The world of watches has its own gradual evolution which operates on a longer timescale than fashion. One of the major trends is a new focus on watches for women, with a greater attention to real needs. Though a lot of women’s watches are still quartz, brands are increasingly fitting their timepieces with automatic movements, often with a sapphire caseback that adds to the fascination of the piece. At the same time, women’s watches are now slightly larger, while men’s pieces are getting a little smaller. You could almost say that all this is part of the constant crossover between men and women that can be seen most in fashion, blurring the boundaries. But in watches, the sumptuous design of Bulgari’s LVCEA, for example, is so iconic that it could only be feminine, and likewise the pure poetry of Van Cleef & Arpels’ flower-embellished pieces.
LVCEA is fast becoming one of Bulgari’s signature watch collections, with its deceptively simple, classical design, the Serpenti-inspired bracelet, and the cabochon gemstone crown set with a diamond. The new models presented in 2015 include a series of coloured straps and diamond-set bezels, and new 36-mm diameter models in addition to the classic 33mm version. The mechanical self-winding movement provides a 42-hour power reserve, and the watch is water-resistant to 50 metres. www.bulgari.com
Tiffany & Co.
With the Tiffany CT60 collection, the brand famous for its jewellery returns to watchmaking; in the late 19th century their watch department was so successful that they had their own factory in the centre of Geneva. The new collection is entirely based on a Tiffany watch worn by President F.D. Roosevelt, and even in the jewelled 34 mm version for women, it has a wholly American logic, supremely legible in every situation. The self-winding mechanical movement has a power reserve of 42 hours. www.tiffany.com
Van Cleef & Arpels
The brand’s poetic approach to timekeeping is perfectly expressed by their series of Charms Extraordinaire Langage des Fleurs watches, three pieces that speak messages of love by means of the language of flowers, depicted on the dial using sculpted mother-of-pearl that is then hand-painted, with the background created using cabochonné enameling. This miniature work of art is framed by a bezel set with diamonds and other precious stones, and the watch is finished by a charm that matches the flower composition on the dial and spins playfully around the caseband. www.vancleefarpels.com