In the Luxos review of runway fashion shows during Milan Fashion Week, Ermanno Scervino's collection was well received by a packed public at Loggia dei Mercanti in Milan, 23 September 2010. The colour is white, but the first impression of apparently icy coolness is offset by warm material contrasts, superb patterns of square pleats meandering across sections of a garment, lacy open-work on the sides of tiny bodice-like dresses with waspish waist and a short bell-skirt reminiscent of Victorian lingerie, areas of transparency contrasting with more full-bodied textile and right through to highly-textured chunky cableknit and honeycomb knitwear.
The overall white is relieved by some pieces in flesh, yellow, pale blue, leather, and the boudoir feel is gloriously contrasted with contemporary asymmetry, one sleeve differing from another, one shoulder exposed and one covered, and even a supremely ironic semi-collar. The cut of the mini-dresses is anything but Victorian, very high, creating a sculptural hour-glass shape that makes the legs long, long, long. Technology comes to the fore in the light jackets, almost evanescent in their milky tones of a very new paper-effect nylon fabric. Tennis-court whites; shorts, and a top that superimposes different textures of lace and knitwear. There is a 1920s feel in some of the clean-honed tops with lacework at the sides, and a 1960s feel in the lacy hot pants with coordinated top. A splendid jacket with open-worked leather is as spectacular from the back as from the front, over a simple, short skirt. Ermanno Scervino's trench is wonderfully textured for a very contemporary feel, brilliantly detailed at the hemline and cuffs, and with rounded lapels that seem to be a more pacifist response in contrast to the military look that featured in many collections last season.
The only hint at anything military consists of the leather armour-like shoulders in a deceptively simple but highly refined top, with vertical pleating at the front below the leather shoulders and collar. Knitwear also features in the accessories, such as the tote-type bags, with a honeycomb texture coordinated with the dress. Shoes are high and wedgy, with an unusual detail at the heel in the form of a high tongue of leather. A fantastic collection that makes reference to various periods of fashion design history while expressing a vibrant and refreshing creativity.
Click here for Luxos coverage of other runway fashion shows -
John Richmond Spring/Summer 2011
Sergio Rossi Spring/Summer 2011
Brunello Cucinelli Spring/Summer 2011