Moschino always means a healthy touch of irony and irreverence, part of Franco M.'s DNA, and the spring-summer 2012 collection by Rossella Giardini, at the Milan shows, is no exception. While her fall-winter 2011-2012 collection had a touch of maritime flavour, this time, she has gone for tassels, tassels everywhere, short, long, superlong, tassels on tassels. Of course, the collection is not just this, but there is a lot of Spain, Carmen, flamenco and bullfighters, plus a little bit of Wild West, and Mediterranean sensuality. Occasional touches of the Charleston 1930s, with auntie-glasses shades (pointed elliptic with strass on the top edge), and strictly-disciplined hairdos contrasting with soaring, amazing headgear in the form of monochrome fabric flowers.
The colours are primarily yellow, gold, white, black, and that's it! The success of the collection can be gauged from the incredible variety that has been generated from such a restricted palette. Bullfighter-type jackets range from versions with rich embroidery decoration to more minimalist interpretations, in which the braid detailing is replaced by simple fabric inserts in cream white. Another jacket has the Moschino heart motif on the shoulder. The torero look is completed by a black headpiece, and the jewellery includes lovely large gold earrings that swing sensually with the model's every step.
Another tassel theme is that of the cowboy, or cowgirl, with the classic stetson, in black of course, and trousers with long tassels. Walking becomes a piece of visual theatre with clothes like this! Particularly when the cowgirl looks features light tan hot pants.
Day and evening dresses show a different theme, with lines that follow the body more closely. The superb white fabric with differentiated translucence develops into pleats and ruches reminiscent of flamenco skirts, with coordinated clutch. Other dresses are simpler, 1930s type, with monochromatic white fabric and rationalist style contrasting, for example, with a spectacular wide multicolour belt and bag with multicoloured ruches to match. A yellow dress in metallized-finish fabric provides a note of Mediterranean warmth, and this is a constant feature of the collection, in which the jewellery includes crucifixes as a constant, along with large-beaded necklaces following the deep decolleté.
An interesting contrast is provided by a look with a black leather biker jacket, brimming with flower power, peace and love decoration.
Other details include heavy bangle bracelets in plain black or yellow, a tiny micro-bag, and shoes with gladiator-type ankle straps. Olé, Moschino, we can't get enough of it! Bravo!
Follow this link to see a list of Moschino boutiques
See the Milan Fashion Show spring-summer 2012 schedule with links to listings