Christopher Bailey's Spring 2011 pre-collection has elements previously seen in Burberry, such as muted tints, touches of military looks, and complex secondary colours, but it presents some very new departures. For both him and her, garments are skinnier and closer hugging, which means an altogether sexier look than in previous collections. For her, puffy dresses with ruches, even semi-transparent flesh-coloured dresses, clinging leggings, high-heeled booties, and thigh-high boots, leopard-print coats and snakeskin bags. Small waists and wide belts recall a bit of old Hollywood glamour, and the elasticated knitwear adds a hard urban edge to the collection. Details include disc-shaped metal studs, sealed hems, contrast lining, giant Velcro fasteners, and side panels in jersey. Though a resort collection, the clothes were dominated by a lovely use of darker colours of honey, olive green, flesh, grey stone, sandstone, and dark brown.
For him, it is the season of jackets: close-fitting trench coats with short sleeves, military motorbike jackets, and extra-large naval jackets. The overall men’s look is still largely military inspired and features military shirts with breast pockets, narrow military ribbing, and short, close fitting trousers. Bailey has again successfully transformed cotton knitwear into outerwear and made excellent use of seamless, soft-cut cashmere, and unlined tailored garments. The menswear collection features detailing similar to the women’s collection, with military studs, sealed hems, zip detailing on pockets, giant Velcro fastenings, and lateral panels in jersey featuring prominently. Again, dark colors came into play, with browns leading the way, followed by bronzed amber, steel-grey, indigo, cobalt and chambray.
The end result of this refined collection is an evolved military look injected with a touch of vintage, and a sophisticated bit of edge.
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