Lorenz Baumer, magician of Place Vendôme
A meeting with the flamboyant designer, master of bespoke jewellery.By Yanita Kostova
You define yourself as a poet, a gardener and an architect. In what way do these three words sum up your world?
The poet offers jewels with explicit or implicit messages, like the “After the rain come the good times” ring with its Tahitian pearl centre, set in raindrop-like diamonds. The gardener sews and cultivates. You also find my passion for nature and for indulgence in my creations, like in the leek brooch or in the fish ring fighting with its blue sapphire. The architect traces, designs, imagines and shapes what he has put on paper, exactly like I do but on a larger scale. I love geometry and I try to recreate these shapes in my jewellery.
Sea urchins, sweets, seahorses - your evocatively named creations are sumptuous, would you say they are also extravagant?
Why make what everyone or almost everyone has already made? When one speaks of uniqueness, one is allowed to speak of extravagance. And I thank you for asking this question, because it is proof that my pieces generates a reaction, which I seek to do.
What inspires the creation of such a piece of jewellery?
A visit to a museum, discovering a place, why not an animal that I like or that I hate, reading a book. From there comes a name, a preliminary idea, then the design which materializes the initial concept and finally the manufacturing by the very best artisans.
You make jewellery on demand, is it always a passionate challenge?
Yes and I’d even go as far as saying that it’s what makes me determined to always go that bit further. The passion that leads me is beautiful and creation is great, and this is in part possible thanks to these specific requests.
La Place Vendôme is a mythical place for jewellery. Was it a natural move for you to settle there?
It’s a source of competitiveness, of excelling. Also naturally I found there the necessary power for the success of a creation. My salons are in the image of my creations, never seen before, rare, they invite you into a change of scenery, into a much needed escape, while still being in the heart of Paris.
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