This show is why fashion remains a privileged form of communication and performance, even in today's digital age. The combination of beautiful garments, beautiful people, music and video is a unique experience, particularly when the quality is at the level of Ermenegildo Zegna, with design by Stefano Pilati.
On a circular runway, with an audio-video installation by Johan Söderberg and piano music by French composer Maxence Cyrin, the sequence of looks demonstrated Pilati's brilliant reinterpretation of classical styles. Outergarments in the dominant colours of beige, grey, dark blue and dark red are soft and supple, with generous forms that create a sensation of warmth even with cool colours such as a light steely blue.
The details are fascinating: a glimpse of a small scarf just projecting from inside the jacket; a remarkable cuff treatment apparently created by rolling back extra-long T-shirt sleeves worn underneath, a superb touch of innovation within an overall classical masculine style; a patterned shirt that matches the overcoat. Suits in which the jacket doesn't necessarily match the trousers. A spectacular biker jacket in beige with a myriad of bronze studs. The multiple layers of shirt, jacket and overcoat in a brilliant harmony of green, brown and grey. A beautiful judo-like jacket and belt.
Some of the onlookers were puzzled about the weight of the garments – after all, it's a spring-summer collection. But the fabrics are light, and altogether ideal for the new uncertainties of today's meteorology, with springs that (in places like the U.K.) feel positively wintry. But there were some safari looks with shorts, ideal for higher temperatures.
A fantastic collection, with a huge amount of creativity perfectly incorporated into the wonderful world of Ermenegildo Zegna's elegance, which in turn, at the show itself, melded into the fascinating video (with details of the loom machinery on which Ermenegildo Zegna's production is based) and music. It gave the impression that the combination of digital technology, industry, and human creativity can get the heart racing. If you have a spare 15 minutes, I recommend watching the film below. It definitely puts you at peace with the world of fashion.
Photos courtesy of style.com
Spring/summer 2014 men's collection trends