetres thick, with sapphire crystals on the front and caseback. The strap is in hand-sewn crocodile with an 18-carat pink gold buckle. The watch reference is 605 25 20.

SIAR, the Salón Internacional Alta Relojería México, is the largest high-end watch show in Latin America. It was held in Mexico City, from 2 to 4 October 2012.

A glance at the venerable peaks and valleys is awe-inspiring for tourists, but even locals are constantly enchanted by the peerless beauty of the Bavarian Alps. In the winter, snow transforms this range of mountains, crowned by the 2,962-metre Zugspitze, into a fairytale panorama. The many skiing areas, including the Lake Tegernsee Valley, Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the Chiemgau Alps, are a wonderful playground for Alpine and cross-country skiers and snowboarders alike. Skiing on Germany’s only glacier on the Zugspitze is possible for a full seven months every year.

This natural beauty spot – enveloped in pristine air – is wonderfully relaxing. But if you’re looking for something extra special, you might want to try a little deceleration and regeneration, following a day on the slopes, at one of the numerous wellness facilities here. The scenic Rottach-Egern at Lake Tegernsee is, one could say, the cradle of wellness in Europe. A pioneer in the application of holistic medicinal approaches, Gertraud Gruber set up the continent’s first wellness farm here in 1955. In recognition of her remarkable achievements, the privately-operated 5-star superior Hotel Egerner Höfe – along with others – offers cosmetic treatments based on Gertraud Gruber’s insights. The hotel spa also provides a whole range of extra services and pampering. Park Hotel Egerner Höfe is also exquisitely prepared to meet your culinary yearnings. Gourmets will be delighted with the Michelin-starred creations at the Dichterstub’n and popular regional delicacies are served, for example, at Restaurant Hubertusstüberl. The backdrop enhanced by the gorgeous Lake Tegernsee and its valley is yet another point in favour of this area. Below, the Spa at Hotel Egerner Höfe.

About an hour’s drive to the West lies the peaceful town of Elmau. Its location at the foot of the imposing Wetterstein range makes it ideal as a starting-point for a wintry excursion into the heart of nature. Luxury hotel Schloss Elmau is the hotel of choice. Its Schloss Elmau Winter Sports Experience package includes individual and group courses for various winter sports activities. All of your needs pertaining to sporting gear rentals are handled by the Sport Concierge Team. Moreover, this outstanding hotel has a unique spa landscape that is unparallelled the world over with regard to size and diversity. A stay in the idyllic Elmau is always an unforgettable highlight of any trip. Below, Schloss Elmau.

What would Bavaria be without Neuschwanstein Castle? Probably Germany’s most famous building, it is nestled in the foothills of the Alps and it offers a stunning view that was much loved by the castle’s former resident, King Ludwig II of Bavaria. No other castle in the world embodies expresses romanticism better than this fascinating construction. It is definitely worth a visit.

The next stop takes us to Munich - the fairytale king’s place of birth. An excursion to the Bavarian capital offers an exciting contrast to pure nature. Munich is chic and cosmopolitan, and at the same time it is strongly tied to its traditions. These contrasts are what make the state capital so interesting. The luxury boutiques of well-known designers are strung along Munich’s magnificent thoroughfare Maximilianstrasse like pearls on a necklace. A shopping experience with everything the heart desires! Below, Maximilianstrasse.

Munich’s wide-ranging cultural scene also draws many visitors to this city. The National Theatre at Max-Joseph Square, whose spectacular architectural style is reminiscent of a Greek temple, houses the Bavarian State Opera and the Bavarian State Ballet. Its stage extends over 2,500 square metres and it is the third largest of its kind in the world. The audience can enjoy fabulous productions that benefit from the theatre's superb acoustics.

Nevertheless, Munich’s vast art museum landscape, which offers wonderful collections from every epoch, should also be mentioned. A recent addition to the high-calibre art assemblage is Brandhorst Museum. Opened in 2009, it features the extensive private collection of Mr. and Mrs. Brandhorst, including works by Andy Warhol, Damien Hirst and Gerhard Richter – to name just a few of the major artists. Special emphasis is placed on contemporary art, notably on American artist Cy Twombly. A large part of his oeuvre forms the very heart of this museum, whose fascinating and colourful façade is visible from a distance. Below, Museum Brandhorst, Munich.

Apart from Munich’s wealth of art and culture, the city also scores well on the international bar and nightlife charts. Enjoy high-spirited, rollicking nights on the town.

Bavaria has a reputation for skilfully combining the contemporary age, innovation and cutting-edge technology with tradition, individuality and a strong sense of belonging on the part of the local community. This is an extraordinarily enticing combination that attracts millions of visitors, whatever their tastes, and it also ensures a high quality of life for the residents.

Below, Kirche St. Coloman.

Click here to read more travel articles

The store has a total area of 800 square metres, and it is the first Burberry flagship store dedicated totally to women's collections in the Burberry Prorsum and Burberry London ranges (plus accessories, sunglasses, watches and fragrance). The store concept developed by Christopher Bailey is based on British materials and themes, in marble, chrome and bronze, and it recalls the Regent Street flagship store in London.

The Milan store has a Burberry Retail Theatre, a 3x3 metre video wall that can screen corporate content streamed directly from the Burberry headquarters in London.

The store is open every day from 10.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m.
Click here to see the location on a map.

Asia Argento and Christopher Bailey:

Chiara Ferragni:

Eros Galbiati:

Giorgia Surina:

Nicolas Vaporidis:

Rory Cottam, Burberry Acoustic artist, in his DJ set

Read more:
Burberry Britain watch

Guests at Daniel Galvin at Corinthia Hotel London are welcomed with a glass of Laurent-Perrier champagne and then begin their beauty consultation, looking at their personal style and the look that they need for the occasion. Often, people understand what they are aiming for in terms of stars that they have seen at the cinema, and so there is a digital library with over 100 films that they can use for inspiration. To enable you to truly feel the part, the location's superb interiors include lighting technology that re-creates a film set atmosphere. For the film stars amongst you, the equipment includes Skype links to TV screens so that when visiting actresses are in town, their directors can instruct the hairdressers and make-up artists at The Red Carpet via live video link, telling them exactly how they want the look to work.

Daniel Galvin says, "Hair is a woman's ultimate beauty asset. It's the only thing that she never takes off." In fact, hair care is a fundamental part of the Red Carpet Make-Over. Guests receive a conditioning treatment to create the red carpet shine, followed by an appropriate blow dry and finish, by Daniel Galvin hair specialists. Staff include a manicurist, while there is a complete food and drinks menu available. Enjoy moments of relaxation with the movie library.

The Red Carpet is the latest innovation in Daniel Galvin's long and glittering hair styling career. He has been a hairdresser for the whole of his life, following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather. In the 1960s, Daniel was the first hair stylist to realize that hair colour could be creative rather than just functional. He developed his famous 'crazy colours,' and later worked on the concept of hair colours for an absolutely natural appearance, reintroducing henna in combination with other natural ingredients such as coffee, lemon, egg yolk and hot red wine. He also pioneered the idea of considering eye colour and skin tone when planning hair tone. He has worked in cinema, and introduced professional hair colour services to Japan and the Far East. In 2006, HM the Queen awarded him an OBE for his contribution to hair colour and the hair dressing industry.

The Red Carpet by Daniel Galvin is available exclusively at Corinthia Hotel London. The basic package includes exclusive use of the Daniel Galvin Ultimate Make-Over Room, a personalized hair consultation, deep conditioning treatment, red carpet blow dry, finish and manicure, and a glass of Laurent-Perrier champagne. The Red Carpet is available by appointment from Monday to Saturday, 8.00 a.m. to 8.00 p.m., until 31 March 2013. For bookings, call Daniel Galvin at Corinthia Hotel London, +44 (0)20 7321 3060, or write to daniel.galvin@corinthia.com

Below, Corinthia Hotel London

Facilites at the ESPA life spa within the hotel:

Read more about the Corinthia Hotel, London

The Bird Repeater is the latest in this heritage. Watch the video below – well worth it, it's very beautiful – to see the birds in action. The complex mechanism that powers these movement is accompanied by another complication, the minute repeater. Pressing the pushbutton makes the watch strike the hours, quarters and minutes, while also activating the animation.

The watch is powered by the Jaquet Droz RMA88 hand-wound mechanical movement, with a single barrel, providing a 48-hour power reserve and providing hour and minute indications on the off-centred black onyx dial. The case is in 18-carat gold, not surprisingly fairly large at 47 mm diameter and 18 mm thickness. The watch is a limited edition, with serial number engraved on the caseback: just 16 pieces, each costing about €361,500 (red gold) or €378,000 (white gold and diamonds). Black alligator strap.

The dial is hand-painted, with a Swiss river scene, and a waterfall effect created by a spinning disc. The bluetits are modelled in relief, together with the nest, chicks and hatching egg. In particular, the nest deserves a special commendation for the illusory perspective, creating an effect of depth in a thickness of just a few millimetres, and by means of the differentiated thickness of the twigs. The animation incorporates eight mechanisms operating in sequence. No mechanical whistles: the only sound is provided by the gongs and hammers that can be seen through the sapphire caseback.
All in all, a remarkable tour de force, comparable to Van Cleef & Arpels' Poetic Wish watches.

Below, detail of the painted part of the dial:

The waterfall is created by a spinning disc:

Hand-decorating the dial:

Detail of the complete dial, at the moment of hatching:

Another historical bird clock made by Jaquet Droz:

More info from the company website

Click below to watch the video

Read more:
A Jaquet Droz pocket watch

Click here to read more watch articles

Read more:
Sailing watches
The Portuguese Tourbillon
Top dress watches

In the 1960s, aerospace physicist Dr. Max Huber was burned during a laboratory accident, and he began conducting personal research in order to help his skin recover. He was particularly interested in Sea Kelp, a seaweed with great nutrient properties, and a remarkable capability of retaining moisture. Over the course of 12 years, 6,000 experiments were performed, leading to the so-called Miracle Broth™, containing a wealth of nutrients. This became the basic ingredient of Crème de la Mer, the first product launched by La Mer.

Moisturizing Soft Cream

Today, La Mer has launched its Moisturizing Soft Cream, a new formula that provides the intense benefits of Crème de la Mer in a soft and silky texture. Its Moisturizing Spheres enable the product to reach the deeper layers of the skin, restoring optimum moisture levels and increasing the skin's natural elasticity and resilience. Clinical tests have shown that moisturization levels are enhanced immediately, while overall skin tone is visibly improved after eight weeks, becoming brighter, younger and more glowing.

The Moisturizing Spheres in The Moisturizing Soft Cream are a microstructural invention in which the lipidic phase of the Miracle Broth is linked to the aqueous phase of Lime Tea Extract, by means of a series of molecular bonds, to create a cream with a remarkably velvety texture. During application, the molecular bonds are released, and the active ingredients are free to be absorbed rapidly into the skin, releasing powerful anti-oxidants and restoring the skin's moisture balance.

Miracle Broth attains its remarkable results on the skin by means of its nutrient ingredients, along with other pure organic substances such as vitamins C, E and B12, and the essential oils of citrus fruits, eucalyptus and alfalfa. In the case of reddened skin, the product calms irritation and allays inflammation.

Lime Tea Extract is one of the original ingredients that Max Huber included in the first Crème de la Mer. It is the perfect complement to Miracle Broth, with a high concentration of anti-oxidants. It acts by neutralizing free radicals to protect the skin from external stress.

The new product is easy to use. Just apply a small quantity to the skin, and massage gently.

The product range comprises The Moisturizing Soft Cream, The Moisturizing Gel Cream (refreshing and ideal for warm climates), the Moisturizing Lotion (with a fluid formula), and the the Oil Absorbing Lotion. The Moisturizing Soft Cream is on sale at €136.00 for 30 ml, and €244.00 for 60 ml.

Read more:

La Mer Eye Balm Intense
10 creams to turn back time
Luxury skincare products

Click here to find La Mer boutiques in Italy

Composed using only pure, natural ingredients, his scents generally cultivate unisex appeal and are conceived as a tribute to the classic French “Art of Perfume”. James Heeley’s blends have the power to evoke an image, reminiscence, emotion or sense of desire. “Esprit du Tigre”, “Sel Marin” or “Cardinal” – each of the altogether eleven eau de parfums is unique, individualistic and in part even eccentric, though invariably in a very discreet way. Heeley’s scents are clear-cut and balanced to perfection; they are as elegant as they are timeless. And they are always about style and attitude.

