The designers at Trussardi seem to be having an identity crisis, of the very best kind. Their show at men's fashion week in Milan exposed a myriad of inspirations all thrown together to produce a progressive collage of formal taste, jagged masculinity and bright young things energy.
The 30s are back
It's not just the jazz age that contributed to the collection, Trussardi has reassessed the traditional suit: thick and thin pinstriped trousers and suits mixed with jersey and a lot of leather for a modern twist. Trouser sit looser and in thinner material whereas jackets have a classic tailored fit and the traditional 'nipped-in' waist that holds true to the fashion houses' Italian roots.
Africa is a thing again
Banana leaves, indigo blue fabrics, mis-matched pockets and lovely leather bags – the African jungle style was big at Trussardi. The S/S15 collection is primarily a work-wear collection, but the use of tribal and travel motifs give a sense of balance to the masculine cut of the suits. This captures a sense escapism and a visual beauty that is distinctive and dramatic. Taking the colours of the tribe and transferring them to a suit setting is bold move, and for Gaia Trussardi, this nod to a more casual dressing style is certainly a wise one.
Rude elegance is still with us, but this time it's moved on a decade or two from last years' muse, Jay Gatsby. The suit has new proportions; the '30s sophisticated cut is mixed with bomber jackets and eyewear of the beat generation. Throw in a range of new accessories, chunky sandals and heavy slip-ons, shiny structured bags and cool floaty raincoats and this collection is one that brings a sense of drama to the everyday wardrobe.