Gieves & Hawkes, epitome of traditional tailoring Featured

In a world of easy solutions, this Savile Row house sets the benchmark for service and quality.
by 29 June 2009

Being well-dressed is a subjective thing, but at Gieves & Hawkes, it is a living art. Its headquarter and international flagship store, No 1 Savile Row, is the spiritual home of the welldressed man. The company has held warrants for 200 years ever since their inception in 1809. The three current Royal Warrants are Gieves & Hawkes’ symbols of excellence, marques of quality and outstanding service. However, it is not about an “industry”. Every garment is created according to time-honoured tradition, pride and precision. The exhaustive process produces a piece of tailoring art, and its ultimate expression is the bespoke suit.

Birth Of An Extraordinary Suit
Bespoke is the epitome of tailoring, indulging in every request and desire. The consultation is what makes it unique, because bespoke customers builds a close relationship with the Gieves & Hawkes consultation team by communicating every details of their dream suit. At No 1 Savile Row, this dream comes true one stitch at a time. Here, “no” does not exist.

A bespoke suit takes 50 to 60 hours to complete. Depending on the customer’s availability for fittings, the entire production time is 6 to 10 weeks. All patterns and customer records will be kept for further orders.

With high quality and perfect fit, a bespoke suit lasts much longer than a ready-to-wear. Also, it can be freshened throughout its lifetime: brushing, re-pressing, running repairs, all complimentary at Savile Row.

Standards Of A Giant
The Savile Row Association has established strict guidelines of what constitutes a bespoke service, making the Savile Row standard analagous to haute couture for men. Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne invited the association to stage an exhibition and party to close Haute Couture Week in Paris back in July 2007 – a great recognition of The Savile Row Association.

It is important to know that many companies deliver “bespoke” suits that are not up to Savile Row standards. Customers who desire true bespoke services should turn to companies that are members of the Savile Row Association, because they have all met its rigorous criteria.

The creation of a bespoke suit is first-class and labour-intensive. The Savile Row team is dedicated to upholding the two-centuryold tradition in all its glory. At No 1 Savile Row, customers also have the choice of Personal Tailoring Service. It is the bridge between bespoke and ready-to-wear.

It’s Personal
Available at all Gieves & Hawkes stores, Personal Tailoring Service costs just a bit more than a ready-made garment, and it enables customers to personalise their garment – be it a jacket, blazer, trousers, waistcoat or dinner jacket. Customers can choose from up to 2000 fabrics, and opt for pre-established style options. A sales consultant takes a full set of measurements in relation to the Gieves & Hawkes standard blocks. Patterns are adjusted on computer, and cloth is cut by machine. The components of the garment are assembled, and the garment is then hand-finished, pressed and checked for quality. In just six weeks, Personal Tailoring Service delivers the clothing with highly individual features and a perfect fit.

The well-dressed man certainly has different requirements at various times and occasions. At Gieves & Hawkes, you will find ready-to-wear, personal tailoring and bespoke service for your changing and diverse dressing needs. Rest assured that Gieves & Hawkes provides only the highest standard with quality, fit and knowledgeable service – suitable for the king inside every gentleman.

Dreamweavers
A cutter with at least 10 years and often more than 30 years of experience takes measures from the customer. An individual paper pattern is draughted and cut by the cutter. The customer can choose from almost 10,000 choices of fabrics. The cloth is also cut by hand according to the pattern, and the customer can choose any style that he likes.

Next, cut fabrics are passed onto the tailor, who will create the first baste. It is a loosely-stitched garment with no pockets, buttons, or other details. The first baste is fitted on the customer. It will be ripped down and rebuilt for maximum comfort and true fit.

At this point, an advanced baste is created with details and is ready for a second fitting. Afterwards, the garment is usually finished fully before the third and final fitting. All finishing is done by hand, and the final pressing is completed by a separate finisher who specialises in pressing.

Gieves & Hawkes
No 1 Savile Row
Tel. +44 20 7434 2001
 

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