James Heeley’s own passion serves as the foundation for these expressive fragrances, which inspire moments that touch us both aesthetically and emotionally and also have the uncanny ability to decelerate the harried soul. James Heeley is a consummate virtuoso in conveying the language of scent to the wearer’s body, thus unfurling the spirit, the heart and the senses. Absolutely electrifying!

Distributors of James Heeley's perfumes in Germany:

Heeley fragrances are available here:

Quartier 206
Friedrichstraße 71
10117 Berlin
Tel. +49 (0)30 2094 6800

Apropos –The Concept Store
Mittelstraße 12

50672 Cologne
Tel. +49 (0)221 2725 190

Parfümerie Schnitzler at SEVENS
Königsallee 56
40212 Düsseldorf
Tel. +49 (0)211 370 406

Harald Lubner
Feinste Düfte & Seifen
Große Bleichen 23
20354 Hamburg
Tel. +49 (0)40 3571 5455

Parfümerie Brückner-Bublitz
Weinstraße/Marienplatz 8
80331 Munich
Tel. +49 (0)89 223 874

Rindermarkt 1
Tel. +49 (0)89 263 181
80331 Munich

The shows are accompanied by a new product, the Asia lace-up shoe. This is a foretaste of the women's spring/summer 2013 collection, and it is made in three colours considered lucky in Chinese culture: red, pink and burgundy.

The Hong Kong exhibition opened on 10 October in the Fratelli Rossetti boutique in the Hong Kong ifc mall, while the Shanghai show opened on 12 October 2012 at the Plaza 66 boutique (shown in the photo below).

Far Eastern actor and fashion icon Shawn Yue was guest of honour at both the inaugural events. On the two occasions, he wore the brand's iconic show Brera, a tasselled loafer. The version of this shoe that he presented was an exclusive preview of products made using a new technique for the hand-application of colour.

The Hong Kong show at ifc mall will run until 24 October 2012. The Shanghai show at Plaza 66 will run until 26 October 2012. The touring museum will then move on to New York, and in particular the Fratelli Rossetti boutique on Madison Avenue.

Diego, Dario and Luca Rossetti said, "We have always cherished the historical pieces in our company archives. Today we have decided to put this part of our heritage on display to the world, because we are aware that these models have helped shape Italian fashion history."

In the photo below, the Magenta boot, a product dating back to the 1960s

Below, Luca, Diego and Dario Rossetti in a photo by Giovanni Gastel

Below, guests and press at the show's inauguration

Below, a Fratelli Rossetti craftsperson at work during the show

Click here to find Fratelli Rossetti boutiques worldwide

It is set in a case with Genta's characteristic multiple facets that provide a sense of depth, visual interest and solidity. The octagonal bezel morphs step by machined step into the lugs that hold the alligator strap. The Octo is made in two versions, in steel or pink gold, and the dial transmits a sense of no-nonsense toughness, with its large baton hour markers beautifully cut and finished.

The Bulgari approach to watches in a way mirrors that adopted by Montblanc: the acquisition of existing specialist companies so that they have direct access to movement design and production.

The steel Octo retails at about €7,300, while the pink gold version costs about €21,800.

In the photos below, stages in making the watches. Below, bezel polishing:

Below, case assembly:

Case milling:

Case milling:

Index fitting:

Movement assembly:

Click here to read more watch stories

This contribution by writer Alain de Botton to the Mulberry Brilliant Britain project is one of the thousand interesting snippets included in the guide, which is online at www.brilliantbritainguide.com. In a year that has seen several momentous British celebrations – principally the Olympics and the Jubilee – Mulberry has done some research to provide visibility to the unsung heroes, craftsmanship traditions, home cooking, art and science, and hidden talents. The result is a fascinating read. Did you know that the earliest wedding cake was made of oysters, pine kernels, bacon, cockscombs and other unspeakable animal ingredients? Or that a 900-year old manor house in Gloucestershire is said to be home to at least four ghosts, one of which was a Queen?

The guide is divided into categories, from architecture to stage and screen, with a special section of Brilliant Friends, personalities who have contributed to the guide with their own ideas on what makes Britain great. Singer and songwriter Eliza Doolittle says that it's British summers... that one week when the sun shines and transforms the country into a kingdom of sunbathers, albeit very briefly. Jane Bruton, editor in chief of Grazie, says it's pubs, while blogger Emily Johnston says it's Pimms served by the bucket load in summer. Model Pixie Geldof highlights British people's GSOH.

A map of the country helps locate the Brilliant Britain nominations. It looks like London is leading at the moment... hey, at last I have an opportunity to put Hemingstone on the map! (That's my home village).

It's an interactive project. Anyone can put forward their nomination to what makes Britain brilliant, with a photo and brief description. By participating, you'll also have the chance to win a limited edition Union Jack Bayswater bag filled with loads of British treats. Here is an example: Pawel Kolodynski proposed the Great Gardens of Cornwall.

The website went live on 8 October 2012, while edited highlights have been collected into a printed booklet, which will be launched in Mulberry stores in the UK and Europe in October, and later in the United States.

It's a fascinating read, highly recommended!

More about Mulberry:
Mulberry, global luxury brand rooted deep in English tradition
Mulberry launch their fortieth anniversary book
Mulberry - premium British lifestyle brand
Mulberry - fly the flag, or wave the bag

Below, the Balenciaga Padlock handbag, All Day, python

Below, the Balenciaga Padlock handbag, Evening, smooth calf

Below, the Balenciaga Padlock handbag, All Afternoon, smooth calf

Below, the Balenciaga Padlock All Time, python

Below, the Balenciaga Padlock All Time, python

Cristóbal Balenciaga – remembering the Spanish couturier

Outside, the dial is of deceptive simplicity. The watch does nothing but tell the time, but in addition there is a power reserve indicator. This is a little bit different from the usual arrangement, because the indicator, at 3 o'clock, shows zero when it is fully wound, and then as the hours pass, it shows the elapsed time from when the watch was last wound. The seconds subdial and power reserve indicator are on their own level with respect to the rest of the dial, and this, together with the differentiated finish of the silver, creates an effect of extra complexity and sophistication. The dial is made from a solid silver disc. The hands are in blued steel, and the small seconds hand is subtly different from the hour and minute hand, while the power indicator hand is different again. Described in this way, you may think that it looks a bit disorganized, but in actual fact it is beautifully balanced, with that subtle complexity that hallmarks horological brilliance. Another quirky detail are the numbers 7 and 8, smaller than the other to provide space for the small seconds dial. The case is in pink gold, with a diameter of 40 millimetres. Though slim, the impression on the wrist is one of reassuring weight and solidity.

The dial bears François-Paul Journe's customary signature 'Invenit et Fecit,' and this suggests the way in which Journe works: designing the dial and then creating the movement.

The caseback has a sapphire crystal revealing the movement, with plate and bridges in 18-carat gold, decorated in circular graining, or sunburst or wave patterns. The crocodile strap has an 18-carat buckle, which also bears the F.P. Journe signature. The watch is made in two sizes (38 and 40 millimetres) and in a version with a platinum case. Prices are about €22,000 (gold version) or €26,700 (platinum version).

It was this watch which won the 'Best Men's Watch 2012' award in the European Watch of the Year Awards 2012, in which 100 representatives from major watch brands met in London in the first ceremony promoted by this organization. It is an appreciable achievement for François-Paul Journe, who was born in France, began making watches in Paris, and moved to Geneva, joining the AHCI (Academy of Independent Creative Watchmakers) in 1986. His company makes about 800 watches per year, most of which are sold out a year before they actually appear. The company is located at 17 rue de l'Arquebuse, 1204 Geneva.
Further information on the watch and how to purchase at www.fpjourne.com

The competition was organized by 00/24 WatchWorld and 00/24 Horloges. The winners in the five categories were:

Category 1, men's watches up to £2,500: MeisterSinger Perigraph Anthracite

Category 2, men's watches £2,500 to £8,500: Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36,000

Category 3: men's watches £8,500 to £21,000: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain. The short list in this category was the Royal Oak Offshore Diver, the Journe watch, and the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Suspendu

Category 4: men's watches over £21,000: A. Lange & Sohne Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour le Mérite.” This category saw one of the most melodramatic moments of the awards ceremony, when a Richard Mille representative threw the £389,000 RM038 onto the floor to demonstrate its toughness.

Category 5: women's watches: Zenith El Primero 36,000

Below, Cordoba bracelet in yellow gold

Below, medium De Luces pendant, yellow gold

Below, Cordoba ring in yellow gold

Below, Cordoba ring, yellow gold

Below, Gardenias earrings in yellow gold

Carrera y Carrera are continuing in their quest to be one of the world's top jewellery players, alongside Chopard, Bulgari and the other great names.

Click here to find Carrera y Carrera boutiques worldwide

This sort of transport is ideal for people for whom time is at a premium. You can drive to the aircraft, board, and be airborne in just ten minutes. Every flight is direct, with no queues or delays. You can work in peace, in total privacy. On board, you can enjoy your preferred food and drinks, music and films. You can take children and pets. You decide the schedule. Possible destinations include 900 airports in Europe, and 5,000 worldwide. Many of these cannot be reached by conventional airlines, and they include tropical islands and remote mountain villages.

But how does the system actually work? Once you've become part of the NetJets Europe world, the first step is a phone call to communicate your schedule requirements and destination. The company's staff organize the aircraft, book take-off and landing slots, schedule a crew, perform security and weather checks, and arrange chauffeured car transport to the airport. That's it, you're off, in the air, in an unmarked aircraft that, for the duration of the flight, is effectively for you alone. NetJets Europe can guarantee aircraft availability because they have 130 jets in Europe and access to another 800 worldwide. The aircraft range from the 7-seat Cessna Citation Bravo to the 14-seat Bombardier Global 6000, in which you can fly from London to Shanghai, from Moscow to New York.

And what about outlay? The NetJets Europe system is based on fractional ownership, so that you buy a share in an aircraft based on the number of hours you need per year. You have the advantage of access to the largest private jet fleet in the world. As a NetJets Europe Shareowner, you have guaranteed access to your chosen aircraft type or larger, anywhere in the world, at 10 hours' notice. Shares start from 50 hours flying per year.

Alternatively, you can purchase a Private Jet Card to become a Cardholder. This gives you 25 flying hours, with no further commitments.

Could this be a good solution for you? We recommend calling NetJets Europe to discuss your flight requirements. They are flexible, and are always ready to determine a programme that provides the sort of value and flexibility that suits you best. Just call +44 (0)207 3619 620 (or 0207 3619 620 if you are in the UK). Or take a look at their website. Bon voyage!
 

As often happens in the watch business, one can't help thinking of Gerald Genta, in this case his 'Gérald Genta Octo Grande Sonnerie Tourbillion,' which also had four gongs and rang the Westminster Quarters at each quarter and on the hour, "the same melody rung out by London's Big Ben", and priced at about €625,000.

To return to the Soprano, it's a fine piece of traditional watchmaking, but it incorporates some modern features, such as the circular case that incorporates both precious metals and titanium. The four cathedral gongs are circular, in hardened steel wire running round the perimeter of the movement, in this case twice instead of the usual once. The sound is amplified by the central case band in grade 5 titanium, a metal that has characteristically fine acoustic properties. In fact the upper and lower parts of the case (bezel and caseback) are in gold, while the caseband that unites them is in titanium. Gold tends to deaden sound, while titanium transmits it from inside the case to outside.

Charles X bridges are a feature of pocket watches made in Paris during Charles' reign from 1824 to 1830. Christophe Claret spent many years restoring these historical pocket watches and became fascinated by their structure. He pioneered the use of sapphire bridges and plates in Charles X style. This technique increases the transparency of the mechanism, enabling more levels of the movement to be appreciated. The tourbillon escapement, a Christophe Claret trademark, is positioned at 6 o'clock, mounted on a single-arm stepped bridge in Charles X style.

