Perhaps it was a preternatural inclination that following yesterday's Missoni show, Friday in Milan should be all about the natural, ethereal and romantic. Missoni's Barbie's that graced last night's catwalk couldn't have been in greater contrast to what was witnessed this morning at both Blumarine and Ermanno Scervino: a whirlwind of textures, colours, shapes and volume starred in the latter's spring/summer collection. A parade of raffia coats and dresses in bright greens and blues with woven gold were first up, beginning the 3D trend the designer pivoted around.
Coats, skirts, suits and dresses followed, all in neutral colours; sartorially cut, but ultra-feminine, with nipped-in waists and low V, or U cut tops and jackets. The highlight of the show was Scervinno's summer coats, loose, but beautifully executed, inserted with lace, twill and 3D flowers. And get ready for those pedicures ladies, next spring will be all about the thin soled, high-heeled strappy sandal, jewel-encrusted (across the toe and up the Achilles tendon) for true elegance. The finale oozed high fashion and sex-appeal, Victoria's Secret Ambassador Izabel Goulart walked the final look: a skin-tight dress in shimmering metal, adorned with a lengthy mermaid train, not for the fainthearted.
The models' make-up was similarly ethereal, reminiscent of Victorian buns, with tendrils fuzzed up and pulled out and braids on top. The girliest of all the shows so far, Scervinno is part Shakespearean Ophelia, part Roman Holiday, but wholly, truly a return to Italian style at its best.
So many seventies collections in Milan, but it wasn't until this afternoon, half way through fashion week here and fashion month worldwide, that the vibe really took shape. Undoubtedly this trend is the Apulian house's forte above all others, and they didn't fail to deliver, even the invitations were fringed. A lot of paisley, a bohemian vibe and some American Indian motifs thrown in for good measure.
Fringing fell from cowboy-buckskin boots, jackets and ponchos as Jim Morrison's idiosyncratic melodies boomed across the runway. The Doors USA travel-inspired lyrics were a clear influence on the collection, with beads, feathers and amulets hanging from necks, hips and ears. Etro's trademark paisley swirled through every piece, in primary colours and white. This was a retro, festivally collection that decreed casual luxury with all the ease of a warm summer breeze. Again the strappy sandals were a notable trend, a nod to the high-fashion value of this casual collection, and it was refreshing to see models with loose, natural hair, and paired-back make-up, a stark contrast to the highly put together looks exhibited elsewhere.
Casadei, the Italian shoe brand has also jumped on the nostalgia bandwagon, with chunky, fringed wedges, wooden heeled sandals with large flowers and contrasting colours.
The first thing you notice when you see the new Bally collection is a eye-popping array of bright, bold blocked colour, and a collection of accessories that bring you back to school with a vengeance. The Swiss brand's s/s15 sees many of its iconic pieces updated and resized: their classic tote now comes in three sizes and some very exotic skins and designs. Their 'gentleman's' loafer comes in burgundy and dusky pink, with the classic Bally buckle added on top for an androgynous, sharp look.
Bally is due to open its flagship store on Bond Street on 22nd October, and a British, masculine vein here is clear to see. Boxy skirts and trench coats were showcased in leather and pony skin, sexed-up with crisp low-cut white shirts and glitter inserted into seems and linings.
The French bag company has delivered as usual, and where to start with their electric collection of PVC, Japanese inspired holdalls, minis and totes? First up, most notably were their 'sponged' bags, of which only a hundred have been made. Flashes of yellow, red and green were dripped over the black candy bags. New additions also included a leather backpack, punctured and studded as well as a classic-looking envelope bag in quintessential screaming brights.
Following Dsquared's lead, the classic totes come in a variety of block colours, as well as cartoon inspired pieces. Strange faces gaze at you from the sides of the metropolis bags, whereas true fashionistas will love the Furla Mini, a phone-only sized tote that can be attached to any larger number.
While Friday may not have been groundbreaking, there is still Versace and Philip Plein tonight for that, nothing debuted today was on a whim. Slick, cool and ultra-feminine, Friday brought Milan up to speed in no time.
Read more: Latest from SS15 Fashion Week