Trussardi - spring 2013

Bright colour blocking and material contrasts

by

Writer

Wow, it's colour. Umit Benan's spring 2013 women's ready-to-wear runway show was set on a New York rooftop scene complete with graffiti, but this somewhat dark atmosphere contrasted with the looks which were sunny and bright. Above all, primrose yellow, with variations in the same look, and then black, brick red, white, and some splendid ultramarine blues. The style had touches of the 1970s, with trouser suits including a sharply-tailored yellow version with double-breasted jacket, as well as more relaxed outfits with roomy blouse tops. Two of the most attractive looks feature suits with knee-length skirts, one based on an attractive floral print in white, grey and primrose, and another a symphony of billowing whites and off-whites.

Combinations of reptile leather with deep blue or red block colour were very striking. The overall atmosphere ranged from light and feminine to unashamedly masculine with tuxedo-like trouser suits complete with satin lapels. And sometimes these two aspects were mixed and matched, with black leather tops and ankle boots creatiing a tough biker look, contrasting with a softly-swaying skirt.

Details include large asymmetric pockets on the tops, open-fronted skirt with shorts underneath, blouses with male-style collars buttoned to the top, reptile leather jackets, large wrap-around shades, large colour-coordinated bags and suitcases.

 

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