Fendi at the spring-summer 2012 Milan fashion shows
Karl Lagerfeld's daring and sensual collection comprises a range of stock motifs revisitedby Henry Neuteboom
Vertically-striped day-dresses with chopped shoulders. Prim governess dresses in plain colour with contrasting colour. Horizontally-striped sailorgirl tops. High-waistline skirts and a simple blouse, with short light leather jacket. A white blouse with a demure tie. White skirts with widely-spaced multicolour polka dots. These apparently discreet garments contrast with more typically Lagerfeld touches, with Baroquely-curving blouse front décor, long fur waistcoat in bottle green varying towards deep blue, and chunky knitwear tops. All this variation is given a degree of unity by the sunglasses, vast expanses of brightly-coloured plastic polarizing the face below voluminously-coiffeured hair. The polka-dot motif recurs on bags, and it matches textures on garments, and the large circular buttons that feature on blouses below the neckline.
A dramatically colourful outfit combines mustard yellow, violet, light blue, dark ochre and red, with minimal shoes combining red and blue straps. It sounds impossible, but the overall effect is one of harmony, colour-blocking at its very best. Textiles of course include leather and fur, as it's a Fendi show, but there are also many delightful complex fabrics in which texture combines with pattern (we loved the jigsaw like variants) for extra complexity. Quotations possibly include a tongue-in-cheek reference to Bottega Veneta and their strips of fabric, in a day-dress made of vertical strips. Sensual transparency is combined with apertures in varying locations of sheer black evening dresses. It's Milan: enjoy life, enjoy the colour!
Vintage Clothing Trends for Spring/Summer 2012
See the Milan spring-summer 2012 women's fashion collections schedule with links to reports
See our full report of London Fashion Week here