Men's fashion fall winter 2014-15: it's all in the details

The fall/winter 2014 shows in Milan showed that style is looser, more relaxed, less tailored, less tightly coordinated, with accents provided above all by the accessories.

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04 February 2014

Starting with shoes, which are layers on layers of details, different materials, textures, studs, coloured laces. Fratelli Rossetti's classic black shoes are given luscious decadence with velvet and satin. Hogan's are tough and bikerish. JImmy Choo's have meandering velvety patterns.

Up top, the velvet and the fur trims the collars and lapels (Hogan again), layer over layer, with a touch of light provided by an unbuttoned wing collar, perhaps with an informal tie made by knotting an Indian silk scarf (Boglioli). Head gear, as original as possible, borrowed from sports or 1950s styles.

In between, swathes of loose fabric, with detail that can only appreciated from close-up, such as carefully-treated fabrics made using traditional industrial techniques (Boglioli, Pal Zileri).

Coordination has gone out of the window, replaced by ironic – or iconic – touches. Shoes that match sunglasses. Socks that connect to a handkerchief in the top pocket. A bright red clutch coordinating with a bright red tie (John Richmond). Or just a single, dramatic unanswered question, such as orange soles that bring light to every step you take.

Shoes are one of the details, and here there are details within details. Italy's cohorts of pedal-extremity flash seem to have been spying and counterspying, because the models by Giuseppe Zanotti Design, Cesare Paciotti, Alberto Moretti, Sergio Rossi et al have certain characteristics in common. Oversized motifs, whether chains, zips or clasps. Lots of velvet, pony, animalier print. Sophisticated treatment of materials. Chunky soles. Superlight. A lot of sports-mountaineering references.

And the colour? In the fall/winter 2014-15 season, there aren't the electric-bright hues that hallmarked spring/summer 2014 men's trends. It's returned to the classics, black, grey, white, with touches of brown and bordeaux, as well as violet, which, as Yvan Benbanaste of Pal Zileri said, "... is the new black."