In the Soprano, the repeater slider activates the mechanism. The chimes sound the number of hours, followed by the Westminster Quarters melody if the time is 15 or more minutes past the hour, and then the number of minutes after the last quarter hour.
The Soprano is powered by the manually-wound Calibre TRD 98 movement, with 450 parts, and 72 hours power reserve. It has a single mainspring barrel in transparent sapphire crystal. This also acts as a power reserve indicator: when the movement is fully wound, the spring is centred in the barrel. The watch is mounted in a circular case, 45 x 56.8 millimetres, 15.32 millimetres depth.

Click here to find Christophe Claret retailers worldwide

Click below to watch a video for the Christophe Claret Soprano (the chimes are at 3:15)

Click below to watch a video of the Westminster Chimes and Big Ben

Read more watch and jewellery articles

Filled with curiosity I turn to my guide, who explains, “few places are able to put together so many icons of the moment.” And this is perfectly true. It is perhaps the most exclusive collection of designer items, from Alexander McQueen to Yohji Yamamoto, including Balmain, Givenchy and many more, all elegantly arranged under one cool roof.

But what exactly is their key to success? Gatti smiles, replying “our success is based on the belief that luxury, good taste and excellence exist and that they should continue to do so. At the time of purchase, you try to choose everything that can be translated from the runway to real life to make it unique yet elegant and above all wearable,” he explains. “Let’s say that, more than a store” continues Gatti, “Delitto e Castigo becomes a fashion atelier, through personalized service from our staff and directors. Here you’ll find refined taste and timeless elegance that have been adapted to our day and age.” This is visible in the unique displays throughout the store, where the mannequins have been beautifully dressed combining various designers to create killer looks for the season.

One last question, why Delitto e Castigo? Gatti explained that he was attracted by the name, which by a sequence of circumstances is linked to the famous film-maker Luchino Visconti. In fact the store's design has something in common with Visconti's visual style. To find out more, you have no choice but to pay them a visit.

Delitto e Castigo

Calle de Claudio Coello 26 – Callejón de Puigcerdá s/n

Tel. +34 91 5777 729
Fax +34 91 5783 504
info@delittoecastigo.com

At first sight it's a little arduous locating something in common between the Burberry trench coat and the new series of Burberry watches, but there can be no doubt that visually there are references to things British, such as traditional engineering, with beautifully finished multi-faceted metal, exposed screws and chunky shapes, reminiscent of steam trains such as the 'Great Britain', ships, and, with its unusual shape halfway between circular and square, more obscure British images such as the steering wheel of the Austin Allegro.

Actually, what Christopher Bailey means is that some details from the trench coats, such as D-rings, stitching and trench-colours, have been featured in the watch and the straps. The multi-faceted case construction, designed by Christopher Bailey, has a military flavour; trench-coloured SuperLuminova is used on the hands.

There are perhaps traces of Gerald Genta as well. It's impossible not to think of the Royal Oak (below, centre), with its flat, satin-finish bezel with very visible screws, and in fact the Britain (below left, The Britain Automatic), like the Royal Oak, has an octagonal case, albeit with a unique geometry. Both have an octagonal crown. It is even closer to the Patek Philippe Nautilus (below right), another Genta creation.

But the Britain's case, a distinctive feature, is very complex, in 32 parts, with a wide, flat bezel and bolts that are tightened into the curved back. The case construction offers good protection from the weather (water resistant up to 50 or 100 metres according to the model), and it includes (in some versions) a magnifying caseback that enhances the movement. The movements are decorated with Geneva Stripes engraving, with the Burberry logo on the rotor. (Below, the Britain Automatic).

The watches are powered by Swiss-made mechanical movements, There are five models, each of which is available a range of versions and colours. The Power Reserve Automatic is powered by the Soprod 9040 self-winding movement, with the power reserve meter just above 6 o'clock. The Automatic is more minimalistic and slightly smaller – 43 millimetres – with just 12 and 6 hour markers in numerals, and a date window at 3 o'clock. This is powered by the ETA 2824 movement. The chronograph, with Ronda 5040.D movement, has a distinctly pilot's watch look, with black ionized-plated steel bezel, matt black dial, and black rubberized alligator strap. The subdials for the small seconds and chronograph are sufficiently legible and well balanced. This model is water resistant to 100 metres.

The Quartz model is for women, 38 millimetres in diameter, with 124 diamonds (0.68 carats) set into the bezel. The dial, in trench colour with sunray finish, is a nice match with the alligator strap in the same beige colour.

The watches will be available in Burberry boutiques from November, at prices starting from about €1,380.

Click here to read more watch articles
Read the Burberry Prorsum spring 2013 review

Tucked away in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter lies what many consider one of the city’s loveliest squares – Plaça Reial. A favourite for both locals and tourists, it is off the beaten track, yet it embodies the magic of the city. Just head down along the narrow Carrer de Colom, away from the hustle and bustle of Las Ramblas, and soon you will enter this oasis.

Take a minute to let it all sink in: the tranquil flow of water from the beautiful wrought iron fountain which portrays the three Graces; the cool sea breeze that brushes past the majestic palm trees; and the suffused glow from the ornate street lights created by none other than the master of Modernisme, Antoní Gaudí. Though created early on in his career, these lights subtly give the square that special touch of his genius, present throughout the city. Surrounded by 19th century buildings with elegant porticoes, the square was built in the 1850s and designed by Francesc Daniel Molina i Casamajó and it is considered the quintessential Spanish square.

To truly discover the magic of this square you should go after sunset. At night this is one of the city’s liveliest spots with numerous bars and clubs. Whether you want to simply have a chilled sangría and tapas, or dine al fresco, this is the perfect place. Here you’ll find some of Barcelona’s legendary hotspots such as Jamboree, Karma, Sidecar and a few new additions. If you're intending to hit the clubs, check in advance, as entry to some may be easier if you phone in advance. Clubs attract crowds at the weekends and queues tend to build up.

Whether you come to take a break from the buzz of town, to read, to see the artists and performers or for drinks, your trip won’t be complete without having sipped at least one cocktail in Plaça Reial!

Restaurants:
 

La Cuina del Do 
(Mediterranean)
Plaça Reial 1


Tel. +34 93 4813 666

Restaurant Botiga Matamala 
(Catalan)


Rambla de Catalunya 13


Tel. +34 93 3026 631


Clubs:
Jamboree (Jazz, R&B)
Plaça Reial 17


Tel. +34 93 3191 789

Karma 
(discotheque)


Plaça Reial 10
Tel. +34 93 3025 680


Sidecar Factory Club
 (American bar)
Plaça Reial 7


Tel. +34 93 3021 586

Café Royale
 (live music)
Carrer Nou de Zurbano 3


Tel. +34 93 4121 433

It was in fact 200 years ago that Abraham-Louis Breguet designed the first wristwatch in history, for Queen Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. To mark the anniversary, Breguet have created a Reine de Naples anniversary piece, a Grande Complication repeater watch which chimes at every hour (the mechanism can be deactivated by means of a pushpiece at 2 o'clock). This oval watch incorporates a great deal of research by Breguet into the acoustics of chiming. Queen Caroline herself is celebrated by decoration on the bridges and oscillating weight visible through the sapphire caseback, which depicts a Mediterranean-style pavilion recalling her palaces.

The watch is an absolute jewel in every sense, with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds and 27 blue sapphires on the bezel, 233 brilliant-cut diamonds and 303 blue sapphires on the dial, and a briolette-cut diamond set into the crown at 4 o'clock. The hammers of the striking mechanism can be seen at 11 and 1 o'clock. The movement is a self-winding Breguet Calibre 78SO, providing 65 hours power reserve without chimes, and 50 hours with chimes operating.

The Reine de Naples collection – both the watch and the jewellery – is a tribute to the watch created by Caroline Murat from Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1810 and delivered two years later. Unfortunately, the watch is no longer in the Breguet collection, and indeed, no-one knows where it is. The Breguet order book records two commissions from the Queen of Naples in June 1810: a grand complication carriage clock, and a timepiece "for a bracelet, with minute repeater." The latter became Breguet's watch n° 2639, and the Maison described it as a "repeater in oblong form for bracelet." They completed it in December 1811, but the queen asked for some changes in the minute repeater system and the dial, for which she requested Arabic numerals. It was completed and delivered in December 1812.

Breguet have another two records of the watch, the first dating to March 1849, when Caroline Murat's daughter Louise brought it in to be repaired. They described it as "fitted into a bracelet of hair entwined with gold thread." In the second, 1855, the owner requested two new watch keys. From then on, its location is unknown. It would be an exciting find.

For the anniversary, celebrated in Naples and Capri on 5 and 6 October 2012, Breguet opened the Reggia di Capodimonte, home to Caroline Murat from 1808 to 1815. The Maison also showed a touring Reine de Naples exhibition dedicated to the exciting story of the first wristwatch. And of course, Breguet showcased the exclusive new Reine de Naples jewellery, and the special watch.

Click here to find Breguet boutiques worldwide

Read more:
Top five candidates for the first wristwatch in the world
Breguet and its flagship boutique in Hong Kong

If you're not Bond, a more classic dress watch is advisable for smart events. This generally means something slim, thin or ultra-thin, with a simple dial, not all that large – though fashion changes in this respect, and many classic watches now have 40 millimetre dials instead of the mid-size dial that used to be the norm. The determining factor is whether the watch is small and slim enough to fit under your French cuff, which could be taken as meaning 38 millimetres and max 7 millimetres. But let's take a look at some candidates for classic dress watches.

1. Breguet Classique 5157

This extra-thin watch is definitely a classic, with its unmistakable Breguet looks – Roman numerals, Breguet hands, fluted case, superb guilloché dial – that create an appearance of extraordinary refinement. Its appearance is based on Abraham Louis Breguet's creations, which revolutionized watch design in his day, privileging pure forms, harmonious proportions and unobtrusive dials. The back of the watch is truly spectacular, with the guilloché oscillating weight dominating the superbly finished movement. This piece is available in 18-carat yellow gold or white gold. The Calibre 502.3 movement, with 45 hours power reserve, is housed in a 38 millimetre case, 5.4 millimetres thick. Retail price about €12,500.

2. Piaget Altiplano

Piaget positively specializes in ultra-thin dress watches, and the maison continue to break records. The Piaget Altiplano Ref. GOA29112 in 18-carat white gold is just one of its many Altiplano variants, and it is a minimalist version with extreme classic elegance. The case is just 6 millimetres thick and 38 millimetres in diameter, with white dial, baton-type indices and black strap. The Piaget 430P ultra-thin movement is hand-wound, with about 43 hours power reserve. The movement is finished with blued screws, bevelled bridges, and circular Côtes de Genève. About €13,100. The brand has helpfully created a pair of Altiplano cufflinks which would make the perfect set with the watch. €3,300.

3. Pierre Arpels watch

Van Cleef & Arpels are famous principally for their beautiful and poetic women’s watches, but for men, they have a real classic, the Pierre Arpels watch, which was created specially for Pierre Arpels in 1949. The brand presented a new range of this model at SIHH 2012. They retain the principal characteristics of the original: a watch based on a perfect circle, with a single lug on each side instead of the conventional dual lugs in order to reinforce the effect of lightnes and geometry. The two hands are needle-like batons; the hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 are Roman numerals, all placed the same way up. The case is of course ultra-thin, because Pierre wanted it to sit discreetly under his shirt cuff. The white lacquer dial has a central section with a relief honeycomb pattern, while the case is slightly bevelled, ensuring that it doesn’t catch on clothes. The strap in the 2012 versions is even more minimalistic than in the original, with two layers of black alligator that are not sewn, but manually glued. It is available in two sizes, 38 or 42 millimetres, in pink or white gold. The 38-millimetre versions are closer to Pierre’s original concept, while the 42-millimetre reflects the current preference for larger watches. There is also a version in which the bezel is set with diamonds. In all versions, a diamond is set into the crown.

The watch is powered by a manually-wound Piaget movement, the 830 P. Nothing strange about this: Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels are both Richemont brands, and Piaget actually began life making movements, specializing in ultra-thin. The effect of this watch on the wrist is delicate, and the single lug is usually a feature of women’s watches. But nonetheless it’s spectacular, and perfect in its function as a dress watch. Read more about the watch and Pierre Arpels here.

4. Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119

One of the classic dress watches, given character with its hobnail (or Clous de Paris) bezel. The Calatrava dates back to 1932 and was influenced by the Bauhaus and its pure, functional design. The case is 36 millimetres in diameter, with an ultra-thin silhouette – 7 millimetres – that helps forge its identity, along with its satin-finished sides, mirror-polished lugs. The dial is perfectly balanced, with black Roman numerals on white background, leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, and a discreet baton-style seconds hand on a subdial at 6 o'clock. The calibre 215 PS manually-wound movement provides about 44 hours power reserve. Perhaps the most classic version is in white gold with black alligator strap; it is also available in yellow, pink or white gold.

5. Ulysse Nardin Classico 8206-118-2/31

This 39-millimetre watch with an 18-carat rose gold case and eggshell dial has a small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock, and a well-balanced overall feel. The movement provides about 42 hours power reserve, and the case is water-resistant to 50 metres. With its brown alligator strap, it is a classic as its name proudly claims. About €10,200.

6. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control

The Master range has a number of classic watches, and the Master Control, part of the 2012 collection, has that purity of line that makes it an ideal dress watch. The Calibre 899 is a lovely movement, whose superb appearance can be admired through the sapphire caseback. It runs at 28,800 vibrations/hour, with 43 hours power reserve. A feature of this model consists of ceramic ball bearings and a variable inertia balance which enhance reliability. In one model, the stainless-steel case frames a silvered sunray-brushed dial, with rhodium-plated numerals and hour markers, while in the 18-carat pink gold model, the dial has gilt numerals and hour markers. The blued centre seconds hand provides a refined note of colour. There is a date window at 3 o'clock. Reliability is assured by the Master Control 1000 Hours process, in which watches undergo 1,000 hours of testing in the factory.

7. Jules Audemars Extra-Thin

This self-winding watch has a 6.7-millimetre thick case, with a diameter of 41 millimetres, withhour and minute functions. The dial is an essay in minimalism, with just 12 baton-style hour markers, two hands, the Audemars Piguet logo, and the usual 'Swiss Made' at the 6 o'clock position. The automatic movement operates at 19,900 vibrations/hour, with a 40-hour power reserve. It is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, and it has manually-finished bridges, with polished bevels and satin-brushed edges. The oscillating weight can be custom-decorated according to the customer's wishes. It is available in three versions: 18-carat white gold, silvered dial, black strap; 18-carat pink gold case, silvered dial, brown strap; and 18-carat pink gold case, black dial and black strap. Magnificent.

8. Montblanc Star Classique Automatic

This is a superbly elegant watch with a 39-millimetre dial. The Montblanc 4810/408 automatic movement provides about 42 hours power reserve, and runs at 28,800 vibrations/hour. The absolute simplicity of the watch is mitigated by a small second dial at 6 o'clock, subtly featuring the Montblanc logo. The watch is of average thickness at 8.9 millimetres. It has a sapphire crystal caseback. This piece is available in a number of versions: 18 carat red gold and yellow gold, gold-and-steel with bezel and crown in 18 carat red gold, and two steel versions with black alligator-leather straps.
All in all, a classically minimalist piece, in which even the rounded crown plays an important part in the design. The subtle curves of case and lugs contribute to the watch's wearability and enhance the impression of slimness even though it is nowhere near an ultra-thin.

9. IWC Portofino Automatic

Three hands, and a discreet date display. This is the IWC formula for a classic watch, in a 40-millimetre diameter, 9.5 millimetre thick case in a number of versions that include Milanese mesh bracelets (which personally I would avoid for a dress watch). The dial has linear hour index markers, except at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions with Roman numerals. The 35110 calibre self-winding movement offers a 42-hour power reserve, and the centre seconds has the hacking function. The 18-carat red gold version has a gold back with an engraving of the village of Portofino, and a dark brown alligator strap. The stainless steel case version offers the choice of a silver-plated or black dial.

10. Omega De Ville Co-Axial Chronometer

In the version with stainless steel case and black leather strap, this has the simplicity and discretion essential for a dress watch. The dial in the 41-millimetre case has centre hour, minutes and seconds, and a date window at 3 o'clock. Hour markers are in Roman numerals. This is, however, a multi-tasking watch, water-resistant to 100 metres, and with the Omega 8500 calibre with co-axial escapement that improves accuracy and stability, and increases power reserve to 60 hours. The bridges and oscillating weight, visible through the caseback, are decorated in Côtes de Genève.

11. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding

This model has been given a new 41-millimetre case, housing the ultra-thin Calibre 1120, compliant with the Hallmark of Geneva standards. The case itself is 8.6 millimetres thick. This watch is a piece with beautiful balance, understated, tightly-honed throughout from the narrow bezel to the beautiful daupine hands. The gold case frames an opaline silver-toned dial, with 18-carat pink gold applied hour-markers. A black minute circle adds a delicate note of colour contrast. The sapphire caseback reveals the superb finish of the movement, with Côtes de Genève work on the flat surfaces, chamfered and hand-polished edges and screw heads. Unusually, the screw-in caseback has a knurled edge and is relatively side, making it look a little sportier. Only if you take the watch off, of course. It has a classic strap in chestnut brown alligator. The movement runs at 2.75 Hertz (19,800 vibrations/hour), with a power reserve of about 40 hours.

12. Jaquet Droz Eclipse Onyx

Jaquet Droz watches are always different and interesting, and this piece packs a lot of functions into a dial that is still uncluttered and deliciously eccentric. The dial is in onyx, housed in a polished steel case, with centre hours and minutes, and another centre hand that indicates the day of the month. The date hand is distinguished from the hour and minute hands because it is wiggly, and ends in a crescent that frames the date number. There is a small celestial scene with moon phase at 6 o'clock, with moon and stars in bright rhodium-plated metal. Day and month are indicated in windows above the centre of the dial. The case is a tad larger than most dress watches at 43 millimetres, but it's definitely a watch that makes a statement, and that statement is masculine originality. Not least because a complication watch is housed in steel. Black alligator strap.
 

But if you're not Bond, a more classic dress watch is advisable for smart events. This generally means something slim, thin or ultra-thin, with a simple dial, not all that large – though fashion changes in this respect, and many classic watches now have 40 millimetre dials instead of the mid-size dial that used to be the norm. The determining factor is whether the watch is small and slim enough to fit under your French cuff, which could be taken as meaning 38 millimetres and max 7 millimetres. But let's take a look at some candidates for classic dress watches.

1. Breguet Classique 5157

This extra-thin watch is definitely a different sort of classic, with its unmistakable Breguet looks – Roman numerals, Breguet hands, fluted case, superb guilloché dial – that create an appearance of extraordinary refinement. Its appearance is based on A.L. Breguet's creations, which revolutionized watch design in his day, privileging pure forms, harmonious proportions and unobtrusive dials. The back of the watch is truly spectacular, with the guilloché oscillating weight dominating the superbly finished movement. This piece is available in 18-carat yellow gold or white gold. The Calibre 502.3 movement, with 45 hours power reserve, is housed in a 38 millimetre case, 5.4 millimetres thick. Retail price about $16,200.

2. Piaget Altiplano

Piaget positively specializes in ultra-thin dress watches, and the maison continue to break records. The Piaget Altiplano Ref. GOA29112 in 18-carat white gold is just one of its many Altiplano variants, and it is a minimalist version with extreme classic elegance. The case is just 6 millimetres thick and 38 millimetres in diameter, with white dial, baton-type indices and black strap. The Piaget 430P ultra-thin movement is hand-wound, with about 43 hours power reserve. The movement is finished with blued screws, bevelled bridges, and circular Côtes de Genève. $17,000. The brand has helpfully created a pair of Altiplano cufflinks which would make the perfect set with the watch. $4,300.

3. Pierre Arpels watch

Van Cleef & Arpels are famous principally for their beautiful and poetic women’s watches, but for men, they have a real classic, the Pierre Arpels watch, which was created specially for Pierre Arpels in 1949. The brand presented a new range of this model at SIHH 2012. They retain the principal characteristics of the original: a watch based on a perfect circle, with a single lug on each side instead of the conventional dual lugs in order to reinforce the effect of lightnes and geometry. The two hands are needle-like batons; the hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 are Roman numerals, all placed the same way up. The case is of course ultra-thin, because Pierre wanted it to sit discreetly under his shirt cuff. The white lacquer dial has a central section with a relief honeycomb pattern, while the case is slightly bevelled, ensuring that it doesn’t catch on clothes. The strap in the 2012 versions is even more minimalistic than in the original, with two layers of black alligator that are not sewn, but manually glued. It is available in two sizes, 38 or 42 millimetres, in pink or white gold. The 38-millimetre versions are closer to Pierre’s original concept, while the 42-millimetre reflects the current preference for larger watches. There is also a version in which the bezel is set with diamonds. In all versions, a diamond is set into the crown. The watch is powered by a manually-wound Piaget movement, the 830 P. Nothing strange about this: Piaget and Van Cleef & Arpels are both Richemont brands, and Piaget actually began life making movements, specializing in ultra-thin. The effect of this watch on the wrist is delicate, and the single lug is usually a feature of women’s watches. But nonetheless it’s spectacular, and perfect in its function as a dress watch. Read more about the watch and Pierre Arpels here.

4. Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119

One of the classic dress watches, given character with its hobnail (or Clous de Paris) bezel. The Calatrava dates back to 1932 and was influenced by the Bauhaus and its pure, functional design. The case is 36 millimetres in diameter, with an ultra-thin silhouette – 7 millimetres – that helps forge its identity, along with its satin-finished sides, mirror-polished lugs. The dial is perfectly balanced, with black Roman numerals on white background, leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, and a discreet baton-style seconds hand on a subdial at 6 o'clock. The calibre 215 PS manually-wound movement provides about 44 hours power reserve. Perhaps the most classic version is in white gold with black alligator strap; it is also available in yellow, pink or white gold.

5. Ulysse Nardin Classico 8206-118-2/31

This 39-millimetre watch with an 18-carat rose gold case and eggshell dial has a small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock, and a well-balanced overall feel. The movement provides about 42 hours power reserve, and the case is water-resistant to 50 metres. With its brown alligator strap, it is a classic as its name proudly claims. About $13,200.

6. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control

The Master range has a number of classic watches, and the Master Control, part of the 2012 collection, has that purity of line that makes it an ideal dress watch. The Calibre 899 is a lovely movement, whose superb appearance can be admired through the sapphire caseback. It runs at 28,800 vibrations/hour, with 43 hours power reserve. A feature of this model consists of ceramic ball bearings and a variable inertia balance which enhance reliability. In one model, the stainless-steel case frames a silvered sunray-brushed dial, with rhodium-plated numerals and hour markers, while in the 18-carat pink gold model, the dial has gilt numerals and hour markers. The blued centre seconds hand provides a refined note of colour. There is a date window at 3 o'clock. Reliability is assured by the Master Control 1000 Hours process, in which watches undergo 1,000 hours of testing in the factory.

7. Jules Audemars Extra-Thin

This self-winding watch has a 6.7-millimetre thick case, with a diameter of 41 millimetres, withhour and minute functions. The dial is an essay in minimalism, with just 12 baton-style hour markers, two hands, the Audemars Piguet logo, and the usual 'Swiss Made' at the 6 o'clock position. The automatic movement operates at 19,900 vibrations/hour, with a 40-hour power reserve. It is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, and it has manually-finished bridges, with polished bevels and satin-brushed edges. The oscillating weight can be custom-decorated according to the customer's wishes. It is available in three versions: 18-carat white gold, silvered dial, black strap; 18-carat pink gold case, silvered dial, brown strap; and 18-carat pink gold case, black dial and black strap. Magnificent.

8. Montblanc Star Classique Automatic

This is a superbly elegant watch with a 39-millimetre dial. The Montblanc 4810/408 automatic movement provides about 42 hours power reserve, and runs at 28,800 vibrations/hour. The absolute simplicity of the watch is mitigated by a small second dial at 6 o'clock, subtly featuring the Montblanc logo. The watch is of average thickness at 8.9 millimetres. It has a sapphire crystal caseback. This piece is available in a number of versions: 18 carat red gold and yellow gold, gold-and-steel with bezel and crown in 18 carat red gold, and two steel versions with black alligator-leather straps.
All in all, a classically minimalist piece, in which even the rounded crown plays an important part in the design. The subtle curves of case and lugs contribute to the watch's wearability and enhance the impression of slimness even though it is nowhere near an ultra-thin.

