Things we loved from London Fashion Week this weekend

Dame Vivienne's stand for Scottish independence was a highlight of her show, and Marchesa's first show in ten years brought some ethereal embellishment to the proceedings. 

by 15 September 2014

 

Designer Vivienne Westwood's preview for her label's S/S15 collection reads more like a manifesto than a runway summary. Her Red label has always been about Tartan; liberating it from its traditional roots and re-interpreting it in innovative forms. Such is her artistic liberty.

Vivienne Westwood Red Label s/s15Vivienne6

 Last night, she sought to liberate Tartan once again, using the runway as a podium for her views on the impending vote for Scottish independence. Guests arrived to find political tracts on all their seats and models wore YES buttons reflecting her wish to see Scotland separate from Britain. The vote over Scottish independence is a hugely sensitive emotional and political debate across the entire Kingdom right now, and Dame Westwood chose her moment carefully.

 

viv.w.yes-vote-photoLUXOS was particularly amused by one model with the label "ironic" stenciled on her forehead. In 1992, Westwood was awarded an OBE, before earning a Dame-hood in December 2005. Both are the highest honours the United Kingdom can grant an individual, and both are presented at Buckingham Palace. For someone who announced today that she "hates" England, we find that pretty ironic.

The collection in fact, had limited tartan but included chic, bold oversized jackets, wide lapel blouses, lots of print and lovely, long frilly frocks with floral motifs, extreme make-up and a few fake tattoos. It was typical Westwood. And so were her antics.

Marchesa

We are still swooning over the Marchesa s/s15 collection of gossamer-like dresses with pale floral patterns, punctuated with a cool, contemporary fringe. The collection was mixed, starting with a few contemporary folk pieces, with a rock dynasty edge, no doubt the offspring of various iconic rockers will be debuting this at Glasto next year.

     Marchesa s/s15

 Less typical of the brand but still interesting was the white short tuxedo jacket with an Asian-inspired phoenix pattern on a short starched balloon skirt. Variations in lace and chiffon, as trousers, as a short dress, were imminently wearable. Throughout the collection, the genius of the textile creations shone bright. British born Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig have built a fashion empire defined by elegant evening wear and the s/s15 showed their talents at their best.

Read more: Latest from SS15 Fashion Week