Brioni sticks to basic luxury for women's Fall/Winter 2011-2012 Featured

A report from the Brioni runway at Milan Fashion Week
by 28 February 2011


The House of Brioni kept things simple and elegant for their new Fall/Winter collection. For his second season as Brioni Creative Director, the famous Italian fashion designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua decided to accentuate the luxurious and eliminate the superfluous.

Dell'Acqua reinterprates the essential pieces of a women's wardrobe with a modern touch – with an emphasis on softness in the vast use of cashmere throughout the entire collection.

The Materials
Cashmere, duchess silk and a stunning caramel-coloured matte crocodile are featured throughout the new collection Certain pieces that stood out for us used a black devoré lace-effect print or a Macramé lined with Chantilly lace. The lace pieces were significantly fewer and always much appreciated when they made an appearance on the runway either in the form of a sheer blouse paired with a blazer and trousers or a mini dress done entirely in black Chantilly lace. Silk Georgette with clusters of tiny pyrite stones was another rare material that made its debut later on down the runway in the form of long sleeved shirts and dresses. Fur is present for coats and outwear with examples such as several waist length full sleeved pieces in various different furs and prints, to longer coats that are inventively mixed with black cashmere to give a two looks in one feel.

The Brioni Silhouette
This new season's silhoutte is all about vertical and severe lines that start at the shoulder and soften as they go down the female figure. It's all about structure for the Brioni woman with a straight cut jacket and skirt or a pair of clean cut trousers. Simple V-neck, knee-length dresses in cashmere make it easy to achieve an everyday elegance.

What caught our eye were dresses and skirts done in a pleated or layered tulle and chiffon. The fabrics and cut allow a woman the ability to move with grace. Peek-a-boo backs also gave a classic outfit, a seductive angle so the Brioni woman can play both demure and suggestive with the turn of a shoulder. Dell'Aqua says the designs are contemporary, reminiscent of the 70s disco era, but much more focused on relaxed elegance than the cut.

New F/W Colours
The base Brioni palette consists of neutral and flesh tones, browns, beiges, greys, iconic black and dusty pink. The collection's pop out colours include violet and fuchsia which appear in the form of silk dresses, waist jackets, blouses and trousers.

Accessories
The big and bold honey-coloured horshoe necklace was a stand out piece for us as it reflected well against the warmer coloured garments in the collection. The Brioni shoes is a monochrome coloured platform stiletto with a golden heel.

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