As part of the runway fashion shows for the fall/winter 2011/2012 men's collection, Costume National presented their take on the season in what has become their customary type of location, disused industrial buildings converted into gigantic exhibition spaces, repainted and revisited with style and polish. The Scala Ansaldo workshops became the stage for the runway fashion show for this relatively recent Milanese brand.
For this collection, creative director Ennio Capasa presents a man with style but with a touch of rebellion, exploiting the Maison's tailoring skills and the power of the Italian knitwear industry to create a new concept of creativity. This style intends to move ahead from the usual symbols of male elegance such as shirt and tie, by devising a more sporty image based on a combination of colours and textiles, incorporating various types of leather and wool.
The knitwear garments feature brushed mohair in a two-colour diagonal pattern that appears subtly in jackets and coats. The techniques used in their construction are both traditional and technological, sometimes abandoning normal sewing and adopting experimental techniques such as heat bonding and laser work. The striped effect of the thermo-bonded Parkas was sophisticated and attractive, creating reflections that enhanced forms and provided a futuristic touch.
In this collection, accessories were transformed to meet the needs of contemporary men, who require technological accessories that have to be protected and displayed. This means clutch bags for laptops and documents, expanding day-bags, and iPad cases in elephant skin. Leather shoes and boots became a dominant feature, large and chunky, in matt black and grey calfskin, sometimes with decorative fringes.
The colours chosen by Costume National are generally neutral, with various shades of greys and black creating attractive light-dark contrasts, with naval and military colours that remind one of 1980s British punk, and moving right through to mink and ochre. Knitwear includes some stronger shades such as enamel red, dark green and salmon pink.
Click here to read the index of articles for the fall-winter 2011-2012 men's collections