Ports 1961, fall/winter 2014-15 women's collection

At the Ports 1961 fall/winter 2014-15 show in Milan, the models were like black and white queens of the chessboard, regally clad in garments that expressed power.

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21 February 2014

Tia Cibani’s styles for next winter include many Ports 1961 hallmarks such as the dominance of black and white, the complexity created by design features such as multiple pockets cut into complex geometrical shapes, busy pleating, flaps of fabric running in surprising directions, overalls with top folded down, fur cuffs, and special attention dedicated to the layered neckline details, often finished with an unusual spiky choker.

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Skirts are nearly all below the knee or down to the ankles. The show began and ended with the audio of Charlotte Rampling describing the photo shoot in which she was immortalized by Helmut Newton, and that sort of unfathomable, mysterious power was expressed by a lot of military looks, trench coats, wide leather belts, softened by more romantic garments and some oversize fur stoles.

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 The collection included a new reinterpretation of the brand’s classic No. 10 blouse, founder Luke Tanabe’s signature piece back in the 1960s, and now also extended to the No. 10 bag.

Tia Cibani is very much a ‘grandmaster’ of the fashion chessboard, and at the end of the show, she acknowledged the applause with the aplomb that comes from the confidence of having made the right moves.