9. IWC Portofino Automatic

Three hands, and a discreet date display. This is the IWC formula for a classic watch, in a 40-millimetre diameter, 9.5 millimetre thick case in a number of versions that include Milanese mesh bracelets (which personally I would avoid for a dress watch). The dial has linear hour index markers, except at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions with Roman numerals. The 35110 calibre self-winding movement offers a 42-hour power reserve, and the centre seconds has the hacking function. The 18-carat red gold version has a gold back with an engraving of the
village of Portofino, and a dark brown alligator strap. The stainless steel case version offers the choice of a silver-plated or black dial.

10. Omega De Ville Co-Axial Chronometer

In the version with stainless steel case and black leather strap, this has the simplicity and discretion essential for a dress watch. The dial in the 41-millimetre case has centre hour, minutes and seconds, and a date window at 3 o'clock. Hour markers are in Roman numerals. This is, however, a multi-tasking watch, water-resistant to 100 metres, and with the Omega 8500 calibre with co-axial escapement that improves accuracy and stability, and increases power reserve to 60 hours. The bridges and oscillating weight, visible through the caseback, are decorated in Côtes de Genève.

11. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding

This model has been given a new 41-millimetre case, housing the ultra-thin Calibre 1120, compliant with the Hallmark of Geneva standards. The case itself is 8.6 millimetres thick. This watch is a piece with beautiful balance, understated, tightly-honed throughout from the narrow bezel to the beautiful daupine hands. The gold case frames an opaline silver-toned dial, with 18-carat pink gold applied hour-markers. A black minute circle adds a delicate note of colour contrast. The sapphire caseback reveals the superb finish of the movement, with Côtes de Genève work on the flat surfaces, chamfered and hand-polished edges and screw heads. Unusually, the screw-in caseback has a knurled edge and is relatively side, making it look a little sportier. Only if you take the watch off, of course. It has a classic strap in chestnut brown alligator. The movement runs at 2.75 Hertz (19,800 vibrations/hour), with a power reserve of about 40 hours.

12. Jaquet Droz Eclipse Onyx

Jaquet Droz watches are always different and interesting, and this piece packs a lot of functions into a dial that is still uncluttered and deliciously eccentric. The dial is in onyx, housed in a polished steel case, with centre hours and minutes, and another centre hand that indicates the day of the month. The date hand is distinguished from the hour and minute hands because it is wiggly, and ends in a crescent that frames the date number. There is a small celestial scene with moon phase at 6 o'clock, with moon and stars in bright rhodium-plated metal. Day and month are indicated in windows above the centre of the dial. The case is a tad larger than most dress watches at 43 millimetres, but it's definitely a watch that makes a statement, and that statement is masculine originality. Not least because a complication watch is housed in steel. Black alligator strap.
 

The stores now present ready-to-wear fashion, accessories, perfumes and home furnishings, and they have diversified in order to suggest different lifestyles. After all, today's public is cosmopolitan and cross-generational, and in order to make the shopping experience even more complete for all, the stores are playfully and thoughtfully arranged. They are the perfect place to stroll, meet friends, try on something new.

Their interiors are bright and contemporary, and they include restaurants, bars, hair and beauty salons. The Group is still managed by the Brunschwig family, Anne-Marie de Picciotto-Brunschwig, Nicolas, Jean-Marc and Pierre Brunschwig, who have chosen to continue to focus growth on quality. The store's logo was redeveloped in 2008, with lettering and colour chosen to express the discreet creativity that has always been the name's hallmark.

Today, the main stores are in Geneva, Lausanne, Zurich, Basel and Berne. There are another 12 stores in other locations in Switzerland, including boutiques in the airports. Plenty of opportunities to enjoy your Bongénie Grieder experience.

Main stores:
34 rue du Marché, CH-1204 Geneva, tel. +(41) 22 8181 111
Bahnhofstrasse 30, CH-8001 Zurich, tel. +(41) 44 2243 636
10 Place St François, CH-1003 Lausanne, tel. +(41) 21 3452 727
Eisengasse 14, CH-4051 Basel, tel. +(41) 61 2602 700
Kapellplatz 1, 6004 Lucerne, tel. +(41) 44 2243 551
Waisenhausplatz 14, CH-3011 Bern, tel. +(41) 31 3105 060

Below, the Bongénie store in Geneva

Below, the Vaud Lausanne store

Below, the Basel store

Below, the Lucerne store

Below, the Zurich store

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In watches, the trend exists in the same way, and a good example is the stunning Panerai Tuttonero Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica (PAM00438), generally referred to as the Tuttonero. All-black.

The look comes from the ceramic coating on the case and bracelet, which are coated in zirconium oxide powder. The process creates a uniform matte appearance, with a very tough and durable finish. The surface is actually five times more resilient than steel, so preventing accidental scratches. The combination of the matte black case, black dial, and beige numbers and hands, is truly spectacular, and the small seconds on the left creates an interesting balance with the date window at 3 o'clock. SuperLumiNova on the hands and numerals ensures night-time visibility, which even extends to the small seconds hand and markers. The dark Batmobile aesthetic continues on the back, with the movement also with black finish visible through the sapphire caseback crystal.

The watch is powered by the Panerai P 9001/B automatic calibre, with 229 parts, a three-day power reserve, and a GMT hand. It has a power reserve indicator that can be seen through the sapphire crystal on the back. As usual for Luminor watches, the winding crown is protected by Panerai's patented lever device. The watch is water-resistant to 100 metres.

The Tuttonero retails for about €12,650. It is a limited edition of 500 pieces. The watch is supplied with a steel screwdriver for buckle adjustment.

Click here to read more watch stories

Find Panerai boutiques worldwide

Aries, for example, is a realistic depiction of a ram, in diamonds and yellow sapphires, with four lovely Mandarin garnets in a bright orange shade. The sign of Cancer is treated in a different way, in just diamonds, onyx and a pearl, a delicate symphony in black and white, ideal for the sign ruled by the moon. Leo is a bold flurry of yellow and white diamonds, sapphires, and an oval cut ruby. Aquarius takes the form of a graceful female figure pouring a constellation of precious stones from an amphora in sapphire. In the Pisces clip, the Van Cleef & Arpels artists were inspired by Greek mythology and a tale in which Aphrodite and Eros escape from the sea-monster Typhon by transforming themselves into fish. Lapislazzuli create an ultramarine blue accent with the diamonds and a 35 carat aquamarine.

Read more:
Biennale des Antiquaires

Click here to find Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques

In the title photo above, Aries, white gold, diamonds, yellow gold, gradation of yellow and orange sapphires, Mandarin garnets, blue sapphire, and 4 oval-cut Mandarin garnets weighing 20.95 carats in total.

Below, Taurus, white gold, diamonds, emeralds, one carved emerald of 14.41 carats, onyx, grey mother-of-pearl and one cabochon-cut sapphire.

Below, Gemini, white gold, diamonds, white mother-of-pearl, yellow gold, yellow sapphires, lapis lazuli beads, one 14.07-carat cushion-cut yellow sapphire and rose-cut diamond faces.

Below, Cancer, white gold, diamonds, onyx and one white cultured pearl with a diameter of 16.40 mm.

Below, Leo, yellow gold, yellow diamonds, white gold, diamonds, sapphires and one oval-cut ruby of 3.09 carats.

Below, Virgo, white gold, diamonds, sapphires, red gold, Mystery Set™ sapphires and rose-cut diamond face.

Below, Libra, white gold, diamonds, onyx, red coral, white cultured pearls, yellow gold and tsavorite garnets.

Below, Scorpio, white gold, diamonds, multicolored sapphires and spinels, and one 12.93-carat black opal.

Below, Sagittarius, white gold, diamonds, yellow gold, yellow sapphires, 5 Mandarin garnets weighing 24.36 carats in total.

Below, Capricorn, white gold, diamonds, rubies, colored sapphires, onyx and black lacquer.

Below, Aquarius, white gold, diamonds, black lacquer, sapphires, 5 star sapphires weighing 18.28 carats in total, red gold, Mystery Set™ sapphires and rose-cut diamond face.

Below, Pisces, white gold, diamonds, lapis lazuli and one 35.40-carat emerald-cut aquamarine. 

A couple of minutes' walk around Nişantaşı takes me to the latest from Valentino, Roberto Cavalli, Burberry, Alexander McQueen, Max Mara, Emporio Armani, Michael Kors, Marina Rinaldi, Vetrina, Cartier, Prada, Zadig & Voltaire and Christian Louboutin. For my boyfriend, there are always Ermenegildo Zegna, Hermès and Zilli to check out, as well as the Bostan Sokak, a street reserved for the world-class watchmakers IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Parmigiani, Rolex and Vacheron Constantin.

When I’m shopping in Nişantaşı, I always lunch at Brasserie. Right on the intersection of two vibrant streets, it’s perfect for people-watching and the service is always exquisite. Plus, sitting there fills me with anticipation: what’s inside the Beymen store this season? Spreading over a 3,500 square metre area on seven floors, Beymen and her edgy sister store Beymen Blender carry some of the most exciting brands every season. Beymen’s winter selection this year boasts a wide range of brands from Celine, Dior, Delfina Delettrez, Fendi and Bottega Veneta to Lanvin.

Kanyon
Kanyon is an architectural marvel planted at the centre of the busy district of Levent. Whenever I have a meeting around the area, I make sure that I take a stroll through Kanyon’s open-air corridors and look at the seasonal goodies in the shop windows. Among my favourites are Escada Sport, Marina Rinaldi, Max & Co., Max Mara, Patrizia Pepe, Tommy Hilfiger, and Zela with their brand new boutique. The definitive lunch spot at Kanyon is the lively and warm Italian bistro Gina, where the executive styles from tight suits to monochrome dresses are on show. Right next to Gina is a shopper’s paradise: Harvey Nichols. Looking for a Zuhair Murad gown for a wedding or a Diane von Furstenberg dress for a cocktail party? Dive right in.

İstinye Park
I have to admit: whenever I’m in İstinye Park, I go straight to the small Ladurée shop and get a violet macaron for myself. Right in the middle of the Brand Street, I am surrounded by the impressive storefronts of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Gucci, Fendi, Miu Miu, Moschino, Dolce & Gabbana, Ermenegildo Zegna, Etro, Armani and Prada. As if this list were not enough to make any fashionista cry with joy, Beymen also has a separate 4,700 square-metre store with a superb selection of designer brands. I feast my eyes on Gilan’s elegant Ottoman-inspired designs and head to Arte Gioa to take a look at Ulysse Nardin’s ladies' models. A fun shopping day at İstinye Park ends at Gigi, the new Parisian café inside the Beymen store, with a fresh fruit cocktail.

Jewels like this come from a unique realm within the House of Cartier, a world where master jewellers meet the demands of their customers. The flamingo brooch, expertly crafted by Jeanne Toussaint who worked closely with the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, is one of Cartier’s iconic pieces. It is one of the many creatures in Cartier’s animal kingdom, where crocodiles, panthers and exotic living things reside among ravishing gardens and Art Deco palaces.

Cartier has been crafting flawless creations with glittering gems since 1847. From engagement rings and tiaras, to animal-inspired pieces, it is Cartier’s unique combination of extravagance and elegance that has made it one of the world’s most desirable maisons.

Maharajahs, tzars, kings and stars from the silver screen have fallen prey to Cartier’s fauna and flora. A diamond and sapphire studded pather perched upon a sapphire cabochon for the Duchess of Windsor. The Mexican diva and actress María Félix was best remembered in her visit to Cartier’s Rue de la Paix boutique presenting a baby crocodile in a jar for her special order of ‘a miniature jewellery version of the reptile.’ The result is an celebrated necklace of two gold crocodiles embellished with yellow diamonds, emeralds and rubies. Not to mention her more exotic pieces such as a fully articulated platinum serpent with emerald eyes. Her Highness the Begum Ana Khan had a penchant for floral motifs and had Cartier create a lotus-inspired platinum and diamond tiara for her. However, it was perhaps Mike Todd's gift for his wife Elizabeth Taylor that outshined them all, the Cartier Ruby Suite - a breathtaking set of earrings, bracelet and necklace in platinum, diamonds and rubies.

