Brioni spring summer 2011 - women's runway show Featured

A fashion design industry hymn to the joyous freedom of light fabrics and vivid colours
by 05 October 2010

When an artist creates a unique work of art that approaches perfection, everyone should have the chance of seeing it. This is why paintings and sculptures are kept in museums open to the public. Brioni has been at the very top of Italian high fashion clothing production for 65 years, and significantly the marque chose the Triennale museum in Milan as the location in which to show its spring summer 2011 collection. The Triennale is the first museum in Italy to have highlighted all forms of Italian design, and the Brioni event was therefore ideally suited to this institution. The interior took the form of a long, brightly lit, white hall, in which everyone's gaze was drawn magnetically towards the runway at the centre, with the Brioni-red panels forming a chromatic backdrop for the models.

In this collection, Alessandro dell'Acqua combines the historic garment-crafting skills that are such an important part of the Rome-based company's heritage, with classic femininity. The result is a group of remarkably harmonious and fluid pieces. Skirts and jackets, even though in some cases generously sized and very long, have lost all traces of rigidity, and follow the curves and movements of their wearers. Women should be able to feel free at all times, whether during leisure time, work or formal occasions. Dell'Acqua uses high-waisted trousers very intelligently; they reach the floor and thus create a tapering form that renders the wearer visually taller without her having to wear high heels.

Dell'Acqua also succeeds in highlighting the woman's wild and primordial aspects even within the style and sophistication of latest urban fashions by means of dramatic and expressive accessories such as African horn and ivory pendants. The garments themselves are very delicate and rest lightly on the body like finest silk. Further sophistication is added by embroidery that harks back to crochet and floral lacework.
Brioni's colour range for next spring ranges from white, black, ivory, eggshell and various shades of cream to brighter colours such as siena, salmon and orange, to gloriously vivid shades of watermelon red. As regards footwear, next spring we will see a lot of open sandals, with or without heels, with straps on the ankles, and other shoes with straps reaching almost up to the knee.

This hybrid collection represents a combination of the discreet formality of women involved in their everyday work, and the joyous freedom of a liberated spirit who values the possibility of comfort and femininity at all times of day and evening.

Other Houses: Settimana della moda - Milan Fashion Week - brings top fashion designers together on catwalks throughout the city