Italian Heritage brand Trussardi 1911 is celebrating its centennial this year with a tribute to the brand's 1960's archive. The look is chic and effortless,
The M(il)an behind Trussardi
It is as if Trussardi's Creative Director Milan Vukmirovic was destined to bring the Italian heritage brand into its centenary. Vukimoric has been in his current role since 2008, also serving as director of magazines L'Officiel Homme and L'Officiel Homme Italia. For the brand's new Fall/Winter women's collection, Vukmirovic studied the vast Trussardi archives from 1911 to present. He decided to stop in the sixties where he reinterpreted the determined and mysterious female spirit of the era into a modern, sensuous and elegant look. The result is a minimalist chic look with spontaneous accents like a flash of red, crocodile leather or striped calf fur. Vukmirovic's muse for the new collection is Faye Dunaway circa The Thomas Crown Affair.
Materials & Styles
The new Trussardi collection boasts leather and fur as its topliners. Leather and fur have long been the specialities of the Trussardi house. The materials are all worked and finished by hand and either embroidered, braided or fringed depending on the garment or accessory. Leather is ever-present throughout the collection lining jacket lapels, on trouser and skirt buckles and vests trimmed with wool.
The styles alternate between slim and oversized silhouettes including knee-length skirts and flared or skinny trousers. Vukmirovic plays with garments inspired by menswear with a distinctively feminine touch in the form of straight cuts, oversized proportions and deconstructed pieces. The collection also borrows aspects from the rocker and biker worlds with the presence of black leather, top-stitching, metal studs, Mongolian lamb fur on skirts or jackets and a sexy bustier to go with it. Handmade leather inserts in the garments give a trendy accent to shirts done in jersey and wool.
Our favourite evening look was a long white silk and chiffon dress with mermaid train, decorated with a funky hand-made black organza fringe.
Trussardi's new line of handbags are designed in geometric shapes embellished with accents like calf fur, python, deer leather and suede. The styles include vachetta totes, hobo bags, doctor bags and evening clutches in satin and suede. The materials used in the handbags are also used for footwear and belts to match up looks – a trend we've seen a lot of for the coming season.
Read a list of Trussardi 1911 boutiques worldwide
Read an article on the Trussardi 1911 men's runway fashion shows for the fall-winter 2011-2012 collection