These are just a few of the memorable chapters in the Cartier saga, where jewels transcend emotions to become icons and legends to be remembered for generations to come. This October, these gems along with 400 other precious pieces will be on display in Madrid’s Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza in an exhibition fittingly called ‘The Art of Cartier,’ showcasing the maison’s impeccable craftsmanship and its unprecedented masterpieces. The museum, celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, is pleased to host this exhibition - ‘a blend of resonances and dialogue from the heart of [Cartier’s] long-standing connections,” according to scenographer Jorge Varela.

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza
Palacio de Villahermosa, Paseo del Prado 8
28014 Madrid
Tel. +34 902 760 511
Open from Tuesdays to Sundays from 10.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m.
 

What are the essential ingredients in your kitchen?
“Essential ingredients are always the best products we can find in the market, it’s not something concrete, but the best products
of every season and time. We develop a creative cuisine of superb technique, based on the product and which meets both
creativity and tradition.”

What dish best expresses your cooking style?
“I can’t say one only. We don’t have a star dish, but a tasting menu which includes our latest and more popular dishes. The Gran ABaC Tasting Menu in its entirety ref lects our cooking style.” I can confirm this! With its endless selection of exquisite dishes and equally impressive wine pairings, it is the best way to savour what ABaC restaurant is all about.

What inspires you?
Jordi answers without hesitation. “Our guests.”

Recipe for: Squab rice with foie and mushrooms, two textures of Manchego cheese and essence of mountain herbs

SQUAB:
1 quality fresh squab - Oilve oil (Oleum Flumen Premium) - salt and pepper

SQUAB SAUCE:
Squab trimmings - 200 g small game bones - 2 l mineral water - 1 carrot - 2 onions - 1 white leek - Fresh herbs (rosemary, thyme) - 1dl cognac - 1 dl Porto wine - Butter

FOIE AND MUSHROOM RICE:
200 g mushroom broth - 400 g chicken broth - 100 g Carnaroli rice - 80 g fresh mushrooms (Boletus edulis) - Spring onions - 100 g fresh foie - salt and pepper

MANCHEGO AIR:
200 g Manchego cheese - 200 g mineral water and 200 g milk - 2 g soy lecithin and salt

MANCHEGO DUST:
50 g Manchego cheese

FRESH HERB ESSENCE:
100 g fresh herbs (rosemary, chives, chervil) - 150 g mineral water - 0.5 g xanthan gum - 1 dl olive oil (Oleum Flumen Ninou) - salt

DIRECTIONS:
Season and roast the squab, then prepare a carpaccio with the meat. Prepare the sauce and let it cook for at least two hours.
Prepare the foie and mushroom rice by first sautéeing the onions and mushrooms. Make the risotto with the mushrooms, onion, and broths. In a separate pan, fry the foie, this will then be added to the risotto mixture two minutes before it is fully cooked.
Prepare the Manchego dust by grating 50 grams of cheese. The Manchego air requires a more complicated preparation. Grate the cheese, and dissolve in warm milk. Add water and the other ingredients and mix with a hand blender. Leave to rest for one minute.

Assemble and enjoy!

For excellent holiday attire for cabins and luxury ski resorts: pair trench coats with Premium Cashmere pullovers and corduroy cashco pants. Brave cold city streets with a textured woolen suit worn under a leather shearling-lined coat. Cold, but not that cold? Granted you’re not in Siberian temperatures, the brand’s heavier 3-piece suits can hold their own without a coat. Reinterpreting classic English plaids this season, look out for Prince of Wales check as well as an innovative Chevron pattern applied on pure cashmere and Microsilk. Also of note is Spazzalino, a precious yarn made with the fur of the Alpaca Suri, a rare camel species that comes from Peru and Bolivia.

So where does this love of nature stem from? Founder Ermenegildo Zegna is known to have had a great fondness of the outdoors, so much so that in the 1930s he heavily invested in reforesting the mountain areas around Trivero. These efforts would later lead to the establishment of Oasi Zegna, a not-for-profit initiative that promotes ecological pursuits.

Ermenegildo Zegna brand profile

Al Ain is a cultural gem for the country. It is the birthplace of UAE’s founding father and late ruler of Abu Dhabi, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. For many years, the city has been a summer favourite for the royalty, where they and other visitors escape the heat and humidity of the coastal cities. Up until the 1900s Al Jahili Fort was the official summer royal residence. Completed in 1898, the fort is one of the oldest in the nation. Its unique design features a square plan, a circular tower with four concentric tiers, and a small mosque. During the cool months many open-air concerts are held in this fortress. It has recently undergone restoration and is now open to visitors. We recommend a visit as it also houses an interesting exhibition dedicated to British explorer Wilfred Thesiger, affectionately known in the Emirates as Mubarak bin London.

To continue your journey into the country’s past we also recommend visits to the nearby Al Ain National Museum and the Al Ain Palace Museum. The first is located behind Al Jahili fort and is said to be the oldest museum in the UAE. Here you will enjoy an overview of Al Ain's history, from its first inhabitants over 7,500 years ago to a detailed look at the pre-oil era. The Al Ain Palace Museum, the former Sheikh's residence, offers a glimpse into the royal family's daily life. Covering 1,200 hectares, the Al Ain oasis is the city’s largest and is located between these two museums. It is a great place to enjoy a stroll or picnic, and one of its highlights consists of the many canals that form part of the impressive 'falaj' irrigation system.

At a height of 1,240 metres Jebel Hafeet dominates the landscape to the south of the city. This mountain is the second highest point in the country and is the source of the natural spring that feeds Al Ain's oasis. Weather permitting (when it's not boiling), visitors can follow one of the numerous hiking trails to the top of the mountain. Tour guides are available and they are highly recommended to locate the most scenic routes. If hiking isn’t your thing, don't worry, because the twisting road makes for a thrilling drive. Enjoy the view of the entire city and across to Oman, while also enjoying some very welcome refreshments or a dip at the pool at the nearby Mercure Grand Jebel Hafeet Hotel.

If you have youngsters in tow, the Al Ain Wildlife Park & Resort fits the bill to perfection. This 900-hectare park at the foot of Jebel Hafeet is home to over 4,300 animals, including the Arabian Orynx and Sand Gazelles, native to the area, as well as giraffes, rhinoceros, white lions and of course, the majestic falcon. Tip: beat the heat and go early in the morning or late in the evening to enjoy the weather and sights.

As you head back to Dubai or Abu Dhabi you will already be missing the charm and peace of this Eden. But it's only a short drive away, so you can return the next day!

The watch has a black croco grain leather strap with titanium deployment. Each watch is marked with its serial number, on the movement bridge, caseback and COSC Certificate that accompanies the watch. It retails at about €3,760.

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There are some regional differences. In northern Switzerland, cheese is melted in a pot with white wine, and consumed by using a long stick to dip pieces of bread in the cheese. Should you lose your bread in the fondue, your companions may request that you sing or take a shot of Kirsch, possibly both. There are several recommendations, often vigorously enforced by restaurant staff. The most important of these is not to drink water during the meal, but only white wine. And remember to constantly stir the cheese. At the end, when it's all gone, you'll find a layer of solid well-cooked cheese at the bottom, called 'la religieuse.' It's the best bit, but the Swiss don't fight over it. After all, fondue is a symbol of their national unity.

In the French regions of Switzerland, they eat raclette, which is a soft cheese melted over potatoes, served with meat slices that are either grilled at the table or presented as cold cured beef slices and pickles. A final version is Fondue chinoise. This is very similar to the Japanese dish shabu-shabu. A pot of boiling broth is placed in the centre of the table, and each diner selects a piece of meat to cook in the pot, eating with a variety of special sauces.

However you like your fondue, it is best consumed in the winter, with a large group of friends and plenty of white wine.

Photo below courtesy swiss-image.ch/Andrea Badrutt

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The organization that puts on Istancool is ISTANBUL’74, which was founded by Demet Müftüoğlu Eşeli and Alphan Eşeli in 2009. ISTANBUL’74 also publishes 74 Gazette, an arts magazine and STUDIO’74, a design office. Demet Müftüoğlu Eşeli spoke to us about their exciting new project.

How was ISTANBUL’74 born?
We started ISTANBUL’74 with the idea of conveying Istanbul’s cultural spirit and wealth to the world, and in return bringing the best examples in the international arts and culture platform to the city. ISTANBUL’74 is an effort to introduce Turkish talent to the world with its inspiring yearly exhibition schedule while keeping close ties with the international arena.

To attain this goal, how have you collaborated with international galleries and institutions?
Our main ambition is to reinforce the proliferation of world-wide artist collaborations with the platform we are creating. It makes us really happy to see the prominent figures of our age meeting young and talented people, and these meetings come to fruition. Among our collaborators are Jefferson Hack, the founding editor of Another and Dazed&Confused magazines, and Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld, one of the youngest and most innovative curators of our time, with whom we’ve organized a show for the French artist Nicolas Pol. Sandro Kopp had his first solo show with us and then we took him to New York, now we’re taking him to London’s Frieze Art Fair.

We also did a show called “Larger Than Life” for the groundbreaking Visionaire magazine. We organized events with “Grand Classics,” which focuses on sharing classics of the cinematic canon with a larger audience. We continue to collaborate with Grey Area, New York’s most hip online and concept store. Now next in line is a special exhibition by the acclaimed accessories and jewellery designer Waris Ahluwalia.

What is your view on Istanbul's growing importance on the arts scene?
In the last few years, we’ve witnessed Turkish artists’ works breaking records at Sotheby’s and Christie’s auctions. Istanbul already had a great deal of potential as an art capital, but the opening of Istanbul Modern, Arter and other institutions put the city on the global art map. Obviously, the Istanbul Biennial has been one of our core strengths since 1987.

The idea to create ISTANBUL’74 took shape in the face of these encouraging factors: in addition to our rich heritage and unique culture, an emerging independent contemporary art platform and a vibrant economy gave us the ground to realize our dreams. Today, as the world gets smaller, existing cultural centres inevitably begin moving around, questioning the order and trying to establish new poles of attraction.

What was your favourite featured talk from the last three editions of Istancool?
Among this year’s panels, my favourite was the conversation between Jefferson Hack and Pınar Yolaçan – an inspiration to all those who watched a contemporary artist revealing the depths of her imagination. Legendary names like Gore Vidal and Terry Gilliam showed us their immense knowledge and different points of view.

Could you tell us about your Istanbul?
I believe in going beyond the obvious and rediscovering this city all over again. Among my favourite places are the historical Karaköy district, where our offices are located, its restaurants, Suna’nın Yeri in Kandilli, Münferit and Mangerie. I like shopping at V2K Designers, Yastık by Rifat Ozbek and Haremlique.

Give us a hint about the next festival!
It’s still too early to announce any names, but all I can say is that Istanbul International Arts and Culture Festival is growing day by day. We’re thrilled to be able to invite the creative world to this wonderful city and act as a bridge between the creative minds in Turkey.

ISTANBUL’74
Kemankeş Caddesi Galata Şarap İskelesi Sokak,
Süha Fazlı Han 8/3,
Karaköy, Istanbul
Tel. +90 212 2433 948

The movement is just 4.9 millimetres thick, and the total thickness is 9.85 millimetres. The 2012 version retains the mechanics and the overall look, but the lugs are more slender, creating a sleeker overall profile. Legibility is ensured by the Dauphine hands, superbly finished with one side satinized and the other polished, and the applied rhodium-plated hour markers. The other components on the dial are small seconds in a subdial at 6 o'clock, a pointer-type date display at 2 o'clock, and the power reserve indicator. Power reserve is 43 hours.

The watch is available in two versions: in steel with a sunburst silver-toned dial, and in pink gold with an eggshell-white dial. A note of colour is added by the three small hands, in blued steel. The sapphire caseback reveals the beautifully-decorated movement. The strap is in black alligator with steel clasp, or chocolate alligator with gold pin buckle.

