Ermenegildo Zegna at the fall/winter 2011-2012 men's fashion shows in Milan
Greys and blacks accompanied by brighter colour and some interesting accessoriesby Davide Strusani
Ermenegildo Zegna celebrates a century of fashion by moving into the future. The brand, fresh from its centenary celebrations in 2010, created a show that combined fashion, technology and cinema to produce a multisensorial experience. The runway show was devised in cooperation with James Lima, visual designer for Avatar, and it became a LIVE-D film set in which the models were seen first on the screen and then "materialized" on the runway. This visual device was striking and exciting, making the event a unique occasion.
Zegna used this technology to demonstrate the overall objective and inspiration right from the start. The East, a distant land of constant fascination, is becoming ever-closer as it gains ground on the global playing field. The show was a celebration of China, of all who live and work there, and everyone who is involved in communications with the country, whether for work, passion, family or love.
The garments were reminiscent of 1940s Shanghai, with combinations and ornamentation based on local Chinese art and Parisian Art Nouveau. Colours were predominantly anthracite grey and moving through to black, tea, bamboo green, and mahogany in various shades from red to brown. 3-button jackets with straight, slightly padded shoulder, stovepipe trousers with high turn-ups, and long, generous overcoats.
The textiles for next winter range from the classic tweed effect or large-scale Prince of Wales; two-colour cashmere, and a new interpretation of embossed and interwoven Gashco made both in cotton and wool. For outerwear, waterproofed cotton, leather and nap shearling, and the classic hand-worked cashmere.
Accessories include the latest technology, and Zegna, like other brands, presented their version of the iPad portfolio with shoulder strap. A new belt concept with many pockets was shown, an accessory ideal for containing all sorts of items. Other accessories were fur hats, period-style evening glasses, large bags in printed leather, and leather ankle boots with a slightly raised toe.
China may seem a distant land, but Zegna brilliantly evokes the resemblance with Italian culture in terms of its millennial history and culture, demonstrated in part by its own textiles tradition and a style that has always possessed a degree of mystery and fascination.
Click here to read the index of articles for the fall-winter 2011-2012 men's collections
Click here to see a list of Ermenegildo Zegna boutiques worldwide