Ermanno Scervino - spring 2013

Hawaii meets flamenco in a collection in black, white, coral red, orange, yellow and brown

by

Writer

20 September 2012

Not a trace of print anywhere, just pure colour cadenced by rippling ruches and openwork creating Baroque volutes across the figure. On the runway, the frills and tassels shimmer and shake creating an incessant flutter, like a thousand summer butterflies or the skirts of a tropical jellyfish. But there is no trace of sea: the colours are all warm and fiery, bright coral, yellow and orange evoking hot spices, with interesting chromatic details such as yellow inside the pleats of an otherwise all-orange dress. The only cool shades are a light violet and a palish brown.

Garment typologies are juxtaposed, with fringers that create a skirt on a full-length crochet dress. A spectacular evening gown in white has an interesting detail, with a diagonal strap that leads down to one cup while the other is covered in glittering Swarovski, or, in the yellow version below, with an openwork layer.

Accessories include heavy crystal earrings worn with the evening gowns, sandals with wooden wedges, mini-bags on long shoulder chains, and larger bags in gold-frosted stamped ostrich.

Matteo Renzi, Mayor of Florence and prospective leader of Italy's largest left-wing party, was in the front row. I guess he appreciated all that red!

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