The simplicity of this watch makes it great as a dress watch. Its reference numbers are 1378420 (stainless steel) and 1372520 (pink gold).

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon 39

Scroll down to view some images, and, further down, a video of the finale.

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This season, Doma’s collection is all about architectural pieces, solids and neutrals accented by pops of color, full volume silhouettes, and of course, the accessories. The utilitarian elements in his designs gave the collection an undeniable menswear feeling, but the rich textiles and bright jewel tones, bits of flowing silk, and sexy heels (made in collaboration with his jewelry designer sister, Dorotea Doma) kept it feeling feminine.

The eyewear in the collection was of particular interest, as it is part of Doma’s new collaboration with Mykita. The modern round frames are made of natural materials, a nod to Doma’s respect for the foundation of all living things, the earth. The spirituality with which Doma creates his designs is evident in the final product, as the artistic quality of his pieces brings light to his talent as a creator.

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The thigh-high slit and low-cut top is a favourite of Lopes this season. The collection was highlighted by graphic and colourful tropical prints, evoking the leaves of a palm tree. Our favourites were the accessories: flowers moulded in gold that adorned belts and necklaces, giving the collection that extra bit of luxe. Lopes also took advantage of the suppleness of leather by creating little jackets and mini skirts from both black and coloured leathers. Skin bearing and playful, this collection is perfect for a five-star, tropical vacation.

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Chanel

Comets, stars, suns, and, of course, ribbons and feathers - Chanel celebrates the 80th anniversary of its very first high jewellery collection, called ‘Bijoux de Diamants’ exhibited in 1932. To commemorate that momentous year, Chanel has created a new collection, the ‘1932,’ with 80 unprecedented creations in the maison’s most beloved – and widely recognized – designs. The collection is on tour around the world and will come to the UAE. Equally dreamy and thought-provoking is the Plumes de Chanel collection with nearly 30 jewellery pieces - earrings, brooches, rings, bracelets and necklaces – weaving the mystical world of Chanel, one feather at a time.

Harry Winston

Harry Winston has built a new world with the Ultimate Adornments collection. Forty one-of-a-kind diamond and platinum jewellery creations centre around seven themes: the Indian-inspired Caftan; the Qipao, from 1920s Shanghai; the French lacy Guipure; the American Mrs. Winston; the Mongolian-structured Deel; the glamorous, Hollywood-like Paillette; and Queen, a nod to the Point d’Alençon style. Harry Winston’s realm of women dressed in diamonds beckons...

Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels explores the universal value of luck and the world cultures surrounding it in the Palais de la Chance collection. Each of the three distinctive themes are unique in their own way: Your Lucky Star – celestial-themed with shooting stars and constellations; Lucky-Charm Nature – enchanting flora and fauna; and Lucky Legends – exotic inspirations. As Jacques Arpels once said, “To be lucky, you have to believe in luck.” There is nothing as convincing as these unprecedented creations, which speak to the believer in each one of us with their beautiful gemstones and fine craftsmanship.

Piaget

Celebrating the 30th birthday of its eponymous Yves Piaget Rose collection this year, Piaget continues to cultivate its ‘icy’ world with new jewellery pieces – growing in numbers – in its Limelight Garden Party collection. Different from the Rose collection’s blossom silhouettes, the new ring, hair clip, head band, earrings and necklace resemble delicate twigs of white gold leaves dripping with the most dazzling brilliant and marquise-cut diamonds, which will brighten up a woman’s smile, any day, any season.

Cartier

Cartier’s love affair with the Middle East goes back decades, with its first geometric, Arabesque designs dating back to 1910. Mashrabiyas, swooshes, twirls and other exotic motifs create a shimmering, mystic world, where Cartier showcases its stone-cutting, gem-setting and high jewellery-making techniques with precious metals. The result is a series of contemporary classics, show-stopping diamond earrings, rings, necklaces and more, all designed in a bold yet fascinating silhouette.

The dial has the vertical ribbing that hallmarks the Aqua Terra collection (inspired by the teak decks of luxury yachts), with blue and white centre hour, minute and seconds hands coated with Super-LumiNova, making them legible in all lighting conditions. The housrs are marked by white gold indeces, and there is a date window at 3 o'clock. The 41.5 millimetre case is in brushed and polished stainless steel, and the caseback has a sapphire crystal revealing the movement.

The watch is powered by the in-house chronometer-grade co-axial calibre 8500 with an Si14 silicon balance spring for improved shock resistance and anti-magnetic properties. It has two barrels mounted in series, with automatic winding in both directions. Visible bridges and the oscillating mass are decorated with Geneva waves in arabesque. The movement has a 60-hour power reserve. The watch is water-resistant to 150 metres, with a screw-down crown finished with the Omega logo.

In the photo below, Davis Love III.

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More about the Seamaster
Omega at the London Olympics

The number of brands here can rival any prestigious shopping street in the world's fashion capitals. Dior, Gucci, Hermès, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Carolina Herrera, Burberry and many more fashion brands offer their latest collections at El Corte Inglés. With a total display area of 3,000 square metres, the watch and jewellery department alone will keep you browsing for a good while. Whether it be a boutique, a shop-in-shop space or a dedicated corner, you will find watch collections by Blancpain, Bulgari, Cartier, IWC, Panerai, Rolex, Omega and other top brands. Jewellery featured here includes selected pieces by Boucheron, Chaumet, Chopard, Piaget, and Carrera y Carrera.

El Corte Inglés' Gourmet Experience is a discovery for food and wine enthusiasts. Looking for jamón ibérico, smoked salmon, fresh oysters or even hamburgers? You will find them all in this 1,000-square-metre gastronomic paradise offering products from the world's best vendors and producers. Take a break from shopping and enjoy excellent tapas, or have an aromatic Nespresso coffee or a glass of fresh juice as you think about your next purchase. Open from 10.00 a.m. to midnight from Monday to Saturday and from 11.00 a.m. to 9.00 p.m. on Sunday and holidays, the Gourmet Experience is ideal for jetlagged travellers and busy executives looking for a quick bite while doing some last-minute souvenir and gift shopping.

Besides luxury and gastronomic shopping, El Corte Inglés' health and beauty space alone is well worth a visit. Covering an area of 1,300 square metres, it comprises a spa with beauty treatments, Turkish baths, a gym, sports medicine, personal training, image consulting, next-generation laser hair removal, beauty treatments and much more, including a health food centre.

Your experience at El Corte Inglés is made all the more enjoyable by the multilingual staff who speak languages including Portuguese, Russian and Chinese. Take advantage of tax refund shopping and delivery services to your hotel or city of origins. China UnionPay debit and credit cards are also accepted here. El Corte Inglés promises a unique lifestyle experience for locals and travellers alike.

Paseo de la Castellana 85, Madrid
Tel. +34 91 4188 800

The Portuguese Perpetual Calendar provides a countdown until the next full moon, in reference to the importance of our satellite in dictating high and low tide. It is a beautiful piece with date, day, month and year functions, and a fascinating subdial showing the course of the moon in northern and southern hemispheres. The calendar system advances totally independently, and a manual correction to the date will become necessary only in February 2100. All the owner has to do is to ensure that its 7-day movement remains wound. Another operation that will have to be performed in 2100 is to advance a zero to 1 at the change of the century, in the four-digit year display. Remember to add a clause in your will, providing instructions for your great-grandson!

The lunar display at 12 o'clock has the Earth depicted twice, so that the phases of the moon are shown as seen both in the northern and southern hemisphere. This display is different in the reference 5023, with the moon accompanied by embossed stars, with respect to reference 5021. The accuracy of the lunar display is remarkable, and comparable to scientific instruments. The residual error has been calculated to reach one day's deviation only after 577 years.

The automatic movement has a 7-day power reserve. The white gold case, midnight blue dial, and rhodium-plated moon-phase indicator create a lovely contrast, and ensure effective legibility. The small seconds have the hacking function.

Three versions of reference 5023 are available: a platinum case with silver-colour dial; a red gold case with a silver-colour dial and a red-gold-plated moon on blue background; and a white gold case with rhodium-plated appliqués on a slate-colour dial with sun-pattern finish. The platinum version is made in a limited edition of 250 watches. Price depends on the version: the white gold version with slate-colour dial retails for around $41,100.

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IWC's Pilot's Watches collection

La Place de l’Opéra

Like a starburst, there are seven streets extending from the opera, each of which boasts an impressive range of luxury shopping and dining. Around the opera, visit the Lancel flagship boutique, where you can pick up one of their Le Brigitte Bardot handbags, or have a coffee at the Café de la Paix in the Intercontinental Paris Le Grand Hotel. South from the opera is Avenue de l’Opéra, where you’ll find Pierre Hermé macarons, a beautiful Hugo Boss flagship and other great boutiques. After a show at the Palais Garnier, stop by its newly opened restaurant and bar, L’Opéra, inside the east wing of the building (in the photo below).

Rue de la Paix

Between the opera and Place Vendôme is Rue de la Paix, built by Napoleon I 100 years before his grandson built the Palais Garnier. Paris’ very first couture house was established here by by Charles Frederick Worth in 1885. Today, known for its luxury jewellery stores, including Cartier and Tiffany & Co., this street is also home to the French ballet shoe maker Repetto, and luxury hotels such as the Park Hyatt Paris - Vendôme. In the photos below, Rue de la Paix, and the Repetto store.

Also located on Rue de la Paix is Montblanc’s flagship location. Their 2-storey, 500-square-metre store is the largest boutique in Europe offering exclusive collections, bespoke pieces, limited editions, precious and rare one-of-a-kind pieces. The boutique also includes Salons Privés for selected customers to discover Montblanc’s savoir-faire in privacy.

Les Capucines

Making a triangle with Rue de la Paix are Rue des Capucines and Boulevard des Capucines, one of Paris’ four grand boulevards. Here, enjoy dinner before the opera at gastronomic restaurant Les Jalles, or enjoy their bar, L’Etage, for an after-opera drink. Just above the boulevard is Rue Scribe, where you’ll find fine pastry and chocolate shops, and the French brand Maje’s boutique.

Spending a day exploring the beautiful shops and historic streets in the second arrondissement and an evening at the Palais Garnier is one of the best ways to enjoy Paris.

Off the beaten track

A few steps away from the grand boulevards around the Palais Garnier are a few gems worth discovering.

Bistro Volnay
8 Rue Volney, 75002 Paris 
Tel. +33 (0)1 4261 0665
A sophisticated gastronomic bistro decorated in Art Deco style and serving traditional French fare.

Bizan
56 Rue Sainte-Anne, 75002 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4296 6776
This bustling little street, known as ‘Little Tokyo,’ located just east of the Opera, is full of authentic Asian restaurants. LUXOS recommends Bizan for a refined, elegant Japanese meal.

Saturne
17 Rue Notre-Dame des Victoires, 75002 Paris
Tel. +33 (0)1 4260 3190
Heading directly east from the Palais Garnier, down Rue du Quatre-Septembre, you will come upon several small streets. Here you will find a truly incredible gastronomic gem. At Saturne, the innovative Nouveau French cuisine is served by the knowledgable staff amidst modern décor.

Read more:
Repetto shoes, Paris
The Montblanc Princesse Grace de Monaco collection
The Montblanc Régulateur Nautique marine watch and clock
Paris city guide

Rows and rows of Han dynasty-inspired white marble railings that elegantly line the entire lakefront are contrasted by rocks of all strange shapes and forms dotting the shore. Members of ancient China’s Beile noble family and well-known personalities from that period used to call Houhai home. Today, you can still see their historic residences, where almost every courtyard had very tall, old trees reaching into the sky. What’s different now is that most of these houses have been transformed into modern homes, with typical light grey automated garage doors.

Yinding Bridge links Houhai’s north and south shores. A rock painted with the name of the bridge beckons you to come observe a unique sight. On a clear day, you can see Xishan (which literally means ‘west mountain’) in the distance from the top of this bridge. This sight, referred to as 'mountain viewing from Yinding' in Chinese, is one of Beijing’s famous 'eight wonders.' Head northeast from this bridge where you will find many bars and restaurants. Why not pick a sofa seat on the terrace, kick back and watch the sun set while enjoying refreshing drinks?

