Bright bags, animal print shoes, and artful, handmade garments: Milan's Fashion Week was a love letter to Italian craftsmanship artisanal design and nostalgia (see the seventies trend on every catwalk), rather than sexed-up fashion; the true decadence was in the details.
Brights at Bvlgari
This weekend's catwalks and presentations saw a resurgence of both colour-blocking and intricate design in various collections. Bvlgari's preview was overflowing with precious stones, animal skins and colour. Once again the brand's signature serpent adorned every piece, which have all been updated and altered for it's vastly different client base. There is a python Musa bag that is only available in the UAE, and the Parisians favourite square clutch, as well as new sunglasses, scarves that scream sophisticated glamour. The craftsmanship may be Italian, but this collection has an international focus that is designed for all.
A Sea View at Hogan and Giorgio Armani
While the previous days saw catwalks awash with blues and greens, Emporio Armani's main collection was all about a neutral palette, nudes, sand, shells and ivory. Next season will be all about nautical comfort, loose, floaty, girly fabrics. Dresses had a deep V-neck and nipped in waist, while the fine, soft fabrics grazed knees and ankles. For the smart-set, there are tailored jackets, semi-sheer fabrics and accessories in burnished gold, antique metallic and white.
At Hogan, Simon Holloway's collection completed the brand's easy-luxury take on the fashion world. Monogrammed white, royal blue, grey and cream adorned the models in loose dresses, two piece suits and sleek knee-length skirts. The show was held in the recently refurbished Parco Solari swimming pool, adding adding to the watery influence on the footwear of this season, (at Friday's presentation Cesare Casadei's said he'd been inspired by the 1969 French film 'La Piscine', which lead to gold, silver and clogs). Every piece evoked a high-leisure holiday, smart dresses for on-and-off the yacht, flippy dresses and of course numerous sandals...
...No mention of Hogan would be complete without mention their shoes: mirrored leather wedges, lace-up heels, soft flats, and sporty, glittery trainers, there is little they can't create to look super chic yet simple and fresh. Hogan made Milan Fashion Week what it was all about, easy, wearable fashion with an elegant, superior edge.
Bolds at Marni
Much of what Marni does now is about anti-glamour, there are no sparkles, glitter or unwearable looks here. A Marni girl is all about the edge, the quirk and the attitude. No wonder then, that Sunday morning's show displayed bold, slightly grungy block colours, flats, and lots of flowers, again referencing the huge seventies trend we've seen all over Milan this season. Consuela Constigliani even shunned the traditional trend for after show parties, instead celebrating her collection with a flower market on Milan's Via Montenapolne, available to every one and all proceeds go to charity.