Seeing double: Giuliano Fujiwara at the fall-winter 2011-2012 men's collections Featured

An original take on the season's features produces some of the most interesting latest urban fashions
by 20 January 2011

Giuliano Fujiwara is a brand that debuted at Milano Collezioni in 1986, presenting its minimalism. Masataka Matsumura became designer at Giuliano Fujiwara in 2005. 2011 is an important year for the brand, because it is the 25th anniversary, which will be marked by an international event, and a special edition at the launch of the spring-summer 2012 men's collection. The brand has stores in Tokyo, Milan, Taipei and Shanghai. At the Milan store, the Electore facial beauty treatment procedure is offered, based on the bioelectrical activity of cells. Cooperation with international celebrities includes Fabio Fazio (TV programme "Che tempo che fa"), Jay Z, Kayne West, and Lady Gaga.

There was a lot of black in the collection, of course, in line with the future trends identified for fall-winter 2011-2012, but brightened by strawberry/salmon and violet blue in the chunky shoes with oversize detailing, and with some beige garments. A lot of originality, in a presentation held in a long corridor with Neoclassical gilt stucco work, in a building on Corso Venezia 48, Milan.
The look is based on multiple layers, including an interesting skirt-like garment with lots of pockets worn over the short-cut trousers. The latter leave the shins exposed above the large and ironic shoes. In a more formal look, beige trousers contrast with a navy blue jacket and tie, but with a lovely overcoat, again with lots of pockets and some intriguing detailing, coordinated with the trousers in terms of colour. A beautiful double-breasted trench coat has double lapels that creates a strange optical effect. The style is about being prepared for anything, with garments that almost double up as bags or even suitcases, ideal for our obsession with saving time in transport and not checking in any luggage. Matsumura acknowledges influence from vintage military and workwear, and it is possibly the latter that produced the abundance of pockets at the waist and inside and outside coats and jackets.

Accessories are also larger than life, with sunglasses reminiscent of the 1950s with colourful, oversize frames and arms, a hat based on the riding cap pattern. Shoes feature thick soles (a reference to Brit punk) and exaggerated kilties. All in all, an intriguing and creative collection, offering sophisticated luxury streetwear to a cosmopolitan, young-at-heart man.