You can also rent a tandem bicycle and go for a pleasant ride around the lake. Hire a rickshaw and experience Beijing the nostalgic way. Your driver will take you through the hutongs - Beijing’s historic alleys that are quickly disappearing due to rapid urbanization – and recount stories of the capital’s old days.

The locals love Houhai for many different reasons. Office workers go there for a drink at the bar after a long day of work, while couples linger on this lake for its romantic atmosphere. It is also an ideal spot to get together with a few friends or row a boat in the cool evenings. Among the locals, you will without doubt notice foreign tourists in full travel gear as well.

On the water, rowing boats, paddle boats and boats with black awnings (modern replicas of ancient China’s ‘wupeng chuan’) slowly float by. The most striking vessels are without doubt the sampans decorated with red lanterns. Reminiscent of the Summer Palace’s great Marble Boat, these sampans are a wonderful way to enjoy Houhai. At the bow, a lady dressed in period costume plays a characteristic Chinese musical instrument called a Guqin, while a sailor sculls lazily at the stern.

As night falls, Houhai transforms into a magical place. The cool breeze seems to blow away the noise of the frantic day, clearing the night sky for the moon to shine through and paint the lake with a silver glow. As the bars open one by one, their red, green and purple neon lights illuminate the lakeshore and cast colour shadows on the still water. The sound of live music can be heard above the babel of languages spoken by international visitors, while their glasses of cold beer sparkle in the candlelight, like the stars in the sky... Houhai exerts a never-ending fascination.

A melodic song can be heard from one of the lone boats in the distance as the evening continues. Music on and offshore mingle into the late hours, creating a truly unique Beijingnese experience.

Meze by Lemon Tree is the latest instalment in a series of projects started by major cultural travel agency, KD Tours, which continues today at Bodrum favourite, The Lemon Tree Hotel. Having also studied archaeology and trained as a professional tour guide, Üçok worked at both venues, managing the kitchen in Bodrum in the summer and taking his guests around archaeological sites and the natural wonders of Turkey in the winter. For the past year, he’s been more or less stationed in his 38-seat meyhane, where he reinterprets some of our favourite meze dishes.

“If you want to understand this country, you will eat like we do because we are a food-oriented culture,” says the affable chef as the sun warms his simple and elegant restaurant through its multi-coloured stained glass windows. He tells me the story of a VIP, with whom he waited in line to get a döner sandwich in Kasımpaşa, one of the oldest and poorest neighborhoods of the city, and the executive who made the mistake of ordering an apple for lunch and getting grilled for it. Lately, he has become the go-to person in Istanbul for international foodies, food critics, chefs and restaurant owners, who want to sample and gain inspiration from the culinary delights of Turkey. Hence, the customized culinary tours he organizes in collaboration with KD Tours.

Have you noticed the mussels sold on round trays along sidewalks, or heard of the famous kokoreç (roasted lamb offal), which sparked protests under the threat of being banned by the European Union for hygiene standards? Üçok is the guy who knows where the best mussels and kokoreç are made in the city and will insist on taking you there. Just don’t expect to be seated at a table with white linens! If you’re up for the challenge, he will take you to new culinary heights, beyond your gourmet repertoire.

Üçok also has something for food connoisseurs with a professional bent and a green mind: personalized, interactive culinary tours in Anatolia. For example, starting from Istanbul and ending at the cute coastal town of Kuşadası, where the chef spent his childhood, the Aegean tour will take you from local farmers’ markets to fishermen’s stalls, from apple orchards to okra fields. Make sure to book ahead as this opportunity to immerse yourself in the abundance of the Aegean land comes up only in the fall and spring.

Meze by Lemon Tree
Meşrutiyet Caddesi, 83/B
Tepebaşı, Istanbul
Tel. +90 212 2528 302
gencay@kdtours.com
 

In Schaffhausen, during the early 20th century, the Homberger family’s passion for aviation led to the creation of IWC’s Special Pilot’s Watch in 1936, equipped with a wristwatch movement that measured flight time. Mr. Domhardt said that IWC went on to continue manufacturing watches for pilots in the 1940s. Today, luxury consumers appreciate pilot’s watches, which are worn by ‘normal’ people who like the legibility characteristic of these timepieces.

Domhardt and Hausler showed us the new collection this year with three new references in the Top Gun line, which includes two Miramars featuring in-house movements. The new Spitfire collection also has IWC-manufactured movements, and is more sophisticated than ever with a comfortable new bracelet that can be adjusted – one millimetre at a time with the press of a button, for up to six millimetres. The perpetual calendar, which used a limited edition piece, is now a permanent item. The Worldtimer is a brand new addition and can be easily adjusted to display different time zones. The new Pilot’s Watches collection not only offers more choices, it also features new materials like ceramic and titanium.

Hausler said that the greatest challenge was to put everything together as a complete and consistent collection, taking the time to improve each reference. The ceramic alone took weeks to source, for example, as IWC Schaffhausen wanted something that was unique but not too shiny. Researching and developing every detail means that two or three years would have passed before a collection is ready for marketing, Hausler explained.

He also pointed out that the Pilot’s Watches are created with everyone in mind. With such a great selection of sizes, materials and movements to choose from, watch lovers will find something they like, from the entry level Mark 17 to the grand complication Digital Perpetual Calendar.

Watch trends come and go; Domhardt and Hausler emphasized that IWC Schaffhausen does not run after passing fashion. While it does observe the world markets and changing tastes, its six well-established and highly regarded collections have proven over the past decades that they perfectly meet the needs of today’s luxury goods consumers and collectors.

In the photo below, the development of the Grande Seconde pocket watch over the centuries, including the wristwatch that has become the brand's iconic piece.

Click here to find Jaquet Droz own-brand stores

Madrid
Puro Placer Club (a play on words, as Puro Placer means 'pure pleasure' as well as 'cigar pleasure') is an example of smoking has managed to survive in Madrid notwithstanding EU regulations. The club has an attractive white and orange colour scheme, and the menu features wine, cocktails and champagnes. More importantly, there is a walk-in humidor where you can choose your preferred puro. The owner also runs Barquillo, a smoke shop a few steps away. C/ Prim 1, Madrid. Tel. +34 91 5214 480. Open from 4 p.m. until the early hours. Closed Sundays.

The Royal Smoking Club in Madrid is actually a private association, located adjacent to the Kerala gin club. Its objective is to make it possible to savour a fine smoke and a well-made cocktail. Kerala in fact claims the best gin and tonic in Madrid, and it has a wide selection of other cocktails and spirits. The membership fee is not much greater than the price of a drink. It is in the city's business district, not far from some of the best restaurants in the city. Calle del Nardo 6, 28029 Madrid. Tel. +34 91 5790 103, royalsmokingclub.com

Barcelona
Dry Martini is a classic, sophisticated bar, with a very high quality wine list and an excellent selection of cigars. They also make the best Mojito in Barcelona. The restaurant behind the bar, Speakeasy, is also well worth a visit. C/Aribau 162-166, Eixample, Barcelona. Tel. +34 93 2175 072

Gimeno is a famous cigar store, located opposite the market La Boqueria, at Ramblas 100. The store stocks virtually all the lines of Cuban cigars imported by Altadis. There are fine display cabinets on the ground floor, and a walk-in humidor in the basement. Ramblas 100, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. +(34) 933 020 983

Barcelona Pipa Club, in the Gothic quarter, is an interesting venue, cigar club during the day and a bar by night. Pipe smoking courses are held regularly and are open to anyone interested in learning the art of pipe smoking.
Barcelona Pipa Club, Plaça Reial 3, Barcelona. Tel. +34 93 3011 165

A final note: the Prado in Madrid provides historical proof that the capital city has been tolerant to cigar smokers for hundreds of years. Goya's paintings frequently include cigars. The name of the painter is also the name of a local product, Goya cigars, made in the Canary Islands. Puro placer!

It's very sculptural, with sequences of layers including some semi-transparent treatments, and very painterly, as in a beautiful long dress in white voile that looks as if it has been dipped in red watercolour at one end, so that the colour is all on the straps and tops, merging in diaphanous purity.

Add some sophisticated fabrics and print patterns, and the palette is complete, principally white, yellow, red, green and black. The show was arranged so that the predominant white of the first looks morphed to red and yellows before moving towards aquatic themes with green and blue, and the final gowns in black. In some garments, the texture of the fabric recalls the scales of fish, producing a curious mermaid effect heightened by the glinting reflections. In others, the striped, geometrical areas have something in common with the ribbing of fish fins.

The Missoni DNA is still there, but we are presented with a microscope analytical view. With stunning results.

The accessories include bags with white cross-body straps, and shades that sometimes look like swimming goggles, adding to the mermaid effect of some looks. Chunky bracelets and choker necklaces in transparent crystal.

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The vicinity boasts a number of Jumeirah luxury hotels lining the beachfront. These include the world famous Burj Al Arab which is located offshore on a manmade island and includes such coveted culinary destinations as Muntaha, located 200 metres above sea level where you can enjoy delicious seafood specialities. Sahn Eddar, the hotel’s spot for afternoon tea and signature desserts such as caramelized pecan chocolate cake and macadamia nuts dipped in 24-carat gold leaf. At the Jumeirah Beach Hotel, enjoy such esteemed restaurants as La Parilla featuring Argentinean cuisine and live Tango dancers coupled with mesmerizing scenic views of the Arabian Gulf. After relishing your meal, hit 360°, a stylish rooftop lounge offering catchy DJ tunes and one of Dubai’s all-time favourite nightspots, or try Mahiki, its recently opened Polynesian-themed club.

Also located at Jumeirah Beach Hotel is the revered sports centre The Pavilion Marina and Sports Club offering tailor-made programmes to clients of different fitness levels, spa treatments and exhilarating water sports. On the beachfront is the Madinat Jumeirah consisting of three luxurious 5-star hotels: Mina A’Salam, Al Qasr, home to the renowned spa and wellness centre Talise Spa; Dar Al-Masyaf, also known as Souk Madinat Jumeirah, which includes residences, a shopping area created in the manner of a traditional Arabic souk, and a pier which extends out into the Arabian Gulf boasting such restaurants of calibre as Pier Chic, known for its seafood.

Before Dubai’s hot summer months, spend an afternoon at Wild Wadi Water Park. Themed around the Arabic folklore characters of Juha and Sinbad, families can enjoy 30 adrenaline-charged rides and five children-friendly restaurants. For a cultural excursion, visit the Jumeirah Mosque. One of Dubai’s major landmarks, the mosque was built in the medieval Fatimid style and features a stone structure made of modern materials in a tribute to Islamic architecture. Known as one of the most beautiful mosques in Dubai, the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding organizes regular visits to the Jumeirah Mosque for non-Muslims. It is a place of history, Islamic tradition and cultural exchange.

While you can easily spend countless days perusing the vicinity of Jumeirah Beach and its glamorous hotels and restaurants, watching the sunset on the beach is equally as luxurious and special, letting you relish the beauty of this marvellous area.

Combinations of reptile leather with deep blue or red block colour were very striking. The overall atmosphere ranged from light and feminine to unashamedly masculine with tuxedo-like trouser suits complete with satin lapels. And sometimes these two aspects were mixed and matched, with black leather tops and ankle boots creatiing a tough biker look, contrasting with a softly-swaying skirt.

Details include large asymmetric pockets on the tops, open-fronted skirt with shorts underneath, blouses with male-style collars buttoned to the top, reptile leather jackets, large wrap-around shades, large colour-coordinated bags and suitcases.

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Maier's collection includes some references to some of the season's overall trends, such as the floral patterns, the femininity, tassels, and touches of transparency, but it is very much a self-referencing creative tour-de-force, in which the garments can only truly be appreciated from close-up. The detailing is amazing, and likewise the craftsmanship, with different prints artfully combined, seams superbly finished, in some cases with leather edging with discreet studs. Fabrics are also complex and elaborate.

The cloth is cut fairly close, and this highlights the wearer, with discreetly padded shoulders, cinched waist and full hips. The outcome is that everything is utterly wearable. There is something in the collection for every woman, or, to put it differently, there is nothing for which they could say, "Beautiful, but I could never wear that."

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